Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/21/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Oh wow, I'm an absolute nugget of a human. Yeah okay, it's wrong then. Looks stock in the chart as per what you guys have said.
  2. 2 points
    No, Doug DeMuro is an American PranK.
  3. 1 point
    Im very far behind on starting this build thread, but better late than never. While stationed in western Tokyo (2013-2015) I was able to fulfill a childhood dream of owning a Nissan Skyline GTR. Made the purchase of the car as a reward to myself after making promotion. This is how it sat when purchased in October 2013. What It Came With: Engine: Greddy FMIC Greddy Radiator HKS hard pipe intercooler set MINES ECU Straight pipe from turbo back Suspension: Tein Adjustable Type-TS CruiseMaster Coilovers Nismo Arms and Rods Omori Factory Re-inforced Chasis Nismo Front/Rear Stabilizers 17x9 and 255 40 17 all around Interior: Nismo 230/km dash Greddy Turbo Timer Greddy Oil Pressure and Boost Guage Exterior: Nismo Body Kit (front bumper with vents, N1 bonnet lip and trunk lip) JUN front lip LED Tail Lights The car was in running condition when i got it but it needed some work to get it drive properly. - The clutch was bad. The seller knew it was twin discs, but not sure of the brand in it. - One of the stock turbos in it were bad. The seller had two R33 GTR stock turbos that came with the car. - The LED taillights were of Pinkish color now and only two were working. After saving up and having the car sit for a month or so, I was ready to start buying parts to get this car on the road. I went to UpGarage near the base to find a replacement clutch. Something simple and used, just to see what kinda clutch is in it and to get it operational. I grabbed a HKS Twin isc clutch and was on the lift the following weekend. After dropping the transmission, we noticed it was an OS Giken Twin Disc (TS2CD). After finding this gem, I decided it would be better to buy a rebuild kit for the clutch and put the Giken back in. RHDjapan was able to get me the rebuild kit in less than a week. Once the rebuild kit came in, work was getting more and more hectic, I was not going to be able to do the work myself. Since the turbos needed to be swap too, i found this to be the perfect time to get both the clutch and turbos done. You also get a nice glimpse of the replacement wheels I put on it. Advan RGII - 17x9 +30. The offset wasn't ideal but it gave the car a better look IMO and I could NOT pass up the deal that was offered. I finally got the car back and it was able to boost and shift as it was supposed to. Still wouldn't pass the inspection due to the LED taillights not being fully functional, CV Boot on the front passenger, and the brakes pads and rotors were shot. I got on YAJ and ordered a set of stock taillights and shopped for the R33 GTR Brembos. Was able to source a front set for an amazing price with rotors and pads included. Back to the shop it went. I got it to pass inspections and was completely satisfied with driving it every now and then. I didn't drive the car for weeks at a time due to work and not wanting to break it before getting it back to the States. Nothing to write home about happened upgrade wise with the car until it was time to get it ready for the trip across the Pacific. Here's me at Yokohoma Bay dropping the car off. April 2015. I was stationed in New Mexico next and the car was being delivered to Dallas, TX. The car made it and was ready for pick up in June 2015 After getting it registered stateside I was ready to start adding small things here and there. First thing I got was a Boss hub kit and NRG quick release for the steering wheel. I had a used Nardi wheel that I got while in Japan begging to be installed. Also i bought the Viper 2-Way Security System {5706V} (Remote Start System) and installed it so the motor would be warmed up by the time I came out to drive it. Started doing more research on the MINE'S ECU in the car and knew it would be smart to buy an aftermarket ECU and get it tuned for USA pump gas. So i got on YAJ and found a used PowerFC L-Jetro w/ hand controller at a decent rate. Looked around for boost controllers and the GReddy Profec OLED was what caught my eye, so i grabbed one from RHDJapan. Searched and searched for someone who was able to tune this ECU and have a dyno. Finally found someone in El Paso, texas about an hour away from where I was stationed in New Mexico. Once the parts came in from Japan I scheduled a date and I hit the road to Texas. We were able to get it tuned, but was not able to get an actual HP number due to the Boost Controller not operating correctly. Noticed very quickly the difference in response as well as actual fuel economy improved. The New Mexico dessert heat is quite different from the heat in Tokyo so i thought an oil cooler and Oil filter relocation kit was needed. I sourced one via a FB group and had it installed by some random shop in Alamogordo, NM. It was a dumb move on my part. This is where the trouble for the car began. They installed the oil cooler and relocator, but they didnt use the steel braided lines I brought it to them with. They used thick Motorcycle hoses that had no flex. The car developed an oil leak at the cooler (they used -8An instead of the -10AN) and it never was the same since. Around this time, I had decided to leave the military so i was not in a position to shell out funds for parts. So i would drive the car whenever the urge came, but I was also having to add a quart of oil here and there since I couldn't pay to get it fixed at that moment.
  4. 1 point
    wow, you're like manifold Yoda haha
  5. 1 point
    Did the conversion today and I took some pics as the original images are down. Required parts. What the drive looks like - note this one *came out* of the gearbox (didn't know what was in there). I didn't get any pics but I used a combo of a (n eventually plastic coated) cutting wheel, carbide cutter and a carbide burr on the dremel. You can see remnants of the removed black gear in the bottom right of the image. Recommend you melt it off instead, it'll be a lot quicker and less worried about damaging the spline on the shaft but messier. What I didn't get was a picture of the flat I cut into the splined shaft. Cut 12mm down from the edge to match the new gear, or cut the flat from the gear. Either way works. Note the gear shaft offset from the body. Also note the notch in the centre bottom, above thumb nail. Note the difference in gear size. The shaft housing needs to be rotated 180 degrees to make room for the bigger gear. The body will spin in the gearbox but you'll need to cut a new slot for the retainer. Original retainer location in relation to notch. *NEW* retainer location in relation to notch which needs to be made. It's mirrored around the notch. Approx 3.5mm deep x 20mm tall and 4mm away from the edge (from memory). Cut it with three hacksaw cuts. Could use a dremel or a square file instead. I didn't neaten it up at all as I had already cut a tiny bit too far. New gear on. I applied a bit of araldite to the flat area just to be safe. Don't use superglue as I think it may melt the gear. Notice I started cutting the flat out of the gear, before realising I could cut the shaft instead (and would provide better location on the shaft, not that I imagine there's much force on it anyway). Note, the gear doesn't bottom out on the housing like the black gear. Top of gear is flush with the shaft (as shown in an earlier photo). Going into the gearbox - if the gears are meshed, it should slide up to here with minimal effort. Note the location of the notch in the speedo drive body (should be pointing down). All done!
  6. 1 point
    Live in Norfolk, Virginia, work at Performance Innovations in Hampton. More than happy to work on any Skyline and their cousins.
  7. 1 point
    DKF. Designer Kustom Fashion. Sounds bad.
  8. 1 point
    R33's had the battery in the boot and the battery holder bolts straight into the r34 the holes are already there. I had to modify the bracket for the ecu behind the battery though to make it fit. Here is a pic but it is not finished.
  9. 1 point
    No. A wastegate can either stick open or closed or anything in between, plus a bunch of other unwanted behaviours. So you can either have uncontrolled boost, or barely any boost or any combination of symptoms. A BOV doesn't usually fail such that it just opens up and dumps boost. They do leak, and if it's bad enough you might lose a few pounds from the top end.
  10. 1 point
    Using moly lube on standard headbolts is not a good idea. You will overstretch them if you torque them to factory specs. Just use oil.
This leaderboard is set to Sydney/GMT+11:00