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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/29/2021 in all areas

  1. Hi all, Here is my little drift pig, needs some work. This forum seems like a ghost town, the posts are few and far between. Is everyone posting on FB these days, or is there another forum I'm not aware of? Cheers, T.
    2 points
  2. Hi guys, As mentioned in introduction thread, my name is Alex and I am planning to do few mods to my 98 R34 GTT. Car is currently dead stock, only and 3” catback exhaust installed. I have very little experience with cars or engines, so if I will manage to do it, anyone can. There is also a chance that I will fail miserably and run away crying. Ive rented shed for 2 months and currently cleaning it after work. Ordered few basic things today, engine crane and stand, proper socket set, work lights as my shed has none and some miscellaneous items. Will be buying rest when they are needed. Really hope I will have enough light to do some work on weekdays. Otherwise, its Saturdays and Sundays if my wife permits. So overall plan is to take engine out next weekend, strip it and drop to machine shop. Ive booked with Thornleigh Cylinder Heads. Did research on SAU and have not found anything bad about them. However, most posts are really outdated, hopefully nothing changed. Let me know if you know otherwise. Over the phone, it felt like they really know what they are doing and gave me confidence when we were discussing works to be done. So, when engine is out I am planning to clean up engine bay. Tidy up wiring harness and rewrap it. Was considering cleaning/degreasing and spray painting it. My car is black and was resprayed 2 years ago with closed doors. So engine bay is showing its age. Please let me know if anyone did it and how it looked. Then I am planning to sort my suspension, already got Tein flex coilovers and will probably buy a set of adjustable arms with rubber bushes, haven’t decided on brand yet. Also, will replace stock rotors and paint brake callipers. Hopefully by that time my engine will be back and ready for assembly. When its back in the car I will get new clutch installed, already have nismo sports clutch with new fly wheel. Will get new intercooler, injectors, fuel pump and all usual mods. Will check with gcg on turbo options and act depending on leftover budget. If not much left, will just go with hypergear 45sat. Also, exhaust needs to be replaced, it is 3” cat back at the moment. Turbo will be low mounter with wastegate welded onto stock manifold. My overall budget is around 20-23k excluding coilovers and clutch as its already purchased and will need approximately 3-4k for ecu and tune. Obviously, trying to get the most value parts without any sacrifices. So money and time are working against me. Ive decided to buy parts for next stage while starting previous, that should give them 1-2weeks to arrive. However, it appears that general stock for some items in the country is low and I might be screwed over. I can prolong my 2 months rent, but really dont want to. So, not to bombard you with information and questions ahead of time lets start with step 1. Engine Bottom engine gaskets - 300 Engine rebuild kit-2700 Cp pistons/spool h rods/ main and rod bearings/cometic gasket Arp head studs - 320 Arp rod bolts 400 There is another kit which might be a better value, it includes all of the above and N1 oil pump/water pump/timing belt priced at 4900 Head Need help as Valve train is complete mystery to me. I know what that is and how it works, just dont know components all that well. Option 1. Brand new Ferrea set excluding lifters will be around 3500 from NZ. So, add gst and import tax Option 2. Oem spring set is around 500. Option 3. Supertech set, not sure if they have complete set for NEO head, need to call. But same $3500 based on quick website check. Please let me know what parts in the head are prone to failure and should be swapped. I might potentially go for aftermarket cams as well. Which I assume only changes spring selection. Any suggestions on parts or good suppliers are welcomed. I do feel like replacing every single moving part in the engine with high end aftermarket part is an overkill, but dont know where the balance is. Definitely dont want to build engine and open it again next year, I would rather be over cautious My list of brands is generally guided by SAU members and their experience. So, general logic is if everyone goes for CP pistons, so should I πŸ˜” Did my best not to write a poem, sorry if it is too long. Could have been 3 times longer if I was not holding myself. I have 500000 questions. Trying to search and read as much as I can prior to asking sorry for any spelling and grammar mistakes πŸ₯Έ
    1 point
  3. In further updates for the 110, I received a big delivery which I'm very excited about. Plan is still to stay auto because daily. Garrett G30-770 .83 (T3) 6 Boost manifold Turbosmart 50mm gate
    1 point
  4. Redline's light/heavy weight are "no turning back" options. Once you start using either one it will begin to eat into the synchros. Try their MTL first to see if if the crunch improves for you, if not go for the light/heavy weight.
    1 point
  5. Bearings were in good condition, both sides of main and rod. Lower parts are pretty much same as top, was actually surprised to see how thick they are. Pistons were burnt, but evenly burnt and no damage or deformation. Not sure if low compression came from block, might have been head. Also, comp test results were suspicious 1 - 150; 2-145; 3-140; 4-130; 5-120; 6-110. what are the chances that reputable shop did simple test wrong?
    1 point
  6. redline lightweight is good for improving shifting in boxes which crunch on fast(er) shifts due to worn synchros. I would steer clear of it in new or rebuilt boxes with good synchros as it is not recommended for synchro boxes by the manufacturer
    1 point
  7. Hi guys, so finally engine is pulled apart and ready to go to machine shop tomorrow. Did few things in wrong order, which took few extra hours. Main problem was that I took all belts off and started to undo pulley bolts, when I should have loosened them first and then take belts off. That would save heaps of time. Inspected every single part and so far, everything looks ok. Leaking turbo was the only thing I could spot. Honestly, I was hoping to see damage to pistons or rings just to prove that engine rebuild was imminent. However, everything was sealed well and all rings are in ok condition. Not really sure how 20 year old good and bad piston should look like. Anyway, there is no going back at this stage πŸ˜€. Next week I will install new coilovers and start cleaning everything that came off engine. Ordered some spring clamps, radiator hose set, various vacuum hoses and fabric tape to rewrap wiring. Hopefully, i will know what parts and sizes to order for my engine and they will know exactly how much money left for all the bolt ons.
    1 point
  8. Well I said f**k it and picked my bottom lip up and went for a rip with my buddy today. He has a spicy 900hp 2j check the video out below. He’s on low boost on pump with meth here. IMG_2746.MOV
    1 point
  9. Finally engine is out, no major dramas. Wont recommend doing all of these alone, gearbox was really dodgy. So, i am planning to take break tomorrow and only buy few supplies.
    1 point
  10. Quick update, gearbox is finally on the floor and looks like engine only have few last connectors attached on the bottom, which I am planning to undo when engine is lifted a bit higher. Dont think there is anything else left to remove before engine comes out. So, hoping to get it out on Friday and spend weekend stripping it. Last bolt on top of gearbox was a real pain, took me 2-2.5 hours to get to it.
    1 point
  11. Thanks guys, not sure why I have not checked other suppliers, Golebys are few hundreds cheaper as well 😊. I am hoping to keep low mount stock manifold and not sure if its possible to get t3 to V band adapter and still fit g30 in or do I need to cut T3 and weld v band. If i am welding then might go with external gate as well. I was after g30-770, it looks like g25-660 is good for around 300rwkw if I read compression maps correctly. I was hoping to get closer to 350-400rwkw. Ive checked sizes of g30 and gtx3076, they are pretty much identical. So hope g30 with adaptor will fit. Do you think $1000-1200 will be enough to modify manifold and make v band dump pipe? Have not been to any metal fabricators, so no idea how they price things. @dose at the moment I am considering new cams, will let you know as soon as Engine package is finalised. P.s looks like i will have to stay with stock wheels for few months if Im going G turbo 😞.
    1 point
  12. Thank you, looked more into oil sump and all I could find were baffles for Rb26 which I assume are different. For 25 only found complete baffled sumps. Went back to my shed for few hours yesterday to disconnect fuel lines and remaining wiring from engine. Took driveshaft out and starter, so last thing to do is transmission, loosen all bit 2 top bolts, will need to get 14mm spanner and try to get there somehow. Hopefully engine will be out on Saturday morning and stripped during weekend. So, I will drop to machine shop on following Monday. Also, had to change few things due to budget limits. I had to choose plazmaman intercooler/plenum or suspension (controll arms/sway bars and rotors) both around 3k. Will most likely go with new plenum and intercooler. Suspension is still ok no issues, definitely want to remove Hicas. Spoke to GCG g25 and g30 series turbos are not due till at least August. So, I will go with hypergear or garret gtx3076 bolt on, plazmaman intercooler, 1000cc injectors to stock rail, walbro 460 and Link ecu mainly because I want to get rid of afm and get straight 3-4” intake pipe. Also, instead of separate gauges I was thinking about haltech ic7 dash screen. Will see when engine is assessed of what needs to be done, then check remaining budget
    1 point
  13. I assume the lights/sirens are for those last, desperate passing manoeuvres LOL. If you don't mind I'll pass this on to others I know that might be interested but don't come here. If there's any interest I'll let you know with contact numbers. Suitable trailer is probably going to be the sticking point.
    1 point
  14. 1 point
  15. @Chris Rogers is the alarm guy, Did mine 12 years ago never had any problems. As MLR has stated a multi layer approach is the best way still the best system ever
    1 point
  16. 11) Bee*R B5 R18 F : 9.5JJ +38 (+1cm) (245/45/18) R : 9.5JJ +25 (+1cm) (245/45/18) 12) Bee*R B5 R18 For Burnout F : 9.5JJ +25 (235/40/18) R : 9.5JJ +25 (235/40/18) 13) Rays Nismo Z34 R19 F : 9.5JJ +40 (235/35/19) R : 10.5JJ +23 (245/35/19) 14) Napre Japan Mahdi Caesar FD-2 R19 F : 10JJ +7 (235/35/19) R : 11JJ +2 (245/35/19) 15) Yokohama Advan AVS T7 R19 F : 9JJ +22 (+1cm) (235/35/19) R : 10JJ +25 (+1cm) (245/35/19) 16) Bee"R B5+Gullflame Gravity GP Sports R18 F : 9.5JJ +25 (+1cm) (245/45/18) R : 9.5JJ +15 (+1cm) (245/45/18) 17) Rays Nissan R19 F : 8JJ +30 (+1cm) (245/40/19) R : 8.5JJ +33 (+1cm) (245/40/19) and full list mu wheels xD B.I.M Zeit SS Prodrive GC-05A SSR Type C Black Racing PRO N1 Weds SA70 Advan RS Bee*R B5 CST Hyper Zero-1 Rays VR Progressive TE Rays VR TE37 Rays VR CE28 Advan AVS Model T7 Rays VR Nismo Z34 Napre Japan Mahdi Caesar FD-2 Gp Sports Gullflame Gravity Work Cr Kiwami Rays Nissan
    1 point
  17. The series II have steel pedals( on gtrs , i don't know about gtts )and clear front and side blinkers . Gtrs have gone back to plastic radiator tanks in the series II ( alloy in S one ) , different oil cap on series II and darker rear glass .
    1 point
  18. just an update, guessing my order was not at the painter and ready to be shipped as my order was just cancelled... I did receive a full refund (thankfully). extremely disappointed, coming up to a 6 month wait + the tease of it almost being ready and now nothing and also now have no way to fit the ic7.
    0 points
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