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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/23/2019 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Welcome! Absolutely beautiful car! Any more pics?
  2. 1 point
    Thanks! She's got 140K Km on her, the previous owner appears to have done a great job keeping her clean, i've only owned her for about 3-4 months. Ironically, this car got me into detailing so I want to keep it that way. I will PM you about your question on the Germans! -R
  3. 1 point
    Seconded. More pics please (its all i ever do here...)
  4. 1 point
    Welcome Jimmy Firstly, beautiful GTR mate. I actually think I know that GTR as it looks like one that was for sale in my area recently. It doesn't happen to have custom plates, does it?
  5. 1 point
    Tuck your balls away and go to sleep. Bought long time ago
  6. 1 point
    So a bit of a small rundown on the 142. Looked to have sat for possibly 23 years until we came across it about 8 months ago, and took it home 4 months later. It had a substantial hit to the passenger side wheel which had bent the lower control arm into a taco, among the other damage sustained, possibly during the Dutton rally of 1995. We had the engine running off a jerry can and car moving and driving a week after getting it home, we knew we were onto a winner. The whole fuel system has been removed, cleaned and new lines ran to make sure it was safe and i wouldnt have any problems later down the track. The compression was exactly the same on all 4, i forget what it was, 100psi? who knows. We wired in a new alternator and ran a few vac lines and coolant lines etc. Just making sure the engine was tight and wouldnt cause any troubles later on. From here it was a matter of getting new parts and making my own. The brakes now consist of all brand new lines from cvi performance, home made vented 240 rotors with 4 piston calipers and 850 rear calipers. Rebuilt the master cylinder and took everything apart to be cleaned and re ran. The brakes now work like a charm The wheels are home made and were originally cougar 17x8 which sat a little to far in for my liking, so the centers were cut out and flipped and re welded better than original, only needing 10g weights to be balanced. The flares were from my mate steve who didnt want to cut his perfect 260z guards. I didnt have a problem getting the angle grinder out and giving it a crack on the 142 though. The interior is my favorite part of the car. The interior was trashed and almost beyond repair. I didnt want to buy anything or chase people and or parts so i did the next best thing. Fix anything that wasn't good enough, and by that i mean, just spray everything black and get some mexican seat covers to set the tone of the build. The whole heater system has been removed and anything that wasn't needed, so the dash now only consists of a hazard switch, the rest has been sprayed matt black and a fascia made to clean it up a little. The dash pad has been completely filled and re molded to make it as flat as possible and is now flocked, it really shines in the sun without adding any glare to anything. I got an old 2000's Trix 4 point cage from an old volvo enthusiast. and a bunch of other random stuff has been done. The suspension needed a bit of work and im not finished with it yet as all that has been done is koni adjustables front and rear, and 8kg king springs up front. Most of the bushes are in OK condition but could really benefit from some poly's. The car drives great with its current setup, its very comfortable without swaying around everywhere. The front and rear shocks have great rebound so the car has give to articulate through the corners, but doesn't just spring back and see you off in the other direction. There is sooo much more that has been done, its been a huge slog the last few months to get it to where it is today, lots of late nights and long weekends. Some of my neighbors have been watching with a keen eye to see what i was going to do with this car. And today it was on a bit of a show of its own as i was taking it around the block and having chats to a few people about it. This car is far from perfect, which has been a great thing for me. Coming from the Stagea where everything was immaculate and perfectly done. It has been a nice change just being able to cut and make things without the drama of making things 2 to 3 times, i did still get carried away with a few things though.. Everything that has been done has been done in my carport. During winter... I shudder just thinking back on it haha And i guess thats where i am up to with the 142.
  7. 1 point
    So I built this and I thought Id share:     I dont know where to start as im putting this up as a completed build, it took us 8 months and alot went on so see how it goes with the explanations.   I have been drifting for 5 years at state and national level in an r32 4 door with the odd grip lap thrown in there at RAC driving centre tuning days etc now looking to still drift for a bit of fun but will be doing some 'proper' track work and learning how to drive straight   Aim is to drive it have some fun, do different type of events and just pull it out when I want to drive it and pack it away when I dont. For now keep it at the level where if something breaks ie: engine or g/box I can fix and drive it again and not have it sitting around for 6 mths to rebuild a 20k engine. Concentrated on a solid balanced car and if anything would be concentrating on reducing the weight further rather than looking for too much more power   Apologise for crap photos but some pics are better than none and it just got finished Saturday arvo and I ran it this sunday gone   Basically I bought the car as a painted shell with the cage in it done by Racing dynamics, tubbed fronts and cut out boot with ATL fuel cell framed with chrome moly so good starting point Then the build started: Engine / driveline rb25 'standard' - head done by head torque, Metal head gasket, ARP bolts, poncams, custom large capcity sump Gtx 3076 with 0.82 rear 6 boost Tial 44 wastegate Custom intake Plazmaman intake plenum ID1000's + fuel rail Spitfire coils Vipec v88 ecu Custom catch can with drain to sump Custom Intercooler piping Koyo Rad PWR intercooler HKS oil cooler Aeroflow p/s cooler Chasebays P/s pump + coolant resivour Exedy Clutch Std rb25 gearbox Kazz 2 way with 4.11 Custom dump and exhaust with v band = sidepipe Custom full car rewire + engine harness All braided lines with speedflow fittings for oil, water, wategate, fuel lines ATL fuel cell - custom framing ext lift pump 2 x ext bosch fuel pumps on ally surge tank w/ micro filter Suspension / Brakes / Wheels Tien Drift coilovers Whiteline Sways F/R Front: s15 rack Tien tie rods + ends Power by Max LCA's + castor rods Kazama camber arms 3up knuckles - very mild Rear: S14 subframe - braced w/ custom mounting points Zenki LCA's Kazama Camber arms Kazama Toe arms Brakes: R34 GTR Brembo calipers Project Mu single peice rotars Project Mu HC + pads all round K Sport Hydro h/brake Braided lines all round GTR brake booster w/ bm50 bmc     18 x 10 + 15 rims - Rota's (yes i have 12 due to drifting will upgrade later) Will start on 265 Achillies 123's but have Yoko 050's in the shed ready for curcuit   Interior / exterior Racing Dynamics cage Air Jacks for rear - port will be in fuel flap Full gutted doors + rear parcel replaced with 2mm ally powdercoated black Floor pan drivers + passenger side (not is yet) Cobra drivers seat / Bride passenger seat + harnesses Std dash, switch panel, Autometer gauge setup in dash + working fuel gauge for ATL fuel cell Lithium battery (1.7kg) 3mm Lexan windows all round Origin full bodykit Have 2 x spare bodykits Have various front bars - Gtr etc Carbon Jun style lip Abflug carbon front under tray Jun style reatr carbon diffuser Gtr front gaurds - also have Dmax frp gaurds Rear flares Origin GT wing 1700mm Custom fab work: (by PSA / Precision suspension) Intercooler / rad / front bar / light support Rear Boot frame for wing although attached to boot goes onto fram which goes to chasiss Window frames for lexan windows (pillarless doors) + door handles Exhaust w/ v band Catch Can Fuel Filler ++++     Tuned on Allstar dyno on pump E85 = 500hp - 550nm full boost 4100 at 20psi bleeding it off to 17psi (drift tune)   Will drive the car now and get used to it and make all the little adjustments as we go if I do more circuit work I will run another map and tune so it doesnt blow the tyres off also get proper rear wing etc   Havent weighed the car yet but totally guessing about 1240kg ??           Lots and progress to come and be made on the car but for now onto driving it ! Im not very good at updating and all that but will see how we go .. thanks for reading (if you have got this far haha)
  8. 1 point
    I have a future project in mind that im very seriously looking into, Now 99% of you will tune round and say this is a stupid idea but please look at it from my point of view. Im hoping to convert a RS4 Stagea to Diesel Turbo, Now this is where i know your asking WHY??? Yes i know it will be slower, I travel 700+ks a week for work and get Diesel fuel for free, I have a Nissan Avenir SW11 Diesel Turbo and its a great car but getting up over 300,000ks now and i want something a little better for towing the boat but something im happy to drive every day. Im not out to win any races, Before anyone asks the RD28T was in the Nissan Patrol/Safari and that is 300kgs heavier than a staega, Now i under stand the requirements of an adapter plate and pickup. (think same thing as a RB30 GTR conversion) So im certain i can get it in there and running, The area im a little unsure of is the wiring, How much input from the engine ECU is required to make the Attessa AWD system work??? I believe it may need a signal from the throttle position sensor, Which i guess i could fab one onto the injector pump to get a sensor feed setup from that. Is there anyone on here that knows how all the wiring etc for this system works that i could bounce some ideas off, (someone with an open mind who doesn't just think that the only way to modify a car is to make it faster). Or someone who has some detailed wiring diagrams of the system that would be great, I would in parts at a Auto Electrical work shop so have a reasonable idea how wiring works and have sparkys to bounce ideas off and help me out, I really want to try make this work on the AWD platform as i think with the amount of ks i do and pulling the boat up wet boat ramps the AWD will be very handy, If it becomes seemly impossible then i guess that a 2WD platform could be used which will still give me the large diesel wagon im after. We get alot of 2WD Stages here in NZ, So finding one is easy. __________________
  9. 1 point
    Hey mate, thanks for the kind words! To be honest i'm fairly confident when it comes to working on my car and i have all of the tools required so these jobs are learning/fun to me. This was the first major paint/panel job i've done however and it came together fairly easily with a bit of thinking and know-how. The hardest bit was getting the skirts lined up without someone to help me hold them but clever use of painters tape and some old books to keep them propped up made it do-able Thankfully the JSAI parts fit incredibly well for replica parts, and the same can be said for the D1 spec front lip. The lip took me and a mate to get it secured on to the front bar comfortably... The main reason this was a pain is because both the front bar and lip are awkwardly shaped and we were fixing the lip to the front bar while it was balanced on top of a wheelie bin.. lol As for the time frame, i allowed a good 2 or so hours of fitting time for the skirts and pods just because you want it to line up right, mock it up a few times, look at it from different angles and then mount them up. As for the lip that took a couple of hours of painting but once it was painted it went on with the front bar in about 15 minutes. Cheers
  10. 1 point
    ^ Dude - wrong thread for that question. Start a new thread. I used Ryco PN:RCA113P to replace my cabin filter. Old one (a bosch) was rank too.
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