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  1. Hi peeps, got engine run-in and tuned by Jez few days back Results 488kw on EFR8374 1.05, boost around 27psi and tapers back up top, E85 (red) 98 (green) 2.8 nitto stroker with v-cam Full boost around 4k during dyno run (boost is filtered so doesn't show real response) but in steady state load tuning it makes 27psi by 3300rpm 1000nm torque by 5k
    7 points
  2. Dash fives get the guys
    6 points
  3. Been along time on the updates so here goes Ran in WATA in Nov '19 - had blown headgasket issues and by the end of the day had oil coming out of gearbox and diff also - still ran a good time and had fun but was running the car at 10/ 10ths and it had copped a beating for a fair while After a bit of a rest the rebuild began - longer than I wanted and expected but coming to a finish now Was running a 4.3 diff with 2 way kazz from drifting now gone to a GTR 1.5way Cusco setup w shafts etc setup by the diff guru over here in W.A - also nice Greddy hat Coupled with new 2 piece tailshaft also new twin plate Direct Clutch spec clutch In addition to assist in modulating braking better but cbf going full peddle box went with in engine OBP brake booster replacement was balance bar etc Was using gauges in the dash that basically didnt work or I didnt look at anyway so went with Powertune dash for now its not bad for what it is and gives the nice basics for a hack like myself have updated comfort and safety with new seat and belt BIG change for me is sold off the PPG dogbox and went Samsonas sequential No pics of it but changed ECU from older Vipec v88 to new Haltech 2500 with all the gear + full rewire of engine loom Will be going DBW soon also Also - total rebuild of the engine - still forged rb25 Along the way for weight and cleaning up the old interior picked up Topstage carbon dash All the interior is put together new Sparco with quick release in there too Martin from @Unzipped Composites has been awesome and come on as a sponsor for me moving forward and is cooking up a fancy new front end and bonnet that will be soon installed and completed So after all that... the car is setup with a base tune we'll go run it on - get a few more bits put on and then hopefully it'll be go time to learn all the new things at once and try and progress from there
    4 points
  4. Yes, but Facebook is evil ball-sniffing bullshit.
    3 points
  5. Didn't get a chance to do much over the weekend. Fitted my newly powdercoated exhaust shields with nice new bolts. The little things! Finished off my jig. Hopefully get some stuff done during the week this week as we're heading away next weekend for AFL grand final weekend.
    3 points
  6. Why hasn't anyone done the following to shut up the haters? twin turbos twin plenums twin ICs some form of 2x way dildo balance tube between plenums
    3 points
  7. @mr_rbman cheers, I think once you’ve got the hang of one type of tigging the other varieties are a lot easier to pickup. Once you’ve got the hang of puddle control and feeding filler it’s just a matter of understanding the idiosyncrasies of the different styles. In saying that I tried to weld up an engine cover I smashed on my motorbike on the weekend and made an absolute meal of it! That was junk alloy plus being oil soaked it just turned to poo. Binned that part..... Wasted $200 for a box of Jappo spec bolts so shiny new bolts for days! Most of the original ones came up ok after a good clean but you can’t beat brand new ones!
    3 points
  8. I don't know of any that far north but any brake/parts shop will be able to supply rotors or even one of the resellers on this site. @Dose Pipe Sutututu for brake stuff
    2 points
  9. agree. after a number of years with 8374 on my evo8 at 2.1L. I swapped to 7670 and 2.3L displacement. little beast is exactly how I describe that combination
    2 points
  10. Holy crap time flies! So to continue with my cars story, when the clutch blew I knew it was time to finally do some more serious work to the car. At this time the car had R32 GTR wheels on the back, R32 GTS wheels on the front, good suspension, good brakes, so it handled and looked great. I had always wanted a turbo so now it was a good excuse to sort that out. I decided on a 180SX front-cut, the price included a swap over with my old engine and gear box. This was purchased from the Import wreckers in Shepparton, the same guy who had sold me the R33 subframe. He was kind enough to let us occupy his workshop for the day, swapping out the engine and getting the new one in and loading up the front-cut and taking it home. While pulling the front cut apart I discovered a Mines sticker on the computer in the kick panel, which is just a standard ECU that's been tuned, but it got a slightly annoyed look from the shop owner who probably would have tried to squeeze a few extra bucks for it. I got a few nice goodies from the front-cut, including a digital climate control unit and a digital dash cluster with heads-up-display. I had a friend come to Shepparton to help with the conversion, letting him have a pick of anything he wanted from the front cut, minus the above mentioned bits. My friend worked at the local Autobarn and was a huge help sourcing parts and general knowledge. He had his own CA18 S13 drift car which was a pretty wild beast. A massive win I had was when I was buying some bits to finish the conversion. I wanted a FMIC kit, slim battery, some fancy Blitz black light a-pillar guages, a good clutch and other assorted bits and pieces. We got all the parts together and when I was about to pay, I whipped out an old and faded Autobarn membership card and joked around asking if this would get me some special discounts. My mates jaw dropped and he was like "holy shit dude!". He told me that Autobarn had decided to scrap the membership card thing and we're offering a big discount on final purchases when members handed them in. It was the final couple of days they were doing it. My bill was close to 2k and the discount was something crazy like 30 or 40%. The next time I seen him he said his boss had pulled him aside to ask wtf he was doing giving friends such ridiculous discounts, but he could do nothing but get annoyed when he explained everything. A rare win!! The engine swap went well, I just had to take it to a shop to have the new clutch fitted and a short shift kit i had bought months earlier installed. It then had to go to an auto elec to fiddle with it to get it all up and running. The first drive home the cooler pipes let go a few times, which taught me to tighten my hose clamps properly, but other than that it was a sweet feeling to finally have a turbo! I then had to finish fitting all the little things like kick panels, dash trims, glove box and other assorted forgotten parts removed during the engine swap. By this time the defect I had received when I was over in Shepparton had gone over it's due date, so my car was now unregistered and unroadworthy and couldn't be driven. At the time, I didn't have access to stock suspension to get it cleared and when the clutch blew I kinda just ignored it, figuring I'd have to get it re-registered with the new engine anyway. This would be one of many mistakes made, which would contribute to me losing interest in the car. At around this time a a lot of shit was going on in my life which forced me to ignore the Silvia. I had quit my long term job, moved out of home and met a girl. I lost touch with friends and spent too much time with the new girlfriend, ignoring the Silvia which now sat around un-driven, because my new job was within walking distance of my new house. Long story short, months turned into years, the girlfriend was a waste of time, my change of career was a bad choice and my life was a blurry mess of partying and occasionally buying car parts I never did much with. After a few years of this I met a new girl, settled myself, sold off other project cars I thought I wanted, and brought the Silvia with me across several house moves. Over the couple of years since the engine conversion, i had a number of shitty experiences with buying parts which only put me off further trying to get the car "finished". I had shops send me wrong parts, overseas ebay dealers refusing to ship due to the difference between Australian and US "verified" accounts and addresses. Sure these guys were happy to sell the items but would then not communicate and not reply until you got ebay involved to get your money back. I had sellers mislabel parts or use old photos when the parts were in much better condition, so when they show up they're rougher than in the photos. Lots of annoying shit that discourages you from continuing. Anyone who's tried to work on a car with a very low or non-existent budged knows its tough to find parts you can afford, so you sometimes take risks on a deal that goes bad. By this point the Silvia had become a painful thing to look at. On one hand I had a lot of fond memories and didn't want to let it go, but on the other I kept thinking about all the defects, the hassles of getting it roadworthy and the negative attention it would draw from the police whenever I drove it. So many times i talked about selling it but just couldn't go through with it, but then finally one day I did actually attempt to sell it, but the market was so flooded with shitty S13s, and because of the sorry looking state my car was in, it didn't draw too much attention. I think about what I was asking for and I'm honestly surprised I was willing to let it go for so little and that nobody bought it! Some of the worst S13s I see today are still going for more than double what I was going to sell mine for. I've never been so happy to not sell something in my life! After failing to sell it, i decided to clean it up and work towards "finishing": it. I got some things fixed here and there, bought the carbon bonnet and got some Rays red wheel nuts as well as some other bits and some new tyres. Fast forward to today and the Silvia is still a pretty sweet looking car. Aside from some peeling clear coat and a cracked dash, it's straight as an arrow and runs like a dream. The interior is 100% intact and only has a couple little blemishes here and there. The skyline wheels were sold a few years back and replaced with some sweet 17x8 & 17x9 Gold Blitz Technospeed Z1s. I had dreamed of these wheels for years! I found a carbon fibre bonnet and some nice little motorbike sized carbon mirrors. The boot spolier was sold or traded years before and other bits and pieces have been collected and await fitment. This is pretty much how the car looks right now, but it has the factory bonnet back on and the front lip spoiler is back on too. This pic was taken after i had got the Blitz wheels. I was excited to see how they look with the Tanabe struts. Fingers crossed the car will be back on the road in the next 6 months. I've got more time and money to devote to it and the wife is pretty keen to see it going so we can spend any kid free days we get out driving the sweet country roads we have in victoria. Future plans include some new seats, a rocket bunny boot spoiler, a rear bar and getting the Vertex front bar i have fitted. For a long time i wanted an R34 GTR spoiler, but im not so sure these days. A window tint is needed at some point too, but i cant get too distracted with wants, i need to get this thing on the road first. I'll be back with any updates.
    2 points
  11. Or would you post a different model so it will throw people off track? End of the day any alarm is only as good as the install, and even the best alarm ever isn't that good anyway.
    2 points
  12. 100% this, if somebody wants to steal something they will work out a way to take it. I am just trying to stop the people who are opportunists
    2 points
  13. Nice result mate bet she's good fun to drive! 8374 really is 1 of my favourite turbos! They are very beastly to drive! Do you have a turbo tacho? Know what RPM you're at? My car goes in for the last few psi in a couple weeks. It will turn all 4 in 1st now so see if she can make the tyres scream in 2nd with the last few psi haha! The 7670 is also a little beast to drive on the street
    2 points
  14. Small update, got a hillclimb tomorrow in Canberra which is always fun. Also got a new alarm (viper 3606) as the old one was horrendous and had a short range, went off randomly and I needed to fix my central locking after changing my dash. Very very happy. Also got some floor mats from car mats direct. Super nice fit and finish. Overall super happy Also finally have settled on the design for the baltech dash
    2 points
  15. This is not a fun time 😔 feel for ya mate, but you said it yourself a few pages back - its all just metal and you can't take it to the grave! My 2c on the fender repair - body filler will look terrible over time. If it doesn't crack, it will definitely at least shrink and cause distortions in the surface. The only way to fix that panel and have it last is to replace it.
    2 points
  16. I have used these two. https://www.bunnings.co.nz/carbond-310ml-black-940fc-pu-adhesive-and-sealant_p0298510 https://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/gorilla-940fc-pu-sealant-310ml-grey/p/343001
    2 points
  17. Post up the boost control table. I couldn't watch the video but it sounds like you're asking the boost controller to cycle around the idle areas of the map. Simply pull the duty cycle out of those areas of the map, it's not like your making boost at idle anyway lol.
    2 points
  18. Snuck out to the shed tonight and quickly whipped up my k-frame jig to sit on jack stands prior to reinstallation of the engine/trans assembly from underneath the car. It should make it a bit easier to support the whole thing even with that.
    2 points
  19. 2 points
  20. The mechanic was moving out of British Columbia and into Alberta, Canada. https://www.alberta.ca/out-of-province-vehicle-inspections.aspx Basically, to check for basic safety or any mechanical concerns or issues before someone gets their vehicle insured in Alberta. I think he had only a few weeks to move to a new city and no time to do any upgrades or back to o.e.m. prior to moving out of British Columbia. I have seen the one product by HKS - speed de-limiter. I think i'll wait until I get a turbo setup, one day. eventually. For now, the stock rb25de neo runs quite well. All except the hazard/turn signal light issue(s). The search continues to resolve the no working light issue. Thanks! I have always wanted an R34 and I was quite pleased to be able to buy this and in a 4-door. Good space for our two small (papillon) dogs or the groceries. lol
    2 points
  21. I thought VCAM was the nirvana for RB26?
    1 point
  22. Just needed to calibrate it, which was pretty easy, got my phone out, did a constant 60kph on a straight road, hit the calibrate button, and now its perfect
    1 point
  23. at last putting back together
    1 point
  24. Decided to go through all the boxes todaysprings over sized valves buckets guides and locks and cam cap studs basically everything needed to make the head better then new
    1 point
  25. I drove my car today for the first time since... May? March? Something like that. I cannot hear my exhaust. Opening or closing the Varex is a "Is this.. open or closed? I cannot tell" kind of deal. So at least you can enjoy your exhaust and not.. a myriad of other sounds I am yet to figure out how to resolve. Maybe the Commo design is good for something after all!
    1 point
  26. welcome! decent looking ride. any plans for future upgrades? or leave stock and enjoy?
    1 point
  27. That they are! Except they only get semi hard and stare at your shoe laces.
    1 point
  28. Because it's just a 2 state bleed. It's a digital on-off arrangement. With Nissan it's X (where X is a fixed 5 or 10 or similar) psi from the spring with the solenoid closed and Z (=X + Y where Y is a fixed 2 or 3 or 5 or something similar) psi when open and bleeding. Mac valves are throttled by the PWM controller to give an analogue effect. With PWM control, it's X + A where A can be anything at any time depending on the limits of the bleed size, duty cycle limits, etc.
    1 point
  29. Hi mate, Grant is building my car 😅
    1 point
  30. So -10s must be like twin BBC's
    1 point
  31. Have you setup and tuned the ecu at all?
    1 point
  32. 1 point
  33. Yes ironically the space-saver is not saving space in my garage, so feel free to grab it asap.
    1 point
  34. Ok sweet as ben thanks
    1 point
  35. Don't worry brah, I heart BMW too. On the fence between stripping the R33 shit box, adding a bit of cash and getting either a M2/3/4
    1 point
  36. 1 point
  37. don't worry about wear on a track tyre, nothing will last compared to a street tyre. You are heading out in summer for 20min sessions so you need a medium/hard or hard compound. Do you have a second set of rims or are they going on your dailies? I'd go cheapest 245/45/17 in the following order - Hankook z221, Yoko A050, Dunlop DZ03G, Kumho V70a, Bridgestone Re11s, Toyo 888R. There's a bunch of other ones but I don't know them and haven't seen them used seriously And let me know when, I'm just up the road and can drop by with some kitty litter for the oil down.
    1 point
  38. Im going to be that guy and say the opposite of dosepipe. AR1 bang for buck cant be beat. I seem to be able to have grip for 5-6 laps before needing a cool down lap. My best ever time was on lap 8. My current set has completed 190 laps so far and still look great. My first set went close to 300 laps, started going backwards at around 250. Unfortunately can't upload pics as the forum isn't allowing files larger than 2mb for some reason. Maybe the server has covid. But if you can get z221 handcocks cheap, then it's a no brainer.
    1 point
  39. I miss these twin turbo threads. 😭 Please come back Skidmark and Xkalaba? We need more misinformation!
    1 point
  40. Just put one of these on a rb30 powered drift car. Very good result on low boost (16psi) did QR matsuri with no issues so far.
    1 point
  41. So starting a separate build thread for the race car as its about to go through another small build/update. Original build starts around page 2 https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472170-robs-sil80-more-skyline-than-s-chassis/page/2/ The car has been great since originally putting it together but after 18 months of use it is showing a lot of signs of use. So after the last event it was showing signs of heavy blow by and lower compression since last compression test 150ish down to 115. Decided to pull the engine out and do a freshen up with rings, bearings and gaskets but after pulling off the turbo found oil had been leaking into both housings. After a bit of investigation I found the restrictor wasn't a restrictor but just an adapter 😅 Wasn't going to pull the motor down as found where the oil was coming from but I just kept thinking while the engines out......... Spent the afternoon stripping it down and I was surprised with what I found This was the worst of the 2 rod bearings and one of the mains had marks in it along with the exhaust cam. Cylinders 1 & 2 both had marks in the bores so hopefully honing will help. Seeing a machine shop later in the week to see what can be done. Will definitely be doing rods and pistons now. While the engines out I'll be tidying up the engine bay. Fix the hacked up cooler holes, dodgy tower repairs, clean up wiring and a new colour maybe silver or grey to help spot leaks. Specs as of 13 october 2020 Engine- sr20 arp headstuds metal head gasket gtx gen2 2867 1350cc injectors Aeroflow fuel reg walbro 460L Link G4+ ECU fmic 3 inch exhaust turbosmart BOV Driveline s14 5 speed NPC RB Heavy duty conversion clutch 4.3 diff ratio Nismo centre 5 bolt axels Suspension & brakes s15 5 stud urethane bushes MCA X-R coilovers whiteline sway bars kazama rear camber, toe & traction arms gktech castor arms r33 brakes unknown rotors Elig race pads front, street pads rear hel braided lines wheels & tyres TE37 17x9 +22 255 40 17 Advan A050 Inside Cobra suzuka seat 5 point harness AGI Half cage Defi guages- water & oil temp, oil pres & boost works bell quick release keys racing suede wheel battery in rear seat area
    1 point
  42. Ok bad news is all exhaust valves are leaking instead of one chamber and I measured the chamber 3 times 2 times came up as 64.5cc and 3rd time Between 64.2cc to 64.1cc I would say the 3rd one was more accurate but nothing less than 64cc for sure if the the standard chamber is 64.5 then I don’t think they skimmed the head that much? Also machine shop told me the head looks new and doesn’t look like it’s been used that much like a 25 year old head... So there’s a possibility that previous builders used a new head but the amount of carbon buildup on valves is actually a lot and I can tell the same thing on valve seats so might be the reason for leaking
    1 point
  43. Hopefully this works IMG_7048.MOV
    1 point
  44. Hey guys, I'm back with another tutorial that I made (thanks to isolation). This is on a how to swap the RB25 bottom end to a RB30 bottom end with a 25 head in a R34 (R33s and R32 should be kinda similar i think) that I did last year. I had to split the tutorial into 3 parts (each part is like 15mins). It starts with preping the RB30 block, to taking out the RB25, and then putting in the RB30/25 and starting it. The reason why I did an RB30 swap was not because of an upgrade but because my RB25 was showing up bad results on the comp tests and there were cheap RB30s going around (I actually made money out of selling parts from the RB30 that I didn't need lol). The goal for this car is only to be a daily responsive streeter on pump fuel (won't ever take it to the track). It's my first time ever doing something like this (I had no help, did this on my own), so take it as a guide line. If I were to do this again, I would definitely use a proper engine crane and take the whole engine out including the gearbox next time, but yeah... this was a real poor mans job and it got the job done and I've been driving this RB30/25DET Neo everyday to and from work as my daily and I've never had a problem with it (have been clocking 5000+ Kms on it as of 10/4/2020). Here's the videos: Part 1: Part 2: Part 3: I'm really happy with the outcome. Considering I knew nothing about RBs or any engine before I bought this R34. I learnt everything from researching (a shit load) on these forums, so thanks SAU, here's me giving back. The car ended up making 323.8 HP on the dyno with my OP6 highflow turbo which is a bit too small for this engine. So I will go with a bigger one in the near future. List of mods on my car previously that I brought over to the RB30 swap: HyperGear G2 RB25DET OP6 highflow turbo with ballbearing 3" turbo back exhaust 100mm thick FMIC Splitfire coil packs Xspurt 525cc injectors HDI EBC Nistune ECU Z32 AFM Walbro 255lph fuel pump (hard wire mod) 98RON Exedy HD clutch External oil cooler Koyorad all aluminum radiator Just something to add here on the side if anyone was interested (kinda like a build page, but I might as well put it here). This was my whole budget explained: So the total amount that I spent on this build/recon/swap was $3415. I bought a complete RB30 engine (without the box) for $150. Apparently this engine was used in a TAFE course for mechanic students to practise timing stuff on, so the pisons had heaps of screw driver marks on. A recon was in the picture anyways because I want this engine to last for ages. So I only wanted to keep the block, crank and rods. I sold everything els (head, alternator, ecu ect) for $240. That's already a profit of $90 lol! The reconditioning of the RB30 block and RB25 head was the most expensive out of the whole budget costing $1420. The recon from Harris Engines in Perth: $400 - Bore and torque plate hone $190 - Face block $180 - Machine and fit crank collar $90 - Acid bath $90 - Face/deck RB25 head $50 - Acid bath head $90 - Face flywheel $150 - Fitment of pistons to rods $180 - Balance rotating assembly All other things: $270 - 1mm oversized Hypatec RB30ET set of pistons + Hastings Rings $253.45 - RB25 ARP Head stud kit (202-4301) from wolf racing $261.25 - RB25DET Neo genuine nissan gasket kit $106.49 - RB30 ACL race main STD bearing set $88 - RB30 ACL race conrod STD bearing set $30 - RB30 small end rod bushes/bearing set $99 - RB crank collar from Lewis Engines $38.75 - RB oil restrictors (one 1.5mm and one blank one) $38 - RB30 brass welsh plugs $13.71 - RB spigot bush $38.98 - RB genuine nissan timing belt fastner kit $41.5 - genuine nissan thermostat $78.14 - Genuine nissan R34 pull type thrust bearing $110.5 - Genuine nissan RB25 exhaust manifold fastner kit $43.2 - Dayco 94407 (T866) timing belt $72.11 - Mamba RB30/25 turbo water braided line kit $81.59 - Braided -4AN hose + fittings for the external VTC feed from Enzed $330 - Dyno tuned car by C-Red in Perth All of the labour except for the recon and tuning was done by me.
    1 point
  45. Use one without Covid 19.
    1 point
  46. Just a dodgy camera phone photo, but finishing off the carbon fibre engine dressings. Just need to give it a clean up. Has been a bit neglected lately. Need to wait for the cam covers to yellow a bit to match the coilpack and cam gear covers though 2017-05-16_02-51-25 by
    1 point
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