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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/28/2021 in all areas

  1. Picked up my wheels on the way back from Sydney today. OMFG they're fu(#in stunning! I'm in love with an inanimate object... Photos DO NOT do them justice, they look so much better in person. 😍😍 Can't wait to get them on the car even without boots just to get a feel for how they will look.
    8 points
  2. Oh yeah, nearly forgot, here's the catch can with a ball valve on the return to sump. Allows me to go between street mode (no return) to track mode (return to sump).
    6 points
  3. 5r because 5 is a higher number than 4
    5 points
  4. Added a PWR 80mm intercooler & R31 House intercooler insert for the front bumper. Also new wheels arrived just before Xmas. I'm pretty happy with the result.
    5 points
  5. Bumping this thread to keep the dream alive. Finally got cracking on this yesterday. Cut the runners off with a bandsaw and machined the runners flat. The plan is to retain these two sensor locations. But remove the steel insert, cap the end and thread a nipple in which will go to an aftermarket swirlpot. The lower coolant runners will have to be cut and modified after seeing where everything mounts up. Hopped on the computer and measured up the flanges. They have been sent to the waterjet and should be back in a couple days. Ill update when the parts get here. -Jordie
    5 points
  6. Braved the 40 degree heat today and had a crack at extending my lower timing belt cover to suit the taller RB30 block. Suffice to say I was starting from a questionable position... Gave it a sandblast to tidy it up then fit the upper and lower covers to see what I was working with. Made some crude measurements and cut up a piece of rusty sheet metal I've had laying around the shed for 10 years just waiting for a day like today! In reality it was just a heap of trial and error with the getting the angles of the folds straight then just kept measuring, bending and grinding until it looked pretty good. clamped it together with vise grips then tig welded it across the back. I ran out of TIG filler so just fusion welded it. It's ugly as aids but hidden so meh! Had to do a little bit more tidying up to get the top cover to fit but overall, fairly straightforward. Before you mention it, yes I know you can buy one but they're made of stainless rather than mild steel like the rest of it and if I can make it myself for $0 then why not? 🤷‍♂️ Hopefully powdercoat it over the next few days and job done!
    5 points
  7. Shit box update, fabricator chipping away at small tasks before the powder coaters open up to take the subframe and all the bits and bobs. Since the splash guards had been deleted (wasnt my choice but pumped front guards, lipped, etc. there's no way to install the OEM splash guards) I wanted a way to protect the wiring from it being filed down by the tyre on full lock or full suspension travel. Work in progress, but you get the idea. Will have the guard prepped and powder coated black soon.
    5 points
  8. Picked up the parts that were coated, guy did an awesome job, very happy with the results, all the arms are hard race (didn’t like the blue)
    4 points
  9. Updates to the intake department, using an old intake pipe as a guide. That's going too 😁 Yeah I know, could easily reuse it blah blah blah but I want to sell it as a kit with my old intake cover, catch can setup. Just final mock ups before it sees the powder coater with the subframe.
    4 points
  10. Here’s where they both belong you will make more power with better response from pretty much anything from Garrett or precision
    4 points
  11. We also restored this old beast with a Cummins in it great for backyard hits she jams in pretty much anywhere and Didn’t cost a guy is left and right nut to purchase it either! 2500km drive later we ended up bringing a cat home that was freezing to death in -50 too. Stopped for parts and came out to a cat on the diff trying to stay warm. I was blessed to bring her home to the crew! IMG_4066.MOV
    4 points
  12. Got my lower timing cover painted. I think I've lost the art of wrinkle coating but ah well, I like the textured finish it ended up as. The top coming cover is a bit shit but I'm not sure I have the patience to strip it down and redo it at the moment... I'm going to add a timing pointer to the lower cover to make finding top dead centre easier and more accurate.
    4 points
  13. If you need to ask questions like this you need to give your car to a professional
    4 points
  14. I think this proves my point moreso than yours, this is absolutely a more sporting looking vehicle than a M340i sedan. It is boring to you as you've seen it for many years, this is the human condition 😛
    4 points
  15. Saw some SAU history on my morning walk today, memories of all you lot came flooding back too. Happy New Year, peeps.. hope everyone's doing well!
    4 points
  16. Hi guys, im a Brit who’s been using this forum for a while. I’m after some help so thought I’d come on and introduce myself. my name is Paddy and I’m an old man (46)! I own an R34 GTT in cloud white. Had it a good few years and do enjoy driving it! Also enjoy the attention it gets. for those of you who are interested I’ve posted a couple of pics. Not the best pics in the world and they seem to of come out worse than the originals but you get the picture Will post my issues in the relevant forum. I hope you guys can offer some advice. thanks.
    3 points
  17. PRP Tesla motor conversion with BILLET Samsonas adaptor plate. 6 Speed Tesla electric motor.
    3 points
  18. Been slack lately. Have done a lot but achieved nothing if that makes sense? I'm playing around with a few ideas which are time and brain cell destroying... What I have done first- Make an alloy pointer for pin point timing. Will most likely powdercoat it then put a white/silver tip. Powdercoated a few more bits and pieces for installation. Temp fit the exhaust manifold and turbo so I can make the PRP turbo oil drain fit out of the car. Needed to order some new fittings for the block so waiting on those. Had to get the intake plenum flange machined as it was warped from when it was welded up in production. Snapped the dipstick tube off in the block. Don't want to talk about it.... Sump off AGAIN and dipstick tube ordered..... Started rewiring the engine from the engine end also AGAIN, allowing for some additional inputs plus that leads onto the next part I'm still pondering.... So I want to somewhat "wire tuck" the engine bay and there really isn't a nice place to put bulkhead fittings on the drivers side to stop any wires running across the back of the firewall. So...... What I'm thinking is having 2 bulkhead fittings remote mounted under the brake booster and pretty much out of sight that also enable easy removal of the engine (cause GT-R....). I haven't entirely convinced myself it's the right option yet but strongly leaning that way. Feel free to offer your thoughts or rain down the hate! 😅 Made a few templates and trial runs to get it to where I think it would work if I do it- I've pretty much resigned to the fact that I'm painting the engine bay too.... 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️
    3 points
  19. Some testing done by Hypergear between OS and TS.
    3 points
  20. I have a g35-1050 on an rb26, started to wind boost into it and the head lifted. The response so far has been pretty similar to my old gt35 on rb26. 1 bar by 4200/300, so its not amazing by any means. "If" it gets the extra power though over the gt35 it will be a good thing. Taking the chance of head off to add vcam, so hoping this combo will be really responsive. I have been wondering about going t4 split now they are out but will mean going from the .86 I have not to the 1.06 as noted above. Not to mention the cost of manifold, housing, etc.
    3 points
  21. Now installed, fun times as the GKtech manual makes no mention of modifying the subframe brackets/brace plates. Needed to lop off the hump as the GKtech subframe bushes are flat and don't have an indent. Heaps of swearing later, it's in 🥳
    3 points
  22. Had some bits and pieces arrive in the mail over the last week. BMW shifter out of a 6 series, new setrab 25 row cooler with spal, and I ordered new center console and shifter surround as I had cut my factory one up to fit the glide shifter so I sold it with my box. Domiworks gearbox adapter is currently being made up, will have to get a custom flexplate made up as we can't get it to fit with a yellaterra flexplate without making the bellhousing adapter wider. So that and the install board and 8hp connector should be here in the next couple of weeks. Also put new brake lines in a few weeks back now. Wanted to clean up the bay a bit more and hide them/mount them a bit better. Just hoping the route I've taken doesnt get heated up too much by the dump pipe. Glide is also now out and waiting to be picked up by the new owner in a couple of weeks when I get back from Fraser. Hopefully when I get back ill get cracking on interior and mounting the new shifter.
    3 points
  23. I'm hoping to fix it with gearing to start with, well, a bit anyway, if I can get it to shift thru 1-2-3 and not hit a limiter when it is wheel spinning then all is well It has a large PWR trans cooler so trans temps should be fine I do periodical checks on my trans fluid, it is always nice and clean and smells like trans fluid, not that burnt redy brown colour or that burnt chemical smell from cooked trans fluid In other IAT related news: To fit a interchiller on the HTV2300- VX SS combination, and for it to work efficiently, I need to fit thermal spacers, hell, for the HTV2300 to work efficiently even without a interchiller it needs thermal spacers. Not a big issue, you would think, and not that expensive, BUT, and it's a big but and I cannot lie, after alot more measuring up, the blower is now already slightly touching the underbonnet insulation The only way to fit the thermal spacers is to chop out the section under the cowl, see pic This highlights another issue, I was going to go back to a "stock" bonnet, well.....that ain't happening now Lessons learnt: don't get a downward discharge blower like mine, if I was going to do it again I would still go a blower, but an upwards discharge like on the LSA or a Magnuson TL;DR: Dooh, time to get the cutting discs out, chop chop on my loverly new underbonnet insulation and then pinchweld the world.....again LOL
    3 points
  24. It will probably be bought by some douchebag crypto bro who trades monkey jpeg's all day and trying to hype up the next rugpull shitcoin, while his Mrs schlicks to an audience of simps on OnlyFans.
    3 points
  25. Got engine and gearbox in yesterday. Happy with how it looks, waiting on a few sensors to arrive this week so will focus on some fab work that needs to be done.
    3 points
  26. What is happening is it moved back in with me. Weve been separated for 5 years, though some work was being done, up until i quit work last year, and then the workshop it was in got sold, so she'd been hiding elsewhere. Our house settled Friday afternoon, so i got her home Saturday (today)!
    3 points
  27. Finally got the old girl home and ready for battle this up coming summer. Feels like a rocket even at 27ish pounds! Shes built with Aussie pride and thanks to all for the information throughout the years. Im Gunna pump out a catch can/ coolant overflow this week. I was going to run one of my abs catch cans that I sell quite a lot of but for a single turbo setup with that big downpipe there I just don’t like the idea of oil being on that side of the engine bay when it doesn’t have to be. For twins not so bad. Anyways we got a lot of snow so it will be a bit before I actually get to send it again. I’d love to go pound this thing through some snow but I just have to much invested into the old girl.They salt our roads heavy so no gtr power for while. Cheers good chaps the maple leaf warrior will post again soon. IMG_4347.MOV
    3 points
  28. Hello all. My name is Bijan and I live in Melbourne, Australia. I am 39 years of age and have always had a fascination with Japan, its old-world culture (the fact 100 years ago, Japanese were honoured to engage in Seppuku, sometimes referred to as harakiri but now are marketed as Hello Kitty/Cosplay loving childlike adults) and its engineering ingenuity. My Vehicle is a 2011 JDM Nissan Skyline Crossover or USDM Infiniti EX37/QX50. I have had my vehicle for a year and I spent a lot of time researching (as a hobby) on various upgrades. I felt I needed to share this post to give some foresight to those of you who are on that same path. I am a thorough person and with that, I share with utmost confidence. Moving forward.. I have seen recently and over the past many posts relating to system upgrades as it seems Nissan/Inifiniti really dropped the ball when it came to support and back up for the Navigation System Upgrades. NB: Whilst they share a different screen size, this guide also applies to the Nissan/Infiniti FM platforms (meaning a front midship location of the engine, with its centre of mass located behind the front axle centerline, shifting weight to the middle of the car, leaving the front suspension less encumbered). This includes: M Platform: Y50/Y51 NISSAN FUGA/INFINITI M45/M35H/M35 02-13 S50/S51 INFINITI FX35/FX37/FX50/FX30D/QX70 03-17 E51 NISSAN ELGRAND 10-2013 R35 NISSAN GTR 09-16 If I have missed a vehicle, I do apologise. I think it's fair to say you get the general gist of the era (early 2000's for premium cars and ending at around 2016) for the both the USDM and JDM vehicles. I will break up this post into 8 separate parts so it can be easily read. Models Applicable OEM Features Recent Tech Advances XANAVI upgrade GROM VLine/Vline2/Nifty City/AuCar Mark V Comparisons of Current Tech What I went with Final thoughts and why I would do it again Models Applicable: If your car is one of these models, keep reading. Some come with inbuilt Navigation, some didn't. Some with 360' Degree camera view, some didn't. Some came with a built-in HDD music box, some didn't. Some with Bose sound package, some didn't. What they did all share (even though the model number might be slightly different or have a thread on the sides), was that all the screens came with the relatively same looking OEM software and a 7" touch screen. I will split the list into USDM and JDM. Here is the list! USDM: MURANO 09-10 display screen, dash, w/o navigation system; multi-color display (premium package) INFINITI G25 11-12 (Sdn), display screen, w/o navigation system INFINITI QX50 14-16 display screen, (dash), w/o navigation system MURANO 11 display screen, (dash), w/o navigation system; multi-color display (premium package) INFINITI G37 08 display screen, w/o navigation system INFINITI G37 09-13 Cpe, display screen, w/o navigation system INFINITI QX50 17 display screen, (dash), w/o navigation INFINITI G35 07 display screen, w/o navigation system; (4 Dr, Sdn) INFINITI G37 09-13 Sdn, display screen, w/o navigation system INFINITI Q60 14-15 Cpe, display screen, w/o navigation system ARMADA 08-15 display screen, dash, w/o navigation system MURANO 12-14 display screen, (dash), w/o navigation system; multi-color display (premium package), NISSAN PATHFINDER 4dr 08-12 display screen, dash, w/o navigation INFINITI G35 08 display screen, w/o navigation system INFINITI EX37 13 display screen, (dash), w/o navigation system INFINITI Q40 15 (Sdn), display screen, w/o navigation system MAXIMA 09-14 display screen (dash), w/o navigation system; multi-color display JDM Equivalent: Z51 NISSAN MURANO 09-11 display screen, dash, w/o navigation system; multi-color display (premium package) DBA-V36/NV36 NISSAN SKYLINE 250GT 11-12 (Sdn), display screen, w/o navigation system DBA-J50/NJ50 NISSAN SKYLINE CROSSOVER 370GT 09-16 display screen, (dash), w/o navigation system DBA-CKV36/V36/DBA-KV36, NISSAN SKYLINE 370GT 07-14 (Sdn and Coupe), display screen, w/o navigation system CPV35/PV35/HV35/V35 NISSAN SKYLINE 350GT (Sdn and Coupe), 01-07 display screen, w/o navigation system; V37 NISSAN SKYLINE 14-15 Cpe, display screen, w/o navigation system Y62 NISSAN PATROL 08-15 display screen, dash, w/o navigation system Z52 NISSAN MURANO 12-14 display screen, (dash), w/o navigation system; multi-color display (premium package), R51 NISSAN PATHFINDER 4dr 08-12 display screen, dash, w/o navigation A35 NISSAN MAXIMA 09-14 display screen (dash), w/o navigation system; multi-color display Let me know in the comments below if your over it yet 😂 OEM Features: Whether optional or standard, Nissan was the world first to develop alot of these features that are seen in Mercedes, Porsche, BMW etc. Years before zee Germans (everyone always thinks my car is a Porsche Macan - I say to them "Yes the Germans stole it and decided to charge more for less product" - I love love love the VQ37VHR-VVEL/VQ35VHR motor) 360 Camera View Intelligent Cruise Control Voice Activation 3D Navigation Birdeye view Navigation Lane Departure System Forward Collision Warning Automatic Understeer and Oversteer controls Bluetooth connection Voice Activation Steering Wheel Control Music Box with inbuild HDD Recent Tech Advances: This refers to the current world and what we have available now (and quite frankly, far better than what we got) 2.5D IPS or QLED Screens that quite frankly shit all over TFT screens Apple Car Play (and now wireless) Android Auto (and now wireless) Android Automotive, a new OS with its own entire open-source platform separate to Android OS is coming out https://arstechnica.com/cars/2021/05/android-automotive-os-review-under-the-hood-with-googles-car-os/ Bluetooth 5.0 5G WiFi Tyre pressure monitors Better Soundchip software Faster CPU More RAM Memory More Storage Capacity Affordable OBD components Digital (DAB+) Radio XANAVI upgrade: I will give credit when credit is due. These two lads from Estonia have made a pretty penny having worked out over the cold North European winter months... sitting at home with nothing to do, probably purchased an Infiniti or Nissan and thought "this is crap" So what they did was tweak things a little. Smart. Whilst I may not be as Tech Savvy, I am a Real Estate Agent and one thing I do know is if I smell Bullshit. If Stereo/Navigation/Infotainment system upgrades had a hierarchy, Xanavi is the undisputed King of Bullshit. You are paying these guys for software knowledge and know-how. Whenever I go to a new restaurant, I order the most basic and staples they offer, if they can't get it right (for example a Margherita Pizza at a Woodfire Pizza Shop), there is no way in hell their more complex offerings are going to be better. Master the basics, proceed with the rest. The most basic of any software company is how they present their... tech. Right? https://xanavi.net/ "We have a lot of happy customers at all the world as we provide our services remotely regardless of your location We always provide a warranty, support from A to Z and we perform our work as for our personal car P.S. OUR SITE IS IN THE DEVELOPMENT BECAUSE OF IT SOMETIMES IT MAY NOT WORK OR WORK WEIRD" Yeah, no thanks. They ask you to send your core unit (postage you pay for) and send you out a screen someone else donated to them. The language upgrade and simplicity of the OEM suite for a computer programmer would be.. childsplay compared to complex UX and UI developers have to code with when for example, making an app for an iOS device. They used to charge folks $700 USD 😳 Some people in countries like Australia, NZ, USA.. they have a license agreement and also charge through the roof still to this day (albeit a bit cheaper). Don't get me wrong, this is what I had put on when I received my car.. it works. But it's still a piece of crap. Now... its just in English. And hey, you might be a purist and want to keep the eye-gouging centre turn knob (I admit at night the purplish/blue hue is nice), then go for it. I am just making you aware of what they are doing and why it cost nowhere near as much as it does (yes I know it takes expertise to crack software, but it's not like they were hacking the AFP or CIA). To buy a refurbished screen will cost you: https://www.buyautoparts.com/buynow/2010/infiniti/g37/center_module_screen/18-30071_r So whilst it works, I won't deny this.. Their business model has absolutely no overheads. What a dream come true. SCAM 2.0: Xanavi and Co's Latest Scam: https://www.facebook.com/commerce/products/4253208614806791/?ref=mini_shop_storefront&referral_code=mini_shop_page_card_cta $1100 on an SD card 😂 Here is where they are ripping the idea from: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003697686640.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.48972ba2i2uKO0&algo_pvid=5358f7df-a9ed-4282-a307-03d9e1c153e7&algo_exp_id=5358f7df-a9ed-4282-a307-03d9e1c153e7-6&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"12000026845563217"}&pdp_pi=-1%3B85.31%3B-1%3B-1%40salePrice%3BAUD%3Bsearch-mainSearch You're welcome, I just saved you $1000. Xanavi.... Amateurs🙄 GROM VLine/Vline2/Nifty City/AuCar Mark V: Ok, now we get onto the lesser knowns. GROM VLine: https://gromaudio.com/store/vline/nissan-infiniti-2010-2017-vline-carplay-android-auto-infotainment-system-navigation-upgrade.html Price: $659.95 USD Verdict: Just wow. They send you a that looks like it came out of the 80's (albeit you don't have to send your screen in like Xanavi) and basically, all they do is upload open-source software (remember guys, open-source means free.) Onto a cheaply made box, throw a grey sticker on it saying VLINE (that's so smart, it's sexy) and throw is a wiring harness. What they are doing is basically this https://www.ijert.org/research/dual-boot-operating-systems-in-smartphone-IJERTV2IS90547.pdf with outdated hardware which is saturated on the market and can pick up for next to nothing (3GB Ram). Then.. the kicker... Android Oreo 8.1 (heavily outdated but with 3GB Ram, you can't run much else) is completely open-source! !!! Yeah, no thanks. Nifty City: https://www.niftycity.shop/collections/infiniti Price: $1,139.00 USD + extra for peripherals Don't miss their January SALE! 😂😅 AuCar Mark V: https://aucarauto.com/product/aucar-tesla-android-9-aucar-infiniti-q50-android-module-integrated-with-intouch-carplay/ Price: $849 USD + extra for peripherals Nothing says this is a premium "Beats by Dr.Dre" image than a slick-talking, African-American with Rap in the background driving with the seatback. So cool. I am sold. (And please, I am by no means making any racial slur my friends, I am a migrant myself and quite frankly don't care what race, gender, sexual orientation anyone is as long as they aren't a shit person! But you know, Hip Hop, Rap, Bling Bling.. it sells right? 😅) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UnAJlgdZ0So Honourable Mention: The Mark V moniker makes it sound very British and very premium. Don't get me wrong, it works, but the internals are outdated. You want to buy something that's future-proofed. Not yesteryear tech. 4Gb Ram/64 GB Memory. Better but not good enough. Comparisons of Current Tech: So, as of writing Friday the 7th of January, 2022, there are a few options out there. However, at the time of writing it seems most manufacturers will upgrade the units every 6 months with new CPU's and every few years or so with the new Android Update. As it stands, the best specs money can buy right now are (Drum Roll): 2.5D Screens (meaning they are curved like your smartphone) QLED Screens - Superior Colours, blacks, brightness and viewing angle. I haven't seen one yet that isn't 2.5D Android 11 CPU - Octa Core 2.0ghz Audio Amplifier - TDA7851 EQualiser - DSP 48EQ 8GB Ram 128Gb Storage What I went with: After hours, days, weeks, of research. This is what I went with. This was the best choice with the options I had and the look I wanted. I wanted to keep that gaudy old clock, call me sentimental, but it's a nice centrepiece at night and adds a bit of old-world nostalgia. So I didn't opt for the 13.1 or 12.3" vertical "Tesla Screen" and.. no one was selling a tesla screen upgrade with higher-end internal components. So that made my choice easier. Head Unit: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003717469637.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.5d6d58cbhbfkdC Price: $525.42 AUD Not a QLED but an ISP which is 1 era of technology lower and 2 eras of technology higher than the current Nissan TFT screen. 2nd fastest processor: 1.8 GHZ octa-core The nicest looking UI stock They had the Screen Fascia Kit I wanted. Plain and simple. 8Gb Ram/128GB Memory Accessories: OBD2 Scanner: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000790032478.html?spm=a2g0o.9042311.0.0.27424c4djHUv3j - $6.72 AUD 360 720HD Sony Lens Camera System: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001859062000.html?spm=a2g0o.9042311.0.0.27424c4djHUv3j - $78 AUD 8 Node Parking Sensor: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000829825263.html?spm=a2g0o.9042311.0.0.27424c4djHUv3j - $56 AUD Armrest USB extender: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003048393268.html?spm=a2g0o.9042311.0.0.27424c4djHUv3j - $13.70 AUD Dab+ Radio and Antenna: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001369975344.html?spm=a2g0o.9042311.0.0.27424c4djHUv3j - $43.63 AUD External fit (no need for Tyre repair shop) Tyre Monitoring system: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001369631215.html?spm=a2g0o.9042311.0.0.27424c4djHUv3j - $23.33 AUD SD Card 128GB for DVR camera (Samsung EVO overstock): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001862551935.html?spm=a2g0o.9042311.0.0.27424c4djHUv3j - $11.48 AUD 4k Front, Internal and Rear Dash Cam/DVR/ADS: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003208833917.html?spm=a2g0o.9042311.0.0.27424c4dsOzi4n - $198.26 AUD Total Cost: $1102.15 Including Import tax and delivery. So that has basically turned my 7" inch, outdated and painfully odd to operate with no extra featured Nissan Skyline Crossover into a fully upgraded, highly rated (the Dashcam is voted one of the best in the world) highly positive reviewed and highly researched, 2022 powerhouse. I will update you with my setup and how it looks as I am waiting for a few more items to arrive. Final thoughts and why I would do it again: Now there are better components out there for other cars eg: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002889014765.html with a QLED screen, however, they were not willing to source the fascia kit for me as I wanted the one that goes with the unit I purchased above. There was this Fascia kit: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Nissan-radio-fascia-kit-for-2013_1600249151912.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.1a6a3e5fI8JHb2 but that glossy black plastic looked way too cheap with a 9.7" screen, however, no one was offering a high spec vertical 9.7" screen, only 9". Then there was the Tesla Screen option.... however, sometimes too big is... too much. This is why I like the size of my SUV. It's big enough, but not a moving fortress. They will ask you for photos of your current unit OEM software, and photos of the rear of the unit and its wiring harness: 7' Screen? Simple: https://www.ebay.com/itm/175075436610?hash=item28c34f2842:g:FuQAAOSwEFxhwgbY as an example of mine. "Just google Infiniti G36 Infotainment system ebay" Anywho, the companies I have spoken to are quite helpful. If you really need support, make a friend from China 😃 and jump on WeChat. They will blast through it (not that I have had any issues). What you pick and choose is up to you, just remember the formula. Android upgrades every couple of years, this means hardware will increase indefinitely and 2) CPU/RAM/Storage upgrades happen every 6-12 months. This post will serve you now and into the future and I hope I made life a little easier. Time to complete Post: 6 hours... I think I deserve a beer!
    3 points
  29. Absolutely. I have 100mm PVC pipe into stock R32 airbox. PVC has bellmouth facing brake duct in GTR bar. Would not contemplate any other intake that backed away from those properties (cold air, only sourced from outside engine bay, rammed in when at speed). Keeping the density as high as possible into the turbo intake is just as important as keeping the density as high as possible after the intercooler. Bashing a 110mm hole down through the inner guard behind the headlight felt like a big undertaking when I did it back in ~2000 though.
    3 points
  30. 4R = non ball bearing T04Z 5R = non ball bearing T51R So buy neither.
    3 points
  31. More parts ready to be picked up after cerakote
    3 points
  32. (Stealing this from another forum) Here is an interesting conversion job on what looks to be a Rover 200 coupe. Resolution isn't great, but the bodywork on the rear looks pretty good, at least???
    3 points
  33. So rolls didnt happen. Got my car all done, aircon regassed, alignment, wheels balanced. Took it home to check everything the next morning, opened the radiator and there was some oil in the rad cap. Dropped the oil and there wasnt any water so all was good. Dropped the rad and it was a bit of a milkshake party. End up pulling the motor out that night. Still not sure where the oil was pushing into the water. Will get the head all checked out and decided to sell my cams and go to a set of kelford 270/274in 280ex 10.5mm lift. The block had a couple of cracks on the deck but nothing that I could see would mix the oil into the water. Motors now stripped down, just need to pick up another block and take it to my builder and get it all checked/machined/assembled. New cams should be here sometime this week so I'll be able to send the head away to get checked and setup for the new cams. I have also sold my powerglide in order to fund a zf 8hp swap with goals to make the car more streetable and comfy to drive while still being able to maintain some drag racing functionality. We'll get the car back up and running and leave it on wastegate and focus on getting the box setup perfectly then we will add some power to it and see how it goes. Goal is to just drive it a lot more and be able to take my family out in it and cruise on the highway in 8th gear at 2000rpm while remaining fairly quiet. I have ordered shifter, TCU, domiworks adapter and bits and pieces and a new 25row setrab oil cooler/spal fan setup.
    3 points
  34. Applicable for C34 Stageas and other models that use plastic retainer clips in the power window regulator. So a few years back one of the plastic clips (pictured) in the power window regulator shit itself and I was unable to wind the rear window back up without wiggling it back in but inevitably it would fall out again. Bad for keeping the weather and thieves out Looking around online I wasn't able to find replacement clips (not listed as a separate part) and the Ford/Holden ones I saw didn't look like they were going to work. Couldn't find a replacement regulator at the time either and didn't have the cash for one anyway because of personal reasons. Below is the fix I came up with and it has worked fine for me for the past 4-ish years. I don't have pictures of everything I did at the time. The attached pictures I took today while replacing the regulator which should give you the right idea. Note that I only decided to replace the regulator because I found a replacement in good condition. The repaired regulator worked fine except for making a small clunk when initially going up or down. Hopefully this should get you out of a jam until you can find a replacement or someone starts 3D printing some replacement plastics *hint hint* in which case this guide might still be helpful depending on how the plastics are meant to be installed. Steps: Remove the power window regulator from the car. Bend the tab at the rear of the regulator out of the way using pliers, multigrips or similar so you can pull the regulator apart. Take note of how it goes together first - obvs. Find an appropriate sized metal washer and press it on in a vice. Some filing to increase the inner diameter and heat may be required to help it along. NOTE I would recommend packing on some nylon washers/retaining clips/something to keep the metal washer as far away from the regulator as possible and to ensure it sits reasonably snug in the channel that it slides in. The outer diameter of the washer I used was a bit smaller than the channel and therefore clunked a little when going up and down but it worked. Remove any debris from the channel that that plastic clips slide in and reassemble. Lube appropriately if desired and bend the metal clip back up. Test operation prior to reinstalling in the car. You don't want it binding or falling apart. Reinstall the power window regulator to the car and enjoy. Cheers 🍻
    3 points
  35. If you can get a 35-1050 with a twin scroll housing they’d be a pretty awesome choice, I’ve got a 6466 and was very happy with it until the block broke and am in the process of building an engine and going to put it back on
    3 points
  36. Finished installing bushes last night, I found it easier with the vice as I couldn't get nice angles in the press and there was too much damaging occurring to the paint as I tried (had to touch that up). Put the hub in and fitted knuckle to the car, forgot the balljoint nut was only finger tight and I do not have a 21mm spanner, only socket so pulled it all apart again to get at the nut lol The little black inserts are a bit fiddly and like to pop out when fitting the arms, also noticed i had a loose nut on the camber arm, just a locking nut though and the assemble can't move unless rotated or strips the thread so it was fine. I am tossing up if I buy some gktech grip knuckles for the front from a mate of mine. I already have high misalignment tie rod ends and extended ball joints for roll centre correction but apparently these knuckles, + what i have getst he geometry basically back to stock when lowered - $600 with some used hubs and some brake duct mounts modded on to them... I also sold the dash/interior to a handsome gentleman and his patient partner, i did my best to convince her he needed more shed space too. Johnny got me the hook up on some rear rotors, popped one on to have a look, nice!
    3 points
  37. I got told yesterday the pistons have arrived and will hopefully see some progress with the engine soon
    3 points
  38. the car arrived in Tassie a while ago and I've been working on it. there was more drift damage than I first throught, but after many hours with a porta power it's straight again. I got some dry ice to remove the sound deadner, wish I'd used it years ago it's so easy. Finally this week I made a start on the roll cage
    3 points
  39. Another hot day in the shed yesterday. Over 40 degrees in the shed so I reckon I've lost a few kgs in sweat the last few days. Looking trim for Stereo... (the kids will get it....) Rather than be productive on the car I decided to make my K-Frame/Engine stand mobile.... Added permanent legs and caster wheels that will make it a bit easier to move around once the engine is sitting on it. Once I'm ready to bolt up the tranny I'll make another little dolly to roll around under the transfer case and support the back. I'll make it out of a spare bottle jack that I've got so I can adjust the height. Anyway, boring shit but at least I can say I didn't waste all of new years day... I've started the year off well in terms of actually doing something in the shed so we'll take that as a positive! Whacked one of the new wheels on to check fitment and although hard to guage properly without a tyre I think it looks amazing! Spacing relative to the guards looks perfect.
    3 points
  40. A bit more progress before the end of the year. Manifold fully welded and wastegate added. It didn't quite fit where I initially thought it would but I made something work. The hot spots on the manifold are not from welding (not that my welds are fantastic!). They are from using the torches to move the runners back where they needed to be after welding. Manifold is now done! Fits with PS, AC, ABS, and no cutting the hood. What a chore. Huge props to those that do this all day everyday. This is only my second manifold and my first with a true collector. I wish I did this more often so I could get better. For the charge pipe I wanted to go through the factory hole and fill in the one I made for the first turbo setup. Cut the v-band off the comp housing and tacked on a Plazmaman clamp. It's tight between the housing and the AC lines so I had to cut about 1/4" off each clamp flange and even with a donut it barely clears. I'll do another clamp flush with the factory hole so the entire pipe can come out and it's not in the way when working on the car. Second section of the donut is just held up for reference; not a final piece.
    3 points
  41. Was back in the garage today. Started off with the installation of my Nitto head drain. Installation is pretty straight forward. Knocked the welch plug out. Drilled 13/64 and tapped M6x1. Cleaned it out thoroughly afterwards. As per the instructions, I put oil resistant gasket maker on the drain and thread sealant on the bolts and tightened it up. Lastly my driveway is on a slant so I cannot push cars up into the garage. I installed a winch in the garage to pull in any cars that can't move under their own power (engineless, etc.) or that are equipped with summer tires in the winter. Skyline got stuck in the driveway last winter when I pulled it out to do an oil change on my daily driver... When it came time to drive it back in, tires would just spin on the ice/snow. Had to wait 2 days, and get two of my neighbors to help push it in. I don't want this happening again... I had to weld up a bracket and punch in 4x studs into the cement but came out great. I'll be using my lawn tractor battery as it serves no purpose in the winter.
    3 points
  42. I see what you did there.
    3 points
  43. 3 points
  44. Agreed. With so many options of what it could be (Washer fluid, blinker fluid, tinniest meth injection kit, etc.) it would have been great to be able to trace it one foot further to its destination but unfortunately OP's trunk must not open.
    3 points
  45. They’re like most specialty spanners ( S, C, stubby, ratcheting, high offset, etc) they’re shit for 95% of normal spanner jobs and absolutely essential for the 5% of situations where nothing else works. THAT is why you buy them, not for the presumption that 1 spanner fits all. I have a stupid amount of different spanner sets now of which I will probably only use about 10% of but I’m sure you’ve been in a situation where nothing fits and it sucks balls. I’ve wasted hundreds of dollars to avoid that incredibly rare situation but I think I just like collecting spanners! 😂 I should take a pic of all my different sets as I think I might even scare myself once I laid them all out….
    3 points
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