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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/16/2019 in Posts

  1. 5 points
  2. 4 points
    Managed to get out and clean the car today. Just a small update, have slowly been getting used to it. Still havent tried high boost but car was serviced and is now running descent rubber all around. Got recommended from a mate to try Potenza RE003's. And can say that the difference is night and day and they are a great tyre for sure. Car feels so good to drive and even manage to have traction in Second Gear. Over all am loving it ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh. Cant wait to try the high boost at some point.
  3. 4 points
  4. 3 points
    Yes the R32 GTR ECU most certainly wants the 32 Titania version. There is a different setting in the Power FC to change in the ETC menu for the O2 sensor reg setting depending on R32 Titania or R33 Zirconia sensors. From Apexi: There is a difference in the O2 Sensor for these vehicles. (With or without internal register) After tuning, please check () "O2 Sensor REGISTER" for BNR32, and NOT for BCNR33. So off (+ sign) for R33 O2 sensors. I have my BCNR33 set like this in my Apexi Power FC. I don't know how the Haltech Elite deals with it as I have no narrowband O2 sensors fitted on my 32 (use CAN wideband) and have them turned off in the ESP software. Nistune is also onto this, here's what they have to say: NIStune Using R32 GTR ECU on R33 GTR - Updated The R32 ECU is a plug-in job and works seamlessly in the R33 except that they use different O2 sensors (and heaters for the O2 sensors are wired differently). Both easily fixed. Sensors: R32 uses a titania sensor. These sensors don't produce a voltage themselves - they're resistive. So resistance changes between rich and lean. This type of sensor produces a voltage of between approx 0V for lean to 1V for rich. R33 uses a zirconia sensor. This type of sensor produces a voltage of between approx 0V for lean to 1V for rich. When running these sensors with an R32 ECU you'll find that they still work but the voltage range is different (read lower). The lean/rich trigger voltages must be adjusted using NIStune. Monitor the voltages in NIStune and adjust the rich/lean trigger voltages as required. Sensor heaters: R32 runs the heaters whenever IGN power is on. R33 ECU controls the heaters itself by supplying GND (the heater has 12V supplied to the other side whenever IGN is on) to turn heaters on. So what we need to do is supply GND to the heaters so they operate the same as R32 - they're on whenever IGN is on. This is done inside the ECU by linking O2 sensor GND (pin 50) to the pin used for heater GND by the R33 ECU (pin 115). R32 GTR heaters AND SENSOR get ground from pin 50. R33 GTR heaters AND SENSOR get ground from pin 115. On R32 GTR ecu pin 115 is not connected. On R33 GTR ecu pin 115 provides heater ground. So to provide this GND using the R32 ECU we simply need to bridge pin 50 to 115 with a wire link. http://nistune.com/docs/R32 GTR ECU on R33 GTR.pdf
  5. 2 points
    Hi everyone, I used to be on these forums quite a bit going back 6-10ish years ago when I had my R33 GTST (avatar) and this was a great place where I found guides on how to do everything imaginable, and really as a 19 year old with no previous mechanical knowledge that was what taught me how to work on cars. I lost my licence being silly (well ended up on 12 month good behaviour...) so I sold the skyline and drove boring cars for a couple of years. After about 4 years I ended up with a stock Forester XT that was only ever meant to be a bit of a fun car, but that turned into a beast as now I've done every possible bolt-on mod (big turbo, big intercooler, full exhaust, intake and heaps of smaller supporting mods) for and almost doubled it's power (127kw -> 214kw). I also bought a motorbike to commute as fuel was adding up. Long story short we moved closer to my work again and when I listed the bike for sale, someone offered me a S1 Stagea RS4 auto awd as a swap... after thinking about it and going to inspect it we went ahead with the trade. The Stagea was definitely not in showroom condition but did have a few things done to it like a rebuilt motor which interested me and of course I saw the potential of the RB25DET Anyway it's good to be back... I'll shortly go ahead and make a build journal here, which is the best place to do that? Are members galleries a used thing these days or am I better off making a thread in a specific forum?
  6. 2 points
    Mate you are shameless, you have changed half the engine bay components, but for two years you didn't check the fuses. Incredible.
  7. 2 points
    Now with wanker obnoxious noises, fit for a dickhead in a Skyline
  8. 2 points
    It doesn't modify shit, it applies a compensation/trim in either short term and/or long term trim. The fuel table stays as is. However in aftermarket ECUs it stores the trims and you're able to apply it to the base table. This is the only time it "modifies" the fuel table.
  9. 2 points
    At least slaps spelling has gotten better. Fyi i happily use united E10 95ron in my non performance shitboxes and prefer it over 91 puke and overpriced 98. The skyline only gets the best, E85 and on the odd occasion BP 98.
  10. 2 points
    Take the cap off a running engine. Oil doest come shooting out
  11. 2 points
  12. 2 points
    This has been discussed AD NAUSEUM in the last 6 pages mate, you could at least read them. (Ad nauseam is a Latin term for argument or other discussion that has continued to the point of nausea. For example, "this has been discussed ad nauseam" indicates that the topic has been discussed extensively and those involved have grown sick of it.)
  13. 1 point
    It is indeed. I'm starting to realise i'm not as difficult to find online as I thought... 😂
  14. 1 point
    Yes that's it. Amayama have the speed sensor but not the drive cog, now just google the part number and you will find other suppliers who do have stock, (Concord parts USA have stock)the 21 tooth drive cog was used on many different Nissans No-one ever said finding parts for 23 year old JDM vehicles would be easy.
  15. 1 point
    Is this the one? https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/3274371t21
  16. 1 point
    Thanks for the reply, Yes its occurs once in two years. This time my school taking us. Yeah there are other events like drifting. Those are cool.
  17. 1 point
    lol just like the workshop manual says. the only things worth mentioning are dropping the rear of the gearbox by lowering (but not removing) the gearbox cross member bolts, will make getting to the top bolts much easier (either from above, or by using a set of long extensions while standing at the rear of the gearbox), and of course the engine has to be on the exact sample angle as the gearbox/input shaft when you get to the last couple of cm. BTW I hope the mechanic is mates rates if they needed to get you to ask this...
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    Pull the seat off and have a look. Something might've broken/jammed in there *captain obvious flies away*
  20. 1 point
    I wouldn't rely on a single intake fuel pump on a S13 to be supplying fuel on the track. You'll get into surge issues. Just leave the current setup and box it up like you've mentioned earlier.
  21. 1 point
    Take it back to the reco merchant who built it and ask him nicely to fix it (ie install 5th gear selector fork) I have found taking my 6 foot 4 110kg son with me on these missions gets fast positive action.
  22. 1 point
    Cranks are same. Spigot bush pressed in the back of it is different for auto/man. I'm not absolutely sure with RB25s, but at least with R32 RB20s, the autos ran at 20° idle timing and the manuals at 15°. This needs to be set correctly with a timing light (obviously enough) and is something that should be carefully checked if doing a swap such as you're describing, in case you end up with a manual ECU thinking it is set at 15° when the CAS is set to give 20° and the extra 5° turns up in the timing at peak torque.
  23. 1 point
    My wife and I took our cars out to a night meet at Docklands Costco (Cars and Coffee). It was absolutely packed. I had no idea how many cars would show up, turned out hundreds... It was a pretty good mix of cars, if they could just lose the people who show up in stock Commodores and Falcons with straight through exhausts it would be perfect. The GTRs got a lot of love while we were there, and the silver one picked up a very slight scratch in the rear bar (sigh). I'm sure it's only the clear top coat, but it's still annoying as hell. Anywho, pictures (not all mine btw):
  24. 1 point
    Sorry Ben, you are completely wrong the de auto R33 is a 5 speed or 4 speed. Only turbo's and very late de's are 4 speed.
  25. 1 point
    PM sent. Brakes seem good be nice to try... big step from my R34 Brembo's / project my rotor and pads combo but honestly they more than do the job for a sprint and havent failed me yet - if it wasnt tapped in the head and chasing tenths Id be more than happy to leave them as is. Plus Im running up to 633 hp now so pushing it a bit I do hold 4th twice past shift change (at 7K) at the end of the front straight and down to the bowl at Barbs for too long but thats so I dont lose time changing to 5th, down the back straight its just flashing up shift change just before I brake New brakes hopefully brake a bit later so tatics might have to change a bit for the holding in 4th gear ratio calcs at 7k rev say 4th tops out at 214kmph and i consistently see just over 200's when holding and have seen 211 once. 5th cals top out at 255kmph and I see low / mid 240's with high at 248kmph .. actual track data - was interesting as its pretty close cals to practical...but yes there is no room left so Diff guru over here thinks a 3.7 - but they also said I couldnt mash the loud peddle out of corners on full power and put it down... but i can
  26. 1 point
    Bosch Motorsport/Injector Dynamics only
  27. 1 point
    Slap, looking at plugs for variations is a completely sensible thing to do. It isn't going to be super accurate but will show differences. The best would be 6 widebands, is that what you do? Or second best is egt. But even then thats an indirect measurement.
  28. 1 point
    Stunning looking car! Red works perfectly with the black accents. Good job!
  29. 1 point
    Aww come on mate, don't hold back, say what you really feel.
  30. 1 point
    Your afrs as per the above chart don't look too bad. But regarding plug gap your tuner is flat out wrong. Factory is 1.1mm or .043 inches and people with beefed up ignition systems can run that gap ok. With Splitfires and a decent amount of boost gapping down to 0.8mm or .032 inches works ok. But .5mm is getting ridiculous. There are literally thousands of RBs running in Australia and New Zealand and tuners have over two decades of data to work with and I don't think you would find one among them who would think you should gap down to .5mm Also remotely accessing your ecu and playing with the maps without any monitoring equipment is not proper tuning.
  31. 1 point
    Spoiler alert..there's plastic clips that need to be jerked up, then jerked off. Angled rather than straight up and down.
  32. 1 point
    So your car is not sitting on a dyno? The tuner is just playing with the maps? Do not gap your new plugs at .02 go to 32 thou (.8mm or .032 in) The fuel controller is the ecu so if you reckon the pump and fpr are fine that just leaves the injectors so as Murray says what kind are they and could they need cleaning and testing? Do you have any idea what the duty cycle is on the injectors? I still think your tuner does not know what he is doing.
  33. 1 point
    Or MCA, from Australia, per previous recommendations. Similar spring rates and top notch dampers.
  34. 1 point
    Splitfire coils (direct drop in) or R35 or 370Z coil conversion kit. Don't install any coils that aren't black or blue in colour.
  35. 1 point
    Hello...search threads, and google images of the underside of spolier. I had the same query back in the day, and found the info that way.
  36. 1 point
    Back at Cootamundra again with better diff gears. Found the limits of the transmission and Intercooler at 10.5 sec passes. Trans slipping into 3rd converter slip of 22% and intake temps at 90deg. Will have a trans and converter upgrade sorted in the next few weeks. 7C791FF5-9040-4B69-A424-E2A35875C82F.mov
  37. 1 point
    The intake pipe was made up and the blow off valve pipe modified so they will recirculate. also took the blow of valves out of the car and swapped over to a set of bolt on gfb ones and then put all the bracket and etc back on so they’re ready to fit back in the car
  38. 1 point
    I suggest you get a proper ECU, rather than a Bee*R rev limiter which would eventually blow apart your turbo, drive train and the works. It's merely a terrible hack/interceptor for bangs and wank.
  39. 1 point
    I prefer anything over tapatalk, even avoid forums that keep showing popups for it... Never seen the advantage of it 😮 @PranK, thank you for valuing our privacy!
  40. 1 point
    WOW, what a difference Dyno is saved file from pre-tune in March to 8 psi boost now, WOW Car is as responsive as farrrrk, pulls hard, WOW Most importantly is that cold start is not as loud, the turbo has done its main job at muffling the exhaust..........😜 Shiny clamps is the only giveaway Down there somewhere Pretty black So far the rods are still in one piece
  41. 1 point
    I'm more looking forward to the first time the Mrs hears it, she is going to be well pissed off......her reaction should be pretty funny. I will just explain that it needed the turbo to quiten down cold start. That reaction should be pretty sweet as well. God bless her, and may god have mercy on my soul.
  42. 1 point
    that's a decent thread to reference for the "squirrel" trick, it's taking that reference pin and supplying the 5v source to the 3 other pins. The diodes roughly drop the voltage about .6v per diode so just roughly do the math listed in the thread to get the output you need for each pin.
  43. 1 point
    If you are going to have a mega KW build you could consider having O2 sensors for each cylinder. When you assemble your engine get your injectors cleaned and flow tested. New ones should have flow information available. Then regularly replace your fuel filters.
  44. 1 point
    While we are at it, why don't we just stop tuning ignition maps? Set the whole thing to 40 degrees and let the knock control sort it out!
  45. 1 point
    Fill the car with 91 from an empty tank and do a few full throttle pulls if you want to find out just how good the tune really is. OEM tunes and engines are built assuming that you will put in 91 RON at some point, maybe even indefinitely. They have to survive however many det events it takes for the ECU to pull timing to a safe level and keep running reliably without making EGTs go through the roof despite retarded ignition timing and rich fuel mixtures. I personally do not have a great deal of trust in most tuners. From what I have seen many tunes out there are not very refined.
  46. 1 point
    It so quiet 😁 it’s perfect
  47. 1 point
    When I told people my people my best mate was building the exhaust, most of them rolled their eyes. After I showed them the progress photos ive had a few of those people ask me to get a quote to build their exhausts
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    Item: ARC Super Induction Box Age: NEW Condition: NEW and unused - still wrapped in plastic! Price: $600 + postage if you can't pick it up To Fit: R33 GTR Location: Melbourne, VIC Contact: James - PM or 0438 272 835 Comments: Bought this brand new but have decided to stick with the stock air box hence it is up for grabs. It is still wrapped in plastic, has all bolts, brackets, filters - everything for a bolt on and go for the R33 GTR. I did read the manual, or at least try to read it, and is the only item that isn't in plastic. (See pics) I paid well over $600 for it, if you make me an offer I may knock it back - I'm already making a big loss on it. Happy to answer any questions or provide more pics.
  50. 1 point
    Yes, GT-T win hands down... extreme weight advantage anywho... it's been pretty much a full year now since deciding on a Skyline for my 2nd car, and if i had it my way i'd have my ass in a R33 since about Nov/Dec last year... but there were certain... complications. The upside is that i've had all this time to save up and only a few months away, budget wise, from entering R34 GT-T terrority (low 30k's). But my dad has said that he'd be keen to go halves in an aparment. So half deposit, half the loan. As i'm only 19, this is where i'm gonna need ur advice guys and gals. I earn approx $1500 month NET (maybe a touch more). The type of apartments we were looking at were around $450K, so after paying deposit, i'd have a loan of about $200K for my half. But it would be an investment property, so i'd have ppl renting it. Hopefully nearly paying off the loan payemnts. So these are some options. 1. Just get a GT-T and don't have a huge loan hanging around. Cos i'd own the GT-T outright. 2. Just get an apartment... be smart, think ahead... yada yada, all that responsibility crap 3. Get apartment AND R34 GT-T, but add extra $35K onto the loan for the car and get renter ppl to pay off both. Of course i'd have to make up some difference each month, but hopefully it wouldn't be too much. So yeah, what do ya think ppl? Cos i really have no idea and if i decide getting the GT-T i'd like to take advantage of the good exchange rate and also the decreased demand at Japanese auctions currently cheers guys.
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