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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/05/2010 in all areas

  1. 21 points
    First and only Price Drop - $700 Rims are mint with near new 215/40/18 Kumho KU31's
  2. 19 points
    Can you confirm what it is from the numbers stamped on it (shown in the pics?) at all. I am not 100%. The muffler bits have that blue titanium shine but the pipe section just looks like s/s?
  3. 14 points
  4. 13 points
    MissGTR34 intro Hey just doing my intro, Erin from melbourne GTR34 white XEY483 So hey, ive only had my gtr for 9months still loving every second of it. Looking forward to reading some handy info and help when i need it CHEERS! -Erin
  5. 13 points
    Hi All, First and foremost, I am overwhelmed with the support shown from SAU NSW Members and friends. I thank you all from the bottom of my heart for even thinking of me and my family to organise an event to support us. That is something that I will never forget and appreciate greatly. This community has given me many great times in previous events, long lasting friendships and much more. I can now add this support to that list. Unfortunately I hadn’t kept up with the events forum in recent times and missed that this was on even though it was in my own backyard! But it looks like it was a great success and everyone had a great time. Congratulations to the organisers. My daughter Olivia is an amazing young girl that takes everything that's thrown at her in her stride. I have learnt a lot of things from her during this time. Patience, caring, acceptance and many other great qualities I would not have had it not been for her. She is currently in her 4th month of Chemotherapy and has 2 months to go. As explained in the first post, Olivia had surgery to remove her kidney tumour and a couple of weeks later started radiation and chemotherapy. Looking on the bright side, we have a beautiful 4yr old girl to cuddle at night and to that end we thank Sydney Children’s Hospital, the Oncologists, Surgeons, and Nurses for their amazing hard work. Without them she would be here to brighten our days. I am sure most of you have somehow been touched by the disease that is cancer. Some more personally than others. As a father, I sometimes struggle to understand how and why a child could be diagnosed with cancer, but the same feelings as a father help me cope with the events that have unfolded over the last 5 months. 600 parents of children get told each year in Australia that their child has cancer. While that number seems small, it’s 600 too many. Your support is amazing and greatly appreciated. TL:DR Thanks a bunch guys! Jason & Family.
  6. 12 points
    Dinner this weekend with the legend himself and his former boss. Oh it's good to be an SAUNSW member There is a handful of seats available from a few guys in the army not being able to make it (being sent away), so check the NSW Events area!
  7. 11 points
  8. 11 points
    Whoops, yes i did mean catch can, corrected it now. Yes i understand that now. The two goals are to reduce the amount of oil entering the head, and equalize crankcase pressure. The oiling issue is solved by selecting the appropriately sized oil restrictor/s that vary with each engine set up. What must be taken into account is the head that you are using, and the oil pump that you are using. Heads with hydraulic lifters (IE R33 RB25) require more oil in the head than heads with Hydraulic lifters (RB26, RB25 NEO) and as such larger restrictors (IE providing less oil restriction) are used in those engines. Here is a slight update on the original Skydneykid table created way back in 2006. It is pretty much exactly as it was just more user friendly and now includes the NEO. I left the RB20 off the table as nobody seems to be interested in them RE oil control issues, questions about them were asked nowhere near as frequently as RB25/26. They can be added back in if you wish. The other issue is that of crankcase pressurization. The steps taken to achieve this are drilling out the oil returns in the block to 10mm, and giving them a chamfered edge to promote oil drainage. To displace the oil that is in the head, air must be moved into the head allowing the oil to drain (I am going to use the 'turning a drink bottle upside down' analogy here even though its not 100% accurate i think it gives everyone a good idea of what is going on) Increasing the oil drain cross-sectional area by drilling not only promotes oil drainage but gives air a larger path to travel up into the head, which increases drainage yet again. A Combination of these two mods is a very good start to sorting out the problems associated with RB oil control, and should be the starting point for anyone looking into this. A good catch can setup will help even further by acting as an equalizer for crankcase pressure and catching any oil that would otherwise be making its way back into the engine. I will use the method that KiwiRS4T has mentioned and others seem to be using with success. Both cam covers are individually run to a catch can mounted at approximately battery height in the engine bay. 2x -10AN fittings are welded onto the sump above the oil level in the sump. One is run to the highest point in the catch can, and the other run to the lowest point. The catch can can then be either vented to atmosphere, or run to another catch can that does the final oil/air separation before being piped back into the turbo intake. All of the things mentioned above should be supported by other basic modifications such as Baffling in the cam covers, whether it be mines baffles or something similar Trapdoors in the sump to keen a consistent oil pickup Increasing the capacity of the sump Using an oil cooler Even better control of oil would be done by having A Nissan N1 oil pump, or any aftermarket item (Nitto, Tomei etc) Fitting your standard nissan on N1 pump with billet gears (Reimax, Nitto etc) Fitting a crank colllar to your crankshaft to widen oil pump gear engagement Running an ACCUSUMP accumulator to control split second oil pressure loss and for the benefit of pre-oiling Pics below of what SimonR32 has done with his catch can, which is what i was trying to explain in the diagram above. If you cannot be bothered reading through the entire thread then read these posts, as i feel that they are some of the most important in the thread to get an understanding of what is actually happening inside the engine, which in turn is able to help us create a way in which to solve these problems. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page-49#entry6798597 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page-49#entry6798648 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page-50#entry6929479 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page-53#entry7157413 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page-54#entry7159347 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page-54#entry7181463 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page-55#entry7208766 All the information in this above guide is purely my own thoughts/experiences on the whole RB oil control issue. Please do not take it as gospel and follow it to the letter. As always do your own research and come to the conclusion of what will suit you best based on your own setup. Big thanks to everyone who posted in this thread.
  9. 10 points
    Love this pic of my 34 and Mark's Civic Type R at SAUNSW Meet last Saturday. Another great capture by God_Speed Photography. DSC_6668G 1920 by Matt Tung-Yep, on Flickr Another one... DSC_6689G 1920 by Matt Tung-Yep, on Flickr
  10. 10 points
    "OFF (to a good home today) with the 'old'." "ON with the 'new'." ...says the lucky man.
  11. 10 points
    Got the car back yesterday. Took a pic to celebrate.
  12. 9 points
    Your Brakelever looks like this? Time for an update! you need a sheet of smooth (automotive) leather, some Needles and waxed Thread. I get this from Aliexpress for less than 3$. First pull out the Metal Ring a little bit then cut the stitches And , surprise, the original isn`t genuine Leather! Took the original as a pattern for the new . Attention !!!! It isn`t a square. To get a perfect fit , cut 2mm narrower. Now do the punctures 3mm from the edge and 5mm wide You start like this. The thread has to be 4-5 times longer than the leather!!! To make it easier use a tube, keep attention that the cross of the tread , up and down, are all in the same way Now you can place the Leather to the Lever and then pull the seam tight do this with a crochet hook You can`t do this at once. Make 2-3 repeats! Keep an eye that the alignment is correct and the holes are at the same level. At the End .....the tricky Part. You have to put the Leather under the rabbet and fix it with the metal ring. The Leather has to be long enough but then it has a lot of wrinkles, is it to short it won`t be fixed Tricky. But in the End I´m very satisfied. A lot better than the old imitation Leather. I hope this is helpful for some!
  13. 9 points
    Car has been great, my TRUST oil cooler kit arrived from Japan and I spent last weekend installing it! The only problem I ran into was that I ran out of space running the lines due to my turn flow cooler getting in the way, but I used my imagination and made it work. While I waited for the kit to arrive I bought an AN spanner (china specialé) and a tube of Aeroflow thread lube/sealant, just the usual AN supplies really. Test fit At this stage I released the front mount was going to have to come out.. This is the bit where I needed to use my imagination, the lines looked to hang really low, but after moving the slack from under the rad support back into the engine bay it hugs very tight and doesn't go lower than the pipework which is ok, I've also covered it in the protective covering provided. While it was all apart I installed a pair of great condition xenon headlights to replace my old and many a time modified headlights which was very welcome! Once that was all done I let it idle for a little while and get up to temp while checking for leaks and keeping a close eye on the oil level which seemed pretty spot on. Confident in my work I took it for a test drive for a good hour with no issues Very happy!
  14. 9 points
    I just had to take it all home and mock it up. Looks unreal!
  15. 9 points
    put it on 98, and turned the boost up to 25psi. just shy of 810hp@wheels (pretty much right on 600rwkw) e85 had retarded fuel economy.. time will tell with 98 and stock primaries. made 636 on 15psi stock primary injectors/1000cc secondaries (4 bar base pressure) it got raped on the dyno today. burned though 60L of 98.... ned to gap the plugs or turn up the dwell on the coils. (abit fluffy though the middle on 25 psi) should be fun at roll drags
  16. 9 points
    Had to trim a little bit to get the hoses on to the top hat and also ran all new wiring for the 2 fuel pumps and fuel gauge and after the cover was put back on with all the wiring tapped up it looks like it was done by Nissan
  17. 9 points
  18. 9 points
  19. 9 points
    I have decided to put together a quick review of my brake upgrade as I’ve received quite a lot of interest and have received many questions regarding them. So here it is, a quick overview of the kit, parts I chose and why, issues I came across when installing, and my final thoughts after getting the car on the track. Company/Product: Alpha Omega Racing / Evo 350mm Brembo front brake adaptor kit Price: $370 plus postage Links: http://www.alphaomegaracing.com http://alphaomegaracing.com/p/50/c/73/Z33/ALPHA-OMEGA/Evo-350mm-Brembo-Brakes-Adapter-Kit-Version-2.html Purpose: The kit allows you to fit front Brembo calipers from an Evo 5-9 (all the same) with Evo X rotors (350mm) to your R32/R33/R34/S13 (5 stud)/S14/S15/Z32/Z33. What’s included: - Pair of CNC machined 7075 billet alloy caliper adaptors - High tensile bolts and washers - Installation instructions (with pictures) What else you need: - Mitsubishi Evo 5/6/7/8/9 Brembo front calipers and brake pads - Mitsubishi Evo X front rotors (350x32mm) - Custom brake lines Alpha Omega Racing is able to provide all of the above parts as well as parts and services (labour) for rebuilding calipers and even fitting if you are not comfortable doing so yourself. I personally opted to source the parts myself but the convenience factor is there of getting everything you need in one spot if preferred. The kit makes use of the Evo X 350mm rotors as opposed to the Evo 5/6/7/8/9 320mm rotors due to a couple of engineering issues, and of course better heat dispersion. Read more regarding the engineering issues on their page here: http://alphaomegaracing.com/i/9/Evo-Brembo-Brakes-On-A-Nissan-Adapter-Designs.html I personally purchased some calipers at a particularly cheap price which I found at the time, along with some Attkd 2 piece rotors. I also fitted these with some new Intima Type D pads. The car sees reasonably frequent track use so going for either RDA or DBA slotted rotors may be better suited for others. I had some custom brake lines made up at a local business which are required due to the Brembo calipers having banjo fittings. I had read in a couple of places that stock Evo lines would fit but it was found that they are too short and would pull on full lock. Test vehicle: 1998 Nissan Skyline R34 GTT – upgraded from stock calipers with DBA4000 T3 slotted rotors Unboxing the kit: The adaptor kit arrived super quickly and was packaged as well as you would expect this kind of part to be. The adaptors are super light being made from billet alloy and appeared to be of very good quality. They have Alpha Omega Racing etched on one side and ‘Made in Australia’ etched on the other. The kit included all bolts required with washers and an instruction booklet. Installation: Install was easy with the only issue I came across being that one of the bolts from the adaptor kit to the hub is slightly interfered with by where the factory brake line bracket is bolted to the hub (I believe this is not on all vehicles that the kit is designed for). The issue is outlined in the instructions provided with the kit, something I would have realised and known about had I looked at them prior to beginning the install (but hey, who ever reads instructions lol). Quick fix with an angle grinder and they bolted straight up with perfect alignment. The bracket is a non-structural component and is purely a mounting point for the stock brake line so there was no issue with removing it. Initial impressions on the street: A quick ‘spirited’ drive of the car after fitment and I found the braking to have more bite, as you would expect with the larger contact area of the pads. The brake pedal had a tiny bit more travel in it due to retaining the stock brake master cylinder. Alpha Omega Racing do recommend upgrading to a BM57 master cylinder, which I did purchase elsewhere but this turned out to be a faulty unit so I refitted the stock unit in order to get the car driving. Impressions on the track: About two weeks after fitment I attended a Wakefield Park track day to test out the new setup. I was definitely impressed and it took some getting used to being able to brake later at the kink/turn 2 especially. On the day I was able to knock 1 second off my previous PB and felt that I was still adapting to how well the brakes could pull the car up. The pedal feel was softer then before but not bad, it had more travel which some would prefer. My next attendance at the track saw me cut another 0.7 seconds off my PB, meaning I had cut almost 2 seconds off my times previous to the brake upgrade. By this point I had gone from braking between the end of the wall and the kink with the stock setup to now braking after the kink. Overall opinion: The quality of the adaptor kit is top notch and the customer service provided by Wing at Alpha Omega Racing was great. The install/fitment was perfect and the only thing that could have improved on this would be for me to read the provided instructions as I already mentioned. The flexibility to purchase the other parts is great as it allows for the money conscience buyer to source their parts or use already owned parts, or for the track conscious people out there to upgrade the setup even more. For the time conscious person, everything can be purchased from Alpha Omega Racing making it a quick process to get everything needed. The upgrade over the standard setup is definitely noticeable in terms of braking ability and the larger discs help with heat distribution too. Retaining a stock rear brake setup (freshly machined rotors with Intima Type D pads) did mean the braking was notably more front bias, but the car did not feel greatly unsettled by this. Alpha Omega Racing is currently releasing a rear upgrade kit which will aide in returning a more balanced bias. The recommendation to upgrade to the larger brake master cylinder would also improve pedal feel however I do not feel is ‘necessary’ in my car. This would probably be a different story in a Silvia or R33 GTS-t which both have a smaller unit. The kit originally caught my eye because the Evo Brembo’s have larger pistons and more pad area, while being a cheaper option to the ‘factory GTR Brembo upgrade’. Suffice to say I am definitely happy with the upgrade and will be looking forward to getting my hands on the rear kit. If anyone has any questions regarding the kit, its install, or any particulars about the performance on track, please feel free to ask me either in this thread or by sending me a PM. You can also read more into my car by checking out my build thread here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421419-timmys-r34-gtt/
  20. 9 points
    My ADM is build number 26 and of course the GTR is 2.6 L.........
  21. 9 points
    thought I'd join in this thread
  22. 8 points
    Brendons M35 build Thought I'd create a mini build thread on my progress with my first foray into Nissan wagon life and also a place to ask questions/path to follow. I bought the car with f**ked coil packs so I picked it up cheap off some Indian guy. Put a new set of coil packs in and all was sweet for the next 6 months . . . https://imageshack.com/i/pnV0vOWcj https://imageshack.com/i/pltD8QHij https://imageshack.com/i/popQVxMsj I noticed an oil leak from the passenger side that was slowly getting worse and traced it back to the oil feed line. Ah well no biggy, just an easy fix or so I thought! Having not worked on a VQ before, it wasn't until later on I discovered you can't get the line off without pulling the whole turbo Since the car wasn't far off 200k and the turbo had begun the Dyson whine song, I frantically searched for a new turbo. Scotty to the rescue with a Billet Intense he had spare that got to me in 4 days. In the mean time while the car was off the road I set about fabbing up a 3" bellmouth dump pipe. Then followed it up with a 3"-2.5" intake pipe. (Still need to weld on BOV return bung) And this weekend just gone I fabbed up a 3" catless exhaust system to finish it all off. I picked up 7psi of boost without touching a thing, so it's stuck on 21psi with standard injectors and pump. I've hit up Christian to see if it's possible to run the car safely at this level on 98 with his flash tune, otherwise I will probably put a hi-flow cat in to drop the boost a little. I've got a few other things in the works but all in due time!
  23. 8 points
    Well this is a thread I should have started long ago, although in my defence this build started about 6 years before this Build section was created. Basically this thread will cover some history from when I imported and picked the car up from Powerplay Imports in 2003 Up to it's most recent event, Targa High Country which was 2 weeks ago. And from here there is a fair bit planned over the next few months which is the reason I figured it was time to pull my finger out and start this thread
  24. 8 points
    The OEM front lip had seen better days and needed some repairs. I opted to go with a Aliexpress carbon (one thin layer of carbon and some fiberglass behind it) front lip lovingly made by a 9 year old in Vietnam. I also ordered some other completely useless carbon bits while on the Ali website. The quality is not to bad as long as you are prepared to spend a bit of time to make things fit nicely. Not for everyone but suited the look I was after. Removal of OEM lip "Carbon" lip installed Also got this "N1" bonnet lip for the sweet aero effects... It needed quite a bit of work to get it to sit nice and flush but got there eventually. Rear wing blade also went on, fit was surprisingly good. Jsai Aero side skirt extensions, rear caps and "N1" front bumper ducts also. Painted up the end caps in the garage, they didnt come out to bad and the fit is good. Side skirt extensions fitted. Last was the installation of the carbon front bumper ducts. That finished off the exterior stuff and Im happy with how it looks. Next step is some work on the engine.
  25. 8 points
    Well, 7 months ago I was made an offer on my R33 GTR that I could not turn down! After watching her been towed away I had made the decision to put the profits back into the house.....well that's what I told myself I was gonna do!!! One of my good mates had made the decision not to continue on in the car seen, so after some negotiating we made an offer on what you see here. To start with most of the car was built by the previous owner, how ever some loss of interested saw it go a little south. Determined to have a car for this years powercruise I set myself that challenge to get this bad boy back up to scratch.... Car is running a built Rb26/30 and 300zx 4spd built box with a 5000rpm stall converter + transbreak Morning of picker the car up Started straight away with tearing it down The car came with a few extra goodies Started stripping the car and cleaning the enigne bay for paint Chose the same colour as my new Jeep so it would match while towing Engine bay now painted Painted the engine covers at the same time Decided to open the motor up and have a look around. Good thing we did as we found some bearing wear. All new bearings and main studs fitted. While we were there fitted a tomei oil pump, Kulig Engineering crank trigger kit and customer enlarged sump and ATI balancer Once the engine bay was finished being painted we moved onto the new turbo, manifold and wastegate for the car though about a GTX but decided we didnt need it Moved onto the intercooler piping and started painting everything we could in black Made up a new air intake A before and after transformation Decided to add some carbon fibre to break the black and grey up Need to try and fit some 275's under it Well after playing around the inside I had to pay the outside some attention so we gave her a quite paint over a weekend On our way to get her tuned After driver 3 1/2 hours from Brisbane to Hervey Bay so Brad at Turning Point could get his tune on, dropped the car off and left it in Brads hands to get her sorted. The boys did come into some issues with the car and we had changed a few things from previous but this was to be expected. The car was running 1000cc sard injectors witch were swapped out for some bosch 1700s that I had but unfortunately they didnt want to play ball. After chagning all the plugs etc for the bosch injectors we had to change them back to the 1000's. On E85 the car stands at 630rwhp which should be nice to drive with the built 4spd 300zx box behind her!!! Will post some video's of the tune once I have some..
  26. 8 points
    It's smoother than the 8374. The 8374 felt snappier when it came on. This isn't. Low down there is noticeable lag compared to 8374 but once IMO it's perfectly acceptable to drive around town once ur up in the red range. My short ratio getrag also helps with drive ability. Top end is mental. Even as the driver I felt a little scared as too how quickly it picked up speed. 5500 to 8500 is where it all happens on 2.6 so a stroker and 9k rev limit with this turbo would make for an incredible street car.
  27. 8 points
    And now that all of the suspension components have been changed to fully adjustable gear, it was time to upgrade the brakes! So final pic with standard Brembos on it. Then we started to get to work and pulled everything off.. Cut a small section off the backing plate and the hub (part that holds the factory brake line in place) then fitted the adapter. I love how good these things look and how massive they are! So skipping ahead, we mounted the brackets and calipers and got to work on fitting the braided lines and modifying the hard lines to suit.. For the rears we used the Supertec bells as it was so much easier and has a big weight saving too, compared to the standard R35 units.. While we were at it, we upgraded to the BM57 as it utilizes a larger bore and improves pedal feel etc etc. Finally mounted the rotors Bled the brakes and used only the best fluid available. Hosed down the underbody to remove any potential brake fluid lingering around. End Result..... I cannot begin to explain how big of a difference this made over the standard brembos, you need to experience it to understand, and i'm only using the standard brembo pads that came from factory with the calipers.
  28. 8 points
    The 6262 sillyness is never ending... New cams just got the most power and torque it's ever made
  29. 8 points
    Guide : RB26 Inlet manifold removal Hi. So after finding not too many detailed guides on removing the inlet manifold, some with missing pictures, I decided to have a go at it myself my way and do a guide as I went. This is not an easy job, however it is not impossible. Tools you will need will be various 3 inch, 6 inch 3/8" and 1/4" extension bars, Swivel and Telescopic ratchet, 10mm, 12mm socket. Stubby 10mm and 12mm spanners and stubby ratchet, and Uni-jointed 12mm socket, also long nose pliers of various sizes and angles. Screwdrivers flathead and phillips various. 1. Remove Igniter, Boost Solenoid, Washer Bottle, Fusebox Cover 2. Remove 2 x Fuel hoses, feed/return that are at the underside of the manifold, one goes to a regulator under the manifold, these will leak so you will need some sort of rubber caps to put over them to stop the leakage 3. Unbolt the fuel filter and swing it out of the way. 4. There will be 3 bolts holding the fuel pressure damper and hard-pipes (Pic in Step 2) on the underside of the inlet manifold. You can now remove the 2 little smal hoses that link these to the fuel rail. These are often on very tight and may need to be cut and replaced. You can now remove these hardpipes from under the manifold. Picture below of how the piece looks 5. There will be a large wiring corrugated conduit near the area of these fuel hardpipes that were removed. This is held on by a large plastic holder. Use a flathead screwdriver to unclip the conduit from this holder and lower the conduit. There will also be a cable tie holding a wiring conduit to a bunch of hoses and other things, this cable tie can be unclipped without cutting it 6. The conduit clip in step 5 is attached to a metal holder which is bolted to the inlet manifold. Feel around to see where the bolt is as it's quite difficult to get an idea of it's position, you will feel a "hook" like metal piece here too. Both this hook and the bracket for the conduit clip is held on by the same bolt. As you remove it, note it's orientation so you can put them back in the same way. Picture below shows the orientation, 7. Drain oil and remove oil filter 8. Now it's time to begin unbolting the ISCV from the manifold, this is a big aluminium block bolted to the underside of the manifold. The block is held directly onto the manifold by Three bolts facing upwards, two of which are seen in the photo Below, the third one is at the other side, you will have to feel for it. Remove the bolts shown in the picture, aswell as the hidden bolt not shown in the picture. You will also now be able to remove the clindrical shaped solenoid below the ISCV held on by the bottom 2 bolts shown in picture, it's held on by a gasket that needs to be replaced later, and also has an electrical connector Also remove the cable tie shown in picture below 9. At the rearmost part of the underside of the inlet manifold closer to the firewall there is 2 large hoses that slide onto ports on the manifold, remove the clamps for these using long-nose pliers or whatever method you can and slip the hoses off. There is also a brown plug, unplug it. 10. At the back of the inlet manifold, at the top there will be 2 large rubber hoses connected to hardpipes, remove these rubber hoses from the hardpipes 11. The hardpipes in above photo lead down under the manifold, to a metal coupler that holds them together and to the inlet manifold. You can see this coupler if you peer down the gap between the manifold runners. These hardpipes need to be unbolted either from the inlet manifold, or from the other bracket that holds them to the rest of the hosing assembly to allow the manifold to come out either with this entire pipe together, or without it. Option A - Remove inlet manifold with hardpipes attached. Remove bolt highlighted in yellow. This option is preferred if you can get to this bolt. Option B - Remove inlet manifold without hardpipes attached. Remove bolt that normally will be found in hole circled in red. If you chose this option this bolt will be a very difficult one to get to, requires stubby 1/4" ratchet and socket. You will also need to unbolt these hardpipes from the ISCV via flange held to ISCV by 2 bolts, there is a gasket here too (Highlighted Green) 12. Remove fuel rail and injectors 13. Remove throttle level assembly 14. Remove the large pressure hose from the front of the inlet manifold, loosen both clamps on it to allow the maximum movement. This one is very stubborn and prying to with a screwdriver aswell as spraying WD40 deep inside helps make it loose. You need to pull from the bottom right section of the hose, and pull upward and slightly diagonally. 15. Remove inlet manifold nuts. Here you risk losings washers. There is spring and flat washers. This is most likely to happen for the underside nuts. Here you can use a small magnet attached to a screwdriver, then contact the screwdriver to the stud just enough to pull the washers to your screwdriver/magnet combo. 16. Remove the vacuum hose hose and bracket that goes to the brake master assembly, this will give more clearance for the inlet manifold to slide out. 17. You can now slide the inlet manifold out.
  30. 8 points
  31. 8 points
    some spirited driving through the Nasho after work....
  32. 8 points
    My GTR a few months back
  33. 8 points
    I know there are a lot of different dump pipes running around out there but thought I would do a write up on my install of Scotty's dump and front pipe with lots of pics for those who have not done this before. Thanks go to Scotty for all his tips and tricks. First put your car up on stands (or a hoist if you are lucky). Make sure your exhaust is cold and spray the crap out of your dump pipe nuts, o2 bung, front pipe bolts, gearbox mount bolts, dump support bracket bolts and attessa line mounts with you favourite brand of penetrating lubricant . Go to bed. Wake up bright and early and go and spray all of the above again. Go and have a coffee, breakfast, read the paper and have a dump (pun intended). Next lift your bonnet and remove the plastic engine cover (if you haven't already). Disconnect the o2 plug and feed it down to the dump (green plug on the right). Get back under the car and remove the front pipe (I had to cut mine even after soaking overnight). Support the front of the mid pipe with some wire or rope around the tail shaft. Undo the first three attessa line mounts so it doesn't get bent when you drop the gearbox (you could probably get away with just the first one). No need to disconnect the tail shaft or shifter linkage. Leave the dump support bracket attached for now. Then you want to drop the gearbox so take the weight on a transmission stand and undo the four gearbox mount bolts and let the gearbox down (it will only go so far as it will rest on the steering rack). If you do not have a transmission stand then rig up something dodgy to rest it on and raise your hoist. I take no responsibility for people using milk crates as transmission stands . Next, chose your weapons! I used a cut down 22mm spanner for the o2 sensor, a 500mm 1/2" drive extension, 1/2" to 3/8" adaptor, 3/8" universal joint (a ball style universal will not give enough angle) and a 3/8" 14mm socket (a cut down 6 point deep socket is recommended but I got away with a standard multi point one). I then used the 22m spanner and breaker bar with a bit of steel tube on the end to leaver against the dump support bracket to remove the o2 sensor. Now you can remove the dump support bracket. Now comes the dump nuts. Surprisingly mine were not too tight and I actually used a 1/2" drive universal and socket on all the nuts apart from the top left one closest to the firewall which needs the 3/8" universal and socket. Inspect the turbo and gasket (i reused mine). Stock turbo still looking good, spinning freely with little play. A bit of a comparison and pics of new vs old showing the very restrictive factory dump. Old front pipe about 6kg, new 4.5kg. Old dump 4.5kg, new 1.75kg. So with my Nismo exhaust that is a total weight saving of about 14-15kg over stock. Next you will need to cut down the bottom two turbo studs by about 15mm, enough so the new dump sits flush (remember you can always cut off more). Shove a rag or something in the turbo to keep the crap out. I also ended up cutting about 10mm off the top three studs so I could get the dump on with the o2 sensor in as with Scotty's dump the o2 sensor is offset and you can do up all the bolts with it in place (put some anti seize on for easier removal next time). Clean up the threads with a 10mm x 1.25mm die. To attach the new dump you can use the factory nuts for the top three studs but will need lower profile nuts for the bottom two. Put a bit of anti seize on the studs. A bit tricky to get the bottom two on especially with exhaust wrap so you sort of have to get the dump away from the turbo face, put the nuts in place and then you can get a few threads on and pull the dump against the turbo. Dump in! After that comes the dump support bracket, worth the effort to take some strain off the turbo. I drilled out the spot welds and ground down the factory dump heat shield to remove and get better access to the bracket. Then I cut through the dump flange to remove the spot welds holding the bracket, cut off the rusted studs and nuts and cleaned it up. I also had to elongate the holes on my gasket to fit the factory bracket. Now you can attach the factory bracket, raise and bolt up your transmission (or lower your hoist trying not to crush your milk crate ), bolt your front pipe back on and do up the attessa brackets. Push the o2 plug and lead back up so you can plug it in from the top and then give her a test run checking for leaks when the exhaust is both cold and hot. Step back and admire your work. To cat, or not to cat, that is the question.
  34. 8 points
    So as usual the Down Shift meet was marred with drama with an S15 crashing and a whole bunch of other morons chucking skids everywhere in their Hondas. Just remember this is exact thing that sets us apart from other clubs and the reason we've never had a police drama on a cruise to date. Just remember you're representing the club, and if you do something silly and get caught, we're all tarred with the same brush and its all downhill from there But great day aside from the unscheduled bath this morning around 7am, can't wait for the photos
  35. 8 points
    The ATR28SS15 would be a perfect turbo for your application. I didn't look into some thing even smaller as it doesn't make that much of a difference in response but did loses quite a lot of power. I've handed drawings of two more sets wheels to be engineered for the GTR. for main time, I've picked up a members R34. Its got 170,000KMs on the clock, average condition, with heaps of ice and minor engine mods done by a 20 year enthusiastic. probably due to the mileage, this engine feels pretty rough compare to my other two skylines. This might be affecting performance on the dyno. Condition of this car probably represents the majority of R34s on roads today. I will be installing commonly seen mods including a Blitz return flows cooler kit. the goal would be around the 330rwkws mark on Pump fuel, internally gated bolton. Will upload dates as project moves along.
  36. 8 points
    Assembled! Really happy with how they turned out, they look amazing!
  37. 8 points
    For those who haven't read MOTOR Magazine, March 1999... "Picture a car lobbing at Mt Panorama next October and, shod with slicks but otherwise straight off the production line, lapping the mountain some 10-15 sec quicker than any Commodore or Falcon V8 Supercar. It's nearly a decade since the first Nissan Skyline GT-R (the R32) did just that, demolishing local resistance around Australia's most famous circuit on its way to setting race records which still stand today. In an awe-inspiring demonstration of four-wheel drive turbo technology the car known as Godzilla humiliated our V8s, dominating so completely that authorities rewrote the rules to exclude it from competition. Yes, the original Skyline GT-R made plenty of waves, but if the latest version of this legendary supercar - the R34 - ever gets the same opportunity (unlikely, though that is), it will surely generate a tsunami. Consider these facts. In 1995 leading Japanese tintop racer Kazuo Shimizu hurled the R33 Skyline around Germany's famous Nurburgring in 7 minutes 59.8 seconds, making it the first production car ever to break the 8-minute barrier. But the R34 is in yet another league. The 'Ring' became a second home for Shimizu during developmental testing for Nissan last year, when the Japanese sliced a whole 7 seconds off his R33 lap record in testing to leave the unofficial Nurburgring mark at a staggering 7:52. Nissan wasn't about to bring its newest Japan-only performance hero to Bathurst for us to trial however, so we opted to take the R34 and its predecessor, the R33, to the Autopolis circuit in southern Japan. With us was Shimizu himself, the man who has tested both cars to their absolute limits over more than 2000 laps of the 'Ring'. "If it wasn't for the 206 kW maximum power limit the new GT-R would not only be the best handling car in the universe but the quickest," said Shimizu. Internally the R34 packs similar hardware to the R32 - a twin turbocharged 24 valve 2.6 litre straight six. Power remains at the published 206 kW at 6800 rpm, but torque is up 24 Nm to a colossal 392 Nm at 4400 rpm. The extra grunt comes courtesy of camshaft modifications for improved valve timing and new low-friction roller bearing ceramic turbochargers. Together it adds up to improved throttle response and virtually no turbo lag. "To keep the R33 cooking you had to hold revs above 4500 rpm, but with the R34 bottom-end response comes on thick and strong from 3500. And top-end power hasn't been sacrificed. It just keeps on serving up torque all the way to 7500 rpm," said Shimizu after his drive. Keep that power in check and flowing smoothly is the new and long overdue six-speed Getrag gearbox. The shift is quicker and, with free play reduced from 22 to just 5 mm, the most precise of any Japanese car. Nissan claims the GT-R's 400-metre time is down 0.3 seconds, to 12.6 seconds. And that its new Godzilla hauls from zero to 100km/h in just 4.9 seconds. The R34 redefines the GT-R theme by imposing more aggression on a formerly underdone exterior. The thick, chunky grille and the airdam section show definite hints of Aston Martin Volante and help make the new Godzilla a fearsome apparition when it fills your mirrors. The new car is smaller but weight remains the same at 1560kg. Overall length is cut by 75 mm to 4600 mm, with the platform taking a 55 mm cut to make it manoeuvrable. The angle of the twin layered rear wing can be altered four ways to improve downforce, and the single-piece forged BBS alloy wheels have been specially designed for the GT-R, up from 17 inches on the R33 to 18 inches. They're shod with arguably the world's grippiest rubber, a specially developed Bridgestone Potenza RE040 245/40 Z18 tyre designed to handle the GT-R's phenomenal performance. And what makes it handle so well are two pieces of hi-tech wizardry called Attessa ETS-PRO and Super-HICAS. Attessa ETS-PRO is a part-time four-wheel drive system which directs power to the rear wheels until conditions demand otherwise. Sensors monitor individual wheel speed, longitudinal and lateral acceleration, throttle opening and brake pedal activation to give the ECU sufficient indication of loss of rear traction, and only then are the front wheels engaged to pull you out of a sticky situation. At that point torque distribution is split 50:50 between front and rear. The 'PRO' bit is found only on the V-Spec (race-tuned) model and refers to the addition of a Helical LSD to the rear wheels. This is basically an active LSD that channels optimum torque between the right and left rear wheels to maximise traction. The Super-HICAS four-wheel steering system has sensors which measure steering angle, steering rate acceleration and yaw rate to ensure the correct response at the point of turn-in. Driving the R32 at speed, with its inherent understeer, required a high level of driving ability. You had to turn into a corner early, break through the understeer threshhold, wait for the oversteer to kick in, then countersteer and gun the car out. The R34 has found the perfect balance between four-wheel drive understeer and rear-wheel drive oversteer to make even the most mediocre driver feel like Michael Schumacher. And in talented hands it makes for a formidable combination. When Shimizu was testing the R34 on the 'Ring' he was passed on one of the long straights by a new BMW M5, travelling at 275 km/h. Once the cars reached the twisty sections however, Shimizu hosed the 300 kW car, which could only manage a best of 8:30. Inside, there isn't a lot to differentiate the new model. In fact, the GT-R is crying out for some inspired interior styling. It has always been thus, as if performance was such a triumphant priority that flair was forgotten. The focal point of the new dash is the multi-faceted display with a 150 mm liquid crystal screen sitting atop the centre console. It shows nine need-to-know mechanical paramaters, including turbo boost, torque split, and oil and water temperature. Fine in theory, but when you achieve warp speed in the new GT-R who has time to check how much torque is being channelled to the front wheels? In Japan you can have the latest version sitting in your driveway for $75,000. But don't hold your breath waiting for one to lob Down Under. Sydney-based importer Drummoyne Performance says plans to smuggle in an R34 would be on hold until a local workshop received Australian compliance. The wait for local enthusiasts could therefore be as long as 12 months - expect to pay $140,000 when it arrives. Nissan's decision to not import the R34 might be viewed as strange by some given the lengthy queues formed when Subaru offered a limited run of 400 STi WRXs here recently. All 400 (at $60,000 arpiece) were quickly snapped up and some are already being offered for resale in newspaper classified columns for upward of $85,000. But within Nissan Australia's Clayton headquarters there will still be painful memories of the R32, 100 examples of which were imported in 1991. The first few sold quickly, but heavy discounting was required to find homes for the rest. Such peripheral thoughts were far from our minds though, as we pulled into the pit area, still on sensory overload. The twin Godzillas were quietly tick-tick-ticking, seemingly content with the quantity of rubber they had torched in one day. While the beasts nonchalantly made their way into the hangar transformed into a temporary monster lair, we wondered who had been tamed - us or them." M Photos by Eric Tang - PI Magazine NB - In Motor Mag's Hangar their R34s were Yellow and Bayside Blue
  38. 8 points
    March is a great time of year. AFL is back, and so too that of the F1 Season. 2012 is an interesting season for F1 for a number of reasons. More rounds and with it more restrictions around engine and gearbox life. Break an engine it could potentially ruin your season. With this reason the technical partnership between Shell & Ferrari is being forged ever stronger Before reading on, if you remember past write ups I have done then sweet – if not then check them out as once again. CLICK for 2009 CLICK for 2010 CLICK for 2011 F1 moves to 20 Rounds for 2012 20 round for 2012 - WOW. A record number for F1. Throw in the engine development freeze until 2014 and so the challenge has been set of not only sticking with what you have, ensuring it does not fail being more important than ever. Cara Tredget, Shell’s Formula One Technology Manager said ‘I’d say that our challenge is all the harder as we have less parameters in which to work and that make any performance advantage we can give Ferrari all the more rewarding." Here is some further commentary from Shell on the work and development Within the car, much work has been done on the new engine. Amongst other elements, the Maranello engine specialists have been working on performance drop off, with the aim of maintaining the highest possible performance level throughout each engine’s cycle of use, which has now reached an average life of three races. Sums it up perfectly really. F1 Race engines lasting an average of 3 races, potentially more. So Shell provide the fuel, engine, gearbox and other oils... Something I didn't know is that Shell also provide Ferrari with a bespoke fluid used in keeping the KERS battery system in running order. Perhaps not as cool a s cucumber however temperature is important to help prevent electrical charge escaping. Time for some fast facts once again: Fast Facts • A Formula One car has a minimum weight of 640 kg, including fuel and driver. • A Formula One car can go from 0 to 100 mph in 1.5 seconds. • Over a race weekend, a driver will change gear about 8,000 times. • Formula One drivers experience forces up to 5g when taking sharp corners • The average cockpit temperature is about 50 ºC, rising even further at the hotter races. And slightly more technical... • Every year, Shell blends more than 200,000 litres of fuel for the Ferrari Formula One race and test teams – enough to last a road car for 50 years. • Shell’s Formula One V-Power racing fuel contains up to 200 different components. • Pistons can exceed temperatures of 300 °C The Pit Tour This year was a little different. Due to extra teams and Ferrari's season last year the pit area the team had to work in was about 1/3 smaller. McLaren were close by next door with staff from both camps essentially rubbing shoulders when leaving the pit area's. Certainly hard to keep any secrets in this environment. There is limited pictures this year as we were not allowed to take our own pictures. A bit of a change compared to previous years however there are a few none the less. Shell Corp Tent & Ferrari Drive Day After the pit tour there was a opportunity to go on a Ferrari drive day... Unfortunately not being 30 meant I couldn't attend and had to send a proxy in my place. This will be the only time I wish I was older. So I asked if I would like to stick around in the Shell Corp Hospitality area down on turn 1... After twisting my arm so severely it resembled a Chinese burn, I succumbed and agreed On a more serious note this was a great opportunity to find out a bit more about the inner workings of Shell as a company, the people behind it. Who knows what else might occur as well. My host for the afternoon was Paul Zenarro, Shell Senior Media Advisor. After some rather great food, Dick Johnson dropped in for a quick Q&A in-front of the guests present. His Fav car - The old Sierra Cossie (that one was for you Brisby!). Later on in the day whilst talking about all things Shell, Paul advised it was a possibility organise tour(s) of the Shell refinery down in Geelong. Both on foot and via mini-bus. As SAU users are generally quite technically minded I thought this to be a great offer to look into further. I'll continue to work on that so keep a keen eye on the Victorian section over the next month if this is something that tickles your interest. Enjoy Part 2 Cheers Ash SAU Admin
  39. 8 points
    You've all seen that BIG RED is entered for some of the competitive parts of the day... But what about the Show'n'Shine? Well below are some of the cars that will be representing at the S'n'S Stefan - R32 GTR Jonno - R32 GTR Derek - R34 GTR Scott & Johns R32 GTR (Winfield Replica) Daniel - R34 GTR Marc - DR30 More to come in a couple of days Going to be a very awesome display indeed!
  40. 7 points
    GTR-Registry.com is proud to announce the release of the entire Nissan Stagea Collection! This release covers both the C34 (WGC34, WGNC34, WHC34) and M35 (M35, HM35, NM35, PM35, PNM35) Stageas consisting of 191,967 cars! In the following links you can find the VIN/colour/type/date/engine/transmission/suspension/drive/interior/model code and specifications list from the model code options. What started out as a simple "I wonder how many 260RS' were made" has turned in to an epic task after I decided to firstly get all of the C34, and then I decided to try and get every Stagea made. There are only 70 records out of almost 192k that I was unable to obtain. There is a huge amount of special editions and different types. In fact, there are 42 different C34 types (when split by series) and 66 different M35 types! There are also quite a lot of very rare 1 of 1 colours, that you can check out in the Colours breakdown, and cross reference on the VIN tables. For example, the only C34 painted KT2 Bluish Silver is: WHC34-001645 and the only M35 painted 621 Pure White is: M35-108380 The colour charts are located: C34: http://gtr-registry.com/en-c34-colours.php M35: http://gtr-registry.com/en-m35-colours.php The VIN tables are located: C34 WGC34: http://gtr-registry.com/en-wgc34-vin-table.php WGNC34: http://gtr-registry.com/en-wgnc34-vin-table.php WHC34: http://gtr-registry.com/en-whc34-vin-table.php M35 M35: http://gtr-registry.com/en-m35-vin-table.php HM35: http://gtr-registry.com/en-hm35-vin-table.php NM35: http://gtr-registry.com/en-nm35-vin-table.php PM35: http://gtr-registry.com/en-pm35-vin-table.php PNM35: http://gtr-registry.com/en-pnm35-vin-table.php The Production charts are located: C34: http://gtr-registry.com/en-c34-production.php M35: http://gtr-registry.com/en-m35-production.php And to answer the original question, there are: 1734 260RS 986 260RS (Series 1.5) 748 260RS (Series 2) Split into: Series 1: KJ6 Dark Bluish Black Pearl: 196 KR4 Sonic Silver: 138 WK1 Silky Snow Pearl: 652 Series 2: GV1 Black Pearl: 122 KR4 Sonic Silver: 192 QT1 Pearl White: 434 I'll make the Registry (http://gtr-registry.com/forum/) section of the website available soon, where everyone can add photos and information about their Stagea to the website and it will link right from the VIN tables. I hope you guys find this information useful, as I have spent literally months obtaining and putting it all together. I would like to also acknowledge the help of several people in particular as this project would not have been possible without them: Steve: Database construction Kristian at Iron Chef Imports: Tons of translations and advice. Brendon: Original website and database design As well as some others who helped in smaller ways. Please like GTR-Registry.com on FaceBook for updates! Feedback, suggestions and lawsuits are most welcome! Regards, Mark Dodd About GTR-Registry.com: GTR-Registry.com is the world's leading source of Nissan Skyline GTR and Nissan Stagea production information, which has led to the discovery of the true build numbers of many different versions which were previously inaccurate. The website currently stores the records of 264,161 cars. When using numbers or information obtained from the site please reference GTR-Registry.com.
  41. 7 points
    Man my back is sore lol. A fixed bucket seat, semis, several solid suspension arms, rock hard suspension but yeah ended up doing over 450km today. 1.5 tanks of fuel later 😂 Good drive with @PLYNX and my mate in his R33. Okay, admittedly it was pretty fun and first time I've actually stretched the new setup with a lousy tune. Shoots flames, 11:1 afrs, lazy 10 to 12 degrees of timing but it is wanting to light up 255 Nankang AR-1 semi slick tyres. Still need to swap out thr gate spring to a softer spring, running a 4 port solenoid and with a 1bar spring there's very limited resolution, kept spiking and hitting engine protection.
  42. 7 points
    Video of one of the dyno runs: It made 525kW at 27-26psi. We then turned the boost up to 29psi and on the next run just as it passed through 545kW the compressor outlet pipe clamp let go at about the 6000+rpm mark. Probably would have gone close to 555ishrwkw on that run. We quickly replaced the busted clamp and fired off two more runs at 29psi, both in the 549.Xrwkw range. I still think my GTX3584RS 1.01 combo is capable of 560-570rwkw on this dyno, with boost set to about 32-33psi. But the fuel system is completely maxed out at well over 90% DC and I'm not willing to increase base pressure any higher than 56-57psi. Close enough to call it 550rwkw will do. I have a Racelogic Traction Control system installed in the car and on the drive home I quickly discovered the previous setting of 5% slip is not enough to prevent excessive wheel spin in 3rd gear as it ramps up to peak torque. Lowering it to 4% was a little better, but 3% might be required. 0% is the wet weather setting through to 25% is minimal TC input.
  43. 7 points
    So she got towed down to the shop this arvo. First time I've seen the car on the welds not in the garage. Look absolutely sexual, super happy with them! Got it down the shop and had to take a quick snap with the motor. Super excited to get it in the car running. Should be more progress this week
  44. 7 points
    Engine builder sent a few snaps to me today! Ready for assembly now wooo! Rings are all gapped, just gotta drop down the old pump housing so he can machine out the slot for the crank trigger, and take new crank seal and pump gasket and it's going together. NSFW
  45. 7 points
    And you know everything I assume, including how to hack and tune a factory Ecu? Firstly I'm running a Billet Intense RS Turbo and secondly it's safe on 19psi as my AFR doesn't go above. 93v at WOT. And it's "you're" by the way.
  46. 7 points
    Hi Peeps, Just thought to update this thread, been a long while since posting on it with some updated progress. As you all would know we get so consumed with work and other things and becomes a battle to work on our own projects. Anyway will do my best to explain what progress has been done since last time. The last post was pretty much the vehicle first coats of high fill - and as you all would be too well aware lots of sanding and prep in between all the other, just to get the vehicle ready for paint work. Hah then when we get to the final stages and we get the odd cut through while sanding, yep more paint and finally ready for its clean down prep ready to put in the booth. I can't believe I just pushed 18+ months into a few sentences. Wow the long days nights and weekends As you get further through the images you will see some changes were made, rather than just choosing a color scheme and running with it because in our heads we think it will look great and in actual fact could look quite silly on a vehicle. Also I didnt want to just hope it looked good - so a lot of testing and painting sample cards and panels just to get the desired effect I was looking for. And when we go custom 3 layers and 3 layer effects standard basic procedures are pretty much out the window. The challenge was on thats for sure, after doing a lot in the past and working with candy pearls flakes and that over the years, the confidence was there but we all still second guess our process, constantly making sure we have everything covered even down to that last little piece of tape we apply during prep, up to the cleaning and making sure we minimize static as much as possible. Well time to put up some images and show some progress. I will explain as I go 1. Early days masking off and hitting it with primer high fill to get ready for the blocking sanding to ensure any little imperfections are gone. The joys of having a reasonable straight vehicle meant no serious body work. Mainly just the door handle area's had slight low spots, from memory one small stone chip dent on the passenger door when a guy cutting grass shot a friggin rock at me, Just trying to keep the body lines and edges throughout the sanding was probably the most important. As long as you stay away from all edges and just work them very slowly. Was a challenge but enjoyable 2. Bonnet had 2 very small low spots back left drivers side and front right passenger side right on the body line of the bonnet There were a lot more images in between this but I guess you guys would get a bit bored seeing all the images in primer and stages in between sanding, more sanding running through the grits - the initial sanding with with orbital all dry sanding, and using the softback interface in certain area's. After the initial orbital work. I made the decision to wet sand. Originally I wasnt going to - but it got the better of me and done it all with 800grit - not too fine so we dont get any de-lamination. Basically 400 grit all over and then 800 grit all over. Now ready for some color So it all comes down to this, all that long hard work and prep - like they say blood sweat and tears. And a little bit of $$ - some like blue and some like pink we cant keep everyone happy. But as long as its what you want and like that all that matters. 3. All inner panels and jams were painted first obviously. As you can see we prep everything like we are painting all the parts we dont see when the vehicle is back together. Taping is quite enjoyable because we know its so close to being time to paint. Using the various methods of hard and soft edge so we dont get visible paint lines in area's we dont need. Time to hang some panels at this stage - basically all this was complete and baked off at 60degree's then straight into hanging the panels so we can remove all tape that we need to then tape it all off again. 4. So by this time is when it starts to get pretty exciting - all that hard work is finally coming down to this. In this first image I have layed down the QM1 white base coat and then hit the vehicle with its 2 final coats of white silver pearl. Now ready for taping off and its about 12:30am The reason I hung the front and rear bar like I have was to get that even blend of the pearl. You cant see in this image but directly beside me is the rear boot spoiler which is also coated at the same time. Basically perfect even coats with no double coats like we can get away with using basecoat or clear. If you double up on candy and pearl it will stand out, so some area would appear to have 3 coats etc etc. Tight overlap of 75% from bottom to top and all the way over and down. like painting a box and not following the body lines/shape. Full length from front to back along the sides. Look at that pearl on the white - just makes it stand out as you guys know white is white but when we add something special it can look pretty good. Ok so now its about 3:00am and I was getting fairly well spent at this time, 8:00am start and yeah all day - 3 or so hours to tape off. But I actually sat back and reset myself and said you know what this part needs to be as good as you can get it, dont rush and just enjoy it. Only happens once. And that helped get these stripes the best I could given that I was by myself - Anyway before the spraying I had previously made my own templates for the boot back boot front, roof back roof front and same for the bonnet. Helped a lot doing a trial run before booth time. But the problem for the roof was my intention was to poke up through the sunroof and tape them off. But I couldnt disturb the clean car because we try to minimize dust and crap. So I made the choice to tape from the sides and ends. Not too bad at all. You will also see slight green fine line tape - thats how everything was initially taped to get the stripe edges perfect. Then simply tape everything else off. Silver Basecoat which is the stripe edge lines. And yep had to run another fine line all the way across the vehicle after the silver was painted. Before apply the DNA Black basecoat which will become the main base for the stripes. Now in between here were some images not taken, wow was I in for a surprise. By this stage its about 4:00am and I layed down the blue flakes. If I had to do it again I would coat the complete vehicle with intercoat before applying the flake stripes. Just to protect that pearl and I would definitely double mask off next time. So I could minimize and chance of flakes getting in places and working there way out. So you could probably guess - when unmasking all this ready for the clear coats. The flake on the masking was falling off everywhere. Took maybe 2 1/2 more hours to unmask, clean and blow away flakes and then mask it all back up for clear coats. 6:30am - time to go home and reset - have a coffee and rest. Back in at 8:15am - masked off and ready for the clear coats. As you guys may know we have a certain window time frame from first to last coats to get the clear down and seal all the hard work we have done. 24 hours. On the first coats I wanted to make sure to cover the blue flake area's first just to seal any stray flakes that want to blow off. So I gave the stripe area 1 coat first - then let it flash off and proceeded to coat the entire car with the first medium wet coat. Also just so you guys know I hit the stripes with 2 extra coats just to get some clear setting for when I flow coat it all out. And the entire vehicle was 4 full coats and 1 medium wet. This allowed enough room for perfect smooth stripe line edge and mirror finish across the flakes. Ensuring we have enough to cut and stay away from the pearls. 5. Thought to share this image, as you can see being that the 375 flake a reasonable coarse. We tend to get a lot more orange peel - and also along the paint edge stripe lines 6. So your probably thinking or not - anyway I'll tell you a day before painting I was having doubts about the stripe choice - so I made changes and not painting a sample to see what it looked like added to the unknown. Just visually thinking what it would look like. Originally I was going with 8inch stripe with 2 inch black - so from Blue flake straight to black - which made the stripes 10 inches wide and a 2 inch centre line - so yeah changed it up moments before taping off. Again whats with the imperial measurement - I was inspired by a Mustang and took a liking to the stripes on this thing. Here is the original sample cards or test panels I painted - just to see with white pin lines and blue straight to black . It was playing on me a bit and made the decision to go full blue flake with that silver edge line. I was happy that I made that choice. 7. Just a few pics after it came back out of the booth and some slight assembly. From left to right on the back of the vehicle. A little bit of extra detail in the Garnish. Turned out pretty good for half hour of taping off. 8. Ok so some people probably wouldnt post this stuff up, being that we all thrive for perfection. As we know it either paint too dry and have massive ornage peel or find that balance of getting it to settle in better. After 5 coats of clear all was going great and that last final coat I slowed down even more and managed to get a hanger across the back quarter panel. Just thought to share these on the cut back. Using this method helps to get it all sanded down even - cutting the run out without cutting into the surrounding paint and making further work or sanding ripples into the clear. Build it to the top of the run keeping it tight, feather out all edges initial sanding with 400 grit jut to take the top off and get that smooth level then 800 grit - just working it as if you were flat block sanding anything and working it all even until it all gone. Gone flat smooth and happy with that 9. At this stage the vehicle sat for about 2 weeks and then it was time to start flow coating. 800 grit from start to finish. All wet sanding and staying right away from edges. we can afford a cut through into the pearl, and cutting back the stripe edge lines and the flakes was also a bit of a challenge. Just hoping not to hit color or flakes. Sanded the entire car first then worked the front and rear bar last, on the first prep of the front and rear bar felt like it took longer that the damn car iteslf. So many angles to work and not many areas for flat block - soft back sponge worked in some area but others were all mostly by hand and very careful. After sanding the rear bar and cleaned down - got that nice even coat of water just to see how the clear will settle down in the booth. And its like a mirror. Looks pretty good Another shot with the water across the rear bar. Further down I also took this same image after the DNA Diamond Clear was put down. 10. Finally all sanded back flow coating time ready and the thought of having to tape and clean it all down - Hmmm yeah I did mention that taping off is enjoyable but the thought of it was not so much. In the booth though its quite different because we are so damn close to sealing and finishing it all off for its final assembly. Anyway guys here are the last images of booth time and laying down that DNA Diamond Clear - high solid. You will remember the initial clear coats were an MS Clear First Clear coats going down - medium wet and first coat. Here is that image I mentioned earlier after the DNA Clear - not bad at all. Settled down nicely So yeah thats pretty much where the project or respray is at - had the windows fitted Monday last week. Overall very happy with the job - 3 full coats of DNA Diamond Clear so plenty more room to cut and polish. Managed to get it to lay down nice and flat minimal orange in certain area. Detailed the black and silver before the DNA Clear. A couple of bits of dust settled which need a denibbing and polish Been cleaning parts down and fitting them back in. Slight issue with the electric windows - driver side goes up and down. Cant put passeneger side up or down from the drivers side, I can put the passenger window up from the passenger side but it wont go down from the passenger side. I jumped the wire to get it to go down. Now when I tested with multimeter - the up is getting full volts but the down is only getting 8 or so volts. Last minute changes yesterday and late last night to an engine component - back down for the final second tuning this coming Wednesday. Removed and installed the new Hypergate - so yeah removing the manifold welding the new flange and fitting it all back last night. Flying trip to VPW yesterday to collect it and price was better than anywhere I have seen for the genuine TS WG45 This coming Wednesday finally back at the Dyno - I will be filming the dyno runs and when the final tuning is complete - cross fingers touch wood it is all finalized on Wednesday with no hiccups - I'll upload the run and give you guys the link. Also after the Dyno I will be detailing the wheels. And finish installing the front bar, just keeping it off until Dyno is done. So I can trailer it with no issues on hitting the front bar. Hope you liked the images and the long post wasnt too boring for you guys. I will be sure to get some full final images after its all back together. P.S engine bay Radiator Support is going a different color And road trip is not too far away for those up in NSW / Sydney that I am visiting on the way to Gold Coats and Hervey Bay. Much deserved break needed. Cheers
  47. 7 points
    Let's not turn yet another thread into a discussion about your car, please.
  48. 7 points
  49. 7 points
  50. 7 points
    LOL, Yeah the pimply face flatcappin drift kids think they are hurting me really really bad because i shit can them on a regular basis.
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