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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/03/2020 in Posts

  1. 6 points
    In car footage, Race Chrono says 1m11.7s but we all Natsoft is more accurate 1m11.5s Rundown: 255/40/18 Nankang AR-1 MCA X-R 10/7 kg/mm 24mm front ARB on Medium 24mm rear ARB on Soft Full trim, AC, etc. Shit Karnt of Driver
  2. 6 points
    People love dyno sheets, dyno sheet now included. Some data too Replay View
  3. 6 points
    Thank you to Alex and the team at Birrong Automotive for letting me use their workshop and dyno. 2bar boost just because why not, 19 degrees of timing. There's more in it, however the intake temps are kissing mid 40s with the China bing bong core. I did order a Plazmaman Pro Series but didn't come in time. I'll grab the logs and dyno sheet off my laptop later.
  4. 5 points
    It's been a long time since I have been active on this forum. I've missed it. In the current age where 'facebook groups' are the new 'forums' I can't help but long for the sweet embrace of the more mature car audience.. ahhh. Feels good. Introduction Who am I? I was born in the year 1990 on a cargo ship marooned off the coast of Venezuela. If the stories are true then my family has been on the run for almost three decades. At the tender age of eighteen I joined the military and endured a life of servitude at the hand of the dominion republic of Congo. What little they provided in financial support I decided to spend on automotive vehicles. I've been fortunate enough to own a rather enviable (in my opinion) selection of imports over the past thirteen years. Noteworthy mentions include, 2 x R32 GTR's 2 x R32 GTST's 3 x Nissan 180SX Mazda RX7 FD3S Type RS 2 x Toyota Corolla KE70 Honda S2000 BMW E46 M3 In among that list are a couple of attempts at owning a 'normal' car but these vehicles didn't stay in my ownership for long. On average I seem to switch cars every 12-14 months.. a habit that I hope to break over the following decades. As far as modifications go I've never gone 'all out' on any car. I've never really even done proper power mods like an upgraded turbo or injectors. I seem to mostly play around with suspension setup as I believe it to be a more cost effective method of improving the amount of enjoyment that I can extract from a vehicle. I don't plan to go all out on this car either by the way. I'm a twisty mountain road kind of guy, not a quarter mile kind of guy. I do enjoy a dabble in rear wheel drive related shenanigans however but I wouldn't call myself a drifter. Still here hey? Well that's a surprise. My Betrayal I bet you're wondering what the hell this 'betrayal' nonsense is all about.. Well.. I was a skyline guy. RB the world (provided you've got a Nitto oil pump, fitted oil restrictors and added an oil drain from the rear of the head back to the sump) and all that jazz. Instead of buying a Toyota Supra MK4 as my second car I decided to get an R32 GTR in gunmetal grey. What a colour hey? Then I joined this forum and the rest is history. If you check the list above you will find that I've never owned a Supra and I'm alright with that. I enjoyed my GTR but at the height of the drifting boom, I, like so many others succumbed to the smell of rubber burning and the thrill of controlling a slide. This saw the end of my first GTR - sold to fund (let's be honest, make room for) the purchase of something rear wheel drive so that I could 'give it a go'.. I never really did try it though (not for years anyway) I bought a 32 GTS-t to combine my love of skylines with my (still) desire to slide and look cool (drifting). Then realised that if I put it into a wall I would loose a lot of money. So I gave up on that idea and bought a car for the mountain roads near where I used to live in Sydney. A 2001 Mazda FD3S RX7. That was fun and all but I still wanted to try this drifting thing. A few cars later and I eventually bought my first good 180SX (third time's the charm hey?) It was a well sorted car, SR20DET t28bb - 5 spd manual on R33 GTR wheels. The body was rough but it was mechanically solid. I didn't realise it at the time but after only owning cars in 'good' condition it was such a relief to own something that I didn't really care about. I was able to park it next to other cars at the grocery store because I genuinely wouldn't notice another car door ding in the car. Living in Sydney this was the perfect 'type' of car for me. The suspension work had been done, coilovers and adjustable arms throughout. After I realised that the differential was on it's way out I paid a mate to weld the differential so that it was locked. Not my brightest move but oh my goodness.. that single modification not only ruined the car but made it the best (in my opinion) vehicle I've owned. I couldn't believe how much fun I was having. I know it sounds cliche, but I was probably 24 years old, young, dumb and full of... great ideas. It really sold me on S chassis. It felt light and nimble in a way that my skylines never did. Turn in was impressive (even with the welded diff) and it was so predictable when the rear end did eventually step out. I managed to do a few skids at a local track day at my workplace. I was taking my friends and colleagues for happy laps and I felt like some sort of local hero.. it was strange! People I didn't even know where laughing and screaming next to me (I wasn't a very good driver.. ok?) yet they all left having experienced a type of Motorsport that most will never get a chance to. I don't think I've ever smiled so much in a single day. I destroyed 6 pairs of tyres and didn't encounter a single problem. So yeah I'm a Silvia guy now.. not really proud of it but here we are. I used to be that guy who didn't like SR20's because they sounded like a tractor.. well now I quite like my tractor. I kept the 180SX for two years. It slowly wore me down as I drove it to work everyday.. with the clunking welded diff and stiff ride.. not to mention the interior road noise (old man warning). It was at the height of the drifting hiatus in the Sydney region. You couldn't drift anywhere.. Eastern Creek had gone all 'pro' circuit spec and Wakefield banned drifting due to noise complaints (sounds familiar) and as such eventually I decided that I wasn't going to be a drifter after all. Work was also moving me to Townsville and there's no race circuit there.. It was time to grow up. I bought an E46 M3. An attempt at some more creature comforts with all the pazzaz of the legendary german 'hero' .. Long story short - it wasn't for me. Vague steering feel, poor shift feel (6 spd manual) and a constant fear of the rear subframe departing the vehicle soured the otherwise fantastic experience. I kept trying to fall in love with it but I just couldn't. Maybe I should have welded the diff? After turning down the chance to purchase another R32 GTS-t.. I was on the hunt for a Nissan S15. I figured that maybe since it was a bit newer and more modern that it would appeal to my ageing mind whilst still retaining everything I loved about my 180SX. Then as fate would have it.. To be continued...
  5. 5 points
    Sure did, however it did trip the engine protection a few times around big g corners on power (back straight of Wakefield). Oil pressure dropped under 2bar a few times around big corners on boost. As @Dale FZ1 pointed out big power, big boost = elevated crank case pressure. I did notice each time it cut the car would spew considerable amounts of oil into the catch. It seems the oil cannot be evacuated back into the sump due to the positive pressure. On main straights, no issues - this means having a head drain won't really solve my problem (also clocked 192km/h+ a few times, it moves). So yeah, motor out 😅 to weld on a sump fitting and connect it up to my catch can also gives me a chance to correct my shitty job at sealing the sump on the motor as it was weeping haha. Managed a slower time of 1m11.5s due to being rusty, different tyre setup and too much power LOL.
  6. 4 points
    G'day, Always lurked SAU but never made an account. I am originally from Launceston Tasmania but live in Townsville for work. I really dislike the way that everything has gone to facebook groups as a replacement for forums (RIP CalaisTurbo.com) so I thought I might try to be active even if futile. Previous list of cars I have owned 1991 Camry Sedan (Stolen and burnt out) 1999 MX5 NB8A (sitting in Tassie waiting for a turbo build) 1987 R31 Skyline Ti Turbo (Sold) 1993 MX5 NA6 (Sold) 2005 Ford Falcon BA SR (Sold) 2008 VE SSV Ute (My daily in Townsville) 199x EK Civic Sedan (Sold) 1987 R31 Skyline Ti Turbo (bought it back) I recently bought my R31 Skyline Ti that's turboed making around 300whp. It has been in Tassie for a while and has had a lot of owners and history. I had sold it as I lived in Victoria at the time and didn't have the time to fix the sloppy RB20 box in it along with various other small things. It came up for sale for close to what I sold it for with nearly everything fixed up. I am hoping someone on here knows the original owner(s) as having some photos/info of it would be really cool. My plans with it is to replace the 3582 with a 3076, plumb up the screamer, make it more streetable and less of a defect magnet (take out the extended LCA's, plumb up the screamer pipe, get a radio and heater in it). Because of covid I won't be able to drive it for a while but a good friend of mine is working on it down in tassie for me so any recommendations for parts/mods for it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for reading this and I look forward to participating in SAU!
  7. 4 points
    Hey all! so this story goes back a few years! At a bucks party me and a 7 other friends who all owned Toyota 86’s at the time decided to buy a 1998 ST04 Toyota Celica for the 24h lemons racing. Best drunk decision ever. We bought the car next day and started the journey. our first race was at Wakefield and we finished the race! We learnt a lot and due to poor planning only had shitty brake pads, so we learnt how to do brake changes in 7 minutes while we did driver swaps. Was an awesome race and we finished 14th (lost a bit of time due to brakes) our next event was in Winton. Again we finished we had very minimal issues, but we developed a shifting issue and lost most gears. We finished with only 3rd gear. Turns out our shifter cables failed. our third event was at Winton and this time we had bearing and driveshaft failures. We ended up retiring at the start of the second day. our last event in this car was back at old faithful Wakefield park. We had driveshaft nut issues, stupid new driveshaft nuts were weak as, and just stripped and let go. We called around and managed to get some off a wrecker, we also needed to clean up the threads as they got stripped. But we fixed that, and a few other stupid small issues, including a loose seat, a wheel that overheated so bad it made the brake rotor holes oval. Anyway we finished the race and decided we wanted a faster car Which leads me to late last year. We picked up a series 2, 2000 N15 Pulsar SSS. 180,000kms and it is in terrible condition. Perfect for lemons. to date we havent done much, we have stripped the interior, removed the sound deadening and bought a lot of parts. Today we drained and removed the radiator and drained and removed the gearbox. We will be pulling the engine out next time we get together and here is my question. if you were us, and you were pulling the engine out, what preventative maintenance or upgrades would you do for a car that will be doing cheap endurance racing? So far we have the following planned: upgraded thick all aluminium radiator oil cooler and relocation new engine mounts Ceramic spring Clutch new rear main seal new rocker cover gasket new water pump pads, rotors, braided lines springs and shocks 15inch rims and tyres wheel bearings normal stuff like harness, seat and an AGI cage plus the usual plugs, leads, oils and filters will continue to post updates IMG_2159.MOV
  8. 4 points
    Picked up this blob, actually lighter than the HDi dim sum bok choy cooler. I opted for stealth black with no logo so I can tell people in public it's a black eBay 76mm IC 😂 Also in the odd event where it's parked somewhere out of my view it doesn't attract any attention because the entire car looks like a clapped out shit box.
  9. 4 points
    I hate to shoot down your own faux science there, but let me assure you that there is no "laminar flow" in any such environment (automotive intake tract flow). The definition of laminar flow is the regime where the Reynolds Number is below 2000. With very low density and low viscosity fluids (ie, air) this is almost impossible to have unless the diameter is absolutely tiny, or the velocity is very very low. The Re will be many tens of thousands in any typical automotive intake tract, which is very very far into the turbulent flow regime (which starts at around Re=4000). It is turbulent. It is fully turbulent. There is no way to argue that it is not turbulent. What you are actually trying to describe is called "well developed flow". The Re is still way too high for the flow to be laminar, it is indeed fully turbulent. But, as you allude to, immediately after a bend or other flow disturbance you have flow which is disturbed in some way. Biased to the outside of a bend, full of swirl or tumble from some flow disturbance like a side port. But after some distance of totally straight pipe, these disturbances will settle out as the energy in the flow is redistributed through internal friction and inertial effects, the flow will resume a nice "fully developed" velocity profile. Which, in turbulent flow is a velocity profile that is fairly flat across most of the duct tapering off to zero only close to the walls. The velocity profile looks more like a cut off bullet, rather than the actual 22 bullet shaped velocity profile you see in true laminar flow. But here's the stinger. It takes at least 10 diameters of straight pipe for flow to start looking well developed. It really takes at least 20 diameters for it to be getting close to well developed. And aerodynamicists and other engineers working in this area would not consider anything less than about 40 diameters of straight pipe if they wanted an undisturbed flow profile to do work with. (There are ways to cheat this with flow straighteners of various sorts, but we will ignore these as they are not really that practical for automotive applications). The upshot? There's really not any length of straight pipe in the inlet tract of almost any car's engine that would get you anywhere near close to well developed. You'd be lucky to get 5 straight diameters. (You should place any typical flow meter at least 10D downstream from a disturbance and ideally at least 5D upstream from the next disturbance. If you can't get that many Ds either side, you're best bet is to divide the space in the same ratio, sorta 67/33 %ish, unless you are really short of diameters, then you lean towards biasing the available length to the upstream side, and be aware that your meter's accuracy will have compromises). Ultimately though, it does not matter a shit. Because we are not using the flow meter in a car to provide us with an actual total mass flow with output in kg/s. All we are using it for is an input signal to the ECU to measure load, and we tune against that load in an essentially dimensionless way. All we care about is the AFR reported in the exhaust. So it almost doesn't matter where the AFM is (unless it is outside its physical limits, like too hot, too much pressure, etc) - so long as the flow "shape" remains the same as it was tuned against, then it is good. I would still put the AFM in front of the turbo as first preference, because it is cold and clean, which is a big thing for hot wire anemometers. Next preference would be after the cooler, because at least it is "cold". May or may not be clean, as you say about oil sources. But at least it's cooler. And it is absolutely true that automotive AFMs are not intended to operate with really hot air like you will get straight out of a turbo. Neither the temperature sensors in them, the control algorithm of the heated wire, nor the electronics attached are intended to be exposed to ~100°C temps, let alone the >>100°C temps you will see at 20+ psi of boost.
  10. 4 points
    But then you won't get Instagram likes for your #megadon fuel system #1200hpfuelsystem. #300kw car #blessed
  11. 4 points
    Build has entered raging bull mode. TRP have taken charge of the build now and started on the don mega fuel system, within a week it's just all out NASA spec really and not even necessary yet however I'd already forked out the coin (years ago) for plenty of Earls Ultrapro teflon, custom surge tank, custom fuel hat, etc so I went for it. Next up will be to finish the catch can filter, tidy up all the lines, fit oil pressure / 2 x map sensors, then its off to Insight for wiring & flex tune.
  12. 4 points
    Been a little while since i updated this thread. Nothing huge has happened but i'll go ahead anyway. Managed to source some OEM indicators so that i could get rid of the clear ones that had been painted orange. Then gave the coilpack cover a trim as it fouled on the wiring and installed it back on the engine Also spent a bit of time this weekend designing and 3d printing a new dash cluster for the car. the one that was in there was just a piece of ABS sheet. i tried adding a bit of an OEM flare and recess the guages properly into the dash rather than having them proud. ive moved the guages closer to the cluster so that its easier to read them when both hands are on the wheel. Pretty happy with how it turned out. may revise the design a bit when i next get some free time!
  13. 4 points
    Close, a few things happened with Sparesbox and many heated phone calls later I ended up with the original turbo but with a free rear housing Carrot GTX3576R Gen 2 Carrot T3 1.01 divided rear housing Turbosmart Gen V 50mm Sinco T3 twinscroll, single gate manifold (pulses split to the gate seat) Tomei 260/9.15 Cams 80lb Valve Springs & Ti Retainers by Performance Springs Chyna Hybrid 76mm FMIC
  14. 4 points
    With the engine finally out we were able to finally find the damage. Cylinder 2 had decided it needed a room with a view, and threw a rod through the drive side of the block With all hope of fixing and selling the engine to help offset the price of the build it was time to start stripping her down to her bare bones and assessing what was going to be viable to keep refresh and reuse and what was to be written off as a total loss. Decided to start with the suspension tare down because I knew right off the batt most all the suspension was going to be trashed and replaced with adjustable components. Here we have a before of the front suspension, a sad sad stock front end. Can any one else not get over how big the factory springs are on these cars? And here we have a sad before photo of the rear end. Fun fact when I went to pull the rotor off the rear passenger side the whole disc separated from the hat. I had a good laugh and pretended to be xena for about 10 minutes
  15. 4 points
    With the car finally in the garage it was time to really dig in and asses the situation. So I started in on her being as she sat for so many years you can see several squirrels had raised their family's in her, the entire intake tube all the way back to the throttle body was full of acorns. It was frighteningly comical pulling her apart. Almost like a bad cartoon. One disconnecting most everything from the top side up she went on to jack stands where she would spend almost to the day,One year, as I pieced together and refurbished her undercarriage and suspension components. But before the chassis and suspension work, the dead motor needed to go. So with a little help and alot of enginuity (hehehe see what I did there ) out came the motor and transmission On a side note do you know what kind of a poor choice it is to try and pull an engine on the dirt by yourself.... a rather large one.
  16. 4 points
    IMG_0264.MP4
  17. 4 points
    Not entirely that simple. The 33 and 34 GTR is essentially rwd like the 32 until it is told to actuate the transfer. There's only a 1 - 2% of torque transfer under normal conditions if that, as this second failsafe solenoid allows about 30psi to the transfer actuator just to preload it. Under a 50:50 torque split the pressure applied is upwards of 230psi. The whole idea is that having this slight preload allows the torque transfer to be initiated much faster than having no preload like the 32.
  18. 3 points
  19. 3 points
    You are correct, a loosely thrown around interval is 5000km, but that is largely dependant on the operator. Someone who is very skilled at changing gears in an H pattern dog box will cause little to no wear on the dog teeth faces. Same thing with a sequential with correctly setup strain gauge strategies correctly unloading the gears on shift, very little dog wear will occur. On the flip side someone just bashing a dog box around not shifting correctly will wear the flat sides of the dogs very quickly, to the point where they will jump out of gear on the slightest gear unload. This where km on box is not a good gauge for inspection, rather inspection intervals at X amount of hours, or x number events completed. You are also correct in the dog gear replacement. The main shaft gears usually have dog teeth on the side an a separate sliding dog that matches to it. What you have to replace can only be determined on a box teardown, so it is not impossible to predict what you're likely to need. Sometimes with only slight wear on the dog teeth you can get prolong the gear or sliding dog needing replacement by regrinding the dog teeth from being rounded off to square again. This will buy you more time with needing to replace anything, but eventually round again and need to be replaced. The biggest problem is that any of the above requires the box to be removed from the car, disassembled and inspected, possibly repaired, reassembled and reinstalled again - whether you replace anything or not. This is where the main cost in keeping a dog box alive is, not necessarily the cost of any parts that may or may not need to be replaced. When someone chooses to go dog engagement this has to be just accepted as the norm, and is the main reason why a synchro box makes more sense for a dedicated street only car.
  20. 3 points
    To me it's just a white 370 with some red bits? I don't know enough about 370s to pick it from a side shot. No, didn't review his profile card thingo either. But now I know that Rob is a big time baller spending large on Nismo spec stuff. I'll just be over here with my cheapo Silvia being a bum
  21. 3 points
    Yeah. It was dumb. Is that the sort of answer you're looking for, or some confirmation bias?
  22. 3 points
  23. 3 points
  24. 3 points
    You can't. Moving out of California has been declared by the state of California to cause cancer.
  25. 3 points
    This is the final tune with stock cams unless something new come up. Car made a nice and responsive 537rwkws @ 36psi on E85 fuel, making 225rwkws @ 4000RPM, I will be moving into internally gated turbos for the coming weeks and hopefully some of the latest externally gated models can be made into high flows and RB bolt on turbos. R34 GTT Rb25det NEO Stock Cams Nitto Pistons and Rods. 9:1 CPR HyperGear ATR45SS-2 Turbocharger ID 1500cc injectors Twin Walbro 525L fuel pump Adaptronic Plugin ECU Greedy Profect B EBC 600x300x81mm PWR Cooler kit 3inches turbo back exhaust 4inches intake pipe with Pod Split fire coil packs Twin pulse manifold and twin 40mm gate. Car made 537rwkws @ 36psi, E85 fuel. With 225rwkws @ 4000RPM. Cams are maxed https://hypergearturbos.com/images/dynosheets/atr45/atr45ss2537rwkw/power.jpg https://hypergearturbos.com/images/dynosheets/atr45/atr45ss2537rwkw/boost.jpg
  26. 3 points
    The car is at insight now to get kuhnerized! it's the grand daddy s15 this is the result of 8 years of NASA development basically light years of research to develop the ultimate street S15 feels good to be off the drawing board and in the pilots seat soon
  27. 3 points
    Hey guys, I've been reading the forums for years, thought I should sign up.. Turns out I already did in 2012 haha! but yeah this is my first post. A bit about me.. I'm from Traralgon, VIC. I'm an architectural draftsman, but prior to that I was a mechanic. I did 6 years for Penfold Holden, before leaving the industry in 2012. Cars I've owned, in order.. - 1967 Ford Fairlane - 2003 VY s-pac Manual - 1986 VL berlina turbo A8 Auto - EA Ford falcon - run around -1986 VL SL turbo A8 Auto - TR Magna wagon - run around - 1990 VN BT1 5.0L Auto - 1990 VN EXEC 3.8L wagon - run around - 1983 VH SL/E 4.2L Manual - 2011 VE SS 6.0L Wagon Manual 330rwkw - 1985 Ford F100 SWB 5.0L Auto - 2009 FPV F6 Ute 4.0L Auto - 2014 VW Amarok Canyon (current daily) - 1995 R33 GTS-4 S1.5 Manual (current project).. see below. So the GTS-4... When i first got with the Mrs back in 2011 I had the VH, the VE SS and an R6. The SS was daily, the bike was weekend, and the VH was a driveway ornament. cool af little car, but I never touched it. f**k knows why, but I listened to the Mrs and sold he VH, for I think maybe $3k?? (we all make mistakes). Anyways, she said 'sell the VH and for your 30th I'll buy you any car you want'.. Nov 2019 I turned 30 and I hit her up. I found an R33 GTS-4 with a seized motor and rough body real cheap. We got it shipped down to us from Northern NSW and the project begun. Extra points to the Mrs. she also bought me a 2 post hoist to work on the car. The intention is to build a street registered hill climb / time track car. I always wanted a GTR but these days that's a little unrealistic, especially for a track car. The GTS4 with a 26 is close enough for me. I've removed the dead RB25DE, I bought a S3 R33 RB26 from a bloke in QLD. it was low on comp in Cyl 3. but complete. I stripped it down, and inspected the rings. I found the rings on Cyl 3 to have rotated into alignment. I reset the rings, reassembled the engine and comp tested it. 135psi (cold)(+/- 5psi) across all 6. Not going to push big numbers yet, the idea is to get it running and re-address later. but I'm happy with the health of the motor currently for such a task. The 26 has been in and out of the car, working things out. Its about to go back in before the car goes off for wiring. I recently gave the motor a freshen up with VHT wrinkle black intake and piping. and VHT wrinkle blue rockers, timing, coil covers That's basically where I'm at. Cheers, Ross
  28. 3 points
    I booked the tune for July 21. The new ECU is being sent here along with wide band, air temp and 4bar map sensor. I will install it all prior to the tune, so about 4-5 weekends of solid work on my hands. I remade the fuel lines to the rail as I wasn't happy with them and based it off a mates GTR who has comparable power levels. I fitted my hose separators and made up the catch can lines, I'm getting quite fond of 200 series now. The catch can previously sat on the battery tray which is now gone, so made some brackets to mount it. I might remake one of the brackets as the catch can sits on a slant due to the engine bay shape.
  29. 3 points
    Sadly, while these AFMs might (they do) measure the air temp of the air going through them (they have to in order to even work), but they do not report it anywhere. It's only used internally to work out what the current used to heat the wire to target temperature actually means in terms of mass flow. So long as the air temperature does not exceed the capabilities of the temp sensor, etc, as I said in the above post, it will still work post turbo in hot air. But I'd be willing to bet that many such installations are far exceeding what the AFM should be exposed to and are probably actually quite dangerous in terms of tuning, because if things like air temp are being clipped at the max value, the AFM is not measuring properly. That's just like running an AFM up off the top of the 0-5V scale and "tuning" be simply adding more fuel at the top of the table. There's no actual flow measurement. That voltage could be any flow out of a range of possible flows once you go off the top. Same with clipping the max temperature, etc. I must stress though that I don't know what the max temp these things are able to work in is. A normal RTD is good for ~450°C, but if you don't need to go that high you would not ever calibrate its electronics to read that high. You'd use your available resolution more wisely. I'd expect the automotive guys to do that too, but it's a question of what max they'd choose. For their intended application, you'd not need any more than ~100°C, because you'd never expect the ambient air or even engine bay air to be that hot. They might use that, or they might use 150°C. I dunno. But in the absence of knowledge, a little more caution is better than just blindly charging ahead. So I'd be cautious. Carrying on from the discussion of where to put the AFM, as I said above, the best place would be before the turbo, but once things start becoming a little more extreme (like big 4" diameter turbo inlets, lack of room for a nice pipe to place the AFM in, etc) people get cornered into having to consider moving it post turbo. In that case, as I said in previous post and for the reasons of caution I said here, post cooler is the smart place.
  30. 3 points
    So he is back at home in one piece (if you dont count tyre rubber falling off). After 3 months bouncing from shop to shop to shop we have him settled down and asleep now. i didn’t get to show you guys the new diff cover so here it is great bit of kit from greddy holds just under 2.5l of oil so it should make the diffs last a little longer. This time I went for a 4.3 nismo 2way still have the 4.1 nismo 2way there for a spare. Car wasn’t built to do 300kph but more like 250kph on a race track just means that I’m pulling 3300rpm at 100-110kph but for the acceleration that it has gained should lower my 1/4 mile times over running a 3.9. Now to the numbers part that everyone wants. So as you can see low boost well not really low boost but waste gate pressure at 14.5psi the car makes 375wkw and a crap load of torque not like the old low of 398wkw but feels a lot faster off the line and to a speed. High boost tho 467wkw is massive and I haven’t even been tempted to flick the switch yet. Conditions will have to be 110% for me to hot that power as the old one was only 444wkw but this power comes on 500rpm faster with the help of the new exhaust and still goes all the way to redline but does die off a little bit that’s due to the 12cm rear housings on the HX40rs yes a 40 with a 12 on it. It’s a mse turbos custom to suit my cams and exhaust mani and the way I wanted to make power this will be changed at a later date for a 16cm rear to see what it can make on pump. Power at the engine is pretty bloody good to. So Queation can I tell people it’s a 500kw car now? We also go a new style of launch control. We have a button on the steering wheel that when pressed at a given rpm will move the rev limiter to that set rpm. So, if I rev the car up to 5500rpm and press and hold the button, it will move my limit to 5500, as long as the button is pressed the car won’t rev pass set rpm but can still rev freely from 1000-5500. Makes launching the car 100000 times better as when you dump the clutch you can leave your finger on until traction is made then release and you should be off. On that note is you set it to 3000rpm it will still build boost. Will take from videos tomorrow so you all can see it in action. Apart from that still waiting for parts to arrive but have been cleaning him for the last 4hrs as it was long over due and more cleaning to be had tomorrow.
  31. 3 points
  32. 3 points
    The first. The second picture should be removed from the annals of history. You can and should apply some light grease to the inner surface of the seal that runs on the cam; factory ones come with it. Silicone should not be required on the outside of the cam seal but I have heard of it being done.
  33. 3 points
    Why would you care less about the Evo being scratched or crashed than the GTR if either car is your pride and joy? 🙄 Obviously you can expect this kind of reply in a Skyline forum probably asking in the wrong place lol. Stock for Stock an Evo 9 is absolute world's ahead of a GTR in every aspect. Obviously its a much smarter, high tech engine and driveline that is not from the Jurassic period like an RB26 and it's Landcruiser AWD setup. The GTR/RB26 is a lethargic nugget on the street. (Sorry guys but it is) It has tall ratio gears, it makes f**k all torque down low thanks to it's short stroke, laggy turbos, low compression motor and short runner intake manifold. Don't get me wrong I love GTR's and I have driven MANY in every capacity available with all of the usual twin turbo options and also in many popular single turbo options I've also driven them almost every gearbox option available from stock 5/6 speeds, gearsets & sequentials. There's no denying the soundtrack an RB makes compared to a 4G . A GTR requires seriously large amounts of $$$ to make them street friendly. Don't expect to keep up with "modern commuter cars" in traffic in a 5 speed RB26 lol unless your foot is buried into the carpet and you're above 5000rpm. IMO the only way a GTR can be appreciated properly is in spirited hills runs or on the track. The evo on the other hand is the opposite world of a GTR, it's super responsive, it's torquey down low, it has short gearing to make it feel very Zingy on the street ,there's really no comparison between the 2 ( realistic you can't compare) as there's well over a decade of tech and engineering in the Evo over the R32. Evo has far superior handling over a GTR. Yes this is subjective as alot of blokes love the RWD feel the GTR gives but it has nowhere near the grip or agility of an Evo. The Stock turbo on the Evo even to this day 1 of the best setups on a car to date. Its capable of 270kw on E85 with almost N/A like response. It's really quite hard to beat on the street & because it has short gearing and killer response you don't have to be doing 5000+ rpm with long gears which means higher speeds to actually enjoy the power like a GTR. I obviously love my evo and I love GTR's and they may look similar on paper but both cars couldn't be further apart when you drive them back to back. Obviously the solution is drive both cars and see what you like the feel Of most! Awaiting flames.... 🔥🔥🔥
  34. 3 points
    The rules for GTR ownership have always been the same. If you think you can afford to buy one, double that value number and then think again. Because every GTR has the potential to cost you double what you paid for it in the first few years.
  35. 3 points
  36. 3 points
    @Murray_Calavera done! I believe it would have taken a few more degrees but I chose boost > timing. Wasn't planning to run this much boost, but things didn't go to plan and I wanted to see 400kW+ LOL Base timing table: Compensation Table: Approximately where peak torque was: Digging a bit deeper, looks like the IATs got pretty warm at 57 degrees, a new FMIC will get me that 430~440kW target! Kebabtech Log file (useless if opened in excel, use Data Log Viewer): 407kW Birrong_Log.csv
  37. 3 points
    Ok so Project "Waste More Time" is underway... Got the high tensile bolts for the puller today. Don't have a lathe so whipped out the poor man's version 🤣. Never tried it before but seems to do the trick! I kept the verniers handy to monitor the size as i went and then finished them off with a flat file to get as close to the 5mm hole size in the sleeve as possible. Once I've made the puller section I'll grind the tips to the perfect length (3.85mm) so the necked down section is as short as it can be to make it as strong as possible. Feel free to let me know if posting this stuff is boring as bat shit. Its not very car related at the moment. I've got thick skin so you won't offend me!
  38. 3 points
    Just to clarify for future reference, having gone through all of this recently due do the previous owner of my car loosing all of the bolts and spacers. Spacer: OD=12mm / ID=6.5mm / THICKNESS=5mm (measurements taken from new Nissan P/N 13525-58S00) Bolt: 6mm dia. / 1mm pitch / 15mm length. I'm using some OEM 25mm bolts with the integrated lock washer and flat washer (common mounting bolts for things in the engine bay), which leaves me with 22mm of exposed thread. When installed into the CAS I can see 2-3mm protruding towards the cam gear, but there's 15-20mm of clearance before it hits the cam gear. Cheers
  39. 3 points
    Come finish my build in Australia, much better country too.
  40. 3 points
    Back at it..... You'll come to find out I have an unnatural addiction to my wire wheels just about every bit of this car has been touched by them... yeah I have a sand blaster and it gets used from time to time but when your already in a dusty area shooting sand is.... well it's not pleasant. Here's what the first wheel well looked like after the first few days of work. you can only work so long in an non insulated garage with no fans in the dead of the texas heat. Usually about the time I'm producing mud instead of sweat it's time to take a break. Anyway everything was stripped away even the seam sealer. I was leaving no room for unexpected rust. And I'm still not. As of right now were about 6 months into this aaaaand the parts have begun to pile And as nice as it was to see everything begin to pile up it was time to start really getting into the meat of cleaning and preping what was going to be reused with everything cleaned a primed it was time to get everythin painted. And test fitted.
  41. 3 points
    I only have opinions. Because I know what I'm talking about. But seeing as you don't want them, I'm not going to answer.
  42. 3 points
    yep i have a 6 boost with single divided outlet, 8374 1.05 on a 2.6l rb26 50mm progate, 7psi spring a 4 port mac valve. no creep above 10psi of boost. below this you are asking too much flow through the gate. the lowest boost run was with the boost solenoid unplugged from ecu.
  43. 3 points
    Moved mine into storage last year after a couple of attempts to steal. I was lucky. First attempt, the would be thieves were deterred by the alarm going off. Second attempt, the same thieves accompanied by muscle were staring at an empty car space. I had moved it to a friends garage the day before as I had to travel overseas to work. As I said, lucky Both times, faces are caught on CCTV. They couldn't have cared less. Other than the anger that I felt about my car almost being stolen, damage to door locks etc. I felt anger at the thought that others could have been caught up in this bullshit. I am not a millionaire. My car isn't a Bugatti Veyron, Ferrari or Koenigsegg (however you spell it). But I have to spend money like I am one to keep hold of my circa $50k car. People say that GT-R owners are precious. Is it any wonder?
  44. 3 points
  45. 3 points
    Nah he pumped too much boost through it and blew some shit up, scroll back where he talks about fixing it. Keep up bro.
  46. 3 points
    452kw and an exploded gearbox within 2 hours of finished dyno session.
  47. 3 points
    Do not go to the RB30 dyno results forum, that's a trap and will lead you astray. I'll now teach you the four step process to correctly picking a turbo. Step 1. Look around your house and find the biggest dinner plate you own. Step 2. Bring the dinner plate to your local turbo supply store. Step 3. ??? Step 4. Purchase a turbo that is bigger then the dinner plate.
  48. 2 points
    I'm too old to know what this @ # social network stuff is
  49. 2 points
    Don't daily a 32 GTR, if you do the parts will be on Gumtree soon enough.
  50. 2 points
    Mama didnt raise no quitter!!!!, she raised an addict!! I dont quit doing things I just take breaks.
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