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  1. 45 points
    R33 4 door , sun roof 1993 106 thou ks on the car Rebuilt 26/30 with standard rb30 pistons and rods Acl race bearings balanced crank ,npc rings Has less than 1500 kms since built ,95 %+ of kms on the dyno Have dyno sheet for 302 kw on 14 psi The turbo is a to4 with a 76mm front wheel 1.0 rear housing non ball bearing turbo Power fc with hand controller ,z 32 airflow meter,walbro intank pump,catch can 60mm v band gate and screamer pipe, stainless steel 3 inch v band turbo dump Straight through 3 to 3.5 cannon exhaust R34 gearbox, Nizmo twin plate clutch Hsd front shocks ,section 8 rear shocks both height and damper adjust ,hard race caster bars , hicas lock bar Slotted front discs R32 Gtr front seats Volk racing 18 s on the front ,r32 stockies rear Comes with a spare diff,spare front knuckles and uprights ,spare pair of r33 stock wheels, 25 mm spacers ,4x 17 inch wheels no tires spare rear cut ,Spare damaged car striped out 2 defi gauges not installed cooling plate and more bits n pieces This car is complied but has been unregoed for a long time I was going to drift it unregoed but I have toooo many cars It has been hit in the rear , has been pulled but has not been painted Just in parts this is a good buy at 8500 but I am open to reasonable offers to sell fast located 5 mis from KKs at orange grove Pm if interested or want to come check it out
  2. 22 points
  3. 22 points
    I have found a buyer for the tyres, someone buy the rims for $400...
  4. 21 points
    Item Summary: 2002 NISSAN 200SX Spec S Location: QLD: Brisbane Postcode: 4067 Odometre: 220,624 kilometres <- chassis mileage, NOT engine km's (see below) Asking Price: $23,990 Condition: Good Reason for Selling: Want to start a new project! Delivery Methods: PickUp Contact Info: Michael on 0413504084 Extra Information: I have built this car up from scratch and it has served me well. I don't really want to sell it, but if the right buyer comes along I may let it go to make way for a new project. All the mods done on this car are purely performance based. This car was made to be driven, not posed in McDonalds carparks. I have listed the cost of all the mods next to them in the list below to give a better understanding of the amount of money and time put into building this and how much of a bargain this is going for. The only things left to do are T518z, Tomei Step 1 Cams, and HPI Intake Manifold. 2002 Nissan 200SX S15 [ADM] - $17,000 Odometer: 220,624km's <- chassis mileage, NOT engine km's (see below) Seating Capacity: 2 Mod Plate/Engineered: LK1, LA3, LA8 - $500 - 2 seater - Fixed back seat - Turbo system with front mount intercooler - 6 Point Rollcage with Braces & Padding Engine SR20DET - 127,000km's - Compression tested 140-145psi across all 4cylinders 170RWKW (230HP) on only 11psi on basic tune Garret T28 bush bearing (replaced) - $450 Braided Turbo Oil & Water Lines - $250 Z32 Air Flow Meter - $200 Sard 550cc injectors with Sard Collars - $660 Walbro GSS342 Fuel Pump - $120 GFB Manual boost controller - $70 GKTech Rocker Arm Stoppers - $50 Apexi PowerFC with hand controller - $1100 Koyo twin-core copper radiator - $300 Front Mount Intercooler 600 x 300 x 76mm - $300 Stainless Steel Exhaust Manifold - $300 Stainless Steel Intercooler Piping - $300 Stainless Steel Intake Pipe - $50 Stainless Steel 3" Catback Exhaust with HiFlow Cat - $700 Stainless Steel 3" Twin Pipes - $400 Stainless Steel 3" Dump Pipe - $120 Stainless Steel 3" Front Pipe - $160 Battery relocation to the boot with fuse & in-cabin isolation switch (2GA) - $500 New 480CCA Century Battery - $120 Neodymium Magnets on the oil filter and sump - $50 Drivetrain Brand New Exedy Hyper Single Clutch rebuilt by Jim Berry with 4 puk Carbonic Button solid center and 3600lb pressure plate - $3000 6speed manual Tomei 2way diff (4.1 ratio) - $1100 6 bolt half shafts R33 Diff housing Suspension/Handling/Steering Section Silkroad RM/A8 Base Height Adjustable Coilovers with camber tops and damper Adjust - $1300 KKR Tie Rods & Rack Ends - $150 KKR Extra Lock Spacers - $20 D1 Caster Arms - $160 Section Silkroad Camber Arms - $170 Cusco Toe Arms - $160 Nolathane bushes throughout - $150 Cusco Strut Brace - $150 Brakes New Rotors - $150 New QFM Brake Pads - $50 Wheels/Tyre 18x8.5" +11 Stich Evolution's with Kumho ECSTA KU31 215/40/18 - $1100 18x9.5" +26 WORK VS-KF's with Federal 595 235/40/18 - $1800 Interior Velo GP-90 seat (Brand New) on Bride Lowmax rail - $650 & $250 R32 GTR Passenger Seat - $250 Cusco Safety 21 6 point Rollcage with braces and padding - $1100 Apexi Rev Speed Meter - $350 Apexi PowerFC Hand Controller AutoMeter Pro-Comp Boost Gauge - $50 Battery Isolation Switch Fire Extinguisher - $30 Central Locking Double Din 7" Touch Screen DVD/*everything* player with reverse Reversing Camera - $400 Sony 6" speakers - $80 InCar Camera Mount - $20 Chassis Rolled/flared/pumped and repainted guards all round to fit epic wheels - $900 No damage to rails or undercarriage and no rust Paint is ok but needs a respray to be perfect - can be organised/negotiated into the price.. Notes 1. Prestige number plates do not come with car. 2. I drove to Melbourne and back, and was getting 600-650km before the fuel light came on - that means 700km's on a full tank - and around town 450-500km's when driving conservatively. 3. If you are wondering about insurance, Full Comprehensive insurance through JustCar Insurance costs me $1100/yr and is insured for an agreed value of $24,000.00. 4. Vehicle is not under finance or on any register for repaireable writeoff's or stolen vehicles. Purchase Procedure Buyer inspects vehicle. If buyer would like to proceed with sale, a non-refundable deposit of $600 must be placed and within aproximately 3-5 working days I will have a RWC organised, my personalised plates removed inplace of standard ones, all paperwork drawn up and the vehicle ready for the completion of sale. Pictures
  5. 20 points
    Ad was better without pics
  6. 12 points
    Hello, My name is Eddy and i’m from the netherlands! I’m sorry for my english, it’s not the very best[emoji85] Name : Eddy Country : netherlands Age : 26 Car : R34 GT-R omori R-tune #001 Since i was a little kid, i had 1 dream! A dream to build the skyline form 2 fast 2 furious, and yes i buld my own version of it when i was 19 years old! But first when i was 18, i bought a R32 GTS-T. After 4 months i sold that car an bought myself a R34 GT-T. It was a R34 GTT automatic (tip tronic), and it was complete stock. I bought a GTR conversion kit, and build it to a GTR replica! After that it got a respray and i finished it with the livery of the R34 GTR of paul walker in 2 fast 2 furious. Also the striping was painted, not stickers. I had that car for 5 years, i did a automatic to manual conversion, i swapped a RB26DETT, it was a great car and the new owner loves it! After that 5 years, i sold the car and bought my first GTR. A R34 GT-R V-spec, with a complete Z-tune body! Red leather interior, Nür spec RB26 engine etc etc. The car was sonic silver, but @ the vin plate it was the color code LV4 ( midnight purple ll ). I wanted to let it respray back to that color, but when we checked the car what we needed to do, we saw that the car has had a lot of damage. So i parted it out and sold it. The same day i bought my new love! The R34 GT-R Nismo omori R-tune #001 ( 1 of the 3 concept cars ), it is a very rare car and i love it so mutch! This is the Nr. 1 of the 3 concept cars that nismo build in the factory, and tested them in 2003 on the nurburgring (germany) with the Z-tune concept car. I have all pictures of it and it’s amazing to see. Also of the build in the factory. There are only 2 R-tune concept cars left, 1 is crashed[emoji22] But when i bought this car, te previous owner told me that the owner of the 2nd R-tune lives in australia and his name is justin beeche. Maby someone know him? I can tell a lot of my passion of skyline’s and my R34, but pictures are better then talk a lot i think?[emoji57] I hope you like it, here are some pictures. Greets eddy
  7. 12 points
    Mrs gave me this for my birthday and we got it back from the framers today
  8. 12 points
  9. 11 points
    I attacked the rust then covered with some kill rust before hitting the whole bay with Primer gave the whole thing a rub down and clean before laying down the first layer of base coat. i practiced first on the Cam covers which accepted the black base nicely. Moved onto the bay when this happened... whole bay was cleaned with soap then rinsed off and wiped down with wax/grease remover and thoroughly dried before painting. Unfortunately i managed to get a light coating over the whole bay and had just completed my first wet coat before it started to show. Talking to a painter i knew. Apparently the factory bay paint is acrylic and can be a bit touchy with high solvent content acrylic paints. My base was 2:1 paint:thinners. as i was set up and i the cam covers black had gone on fine i continued the process as i only had a short window to get all coats on for it to work properly as for the Bay this mean going back to square 1 (or -1 as the case may be). The sizzled paint was not easy to get off and had eaten its way down a few layers. The whole process of taking back the paint set me back about 2 days. The black base was much harder to sand that the factory paint had been. Etch primered and the reprimed with a paint that i trusted. First layer of paint (base coat black) Intercoat of Clear base mixed with a powder Pink/Purple pearl pearl over black 2k Clear some close ups for my first time painting with pearl in a 3 layer job im pretty proud of what i managed to accomplish! the photos simply do not do the paint justice
  10. 11 points
  11. 11 points
    No doubt that many of our readers have already all set to attend Tokyo Auto Salon which begins tomorrow. Many of you may be sticking around after the show to do a little sightseeing or enjoy your Japanese vacation. Mine’s let me know that, as usual their annual Mine’s Meeting event will be held this year from January 14th – January 21st 2012. Mine’s has asked me to let our English speaking friends know that if you do want to visit, why not send them a quick note to let them know in advance so they can organize to have English speaking staff onsite: While in Japan for the period of the 2012 Tokyo Auto Salon from Jan 14 – Jan 21 all customers/fans are more than welcome to visit our shop in Yokosuka and see first hand where our work is done. To make your visit worthwhile we would like to prepare an English speaker for your visit and request that you give us notice beforehand by E-mail to the account below so we can make arrangements. mines@mines-wave.com If you do get along, say hi to the guys from me! Link: Mine’s Website (English) Link: Tokyo Autosalon Website View Entire Article: Mine’s Meeting 2012: Come Visit the Legendary Mine’s Workshop at GTRBlog.comOriginally appeared on and © GTRBlog.com. 2012. | Read comments. View the full article
  12. 11 points
    We are going back to Wakefield! Come and be part of the action Details here; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/361770-s-a-u-n-s-w-wakefield-trackday-number-2-for-2011/page__view__findpost__p__5774477 Cheers -Steve SAUNSW President
  13. 10 points
    The American way to modify cars has become "if it ain't available in a kit from an on-line vendor that is guaranteed to work with a selection of other kits available from on-line vendor then it ain't gunna get done". Only the ratrodders and the stancefags seem to be willing to do things themselves. The former because it is art, the latter because no-one is interested in helping them f**k up their cars. /rant
  14. 10 points
    Got the car back yesterday. Took a pic to celebrate.
  15. 9 points
    Your Brakelever looks like this? Time for an update! you need a sheet of smooth (automotive) leather, some Needles and waxed Thread. I get this from Aliexpress for less than 3$. First pull out the Metal Ring a little bit then cut the stitches And , surprise, the original isn`t genuine Leather! Took the original as a pattern for the new . Attention !!!! It isn`t a square. To get a perfect fit , cut 2mm narrower. Now do the punctures 3mm from the edge and 5mm wide You start like this. The thread has to be 4-5 times longer than the leather!!! To make it easier use a tube, keep attention that the cross of the tread , up and down, are all in the same way Now you can place the Leather to the Lever and then pull the seam tight do this with a crochet hook You can`t do this at once. Make 2-3 repeats! Keep an eye that the alignment is correct and the holes are at the same level. At the End .....the tricky Part. You have to put the Leather under the rabbet and fix it with the metal ring. The Leather has to be long enough but then it has a lot of wrinkles, is it to short it won`t be fixed Tricky. But in the End I´m very satisfied. A lot better than the old imitation Leather. I hope this is helpful for some!
  16. 9 points
  17. 9 points
    I just had to take it all home and mock it up. Looks unreal!
  18. 9 points
    I was reading through the thread and was going to weigh in anyway, though looks like you're very much on the page I am reading from - so I'll +1 with with a bit more anecdotal evidence to support it In general tuning I think a fair bit gets covered up by people running "rich" mixtures, I actually think a lot of the target AFRs people tend to run with modded RBs (and other motors) are actually masking/to mask these trims from front to back with some types of plenums (and other parts sometimes) - albeit not necessarily deliberately, and often as a roll on from when people tuned on pump gas. What would happen is people would tune and get knock or just from experiences of damaging motors in the past they'd run to something like 11.5 or richer (* results may very, just picking a number people can associate with to make a point), when in fact if you had individual lambda you may actually find that in some cases some cylinders could have been easily as much as 5%+ leaner than the mean. The trick here is that for that to happen, that cylinder is actually seeing 5+% more air - so while people often see it as "it runs lean"... what that actually means is it is getting a significant amount more airflow, so the timing is also going to be more aggressive for that cylinder, and the power level is also going to be 5%+ higher than the "average". Lets say that such a motor is tuned on 24psi, and the target AFR is a 11.5:1 - then this is what effectively happens when one cylinder is getting 5% more air than the rest: - It's own AFR is 12.08:1 - It's "load" is arguably pretty similar to if it was running ~26psi, but it's receiving the same timing as the rest of the cylinders - If the dyno is showing 400wkw, that cylinder could be developing enough power to contribute to making 420kw+ @ wheels while being tuned aggressively (compared to the rest) to do so This is a car which would probably be pretty reliable, and potentially actually be not a wildly rare outcome... it's just that ignorance is bliss. Stuff like this is why it irks me when you get people on the internet criticising a dyno plot's AFR trace etc when they have no idea what the tuner has done, what they are responding to etc - sometimes the tuner has covered a LOT more than some dude on the internet who knows some rules of thumb could even conceive of by just glancing at the dyno plot. Sadly, sometimes a lot worse can also be true. It is technically correct that "these cut and shut plenums work" however, as air is getting to the engine. That's what they're there to do and they'd have to be a pretty big fail to not succeed at that task. Essentially they just have to seal and let air to the right place, there is ALWAYS going to be turbulance and weird acoustic affects meaning that fill isn't working exactly as you'd expect it. Engines don't run in a beautiful constant flow way, but a better design will minimize the clutter - a crappy design / cut and shut will not. At the end of the day if you have a poor design then your engine will not be as reliable or perform as well as it could as there will be situations where the moving parts attached to one cylinder are doing much more work than the moving parts for another and the harder your motor is working the more strain your motor is under for no gain than it needs to be as in effect - your motor is only going to last as long as the bit under the most strain can handle. If all 6 cylinders were doing withing .5% of the one working the hardest then you have the potential to make quite lot more power with much more response etc and no more strain on a single point than one with a shitty plenum. Same goes for manifolding etc as well, of course. It could even be an argument against low mount twins where both turbos clearly don't get perfectly identical inlets and exhaust paths - given the turbines have a direct influence on engine flow and they work independent to each other, I do wonder how much that influences things when driven hard... Anyway. Buy good parts, use a good tuner, get good results
  19. 9 points
    I wish to achieve full hawkins spec break the internet and invent my own category of racing shit stance lyf #stockbottomend
  20. 9 points
    3 of SAU.NSW's finest. Glad to present... 3 Sisters hope to appear at a future SAU.NSW (Display) Event
  21. 9 points
    And mapping, car spec for 2015 : Engine: *Turbo BorgWarner S300SX 83-75 91. A/R Twin Scroll *ECU EMU (Bluetooth to Nexus 7 + Boost Controller + AFR + IAT) *High performance coil pack (blue one) *Injectors DENSO 800cc *Fuel pump Aeromotive 340 Stealth *Water cooler Mishimoto 52mm *Fans Cosswortch *Clutch OS Giken Twin Plate *Connecting Rod Bolt Kit ARP 202-6007 Suspension: *Coilover Tein MonoFlex 8/7 *Rear strut brace HKS *Full polyurethane bushing kit Intake: *Air filter AEM 21-3059DK *FMIC 600x300x76 *Bov Tial 44mm Exhaust: *Exhaust manifold Twin Scroll *Exhaust JASMA 3-3.5" *Westgate Tial 60mm Brakes: *Calipers form Cayenne (360x30 IS-F front discs, 350x20 370z rear discs) *Brake pump BM57 *Brake proportioning valve - Tilton Exterior: *Wheels JAPAN RACING JR3 19x10.5j et.22 *Tyres Michelin Pilot Super Sport 265/35/19 *Steel wheel nuts - TPI *Headlights lens LHD *Colour Jupiter Red from new AMG Interior: *Nexus 7 II in 2 DIN place (gauges and music) *Steering wheel R34 GT-T *Short shifter *Air conditioning *Cockpit s14&r33 *Alcantara headlining and sun visors + S15 black OEM Light units Sound: *Front speakers - Morel Dotech Ovation 6 *Amplifier - u-Dimension ProX 500.24 AYA *Speaker cable - Prolink OFC PRO CAV1003 *Signal cable - custom Klotz MY206 + Neutrik Connectors *Sound deadening (bulkhead, cockpit, floor, roof, rear fenders, doors) - Dynamat SuperLite (over 40 mats) + foam GMS 3mm & 10mm And the car look like that: And few details And some photos with my friend S15 Spec-R
  22. 9 points
    My gtr got broken into 3am Saturday morning, thanks to my alarm calling me and smsing me I woke up went down stairs and herd someone trying to open the door so I quietly went back upstairs and got my wife to call the cops I then went and sat in a spot where I could keep an eye on the car, I thought to myself if I go rage and run down he might have a weapon or run off and return a later day Somehow I kept my cool to sit and wait for police, I then herd "get on the floor don't move don't move!!" And people running so I jump down the stairs and see 6 cops slam this scum to the floor and handcuff him He was taken to the local station where he is known for theft My previous gtr was stolen back in 2012, with this gtr I went all out on the alarm/pager/gps and I did all I could to really catch this son of a bitch Thankfully no body damage to get into the car but the obviously the ignition barrel and wires under the steering are all fudged I first got the call from the alarm at 3:10, cops were there at 3:25 and he still couldn't start the car, suck shit Can't stress how important a good alarm system is people, spending $1200 on a alarm is cheap compared to loosing a gtr
  23. 9 points
    FULL DETAILS HERE: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/365953-s-a-u-n-s-w-texi-sos-3-september-2011/page__view__findpost__p__5839052 Event: SAUNSW Texikhana, S.O.S. proudly supported by Unigroup Engineering Location: Nirimba Airfield/Tafe/Skidpan/same place as last time (yeah its got a few names) Location map: Click HERE Date: 3rd September 2011 What is it: Skidpan + Go-to-whoa Lunch: BBQ and cans of soft drink available on site Spectators: Free to watch, BBQ will be $4 snag sandwich and $2 cans (selection of flavours available) Passengers: Free, MUST sign on, wear wrist to neck/ankle clothing with enclosed shoes and approved helmet same as drivers Courses: Released on the day at sign on First timers: Don't be shy, you'll love it. First timer F.A.Q. (Thanks Owen) available HERE (Click me baby)
  24. 8 points
    With GT-R values soaring in Japan I made the decision close to two years ago to start seriously hunting for the cleanest BCNR33 I could find. I knew if I waited any longer there would be no possibility of ever being able to afford one. I enlisted the services of Iron Chef & the initial scope was a Grade 4 or 4.5 S3 97/98 GTR in Black; but this essentially was like trying to find a needle in a haystack. A few months into the search after seeing Piggaz 33R, I changed my mind and started searching for a QM1 White car. As each week went by it became more & more difficult to find cars worth inspecting, and when they were inspected, they almost always had issues with rust underneath and/or strut tower rust and/or structural seam weld rust. Around the half-yearly mark, a 97 QM1 S3 caught our eye though we missed out on that and then found it a dealership in Japan for around the $60k mark. I then spoke to ImportR from SAU about his S3 GT-R, but while initially entertaining selling it he didn't have the heart to part with it. Alongside Steve's 7000km S3, his 33R would have to be the next cleanest out there. Around the 14 month mark I'd started giving up hope and was toying with the idea of S8 RX-7's, but then I received an email from Iron Chef regarding a '96 QM1 Prostock R33 GT-R up for auction at USS Tokyo. The auction grade was 4.5 with 49,000kms & service history. The car just looked like a complete showstopper and upon inspecting it in the metal - Kristian, Troy & Myself realised 'this is the car'. After a bidding war the car was mine, & then slowly I started finding out about it's very interesting history. I have since been in contact with Prostock Motorsports who provided details about the build & the fact that the previous owner is very happy & suprised the car has ended up in Australia. The GT-R spent it's entire life in Tokyo & this thread will present the two year period where the car was completely overhauled.The car was maintained at Nissan Prince Tokyo from it's beginnings and then sent by the owner (an older gentleman) to the GT-R Specialist ProStock Motorsports in Saitama Japan for a full overhaul in 2016. The invoices of the work was jaw-dropping, for many people it would be considered a once-in-a-lifetime build & after driving it - I feel it's the perfectly setup street car. After a visit to Rigolis, they described it as one of the cleanest GT-R's they've ever seen. Nearly every single part has been replaced with brand new, while the undercarriage & seam seals remain original without rust (even the strut towers). Thankfully, the chassis rails haven't been jacked like nearly every other GT-R either. There is a little bit of minor surface rust in a couple of small spots, which is why I suspect the car may have been stored outside at some point in its life. But that was always expected, my S15 which has been in Australia since new has the exact same. After a 4 hour marathon at the RTA which took a supervisor to overrule their know-it-all yet clueless staff member on RAWS importing rules & regs; the car was registered and the first drive was so damn sweet. As for the exterior, I absolutely love it and photo's don't do it justice. The paintwork is original & this was confirmed with a micrometer yesterday. As for my future plans, I haven't even been thinking about it - I love the car as it is, it's been an amazing experience to drive & I'm sure I'll never be able to part with it. The Skyline GT-R is a very special car when you can find the right one, so good luck to whoever else is searching for one & thanks for reading
  25. 8 points
    Fixed the electrical issue, some how 3x fuses blew and 1x relay died (no idea why/how)... Perhaps I started the car without the dash connected which breaks the sense wire circuit to the alternator OR maybe because my mate connected up the C-TEK to the battery on RECON mode (charges at a much higher voltage).. so yeah, I wasn't going to post this on a public forum but meh: Testing done in Hoi An, Vietnam - north of where I am at the moment. Car is untuned, on a Halaltech base map with injectors scaled correctly. Flex sensor reads E32 and compensation tables have a blanket 45% extra fuel going into it. On gate pressure hits 10.2:1 AFR LOL.. Just send it:
  26. 8 points
    Its about time I made a proper build thread, its always nice to get peoples feedback and advice when playing around with these things. As soon as I was getting near my opens up here in Queensland, I was starting to itch for a turbo car (i went through to early for the new rules where P platers couldn't own moderately powered turbos, but I was too late by 3 months to have open slather) and after a while I got myself a nice R32 gts-t. It provided me with some nice trouble free motoring for 3 years out of uni and into the workforce however after a while I wanted more. At the time I figured I could either do the GTR treatment (guards/bonnet/bar etc) to it but for a similar price I could upgrade to an actual GTR. So, at the end of 2013, this: Became this. Magic Transition!: I probably rushed into buying it too quickly, and in hindsight I probably should have kept looking for a better car, but more to come on that later... It was certainly more powerful than the gts-t, (biggest smile on my face ever accelerating when i turned onto the highway picking it up) and the seats made it feel much more sporty (i'd have to say, bang for buck best mod you can do to a gts-t would be gtr seats) but it didn't have the handling of low end that the gts-t did. Part of that was the turbo's.. here's a quick list of the interesting points of the car when i got it: Tomei ARMS turbos with tomei dumps/turbo back exhaust TE37's, 17x9 HKS coilivers Greddy EBC Nistune ECU mines 320kmph speedo nismo front bar water lines behind the block replaced I've deduced that the previous previous owner flogged the shit out of the car with the stock turbos until a point which they decided to stop working in a reasonable fashion at which point he flogged off the car to the previous owner, who decided to replace them with the Tomei items. Without supporing mods etc the car was making pretty average power, no better than stock. So, cue acquisition Z32 AFM's, 850cc injectors and a Walbro 400lph fuel pump and booking in a tune at EFI. After a struggle I got the Z32's on using an Ebay intake adaptor kit (due to the bigger body size of these AFM's), in hindsight i'd probably have been better off buying Genuine Nismo items that would have bolted right on, but i got a good deal on the Z32's so it wasn't to bad. Turns out the pump I had wasn't suitable for E85, so i had Sean supply and install one in the morning, and it was on the dyno in the afternoon. Cue... cue... Blown intercooler hose that night. Cue... new hose clamps Anyway, after a few more months I noticed I had a leak between the afm and the turbo (thanks, dodgy china intake kit!), fixing it caused the tune to be thrown off, so I thought... might as well get it tuned on E85. the car really needed it, full boost was extremely late, car really wasn't great to drive despite having a bit of power and would bring itself back out of the power band on gear changes. So, this happened. New cooler on the recommendation of Sean, Made 398hp on E85 but valve float struck though. Was good enough for then, picked up something like 800rpm of response on the turbos so i was pretty happy A few other little projects over the next few months. Undertray: Posing with a non nissan leopard Hardpipes Local lookout with my dad Aspiring: Anyway, around the end of the year I noticed that there was a small drop of fluid appearing just in front of the rear drivers side tyre. Closer inspection showed the subframe bushing was shot. Inspired by Cadmoon doing a similar job with his car, I set about doing a full entire suspension refresh, minus shocks. All new ball joins, adjustable upper arms, new bushes throughout. After a lot of help from knowledgeable friends and people here I accumulated the parts and set out doing the changeover over a Christmas break. As it turned out, the entire front right subframe bush crush tube had completely separated from the outer (no danger of falling out, but its not really doing much bushing), a few days of buggering around and they were out. Got some help from a friend who kindly did the wheel bearings and ball joints for me. Back together. There's a fronts photo but its even worse. After this, a good alignment are the car was driving pretty dam amazingly. Bit of road noise and you can feel the bumps more but you it feels so much more planted than it ever did. Note you can see from the photos the sils aren't in great condition, particularly in the rear right. That's one of the reasons I probably should have passed on the car, as I mentioned at the beginning. However as many are I was simply to excited and looking to much at other things to ever actually check them when I got the car. Its something I will need to address soon, though as yet I haven't fixed them. After this I enjoyed a good start to 2015, working back in Brisbane on a nice Monday to Friday gig instead of site work, i got to use the car quite a bit on week nights and weekends. Lot of cruises, few happylaps sessions (non 100% rate cruise sessions at the track basically) and went to the skidpan in Gympie for a day. However, after this I started to have a few issues. AWD pump decided the pressure sensor should now be a vent point and spilt fluild all over the diff. Pulled the diff out and got it refreshed while I put in a new unit however it failed to bleed properly or had some other issue and started spilling fluid out again. Refreshed diff was nice though. Spent most of the time running the car in RWD from then on while waiting for a fix. I had other issues crop up aswell. The tune on the car started using more fuel, averaging 15L/100 on E85 everywhere, even on the highway. I developed some sort of fuel pump issue, causing the rather large drama's from fuel starvation, and I also developed an intermittent miss. Ontop of that, some kind of oil leak in the turbo side of the engine bay started up. New fuel pump solved one issue, though what was left in the tank was distrubing. Oil leak turned out to be blowby oil stuck in the vertical part of the rear turbo intake pipe that was a slightly oversized diameter causing a spot for it to pool, and and slowly leaking past the hose clamp onto the dump of the front turbo. It caused some rather wild smoke though! Chucked a dodgy catchcan in to try rectify that one. The miss issue came and went, annoyingly. Plugs would get rid of it for a while, so I managed to get a track day out at QR in. I managed 61.8 on sprint, which was pretty respectable I thought, though I needed more grunt to get past the AMG in the group who was lapping 2s slower but always going out at the front. in the second last session I had brakes decide to go foot to the floor, so I called it a day. I had some Brembo's I was in the process of putting on, so that would easily resolve that. The miss and fuel usage issues didn't abate, so after a lot of researching and pondering future goals, (the tomei turbos were becoming very annoying by now) I decided on going down the haltech route for the ECU. I was also planning a road trip to Phillip Island with some friends so needed the ability to run 98 when required, but didn't want to loose the response that E85 gave the car with the laggy turbos. It seemed like a nice package, did all I needed, reasonable price, though if I were doing it again now I would probably go down the Link path. Anyway, come July, before the ECU is going in, and i'm out scouting the charity cruise route for 2015 with da prez, and on the way back home suddenly he's flashing his lights and Calling me. Wonder what's wrong with, I thought. Cue "TURN OFF YOU CAR" being yelled out... not good. Turns out a water line under the plenum (water to oil heat exchange returnto be precise) had just decided to randomly go while just driving back home. Cue plenum out. I seriously considered doing an engine out, and doing the oil pump, sump mods, front diff HG and valve springs and headstuds, and new turbos instead, it did seem to offer a slightly better effort to reward ratio, but in the ended up pulling the plenum in the bay and doing a hose refresh. Not a fun job. Also did a water to oil heat exchanger removal and put in an oil filter relocation+thermostat controlled oil cooler. Back together it went, the haltech went in and i got a flex tune done on it a few weeks before going to Melbourne. Unfortunately the miss came back in short order, as intermittent as usual, and I noticed that a bit of coolant had gone missing post tune... but it went away with 98. E85 and petrol tunes Also did the brembos and MCA purples (X-R series) as i'd need both for Phillip island and a semi comfortable drive down. Turns out the HKS coilovers had just busted a seal in the rear right, so that was lucky. Anyway, drove down in late October to do a session at PI, winton, the melbourne cup and swing by wakefield on the trip home. As it turns out it was an eventful trip. 200k's north of Melbourne the car started to get temp spikes, after pulling over and waiting for it to cool enough found the radiator was missing a few liters of water. So I had a leak somewhere. Filled it back up and had a nervous rest of the trip to PI but made it. Decided to take it on the track anyway and keep a close eye on the temps. It was a slow leak so should have been right on short track sessions. Had a blast at the track, it is really amazing, everyone should drive it at least once I reckon, however after my 4th session I parked up but then returned to the car to find a patch of oil on the drivers side of the engine bay. Oh shit, day over. there was a decent amount of oil all over everything, wasn't great. First suspicion was a leak from the oil relocation/cooler kit, which was second hand. Trailered it back to our accommodation and cleaned it all up but found nothing, which was even more disturbing really. There was still a decent amount of oil in there, above low (was overfilled for the track), so fired it up. Oil pressure goes straight up to the top of the guage... well, that's not good. Oil change and it comes down a bit but still a tad high. Take it for a short drive to the other end of PI, runs alright and pressure settles down a tad. Drain the oil pan... struck gold... or bronze.... shit. I deduced that the blowby has popped the dipstick off, and the righthander onto the straight at PI has pushed oil up it and out the end, causing the leak, but i've also run low at a point and started to chew the bearings out. As the car was running with no noises/issues with the fresh oil I decided, what the heck i'll see if i can't do the great ocean road, and go from there, see if i either drive it home or drive it to a car transporter. We set off, and I made it to Torqay just past geelong before the car suddenly got rather hot, and then pumped a rather large plume of white smoke out the rear. Headgasket for sure. At this stage I left the car overnight and jumped in with someone else to do the road. Luckily one of us had a trailer, so the car was trailered back to storage and then onto a Brisbane bound car transport. Anyway, this takes it up to November last year. I'll continue on in another post tomorrow, i've written enough thisarvo. Apologies for all the inevitable spelling mistakes.
  27. 8 points
    This comes under general maintenance I believe.
  28. 8 points
    Picked the car up today and all I can say is HOLY f**k. It's not even the number it makes it's how quickly it makes it. It has better response then my old -7 set up and just walks away. The only time the -7 set up matches it is when your foot is on the clutch stopped at idle now for the future of this car, I'm done with chasing power!!! I'm over the moon with how it drives. So now I'll be just doing some general maintenance and improving things that may break. I will still be updating this thread as I go
  29. 8 points
    Nismo Omori S1 Complete Motor & ECU *RARE* Up for sale is the RARE NISMO OMORI S1 RB26DETT COMPLETE ENGINE for R34 GTR. It doesn't get any rarer then this. The S1 engines were built by Nismo Omori Factory with 400bhp 450nm for increased power and torque across the rev range, giving a useable boost in those areas with less stress on the engine. It's a true 'street performance upgrade' for GT-Rs. A rare collector’s item for any Nismo fan. You know who you are Comes complete with Nismo Omori S1 Motor and ECU. Straight drop in package. Location: Sydney Price: $22,000 PM me for further details.
  30. 8 points
    I suppose, at the very least, something can be taken away from these frankenfails. So having GTX 63 mm wheels jammed into a place that they don't belong netted a result that was lazier by far then the original 2510's and made no more power than a 2859 (-9) with its smaller front fan and much larger rear end. The 2510's in original form never seem to match the -9's. Bigger front, smaller rear. A 2510 has a 2530 compressor with a much smaller ass end yet doesn't make the power of a GT SS/-9. What's the bloody point? 2540's which are a 76.2 major/51.7 minor compressor side being driven by a typical "GT25" hotside has always been a nugget. Big front, small rear. GT RS's were a 71.1 major/51.2 minor driven by a GT 25 hotside. We all know they suck. Big front, small rear. Jamming these higher flowing "billet" compressors in with no fooks given to the turbine side seems rather strange. These GTX wheels are designed around a compressor cover which looks nothing like the compact "GTR style" that they get machined into. What do they flow in those housings? Who the hell would know, but there is a common trend that the GTX wheels in stock style housings NEVER perform as well as when they're left in they're original home! Take the 2530 which for a long time was considered the "holy grail" of low mounts. Maybe because the compressor is matched to the turbine. Air IN AND OUT! How can you expect an engine to perform with a cork up its ass and the mentality of "but the compressor map said so". Voodoo's results (sorry mate) are a perfect example of this. If this was the case then we would all be running around with promod 88 mm front wheels being driven by stock sized turbine wheels "for responds" A GTX 60 mm wheel in its natural habitat flows 42 ish lb/min flat stick (who knows what it does in the compact housings but it won't be 42). That's 6 more than a -5's but still has to get out the same hole. 63's and 67's make the issue worse. It's like trying to empty a bathtub with just the plug pulled but being filled up with a fire fighters hose. Until Garrett do something with the hotside, it's the same stupid shit HKS tried years ago. Too much looking at what the compressor can do without any consideration to how it gets out!!!!! I attatched this before but I'll attatch it again. Look at the front to rear combinations and think what combo's work. It ISNT big front/peanut rear's.
  31. 8 points
    R33 farmcar. Who like's no-fuks-given builds? Gday Blokes This will be for the boys who enjoy backyard crap, not full blown nice builds. So we have a farm, that farm has a race track and each year we run a few events and buy shit cars to race, now if your quick you can pickup a few imports cheap...last year i went out with a stock sr20det 180sx that i later turned into a full drift build......a few months ago I picked up a crashed and shit R33 skyline. friends The car was pretty molested and shit, after tidying up lots of things I tried to get it started......long story short it had been sitting over 5 years in the weather and the engine was full of water/rust and all sorts of bad crap....i measured 0 compression on cyl 1 and 2 - then gave up testing. * rusted fuel pump / replaced with a spare walbro had sitting around. the fuel in the tank has melted all the seals and gone off. Pulled the motor out and went and got another 25 (because im sucker for pain) Clutch was u/s but i had a new one around for another project..so that went in. installed new thermostat, lower temp tridon one, i think its 70deg open. Installed a r32 rad i had lying around, had to remake the bottom mounts, make it sit higher + different rubber mounts type. Installed an intercooler on the front reo bar Made up some nice short pipework, to go through the front light cutouts. bonnet was bent, so threw it out made a short "dose" "snorkel" pipe or whatever you want to call it. made a twin top exit exhaust got a r32 ecu nistuned for the rb went out to farm for a test run So pretty excited for Australia day weekend, as that is race / play weekend! and there it is, shitty r33 for your pleasure.
  32. 8 points
    Finally got my new baby!!! I'm now a proud owner of a bayside blue R34 GTR V Spec[emoji1]. Low k's, good condition & sounds & pulls like a dream at 306kw-(thanks a lot to Milan for his time, money & effort put in car). Milan was awesome with helping organise process & helped make my Xmas & year by eventually agreeing to sell me his pride & joy-I promise to look after her mate. After loosing my dad & best mate this year, was hard to be happy......but now that I've truly experienced(& own) my dream car, I can honestly say I'm optimistic & truly happy again! I now believe Passion can overcome misery, and GTR overcomes all haha[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji1419][emoji1419]
  33. 8 points
    Update on my Gts-t, front bar finally painted and on
  34. 8 points
    if you $100 is costly you're in for a world of hurt
  35. 8 points
    I know there are a lot of different dump pipes running around out there but thought I would do a write up on my install of Scotty's dump and front pipe with lots of pics for those who have not done this before. Thanks go to Scotty for all his tips and tricks. First put your car up on stands (or a hoist if you are lucky). Make sure your exhaust is cold and spray the crap out of your dump pipe nuts, o2 bung, front pipe bolts, gearbox mount bolts, dump support bracket bolts and attessa line mounts with you favourite brand of penetrating lubricant . Go to bed. Wake up bright and early and go and spray all of the above again. Go and have a coffee, breakfast, read the paper and have a dump (pun intended). Next lift your bonnet and remove the plastic engine cover (if you haven't already). Disconnect the o2 plug and feed it down to the dump (green plug on the right). Get back under the car and remove the front pipe (I had to cut mine even after soaking overnight). Support the front of the mid pipe with some wire or rope around the tail shaft. Undo the first three attessa line mounts so it doesn't get bent when you drop the gearbox (you could probably get away with just the first one). No need to disconnect the tail shaft or shifter linkage. Leave the dump support bracket attached for now. Then you want to drop the gearbox so take the weight on a transmission stand and undo the four gearbox mount bolts and let the gearbox down (it will only go so far as it will rest on the steering rack). If you do not have a transmission stand then rig up something dodgy to rest it on and raise your hoist. I take no responsibility for people using milk crates as transmission stands . Next, chose your weapons! I used a cut down 22mm spanner for the o2 sensor, a 500mm 1/2" drive extension, 1/2" to 3/8" adaptor, 3/8" universal joint (a ball style universal will not give enough angle) and a 3/8" 14mm socket (a cut down 6 point deep socket is recommended but I got away with a standard multi point one). I then used the 22m spanner and breaker bar with a bit of steel tube on the end to leaver against the dump support bracket to remove the o2 sensor. Now you can remove the dump support bracket. Now comes the dump nuts. Surprisingly mine were not too tight and I actually used a 1/2" drive universal and socket on all the nuts apart from the top left one closest to the firewall which needs the 3/8" universal and socket. Inspect the turbo and gasket (i reused mine). Stock turbo still looking good, spinning freely with little play. A bit of a comparison and pics of new vs old showing the very restrictive factory dump. Old front pipe about 6kg, new 4.5kg. Old dump 4.5kg, new 1.75kg. So with my Nismo exhaust that is a total weight saving of about 14-15kg over stock. Next you will need to cut down the bottom two turbo studs by about 15mm, enough so the new dump sits flush (remember you can always cut off more). Shove a rag or something in the turbo to keep the crap out. I also ended up cutting about 10mm off the top three studs so I could get the dump on with the o2 sensor in as with Scotty's dump the o2 sensor is offset and you can do up all the bolts with it in place (put some anti seize on for easier removal next time). Clean up the threads with a 10mm x 1.25mm die. To attach the new dump you can use the factory nuts for the top three studs but will need lower profile nuts for the bottom two. Put a bit of anti seize on the studs. A bit tricky to get the bottom two on especially with exhaust wrap so you sort of have to get the dump away from the turbo face, put the nuts in place and then you can get a few threads on and pull the dump against the turbo. Dump in! After that comes the dump support bracket, worth the effort to take some strain off the turbo. I drilled out the spot welds and ground down the factory dump heat shield to remove and get better access to the bracket. Then I cut through the dump flange to remove the spot welds holding the bracket, cut off the rusted studs and nuts and cleaned it up. I also had to elongate the holes on my gasket to fit the factory bracket. Now you can attach the factory bracket, raise and bolt up your transmission (or lower your hoist trying not to crush your milk crate ), bolt your front pipe back on and do up the attessa brackets. Push the o2 plug and lead back up so you can plug it in from the top and then give her a test run checking for leaks when the exhaust is both cold and hot. Step back and admire your work. To cat, or not to cat, that is the question.
  36. 8 points
    For those who haven't read MOTOR Magazine, March 1999... "Picture a car lobbing at Mt Panorama next October and, shod with slicks but otherwise straight off the production line, lapping the mountain some 10-15 sec quicker than any Commodore or Falcon V8 Supercar. It's nearly a decade since the first Nissan Skyline GT-R (the R32) did just that, demolishing local resistance around Australia's most famous circuit on its way to setting race records which still stand today. In an awe-inspiring demonstration of four-wheel drive turbo technology the car known as Godzilla humiliated our V8s, dominating so completely that authorities rewrote the rules to exclude it from competition. Yes, the original Skyline GT-R made plenty of waves, but if the latest version of this legendary supercar - the R34 - ever gets the same opportunity (unlikely, though that is), it will surely generate a tsunami. Consider these facts. In 1995 leading Japanese tintop racer Kazuo Shimizu hurled the R33 Skyline around Germany's famous Nurburgring in 7 minutes 59.8 seconds, making it the first production car ever to break the 8-minute barrier. But the R34 is in yet another league. The 'Ring' became a second home for Shimizu during developmental testing for Nissan last year, when the Japanese sliced a whole 7 seconds off his R33 lap record in testing to leave the unofficial Nurburgring mark at a staggering 7:52. Nissan wasn't about to bring its newest Japan-only performance hero to Bathurst for us to trial however, so we opted to take the R34 and its predecessor, the R33, to the Autopolis circuit in southern Japan. With us was Shimizu himself, the man who has tested both cars to their absolute limits over more than 2000 laps of the 'Ring'. "If it wasn't for the 206 kW maximum power limit the new GT-R would not only be the best handling car in the universe but the quickest," said Shimizu. Internally the R34 packs similar hardware to the R32 - a twin turbocharged 24 valve 2.6 litre straight six. Power remains at the published 206 kW at 6800 rpm, but torque is up 24 Nm to a colossal 392 Nm at 4400 rpm. The extra grunt comes courtesy of camshaft modifications for improved valve timing and new low-friction roller bearing ceramic turbochargers. Together it adds up to improved throttle response and virtually no turbo lag. "To keep the R33 cooking you had to hold revs above 4500 rpm, but with the R34 bottom-end response comes on thick and strong from 3500. And top-end power hasn't been sacrificed. It just keeps on serving up torque all the way to 7500 rpm," said Shimizu after his drive. Keep that power in check and flowing smoothly is the new and long overdue six-speed Getrag gearbox. The shift is quicker and, with free play reduced from 22 to just 5 mm, the most precise of any Japanese car. Nissan claims the GT-R's 400-metre time is down 0.3 seconds, to 12.6 seconds. And that its new Godzilla hauls from zero to 100km/h in just 4.9 seconds. The R34 redefines the GT-R theme by imposing more aggression on a formerly underdone exterior. The thick, chunky grille and the airdam section show definite hints of Aston Martin Volante and help make the new Godzilla a fearsome apparition when it fills your mirrors. The new car is smaller but weight remains the same at 1560kg. Overall length is cut by 75 mm to 4600 mm, with the platform taking a 55 mm cut to make it manoeuvrable. The angle of the twin layered rear wing can be altered four ways to improve downforce, and the single-piece forged BBS alloy wheels have been specially designed for the GT-R, up from 17 inches on the R33 to 18 inches. They're shod with arguably the world's grippiest rubber, a specially developed Bridgestone Potenza RE040 245/40 Z18 tyre designed to handle the GT-R's phenomenal performance. And what makes it handle so well are two pieces of hi-tech wizardry called Attessa ETS-PRO and Super-HICAS. Attessa ETS-PRO is a part-time four-wheel drive system which directs power to the rear wheels until conditions demand otherwise. Sensors monitor individual wheel speed, longitudinal and lateral acceleration, throttle opening and brake pedal activation to give the ECU sufficient indication of loss of rear traction, and only then are the front wheels engaged to pull you out of a sticky situation. At that point torque distribution is split 50:50 between front and rear. The 'PRO' bit is found only on the V-Spec (race-tuned) model and refers to the addition of a Helical LSD to the rear wheels. This is basically an active LSD that channels optimum torque between the right and left rear wheels to maximise traction. The Super-HICAS four-wheel steering system has sensors which measure steering angle, steering rate acceleration and yaw rate to ensure the correct response at the point of turn-in. Driving the R32 at speed, with its inherent understeer, required a high level of driving ability. You had to turn into a corner early, break through the understeer threshhold, wait for the oversteer to kick in, then countersteer and gun the car out. The R34 has found the perfect balance between four-wheel drive understeer and rear-wheel drive oversteer to make even the most mediocre driver feel like Michael Schumacher. And in talented hands it makes for a formidable combination. When Shimizu was testing the R34 on the 'Ring' he was passed on one of the long straights by a new BMW M5, travelling at 275 km/h. Once the cars reached the twisty sections however, Shimizu hosed the 300 kW car, which could only manage a best of 8:30. Inside, there isn't a lot to differentiate the new model. In fact, the GT-R is crying out for some inspired interior styling. It has always been thus, as if performance was such a triumphant priority that flair was forgotten. The focal point of the new dash is the multi-faceted display with a 150 mm liquid crystal screen sitting atop the centre console. It shows nine need-to-know mechanical paramaters, including turbo boost, torque split, and oil and water temperature. Fine in theory, but when you achieve warp speed in the new GT-R who has time to check how much torque is being channelled to the front wheels? In Japan you can have the latest version sitting in your driveway for $75,000. But don't hold your breath waiting for one to lob Down Under. Sydney-based importer Drummoyne Performance says plans to smuggle in an R34 would be on hold until a local workshop received Australian compliance. The wait for local enthusiasts could therefore be as long as 12 months - expect to pay $140,000 when it arrives. Nissan's decision to not import the R34 might be viewed as strange by some given the lengthy queues formed when Subaru offered a limited run of 400 STi WRXs here recently. All 400 (at $60,000 arpiece) were quickly snapped up and some are already being offered for resale in newspaper classified columns for upward of $85,000. But within Nissan Australia's Clayton headquarters there will still be painful memories of the R32, 100 examples of which were imported in 1991. The first few sold quickly, but heavy discounting was required to find homes for the rest. Such peripheral thoughts were far from our minds though, as we pulled into the pit area, still on sensory overload. The twin Godzillas were quietly tick-tick-ticking, seemingly content with the quantity of rubber they had torched in one day. While the beasts nonchalantly made their way into the hangar transformed into a temporary monster lair, we wondered who had been tamed - us or them." M Photos by Eric Tang - PI Magazine NB - In Motor Mag's Hangar their R34s were Yellow and Bayside Blue
  37. 8 points
    March is a great time of year. AFL is back, and so too that of the F1 Season. 2012 is an interesting season for F1 for a number of reasons. More rounds and with it more restrictions around engine and gearbox life. Break an engine it could potentially ruin your season. With this reason the technical partnership between Shell & Ferrari is being forged ever stronger Before reading on, if you remember past write ups I have done then sweet – if not then check them out as once again. CLICK for 2009 CLICK for 2010 CLICK for 2011 F1 moves to 20 Rounds for 2012 20 round for 2012 - WOW. A record number for F1. Throw in the engine development freeze until 2014 and so the challenge has been set of not only sticking with what you have, ensuring it does not fail being more important than ever. Cara Tredget, Shell’s Formula One Technology Manager said ‘I’d say that our challenge is all the harder as we have less parameters in which to work and that make any performance advantage we can give Ferrari all the more rewarding." Here is some further commentary from Shell on the work and development Within the car, much work has been done on the new engine. Amongst other elements, the Maranello engine specialists have been working on performance drop off, with the aim of maintaining the highest possible performance level throughout each engine’s cycle of use, which has now reached an average life of three races. Sums it up perfectly really. F1 Race engines lasting an average of 3 races, potentially more. So Shell provide the fuel, engine, gearbox and other oils... Something I didn't know is that Shell also provide Ferrari with a bespoke fluid used in keeping the KERS battery system in running order. Perhaps not as cool a s cucumber however temperature is important to help prevent electrical charge escaping. Time for some fast facts once again: Fast Facts • A Formula One car has a minimum weight of 640 kg, including fuel and driver. • A Formula One car can go from 0 to 100 mph in 1.5 seconds. • Over a race weekend, a driver will change gear about 8,000 times. • Formula One drivers experience forces up to 5g when taking sharp corners • The average cockpit temperature is about 50 ºC, rising even further at the hotter races. And slightly more technical... • Every year, Shell blends more than 200,000 litres of fuel for the Ferrari Formula One race and test teams – enough to last a road car for 50 years. • Shell’s Formula One V-Power racing fuel contains up to 200 different components. • Pistons can exceed temperatures of 300 °C The Pit Tour This year was a little different. Due to extra teams and Ferrari's season last year the pit area the team had to work in was about 1/3 smaller. McLaren were close by next door with staff from both camps essentially rubbing shoulders when leaving the pit area's. Certainly hard to keep any secrets in this environment. There is limited pictures this year as we were not allowed to take our own pictures. A bit of a change compared to previous years however there are a few none the less. Shell Corp Tent & Ferrari Drive Day After the pit tour there was a opportunity to go on a Ferrari drive day... Unfortunately not being 30 meant I couldn't attend and had to send a proxy in my place. This will be the only time I wish I was older. So I asked if I would like to stick around in the Shell Corp Hospitality area down on turn 1... After twisting my arm so severely it resembled a Chinese burn, I succumbed and agreed On a more serious note this was a great opportunity to find out a bit more about the inner workings of Shell as a company, the people behind it. Who knows what else might occur as well. My host for the afternoon was Paul Zenarro, Shell Senior Media Advisor. After some rather great food, Dick Johnson dropped in for a quick Q&A in-front of the guests present. His Fav car - The old Sierra Cossie (that one was for you Brisby!). Later on in the day whilst talking about all things Shell, Paul advised it was a possibility organise tour(s) of the Shell refinery down in Geelong. Both on foot and via mini-bus. As SAU users are generally quite technically minded I thought this to be a great offer to look into further. I'll continue to work on that so keep a keen eye on the Victorian section over the next month if this is something that tickles your interest. Enjoy Part 2 Cheers Ash SAU Admin
  38. 8 points
  39. 7 points
    Small update, I finished the exhaust manifolds, ages ago actually maybe February and for whatever reason I don't have photos of them but I'm sure you can all use your imagination. I still need to make the pipe work that connects from the exhaust manifolds to the turbo and wastegate though. I have been working on my inlet manifold and it's pretty much done now. Next is to make some top feed fuel rails with short top feed injectors, finish exhaust piping to turbo and order some r35 gtr coils. See you in a few months..
  40. 7 points
    So finally been getting somewhere recently.. Received all my parts back from Japan, just waiting on piston pins to come back from getting DLC'd.. Went with ATI 1000hp Balancer instead of the Ross due to some disturbing issues I have seen. All bottom end parts have been WPC treated. And now the block is getting line bored with this beast...
  41. 7 points
  42. 7 points
    Finally had some time this weekend to take my new acquisition for a spin, wash it and find a car cover for it. Here as promised, some pictures. Cheers!
  43. 7 points
    Hey Travis, interesting post, what prompted you to decide that 2017 would be the year to add a $1000 bucks to the price?. Whilst I'm in the market for a GTR and yours is somewhat of a reasonable price, don't you think you might actually clean it before posting such terrible pics. Mate have a look at the centre console and the passenger seat, did someone piss themselves and nobody bothered cleaning it up. If you have since detailed/cleaned it have you any new pics, oh I see no pics of the boot area, those would be good, as well as under the car, ie chassis rails, under the front and rear. Did you have the car painted when it got here or was it done before your purchase?. Do you have receipts for all the engine internals purchased and the engine building?. I am concerned that you spent all that money on the engine and then used a tee-piece boost controller and cheap air filters. It's just not making any sense to me. When I look at a car with the sellers price, I start to add and subtract money as I look at the pics, Yours for me started at $28000 and hasn't got much above that, the bonnet lip and N1 bar vents are cool but thats about it. Why no side indicators, surely in Victoria it's part of the compliance, it is in NSW and would have to be addressed for rego. That rust in the rear 1/4 panel is not minor, that a double panel and a pain in the arse to fix, seems it was not when you bought it and that leads me to wonder what actually got re-painted when the lower 1/4 was repaired. I'm not even going to ask who painted the wipers blue, that's an easy fix. Please don't get me wrong as I am in the market and have the cash, you need to enlighten me on some worrying things on the car. Cheers Neil.
  44. 7 points
    last light this afternoon
  45. 7 points
    Time for an update. due to time constraints and the ever looming beer bottle, the car got taken to Grim Performance at Hornsby to get the exhaust done amongst a whole heap of other stuff. - Exhaust completed. - Individual EGT on manifold. - Post turbine EGT - Exhaust gas pressure sensor - Pressure and temp pre and post compressor. - Rear subframe has been out. All bushes have been replaced including diff bushes. - Nismo GT Pro diff has been turned down to soft. Cranky unit! - New steering race has gone in. Car slipped off a jack and busted a nob off. To be done. - Install and plumb fuel system with -10 Teflon braid lines. - ECU change. Blackbox is gone, Emtron KV8 going in. - Airbox. - Strain gauge for sequential. - Install V cam. - Tune. Ive had the Step 2 264 at 8.7 mm cam (WTF am I gonna do with a fairy penguin 8.7mm of lift) reground to something that's a bit more aggressive. Not sure of the exact grind yet but I will know soon enough. Something around 265-270 with 10.2-10.4 mm of lift. Dump pipe. Mid muffler section. Rear diff section. Gate merge. This photo looks funny. The merge looks very sharp but it isn't really. Must be the lighting.
  46. 7 points
  47. 7 points
  48. 7 points
    After 8 months. The boxes have made it.
  49. 7 points
    This is so sexist! I can't believe men are stopping women from being apart of motorsport. I think all women should go braless or topless to show these men that they can not and will not tell you what you can and can't do!
  50. 7 points
    The new front is going to be quite aggressive... Functional and looks amazing compared to the standard GTT setup...
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