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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/16/2022 in Posts

  1. Hi guys, im a Brit who’s been using this forum for a while. I’m after some help so thought I’d come on and introduce myself. my name is Paddy and I’m an old man (46)! I own an R34 GTT in cloud white. Had it a good few years and do enjoy driving it! Also enjoy the attention it gets. for those of you who are interested I’ve posted a couple of pics. Not the best pics in the world and they seem to of come out worse than the originals but you get the picture Will post my issues in the relevant forum. I hope you guys can offer some advice. thanks.
    3 points
  2. Some testing done by Hypergear between OS and TS.
    3 points
  3. I have a g35-1050 on an rb26, started to wind boost into it and the head lifted. The response so far has been pretty similar to my old gt35 on rb26. 1 bar by 4200/300, so its not amazing by any means. "If" it gets the extra power though over the gt35 it will be a good thing. Taking the chance of head off to add vcam, so hoping this combo will be really responsive. I have been wondering about going t4 split now they are out but will mean going from the .86 I have not to the 1.06 as noted above. Not to mention the cost of manifold, housing, etc.
    3 points
  4. Now installed, fun times as the GKtech manual makes no mention of modifying the subframe brackets/brace plates. Needed to lop off the hump as the GKtech subframe bushes are flat and don't have an indent. Heaps of swearing later, it's in 🥳
    3 points
  5. Had some bits and pieces arrive in the mail over the last week. BMW shifter out of a 6 series, new setrab 25 row cooler with spal, and I ordered new center console and shifter surround as I had cut my factory one up to fit the glide shifter so I sold it with my box. Domiworks gearbox adapter is currently being made up, will have to get a custom flexplate made up as we can't get it to fit with a yellaterra flexplate without making the bellhousing adapter wider. So that and the install board and 8hp connector should be here in the next couple of weeks. Also put new brake lines in a few weeks back now. Wanted to clean up the bay a bit more and hide them/mount them a bit better. Just hoping the route I've taken doesnt get heated up too much by the dump pipe. Glide is also now out and waiting to be picked up by the new owner in a couple of weeks when I get back from Fraser. Hopefully when I get back ill get cracking on interior and mounting the new shifter.
    3 points
  6. It will probably be bought by some douchebag crypto bro who trades monkey jpeg's all day and trying to hype up the next rugpull shitcoin, while his Mrs schlicks to an audience of simps on OnlyFans.
    3 points
  7. Got engine and gearbox in yesterday. Happy with how it looks, waiting on a few sensors to arrive this week so will focus on some fab work that needs to be done.
    3 points
  8. What is happening is it moved back in with me. Weve been separated for 5 years, though some work was being done, up until i quit work last year, and then the workshop it was in got sold, so she'd been hiding elsewhere. Our house settled Friday afternoon, so i got her home Saturday (today)!
    3 points
  9. This car will never run with this motor, by 2026 you'll be fitting Tesla motors to it lol
    2 points
  10. Been slack lately. Have done a lot but achieved nothing if that makes sense? I'm playing around with a few ideas which are time and brain cell destroying... What I have done first- Make an alloy pointer for pin point timing. Will most likely powdercoat it then put a white/silver tip. Powdercoated a few more bits and pieces for installation. Temp fit the exhaust manifold and turbo so I can make the PRP turbo oil drain fit out of the car. Needed to order some new fittings for the block so waiting on those. Had to get the intake plenum flange machined as it was warped from when it was welded up in production. Snapped the dipstick tube off in the block. Don't want to talk about it.... Sump off AGAIN and dipstick tube ordered..... Started rewiring the engine from the engine end also AGAIN, allowing for some additional inputs plus that leads onto the next part I'm still pondering.... So I want to somewhat "wire tuck" the engine bay and there really isn't a nice place to put bulkhead fittings on the drivers side to stop any wires running across the back of the firewall. So...... What I'm thinking is having 2 bulkhead fittings remote mounted under the brake booster and pretty much out of sight that also enable easy removal of the engine (cause GT-R....). I haven't entirely convinced myself it's the right option yet but strongly leaning that way. Feel free to offer your thoughts or rain down the hate! 😅 Made a few templates and trial runs to get it to where I think it would work if I do it- I've pretty much resigned to the fact that I'm painting the engine bay too.... 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️
    2 points
  11. Plus, if you wanted to do a kit, you'd be smarter to avoid relying on having to obtain RB26 ITBs. You'd want to use DCOE pattern or readily available motorbike single throttles or something actually available and not subject to GTR tax.
    2 points
  12. I wouldn’t go near it, there’s a reason he’s left the cams in, the 3rd journal on the intake cam is stuffed and the 1st, 2nd journal on the exhaust are pretty bad and the 3rd and 4th aren’t far behind them
    2 points
  13. I 100% agree that another intake setup would be better performing but I like the uniqueness it brings to the build. I am not paying someone to do the fabrication and this has become something I want to figure out. Call me stubborn for being sold a "bolt-on" adapter plate. The waterjet has been down so it was quicker to machine them. I had one of my machinists at work (who is enthusiastic about making car parts) to give me a hand over the weekend. We started with .75" scrap we had kicking around and profiled out the shape. I transferred over the studs from the balance tube for a test fit. There is a slight interference caused by the distance between the top and bottom studs being off by .75mm. Not a huge deal as the split pins which locate the throttle bodies are on the bottom holes and they fit perfect. I just oversized the top holes on the ITBs to accommodate my stupid error in measurement You can see the difference in the ITB spacing vs the OEM RB20DET runner spacing here. The plan is to fill it with weld on the inside and weld on the outside as well. I can then smooth out the transition. -Jordie
    2 points
  14. Spray paint stripper. Work to remove paint. Prime it properly. Then spray paint it properly. The money paid to a proper paint shop to do it is going to be worth it if your DIY tendencies trend towards using a brush to paint it!!!
    2 points
  15. Life and mortgage allow a small car budget! Funnily enough, it only costs $3 extra a week for us to own, vs rent... and we were renting a tiny crab shack, especially compared to this place! the hardest item to budget is time! I love the new job, i often find working later than I should, as well as doing uni part time, and life with the four legged fluffy children
    2 points
  16. I'm hoping to fix it with gearing to start with, well, a bit anyway, if I can get it to shift thru 1-2-3 and not hit a limiter when it is wheel spinning then all is well It has a large PWR trans cooler so trans temps should be fine I do periodical checks on my trans fluid, it is always nice and clean and smells like trans fluid, not that burnt redy brown colour or that burnt chemical smell from cooked trans fluid In other IAT related news: To fit a interchiller on the HTV2300- VX SS combination, and for it to work efficiently, I need to fit thermal spacers, hell, for the HTV2300 to work efficiently even without a interchiller it needs thermal spacers. Not a big issue, you would think, and not that expensive, BUT, and it's a big but and I cannot lie, after alot more measuring up, the blower is now already slightly touching the underbonnet insulation The only way to fit the thermal spacers is to chop out the section under the cowl, see pic This highlights another issue, I was going to go back to a "stock" bonnet, well.....that ain't happening now Lessons learnt: don't get a downward discharge blower like mine, if I was going to do it again I would still go a blower, but an upwards discharge like on the LSA or a Magnuson TL;DR: Dooh, time to get the cutting discs out, chop chop on my loverly new underbonnet insulation and then pinchweld the world.....again LOL
    2 points
  17. I love your car updates, like Home and Away, goes on indefinitely with new story lines every week!
    2 points
  18. Sold all the all 4 stud gear, paid for my calipers at least. Fitted the other knuckle and tested fitted all calipers/rotors to work out what's needed. Need R34 GT-T Caliper bolts all round, existing braided lines all work OK, need to drill front knuckle for 14mm so will source that bit, still need pads but need to wait for Intima to get Type RS front and back, in Feb I think Johnny said. Need BM57 (anyone know if that works with R33 booster as i still have that). No chance I was getting my spare 17s over the rotor and caliper so to have it rolling I will leave caliper off until I get some 18s. Did a little shed tidy after so many projects so I can mess it up again. Keep forgetting to hang my freebie gktech banners I got from the Black Friday sale for extra jdm points.
    2 points
  19. Summernats 2023 Grand Champion? Would probably go ok in the burnout comp!
    2 points
  20. Stay safe. But also don't be too scared. It was a bad flu for me as it will be for 99% of people. Back onto cars, i'm taking my car to EC on the 25th Jan. First track day in 11 years! Cant wait to see how it goes.
    2 points
  21. This thread makes me want to buy an R33 ABS pump before they go NLA.
    2 points
  22. I had one r32 abs pump leak. Vacuum bleeding seemed the trigger for that but the seals get cooked from the heat and age so it probably in the post for everyone. There should be a decent supply of not so cooked abs pumps though if you want to replace like for like, just get one from a z32 and deal a little some wiring. The z32 has the pump in the boot so doesn't get cooked.
    2 points
  23. As I said, I'm not trying to talk you out of it. Just pointing out that you should not get your hopes up that a small 6 cylinder twin cam is going to make it feel like a proper sports car. I have no doubt that if you pay someone big money they can be made to make good power. Look at the old Holden 202 - they are pushing well over 300HP out of those nowadays. But back in my day (the 80s) it was a struggle to get 200HP out of them. People learnt what to do to make them make power. But it costs. There hasn't been a heap of development into making NA RBs make a lot of power, because.....the lure of the turbo reveals how poor the value proposition is. Yes, they sound bloody awesome revving to the moon through open ram tubes and long primary extractors. But the time taken to run from the bottom of the rev range to the top of the rev range reveals that they don't make a lot of power doing it. Listen too the Hakosuka video for the nearest example.
    1 point
  24. Yeah it's a fu(king disaster this thing. I'll probably bin it at some point and buy a Prius. Should be able to get $175000 as a roller anyway... I wouldn't fit a dirty stinkin Tesla to it BTW but I would put an Audi GT RS leccy donk in it!
    1 point
  25. HFM ae going to get a price for me on some 18x10 +10 forged rims, I' impressed they are even willing to entertain the idea.
    1 point
  26. Whats that, i can send you raw footage to edit? i cant sit down and edit videos for an hour. But funnily I can sit and 3D model for 6 hours straight
    1 point
  27. Buy a new Nismo grill for $3,000 USD instead I'd hit it with plasti-dip as it's easier/lazier way of doing it. Also be careful not to break any mounting bits as the plastic will be old and fragile.
    1 point
  28. Thanks for the kind words. The flanges are really simple to make / have made. the hard part is the fabrication of the welding and porting the openings to match which is why I would be hesitant to sell them as a kit. Plus I bet very few are as stubborn as me haha -Jordie
    1 point
  29. Proof right there! Great article here too: https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/twin-scroll-vs-single-scroll-turbo-test-the-great-divide/ Most car enthusiasts these days are too fixated on the final peak number they're producing, but often neglect to look at the low down, mid range, etc. Sure you're making 746kW (call it 1000hp so you sound cool quoting big numbers), but it's not going to be a fun car to drive, especially when you have like a 2k RPM range. It's kind of like a Honda, you need to rev the tits out of it to get anywhere.
    1 point
  30. You could add a larger reservoir to the heat exchanger circuit so can add ice when at the track. Where I was working at the time found adding a watertank/reservoir in boot of blown cars helped massively, less expensive than an interchiller kit but lost spare wheel well. Cars could do back to back runs with more consistant IATs. I fitted an interchiller and 4.9L whipple to a LS at a shop I was at and IATs were never a problem.
    1 point
  31. The blits FRP vented bonnet I had my 33 was pretty good The vent was just after the radiator Bonnet wasn't light though Like dis...>
    1 point
  32. Yes that's exactly what I use on the 2.8. Having said that the plugs really jam into the R35 coilpacks hard - so much so that when you remove them the stalks usually come away from coilpack and get stuck on the plug which is totally annoying, requiring the entire one piece coil bracket to be removed to retrieve them. This is using the Godzilla motorsports bracket with R35 coils, so a PRP bracket might not have this problem if the spacing to plug is slightly higher. The iso shorter length appears it would be a better fit I believe than the longer jic length but am yet to confirm this.
    1 point
  33. Hi all! I'm a little late to the SAU party but I had to get away from Facebook. Since this build started around 2017 this thread will be back-dated until it catches up with the present. I always wanted to import a car from Japan and the GTR ticked all the boxes that I wanted for my next project: RWD-oriented AWD, turbo, manual, and Japanese. Won the car at action in early 2017. Picked the car up at port about three months later. \ Gave it a wash as soon as I got home and got rid of the blue vacuum hoses. Once it was registered and road legal I threw it on the dyno just to see how well (read: poorly) it ran. Car came from Japan with VCAM, HKS GT2530s, HKS piping and intercooler kit, Kakimoto exhaust, OSG TS3B clutch, C's shifter, and all "tuned" with an HKS Vcon F-pro. Even with race fuel it still had detonation and we had to abort the testing. It was a dog anyway but we just wanted to see some sort of before data. Couldn't leave it like this and I already had an Elite waiting to go in. Got to work right away and installed the Elite, colder plugs, LQ9 coils with a bracket I drew up, ID1050 injectors, boost referenced regulator, and some needed maintenance items like fluids and an ATTESSA accumulator. Got some factory wheels locally and a set of Street SS tires. Got the car on the dyno and got the tuning sorted and then off to the track! Third pass ever in the car went a 10.9 at 125. Not bad for never launching an AWD manual car. Much harder than I expected.
    1 point
  34. Just to add to this, 645wkw, spitfires, 0.8mm gap and a morristech ignitor. I'd say I would get to near on 700 with this set up and a tighter gap. All on United E85
    1 point
  35. I have a commitment to each camp in the question to have ABS or not. My R33 GTR, R33 GTS-T Series II Sedan and C34 Stagea all have factory ABS and as they are all street cars I have left the ABS in place. I just go to a lot more trouble to keep the systems bleed correctly to keep good peddle feel. Both of my R33 GTS-T Series II coupes were purchased as factory non ABS cars. There is more skill involved in braking a non ABS car in a track situation and getting the best out of the car. From my experience there is more feel in the non ABS systems and there has to be to allow you to modulate the brake peddle and not flat spot a tyre. The only places where we have encountered problems is when there are bumps in heavy braking areas as it is easy to have a lock up and damage a tyre as a result. Maybe I am old fashioned but I really enjoy the additional challenge of driving a non ABS car in a track situation.
    1 point
  36. Better start drinking shit beer (VB) and get used to the taste of shit beer and better start growing me a mullet. Business up front, partayyy at the back cnuts!
    1 point
  37. They can advertise for what ever they like, it’s safe to say they won’t get it considering there hasn’t even been a ztune that has sold any where near that price
    1 point
  38. First day in 11 years and what 700hp+ or something? Into the weeds lol
    1 point
  39. They get put in a small thin vinyl bag with a single pres stud and dropped down into the bottom of the rear guard below the jack. That's all the science and niceness that Nissan put into it. They are only saved from rattling by the bag.
    1 point
  40. https://detailingshed.com.au/products/flex-xc-3401-vrg-dual-action-orbital-polisher and https://www.detailstore.com.au/collections/flex/products/flex-xfe-7-12-80-mini-da-random-orbital-polisher
    1 point
  41. Also converting to DBW with a 2014+ Hemi Challenger throttle body. Got an IO box for Christmas! We have lots of take-offs from customer cars and the bolt pattern is almost identical to Plazmaman's cable throttle. Cut the throttle and clamp down to match the dimensions of the cable throttle so can switch back if needed with no fabrication. Also makes the conversion easier. Got a 350z pedal from a yard for $25 so I'll try to use that. Apparently it's pretty close to bolt on.
    1 point
  42. I have a gtst which came with abs and that started to give an inconsistent brake feel so i took it out. And switched to the smaller non abs master cylinder to reduce the chances of snatching the brakes and locking up. I haven't driven it hard enough to really notice the difference other than that pedal is the same every time now. My 32 gtr factory abs worked well on track until it didn't. Failed in the wet on track and put the car in the tyre wall. I took the abs out and couldn't build any confidence in the brakes unless it was totally dry. So i put the bosch m4 system in and its immense, unlike any road abs i've tried. The bosch m5 is now way too expensive. But there is the option of retrofitting the bmw mk60 system which is available in three and four channel versions and the right model can be reflashed to the vehicle parameters of your choice.
    1 point
  43. Braced up, and also bits and pieces now in black. Yeah I blacked out the front GReddy strut brace too lol.
    1 point
  44. So there's actually a few additional notes here, one is that the cylinder 3 and 4 dowel pins must be on the ITBs, not the plenum/collector. Otherwise there is literally not enough clearance. I am amazed I got it on without some kind of catastrophic damage to the mating surfaces. I managed to get all of cylinder 5 studs back in after putting the collector on, then the top stud for cylinder 6. I had to use the double nut method, for some reason my studs after zinc coating require a wrench or something to help them tighten down. It definitely feels wrong, I have to carefully (emphasis on carefully) tighten it down until I feel the stud bottom out, then back it out ever so slightly so a stress riser is not created before trying very hard to not adjust the stud depth while removing the double nut locked together. The problem with cylinder 6 is that there is so little clearance I literally cannot get a crescent wrench or crows foot wrench to hold the back nut still while I tighten/loosen the front nut with a 12mm u-joint socket, so the stud is not properly seated. Any ideas?
    1 point
  45. Been a big push last few weeks getting the car ready for paint and reassembly. Wire wheeled all the brackets for the dash and centre console, gave them a fresh coat of black paint. Pulled the castor brackets out cleaned them up and got a coat of satin black too. Went to spray the engine bay just before New Years and that was a big fail as I hadn't cleaned the spray gun properly and it was too hot & humid. So while I was waiting for shops to open back up started making a new catch can, its over kill but good fab project. Fast forward 2 weeks and was able to finally get more paint. Resanded the engine bay & interior and gave it all a fresh coat of satin white. It looks much better all painted. Plans to get the engine and gearbox back in saturday and start getting it ready to run. Got a few new brackets to fab up for power steering res, overflow and fuse boxes. AND because I don't have enough projects........ 2007 Hyundai Getz that I am building for Hot Hatch Cup Australia https://hothatchcup.com.au/?fbclid=IwAR3tzSmEiSq1mzQoOxz2KiuHcrES4OzHfm2VoKMNZMu0iNVHjxd1V3jYynw
    1 point
  46. Another hot day in the shed yesterday. Over 40 degrees in the shed so I reckon I've lost a few kgs in sweat the last few days. Looking trim for Stereo... (the kids will get it....) Rather than be productive on the car I decided to make my K-Frame/Engine stand mobile.... Added permanent legs and caster wheels that will make it a bit easier to move around once the engine is sitting on it. Once I'm ready to bolt up the tranny I'll make another little dolly to roll around under the transfer case and support the back. I'll make it out of a spare bottle jack that I've got so I can adjust the height. Anyway, boring shit but at least I can say I didn't waste all of new years day... I've started the year off well in terms of actually doing something in the shed so we'll take that as a positive! Whacked one of the new wheels on to check fitment and although hard to guage properly without a tyre I think it looks amazing! Spacing relative to the guards looks perfect.
    1 point
  47. Hi Craig how did you go getting the cage? I’m searching for a bolt in option for v35 sedan.
    1 point
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