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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/21/2019 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    Your Brakelever looks like this? Time for an update! you need a sheet of smooth (automotive) leather, some Needles and waxed Thread. I get this from Aliexpress for less than 3$. First pull out the Metal Ring a little bit then cut the stitches And , surprise, the original isn`t genuine Leather! Took the original as a pattern for the new . Attention !!!! It isn`t a square. To get a perfect fit , cut 2mm narrower. Now do the punctures 3mm from the edge and 5mm wide You start like this. The thread has to be 4-5 times longer than the leather!!! To make it easier use a tube, keep attention that the cross of the tread , up and down, are all in the same way Now you can place the Leather to the Lever and then pull the seam tight do this with a crochet hook You can`t do this at once. Make 2-3 repeats! Keep an eye that the alignment is correct and the holes are at the same level. At the End .....the tricky Part. You have to put the Leather under the rabbet and fix it with the metal ring. The Leather has to be long enough but then it has a lot of wrinkles, is it to short it won`t be fixed Tricky. But in the End I´m very satisfied. A lot better than the old imitation Leather. I hope this is helpful for some!
  2. 5 points
    Did one ages before but on shitty tyres, I fear trying in such a small space with semis might propel the car into the Tiguan lol
  3. 3 points
    This has been discussed AD NAUSEUM in the last 6 pages mate, you could at least read them. (Ad nauseam is a Latin term for argument or other discussion that has continued to the point of nausea. For example, "this has been discussed ad nauseam" indicates that the topic has been discussed extensively and those involved have grown sick of it.)
  4. 3 points
    I asked his security guard on the weekend and he said he didn't know
  5. 2 points
    Back at Cootamundra again with better diff gears. Found the limits of the transmission and Intercooler at 10.5 sec passes. Trans slipping into 3rd converter slip of 22% and intake temps at 90deg. Will have a trans and converter upgrade sorted in the next few weeks. 7C791FF5-9040-4B69-A424-E2A35875C82F.mov
  6. 2 points
    Looks super cool regardless. Love the '30's
  7. 2 points
    Nailed it. Wakefield 2-3 times a year, EC once or twice a year will cleanse you of this modern gayness you've been preaching. Don't be lazy brah, moving cars around is easy.
  8. 2 points
    so tru my nugget fiesta drives so much better than the s14 that i no longer care for driving it better brakes, better seats, faster, sharper steering, super slick gearshift, perfectly weighted pedals with no slop, awesome oem suspension and tyres (AD08R's), the fake but still cool induction noise, the driving position... list goes on
  9. 2 points
  10. 2 points
  11. 2 points
    So, got this as a new daily and keeping the S14 as a weekender... turns out, as a driving experience this thing does everything better than the Nissan, with the exception of ride quality. 20 years of progress 😁
  12. 2 points
    I used to come into here to find what people had tried and what was needed to run to get 'x' power so might help some looking to push rb25 and a real world example Comparison between old GTX3076 0.82 with spitfires and std CAS vs GTX3582 Gen ll 0.82 with Audi R8 coils and new CAS This is for circuit car - anything else I think the (new or old) GTX 3076 is pretty solid for 450 to high 500hp's Done on a roller : Old GTX 3076 0.82 setup on 24.5 psi - 550hp and 620nm - was awesome overall - good response - noses over at 7K New GTX3582 gen ll 0.82 on 23 psi - 570hp on 26 psi 663.5hp and 700nm - havent driven it yet but woke up with psi and wanted to keep making powas Relevant things: Rb25 built Poncams Audi R8 coils New CAS 6 Boost Bosch 1600 cc Injectiors Plasmaman plenum Koyo Rad PWR 500 x 300 intercooler 2" piping 3" straight through exh 45 Ext gate to screamer GTX3582 0.82 Gen ll PPG 5 speed dog box 4.11 diff ratio
  13. 1 point
    Any power taken from the ignition switch should only be used to energize a relay this minimizes current draw on the switch.
  14. 1 point
    In You will most likely find me already at the pie shop
  15. 1 point
    South Africa then - SA on an Australian forum is usually taken as being South Australia.
  16. 1 point
    Hi SAU, First time Stagea owner but second time Nissan owner. Over the years I have owned a few vehicles: NA6 Miata, XE10 IS200, RPS13 Type X and finally my JZX100 Chaser. More recently I have picked up my (new to me) 1999 WGNC34. Decided to write up a build thread to try document my journey and any stuff that I come across which could potentially help any other future Stagea owners. I had been searching for a Stagea even though I loved my Chaser; but it wasn't big enough to hold my mountain bike. Mind you I do not have any kids so I wasn't exactly buying the Stagea to fit in baby seats or prams - just always kind of had a weird fetish/fascination with sports wagons. A few of the Stagea guys on the Facebook group advised me to check out a one GV1 Series II located in Adelaide. Previously I never had the balls to go interstate just in case it was a stinky pile of kangaroo crap and I'd have to organise flights to come back. Prior to flying out I did check out a few Stageas here in VIC but they were either in piss-poor condition or were charging through the roof for a still piss-poor condition. (To be noted I was looking for one that already had a R34 GTR conversion done as I figured if I was ever to sell the Chaser it would be for a R34 GTR (queue cliche little boy's wet dream) but apparently the dealer was a little dodgey and the other private owner couldn't find any paperwork and was a little hard to deal with (had zero confidence in flying up to QLD for a potential shit-box Decided to call the Adelaide owner and upon speaking to him I gained I'd say a bit more confidence. This Stagea had been a single Aus owner, loads of receipts for both servicing and parts plus he had owned it for about 4-5 years. [There were two or three that I was considering which were interstate as well however did not seem to have the paperwork that this one did.] It was what I was looking for; factory manual Dayz edition with dual sunroof. My Chaser nor my 180SX never had a sunroof and I missed having one from my old XE10. She had originally been imported by Sinergy/Synergy in Adelaide and lived its entire life there. Further to the receipts it did come with a quite a few juicy fruits and tuned to 259awkw and 673NM. The following mods came with when I brought her back to VIC. HKS 2835 GT PRO S Turbo Custom Turbo Dump Pipe 3" Full Exhaust Blitz FMIC - Return flow Bosch 750cc EV14 Injectors (E85 compatible) ARP 2000 Head Studs Nistune ECU Turbo-Smart BOV Turbo-Smart Boost Gauge Walbro 460 LPH E85 compatible Nismo Adjustable Fuel Pressure Spitfire coilpack HKS Pod Filter Z32 AFM Billet Catch Can Modifications - Wheels RAYS GT-7 2 Piece Forged 17" x 8.5" 235/45 Tyres Modifications - Suspension Bilstein Apparently all servicing, tuning and installation had been carried out by JMS in Adelaide. Pro's: Juicy fruit mods Power is already more than enough for me - I tend to baby my cars Con's: Leaky (wind and water) from rear passenger window Rust underneath passenger wind mirror (known issue with Stageas) Rust on tailgate (known issue with Stageas) Uses way too much fuel for the way I drive - this may be due to a rich tune. Pictures to follow!
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    Last minute email reminder has gone out to all current and new members. Only a couple of spots left for this weekend
  19. 1 point
    Yes, they will cut the old one off then install a new hose on with a new swage fitting. They do this in a tool made for the job, a hydraulic swaging press.
  20. 1 point
    I suggest you get a proper ECU, rather than a Bee*R rev limiter which would eventually blow apart your turbo, drive train and the works. It's merely a terrible hack/interceptor for bangs and wank.
  21. 1 point
    OK, so do some searching on here for the many words I have typed on the subject. Particularly you are looking for mentions of square wave and saw tooth and 0-1v and 0-5v and speedo and sender and so on. What I have written is largely true for R32s and R33s. I do not know anything about the S chassis speedos. I am under the impression that they used electronic senders and so they should work similarly to the R33 type stuff. But they may not. You should use what I have written on SAU as a primer to help get you started understanding how these things can work, and should use it is guidance for what to look for in how the S chassis stuff works.
  22. 1 point
    I going down to lowball a qx80 4xd 50k
  23. 1 point
    Hello Steve. The few cars I've bought interstate I have always had them sent to reputable and widely known GTR workshops for their PPI. I've had one each in WA, NSW and Vic. No garage worth their salt would turn you down and a buyer who won't reasonably let it be inspected is probably hiding something. My advice would be to find out who is the leading couple of Japanese/GTR workshop/tuners and make some calls. People who look at these cars day in day out can spot a dud a mile away. What i will add though, is any PPI is better than none. Best of luck! [emoji16]
  24. 1 point
    get a shorter driver or taller car?
  25. 1 point
    Or... Just squirt some caulking gun adhesive/sealer up in there and push it up until it stays. /ghetto lyfe.
  26. 1 point
    My suggestion was predicated on getting it all back out again to fix it "properly". Got to reinforce the broken substrate.
  27. 1 point
    There's a restrictor? I've never seen one I there across many RB25s unless I've never noticed. Anyhow yes, you want a good vacuum to help move the oil vapours and also help equalize crank case pressure (if any).
  28. 1 point
    Well, 20 attessa flashes is covered on page CH-74, and "faulty harness" is one of the potential causes. But when you look at the terminals involved in that error they are between the attessa relay, attessa ECU and attessa pumps. None of them are in the harness you showed. On CH-66 however, it shows reverse light being an input to the attessa ECU (perhaps it disengages in reverse?) so that short may be your issue. It is powered by fuse #21 and goes via the switch to pin 32 of the attessa ECU I'd start with cutting the ends of those wires flush so they are not shorting to earth to see if that clears the error
  29. 1 point
    Uprev tuned my friend. Stock ecu is tunable
  30. 1 point
    I've just found out that the "7675" I thought I had was actually a 7175 rated to 985hp. Explains why it was so responsive and why my IATs were so high on high boost 😂 The 7275 Gen 2 should be a pretty stout turbo considering its rated at 1200hp and biggest housing offered is a .96 which should mean it will possibly spool a bit quicker than my 1.12 7175? Mine started to max out low 30s so im not sure how well matched the compressor is to the turbine but the newer wheel might make it better. I've now upgraded to a 7685 so we'll see how that goes. Will report back once shes up and running again.
  31. 1 point
    add more dents to make it look like a design feature?
  32. 1 point
    It's not the car, it's the hassleof dealing with the car. No space/hoist/distance to track. I am going to go against the grain and say he should sell it off and buy something he can use/enjoy.
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    My 86 has seat warmers, and, ummmm, nope, that's it. How F'n good are seat warmers. Love the Scirocco, the arse end looks awesome
  35. 1 point
    I think pops are cool when it's the product of a non-contrived or naturally rich AFR but the trend of P-plater Golfs with a Stage 69 fart-shift overrun tune which is spitting fuel into the exhaust for 300m down the street when they lift off at 1500rpms at 35km/h - yeah, that's lame as f**k. Also to your actual question, yeah it's probably illegal - or will at least give the authorities a reason to pull you over and find something illegal.
  36. 1 point
    I would take the car (or photos) to a person who builds approved cages for some quotes to help you decide.
  37. 1 point
    I find rsrr to be very decent in the wet..although that doesn't seem to be the general opinion from what i've read. But yeah no probs with them
  38. 1 point
    Hello all and welcome back to another tutorial. I hope you have been well, if you are reading this, we have a video detailing the process just below, and below that we have a write up for those who prefer some good reading material. Today we will be installing the Option B Blue Seats into the S15 Note: Most seats out of all S Chassy's are compatible with one another. If you have an old 180, 240, s13, s14, s15, then all the seats are interchangeable as the rails remain the same. So you can swap new seats into your old car, or if you have a nice set of aftermarket seats, and you're buying a new silvia to sell your old one, then you can slap them right into the new one. Now let's proceed with the installation. If you have aftermarket seats, then you will need to make sure you purchase S-Chassy rails, the bride rails sit well in the s15 and are a nice option. Step 1: You will need to remove the old seats from the car, this is quite straight forward. You will need a socket set, from memory i believe the size of the bolt was 12mm but i cannot remember exactly, as long as your set ranges from 8mm to 18mm you should be fine Step 2: Locate the 4 bolts on each seat. You will find that there are 2 on the floor under the front of the seat, and when you move the seat forward, there are 2 at the back you will need to remove, one will be on the floor and the other against the transmission tunnel. Step 3: I recommend unscrewing the front bolts until they are barely still in the hole, and can be removed with fingers, then sliding the seat forward to remove the rear ones and then you can reach underneath and undo the front ones. but, this is just how i did it, you find a way that suits you Step 4: Tilt the seat backwards, you may see 1 or 2 connectors under there. Most people will only have 1 connector which is used to check if your seatbelt is plugged in, you will need to unplug this to remove the seat. Now you might be special, and have 2 connectors, this is not very likely, but if you are, shoot me a PM if you're removing your seats and you have that yellow connector you have an extra step that needs to be taken Step 5: Gently remove the seat from the car, without breaking anything or scratching anything. Step 6: You might notice that your new/old whatever seats do not have the seat belt buckles on them, before you put them into the car, it would be a good time to remove the buckle off your old seat, and attach it to your new one. should be the same size bolt which is used to anchor the chair to the ground. Step 7: Gently install the replacement seat into the car and pretty much repeat steps 4 to 1 in reverse order. (Again, for those of you with the yellow plug, PM me for step 4.5) Step 8: Make sure all the bolts are nice and tight because this is what saved you from flying through the windshield at a sudden stop or crash Step 9: You're done! If you enjoyed this tutorial, you should consider checking out my other ones. I have quite a few videos focusing on aesthetics for the s15 and i plan to release a few more in the near future. Please also feel free to check out my channel for video guides and vlogs. Thanks for your time. Peace!
  39. 1 point
    More force. Break the boot if you have to. Fix accordingly. It's the cost of doing something not-so-clever.
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    If it means anything, I paid about $38k USD for my virgin 85km V-spec series 1. I think the 1995 is in high demand due to them becoming legal in the US next year. 1995 GTRs are the last year of the Skylines that can get a CA license plate too, without getting through the expensive OBDII emissions issue. I see the 1995 going for a premium in CA. A couple series 1's hit the auction this past week but not sure what they sold for. Last series 1 grade 4 v-spec I bid on and lost sold for 4,500,000 yen two weeks ago. Low mileage full original no repair history r32's go for 5-6,000,000 Yen here in Japan now.
  42. 1 point
    Left the office at 10 just after I signed my release doc!!
  43. 1 point
    I gotta go with the consensus here... it's a good looking car. It's in amazing condition. Time for a PPI and a deposit. [emoji16]
  44. 1 point
    This one just came available! https://ucar.carview.yahoo.co.jp/model/nissan/skyline-gtr/3446006302UV/ I'm on it. They don't show any photos under the car or the shock towers though...
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    WOW! Its been a few weeks and I’m still searching. It’s proven difficult to find a car that hasn’t had modifications. I’m okay with an exhaust and some cosmetics. If anyone is selling one, please let me know. The lower the kilometres the better.
  47. 1 point
    It is a R32 gtst rb20det that is not being nice to me at the moment🤦🏾‍♂️. Has about a 100km on it. Have an rb30 block and a rb26 head from a r33 that I’m working on. 17” sparco wheels, Aluminum radiator, Type M side skirts, Blitz intake, Apexi coilovers, HKS turbo timer OMP steering wheel NRG quick release Walbro 255 fuel pump Splitfire coil pack
  48. 1 point
    Hello guys and gals! My name is Luis and and I am a proud happy owner of a 1995 BCNR33 Midnight Purple V-spec GT-R. I currently live in Zushi Kanagawa Japan and love driving my car around Yokohama and Tokyo area. I can't wait to do a full restoration on the car in a few years to come. Current mods are: EXPREME Ti TITANIUM exhaust JUNYAN LED tail lights 400R style front lip and side skirt GReddy PRofec boost controller GReddy turbo timer Trust GReddy AIRINX B Type Intake Filter I look forward to keeping you all updated on my future additions to my car.
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    Had this happen after busting a launch in the GT-R. Remove and refit the circlip inside with a new circlip from Nissan. Fixed the problem in the GTR. Done 2 rallys on it since and now it's fine. This also caused an ATTESSA error, as the speed sensor no longer works when the driveshaft pops out.
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