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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/03/2021 in all areas

  1. If you think it's bad on an RWD car try an AWD one. I'm barely at the point where I can undo the intake plenum bolts and try to slide it off.
    1 point
  2. Party essentials Finished repinning/relocating my oil pressure, oil temp, fuel pressure, power steering input and freeing up AVI 2,3,4 & 5 for DBW. Motor selaed up too 🥰
    1 point
  3. Engine is at the machine shop being measured for the custom pistons
    1 point
  4. Oh good point completely forgot about that issue. I used to run around 8.5° On an old setup maybe 6 years ago with poly bushes and sure enough they died. Replaced them with spherical upper arms which eventually flogged out and then I went back to a poly arm around the same time I had the cracked alloy caster arm. Personally trying to avoid GK tech arms
    1 point
  5. You can't run large caster for other reasons (beyond your obvious problems from having the wheel too far forward in the well and the steering binding). The bushes in the upper arms cannot tolerate the twisting load that high caster causes, unless you have an arm that will pivot in the centre. The only example of which that I trust is the GKTech one. I can't see what arms you have, but I can see in one photo the bolt end that indicates stock arms with Whiteline adjustable bushes. If that's what you have, even the 6.5° you were running will trash the bushes tut de suite. The only other available fix is to change the locations of the holes in the body side bracket for the FUCAs to change (reduce) the "twist angle". There's a thread on here and the post I linked shows what needs doing to achieve the mod.
    1 point
  6. A shortcoming of my car was the turn in characteristics, having significant understeer on turn in and speaking to a few people I trust including Stewy we can to the conclusion that a lack of caster wasn't doing me any favours. The old arms were likely more suited to an S14/R33 not R32/S13 as at the max adjustment they only produced ~6.5' of caster. A pair of Acostal HC caster arms were purchased. way overkill clearance wise for me. Especially as i have no plans to remove the front swaybar. But the quality bearings along with steel construction made them the best choice. Long time readers may recall a crash caused by a snapping alloy arm... The adjustment allowed for more caster than my bumper allowed Took it in an got a fresh alignment with the caster dialed back to a reasonable level. I aimed at something suitable for drift but while still being streetable. I ended up with the below alignment. Front: Camber: -3° each side Caster: 7.8° each side Toe: 2mm out each side. 4mm total out Rear: Camber: -1.75° each side Toe: 0.8mm in each side. 1.6mm total in I am also trying out a set of the Kenda KR20A soft tyres in 255/40R17 all round for the street wheels courtesy of Sleeka Spares.
    1 point
  7. I have a 3QT. It depends on how MUCH oil pressure you are losing, and how much oil the accusump has in it. By this I don't mean only if its a 1/2/3QT. If you want the Accusump to deliver oil pressure quickly it means setting it up so more of the canister's internal area is taken up by air, not oil. They refer to this as the "pre charge PSI" but in reality it's taking up more space. All the people refer to it as extra sump CAPACITY and how it operates is pretty bang on in regards to that aspect. However.... You can never have too much protection from oil starvation. If you have ECU failsafes on oil pressure this helps even more, you can tie the accsump in with sensors to know when they kick in, etc, so you will never 'run out'.
    1 point
  8. The fact that it is called out as the "Main Power Cable" should be pretty telling.
    1 point
  9. Of corse it is, it’s essential for mental health. I just got my first chip installed so hopefully I can do more soon 😂
    1 point
  10. no mate, not staging pumps. i have an under car surge tank and 2 044's fed by the in tank 460 walbro. Wiring is the usual direct feed independent relay rewire mod thats been done for donkeys years on the skyline. at 13.6v the walbro will outflow the 044s as it is unloaded(not under pressure) Its probably one of the easiest fuel systems ive ever done and up there with a fairly cheap one too. It will be getting changed soon as i will be going to a mechanical pump setup next year in the car. Either that or i blow a heap of money on a DC car as im getting the itch for speed again, bad.
    1 point
  11. went out for a drive to test it out. Proper alignment to be done but felt tighter.
    1 point
  12. After a go over the car we noticed the tail shaft centre bearing was beyond flogged. a new replacement was sourced. For people searching in the future part number NP-30-6250 was a direct replacement for R32 RWD centre bearing from, hardy spicer. I was looking to go genuine but this was available in a matter of days not months. Jackup the car nice and high at the back leaving front on the ground in order to keep the gearbox oil inside and not in my armpit (ask me how i know). Placed on stands before getting under the car old bearing off (27mm socket, 14mm spanner, 17mm socket) mark the alignment of the shaft first so it goes back together balanced new one on Also put some new Rack Ends in Part number RE-4760 $28.10 each
    1 point
  13. haha while there are some crap places out there. There are also some real gem shops that have been around for years
    1 point
  14. Damn straight...well spotted Iron Mike. OP when you get a sale you action it quickly for them. ...unless yr a sht knt . You posted him 'something' 6 MONTHS after he transferred $$ to you?
    1 point
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