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  1. Hi guys, im a Brit who’s been using this forum for a while. I’m after some help so thought I’d come on and introduce myself. my name is Paddy and I’m an old man (46)! I own an R34 GTT in cloud white. Had it a good few years and do enjoy driving it! Also enjoy the attention it gets. for those of you who are interested I’ve posted a couple of pics. Not the best pics in the world and they seem to of come out worse than the originals but you get the picture Will post my issues in the relevant forum. I hope you guys can offer some advice. thanks.
    3 points
  2. PRP Tesla motor conversion with BILLET Samsonas adaptor plate. 6 Speed Tesla electric motor.
    3 points
  3. Been slack lately. Have done a lot but achieved nothing if that makes sense? I'm playing around with a few ideas which are time and brain cell destroying... What I have done first- Make an alloy pointer for pin point timing. Will most likely powdercoat it then put a white/silver tip. Powdercoated a few more bits and pieces for installation. Temp fit the exhaust manifold and turbo so I can make the PRP turbo oil drain fit out of the car. Needed to order some new fittings for the block so waiting on those. Had to get the intake plenum flange machined as it was warped from when it was welded up in production. Snapped the dipstick tube off in the block. Don't want to talk about it.... Sump off AGAIN and dipstick tube ordered..... Started rewiring the engine from the engine end also AGAIN, allowing for some additional inputs plus that leads onto the next part I'm still pondering.... So I want to somewhat "wire tuck" the engine bay and there really isn't a nice place to put bulkhead fittings on the drivers side to stop any wires running across the back of the firewall. So...... What I'm thinking is having 2 bulkhead fittings remote mounted under the brake booster and pretty much out of sight that also enable easy removal of the engine (cause GT-R....). I haven't entirely convinced myself it's the right option yet but strongly leaning that way. Feel free to offer your thoughts or rain down the hate! 😅 Made a few templates and trial runs to get it to where I think it would work if I do it- I've pretty much resigned to the fact that I'm painting the engine bay too.... 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️
    3 points
  4. It's noticable when cruising, I haven't launched or laid 11's yet though The car is going in to get the trans shift points played with to suit the new gears next Monday Monday afternoon will possibly have a launch and skid involved.....or 2......for scientific research purposes of course I'm going on a 600km Hwy run on Thursday, I'm curious if there will be a noticable difference in L/ 100 km, not that it's important, but currently it's around 11L=100 km on the Hwy ATM Hopefully hit WSID on 02 Feb, seeing if it helps the 60' a bit is the big one I'm looking at
    2 points
  5. I'll be running Targa this year. Once the cage is done most stuff will just be trasplanted from the old shell
    2 points
  6. No Samsonas or BMW DCT or PRP catalogue. Do better.
    2 points
  7. I mean cmon, other than the uh, lets just say _period correct_ gauge choices (i.e 2005) the rest of it is fine for a however year old car it is, being 30+ and you know actually driven. Little scuffs happen, you should see the state of every other Skyline actually used nowadays. Plenty of money in that engine bay too, also using mid 00's tech, which is still 15 years newer than the car is. Looking back at the mod list, I'm not surprised that it was once a demo car. Lets just take into consideration that an old demo car is still up and moving around in a world where most die.. young 😛 Bonnet clearly closes, it's closed at the start of the video Yes it looks like the compressor cover fouls, which again is likely due to its initial fitment being a demo car. Clearance it and send it 😛 One minor scratch in one guard, doors looked fine enough from a side glance. Scars are cool sometimes, they're made to be driven etc. Probably worth more than 80k usd tbh lol. You don't want a car you're scared to actually use!
    2 points
  8. I'm probably going to stick to the 6466 then with a twin scroll .83. IF it does disintegrate as a lot of you are saying it probably will then ill go with a G35 of some kind. Id rather have good response and if I ever want more power down the line then ill move up.
    2 points
  9. Just extend the reverse cowl in perspex up over the windscreen and roof so it sucks instead of blows. Can't look any worse than it does now!
    2 points
  10. Can you believe Marko , And I'm still wasting money on it lol
    2 points
  11. Temporarily assembled most of the engine to help get my head around what is required for wiring in new stuff (DBW, EMAP sensor, etc). Looks almost pretty! Will be powdercoating the Taarks intercooler clamp black (was supplied purple with DBW setup...). I've never played with one before, they're actually pretty cool how they work! Puts a fair bit of strain on a not fully compressed o-ring but I guess they do what they promise!!??
    2 points
  12. 2 points
  13. When you first turn the ignition on, the system learns the closed position on the throttle and the pedal. As far as I know, it doesn't cycle the throttle butterfly. As for the issue, you need to get the codes read. there are many faults that can trigger the symptoms you are seeing. Randomly throwing parts at it and hoping to hit the right item can get very expensive.
    2 points
  14. EFI Solutions aka Taarks have a great kit just for that. Better to have facts/data before making a decision. https://www.efisolutions.com.au/exhaust-pressure-sensor-pulse-damper-emap
    2 points
  15. This car will never run with this motor, by 2026 you'll be fitting Tesla motors to it lol
    2 points
  16. That drive will be good to see economy. Need videos of scientific testing, I'm sure it will be conducted in a controlled environment with safety equipment........ Hopefully get that 11, take an esky with a few bags of ice to help cool it in the lanes.
    1 point
  17. Lucky enough to get a film of this one - hopefully the first of many this year! Possibly extremely rare block detailed in the video
    1 point
  18. Funny story The above added ventilation has increased my IAT by 5°c and my coolant, which typically sits at about 90°c, was at 97°c After doing some hasty wool tuft testing, it seems kow when at speeds over 40kph the reverse cowl works very well at sucking in air, pressurising the engine compartment, and reducing the efficiency of radiator stack quite well I assume my trans temps would have raised as well as the air to oil trans coolers efficiency would have been effected as well So, lucky I have the spare bonnet that will be getting the frame modified to give me some clearance Marks bad idea #943: Fitting a reverse cowl scoop LOL 🤯 lol pics of driving around with wools stuck to the car or it didn't happen
    1 point
  19. More progress with intercooler pipes modified and power steering setup sorted Intake pipe is going to be a tight fit
    1 point
  20. Haha, I just turned 43, hope to finish the car before I retire 🤣🤣
    1 point
  21. Yeah I look haggard as fu(# from slaving away for pay for my nugget.... Could also be from being 44 but blaming the car gives me an outlet to be offended towards. I'm entitled to be offended.
    1 point
  22. Yes, but are all the bulbs actually working? There is a function built into INDICATOR flasher units to make them flash fast when a globe is out. That is not necessarily replicated in the hazard flasher. And of course, if the bulbs are all fine and working, then the flasher unit is most likely to blame.
    1 point
  23. 1 point
  24. Video is cool, great job by your little man 👍🏼
    1 point
  25. Been there done that, got the oil stains to prove it In other news Spacers and a thermal blanket have been ordered, Issue: not enough clearance So fark it....chop chop time So, as I have a spare bonnet anyway, which will be receiving some professional love next month, not Mark love with a power tool, I decided to get the grinder with a cutting disc out and on it to make some clearance myself...LOL Power tools are fun Lucky OEM bonnets are cheap 30 minutes later......... I'll grab some pinchweld to tidy up the edges tomorrow
    1 point
  26. The 32 has the same pick up points as the s13 that were changed in the 33/34 to being the same as the 14/15 i know a lot of the fast 32s have changed it
    1 point
  27. Yeah I’m thinking if the mufflers were still in and bov doing what it’s supposed to it would be fine, but I also thought just freeing up the exhaust wouldn’t be enough to cause the cut. Definitely thinking of putting the bov back on to see what happens but I did notice with my butt dyno the car felt a lot faster but then the cuts started happening too. love the r31s man, sure it didn’t sound too bad with the mufflers but I know what you mean lol adding a muffler or two just makes the sounds that little bit better. had to buy a pack of earplugs when I had my Lexus, started to notice my ears ringing after I drove it a few times. have been quite lucky with Cops in my decatted cars somehow don’t know how cause one of em use to set off car alarms! Yeah I think for my next car I’ll just get highflow cats instead of test pipes, just like the cheapness of the test pipes cause some highflow cats can get really expensive.
    1 point
  28. You could go the g30 900 and then you’ll have the same size exhaust wheel as your current turbo and a smaller front wheel then your current turbo and still have the ability to make a lot more power
    1 point
  29. As I said, I'm not trying to talk you out of it. Just pointing out that you should not get your hopes up that a small 6 cylinder twin cam is going to make it feel like a proper sports car. I have no doubt that if you pay someone big money they can be made to make good power. Look at the old Holden 202 - they are pushing well over 300HP out of those nowadays. But back in my day (the 80s) it was a struggle to get 200HP out of them. People learnt what to do to make them make power. But it costs. There hasn't been a heap of development into making NA RBs make a lot of power, because.....the lure of the turbo reveals how poor the value proposition is. Yes, they sound bloody awesome revving to the moon through open ram tubes and long primary extractors. But the time taken to run from the bottom of the rev range to the top of the rev range reveals that they don't make a lot of power doing it. Listen too the Hakosuka video for the nearest example.
    1 point
  30. Well seeing as I couldn’t go to work because of getting beer flu I decided to work on the gtr once I had enough energy. Pulled the rest of the interior out and removed the battery wiring, the battery tray ready to re wire the entire boot. Then I fitted the surge tank in the corner of the boot then started plumbing the tank into the fuel lines I already had I had to wait for 60° fitting to do the last line as it wouldn’t run where I wanted it to without it I’ll be wiring in some solid state relays and etc, just need the engine to turn up and the new wiring harness before I wire it all up
    1 point
  31. Yeah being Merican it won't go around corners. Self drive might improve my changes of driving it in a straight line though!
    1 point
  32. That is correct Dasmbo, the machine shop that examined it said few journals would have to be welded and built up, then machined back. The damage had the machinist questioning the integrity of a few of the cam cap retaining bolt locations... Basically said if it was a Ferrari, sure, the money and time would be worth it. Not for an RB26 head.
    1 point
  33. Resolution to the question. While still waiting for those closer photos of the journals/caps, I got into contact with the guy from the repair shop, and he outlined pretty much what Brett/R32-25t said, though in a very diplomatic manner 😅 Head is not worth the money seller wants, maybe only worth as a very cheap experiment to someone with the means and the time to try something crazy on. A bit more to the story, but another case of making sure people should do their homework before buying anything second hand, and again making me very grateful this site exists.
    1 point
  34. HFM ae going to get a price for me on some 18x10 +10 forged rims, I' impressed they are even willing to entertain the idea.
    1 point
  35. looking good mate keep up the good work i like following this thread.
    1 point
  36. There are literally dozens of aftermarket throttlebodies in DCOE carby format. The RB26 ITBs are so very very close to the DCOE bolt pattern that it is difficult to believe that Nissan came that close and didn't actually just use the DCOE pattern. Then, you can look at just about any EFI motorbike from Suzuki, Yamaha, Honda, etc that used single throttles, in whatever size floats your boat. 45mm? 48mm? Larger? They're all out there. Just build manifold and plenum and linkages to suit. As for compression and cams - the larger the cam duration, the more compression you can run. Just sayin'. And as for cost for bottom end.....8500 rpm is well within the limits of the stock bottom end. Especially NA. It won't cost much to make it good for >9000. Just need some light pistons and some moderately strong rods and bolts. On the subject of VCT.....all RB25s have it (except for the very first ones in the R32). The vanilla 25s in the R33 era cars were all VCT. There's almost no difference in the VCT between vanilla and Neo engines. The difference between Neos and vanilla 25s is that the Neos have solid lifters, a different included angle in the valves with a shallow combustion chamber. And in the NAs.....not particularly good flowing ports. I would not write off the power potential of an L series vs an RB25DE though, neo or not. 2.8L & 3L (and larger) L series builds, even running Mikunis, have made really large power. There is nothing wrong with the single cam engines. The twin cams are not inherently a massive leap in power potential.
    1 point
  37. I wouldn’t go near it, there’s a reason he’s left the cams in, the 3rd journal on the intake cam is stuffed and the 1st, 2nd journal on the exhaust are pretty bad and the 3rd and 4th aren’t far behind them
    1 point
  38. I've never used or seen that kit. project mu have a serious reputation in braking but there is a lot of information missing from that listing like type and style of dogbone, is the disc solid or full floating to the hats etc. It also mentions they run '1 synchronised pad per piston' which sounds overly complex solution to a non-problem to me. Also no information on price or availability of replacement pads or rotor rings If I was looking for something that serious I'd go AP racing or perhaps Brembo as they have plenty of users and good availability, but in any case something like Just Jap ATTKD are proven and less than half the price (assuming that listing is USD)
    1 point
  39. I'm hoping to fix it with gearing to start with, well, a bit anyway, if I can get it to shift thru 1-2-3 and not hit a limiter when it is wheel spinning then all is well It has a large PWR trans cooler so trans temps should be fine I do periodical checks on my trans fluid, it is always nice and clean and smells like trans fluid, not that burnt redy brown colour or that burnt chemical smell from cooked trans fluid In other IAT related news: To fit a interchiller on the HTV2300- VX SS combination, and for it to work efficiently, I need to fit thermal spacers, hell, for the HTV2300 to work efficiently even without a interchiller it needs thermal spacers. Not a big issue, you would think, and not that expensive, BUT, and it's a big but and I cannot lie, after alot more measuring up, the blower is now already slightly touching the underbonnet insulation The only way to fit the thermal spacers is to chop out the section under the cowl, see pic This highlights another issue, I was going to go back to a "stock" bonnet, well.....that ain't happening now Lessons learnt: don't get a downward discharge blower like mine, if I was going to do it again I would still go a blower, but an upwards discharge like on the LSA or a Magnuson TL;DR: Dooh, time to get the cutting discs out, chop chop on my loverly new underbonnet insulation and then pinchweld the world.....again LOL
    1 point
  40. Smaller lift pump and stage the 2 main pumps will help alot or for a cheap fix fit a cooler. Can you monitor fuel temps with either a temp sensor or ethanol content sensor? I see temps upto 55C at track and around 43-47c on the street
    1 point
  41. Hi there I had a similar issue with my V36. The problem was worse in stop start traffic, rough idle, revving up and them stalling. (But only sometimes) It seemed like the fuel mixture was way too rich. Did all resets, replaced most sensor's, and the throttle bodies. No change at all. No fault code's. Someone mentioned fuel pressure regulator. (Did a pressure test, 52lb at idle) So I removed pump bucket from the tank, BINGO the FPR was badly corroded. The fix.....ordered the fuel line return kit from CJ Motor Sport, and fitted an under bonnet fuel regulator. Also a new fuel pump. Problem solved. Try YouTube The Aussie Shed. He shows the complete job in great detail. Hope this helps
    1 point
  42. Don't just ask the question. Put a temp sensor in the hot side pipe and find out what temperature the turbo is producing. *(But otherwise, all advice above is also valid).
    1 point
  43. And check out ebay USA...they are asking [maybe getting, I don't know] insane prices for used spare parts. Its only going to impact here more and more. So a bare shell could end up costing you sheep stations.
    1 point
  44. Did it at least come with (all) the parts needed to make the bare shell not bare? Because quite a lot of Skyline stuff is vanishing into the US gobble-it-up market. It can be hard to find all the stuff you need, if you need a lot of it.
    1 point
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