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  1. 5 points
    Look down.....on the left hand side of the drivers seat is a thing called a gear lever.....if you master how to use this then you can increase your street response without affecting top end power!!! Seriously you are trying to split the atom....you already have a great motor and setup. If that's not enough then try the std cams and reco'ed VCT like everyone suggests before selling any kidneys and buying stuff!!!
  2. 4 points
    Hi made 554 rwkw 6466 gen2 32went 10.4 @140.7mph on a 1.8360foot was happy with mph Done a 1.52 60 foot snapped rear left shaft was really chasing a 9 on stock bottom end Tuned at jem
  3. 4 points
    Little bit of work today, been so busy ive been unable to work on the car but when I can I do. Fixed up where the front bumper marries up to the fenders, it was buggered on both sides but now sits flush. Took her for a bit of a spirited drive today also and she didn't miss a beat!
  4. 4 points
    Hi My new car, I bought it about 6 weeks ago. Since ownership I have installed MCA race prime coilovers with 14kg front 8kg rear springs Performance friction 2 piece front rotors Performance friction 11 pads front and rear HEL braided lines Winmax race spec brake fluid New 18x10 +15 wheels Hankook RS4 tyres 275 35 18 Varex muffler MODIFICATIONS WHEN I BOUGHT IT (completely legal - permits for everything including externally venting blow-off valves). · Nismo 320KM Dash · “A” pillar gauge cluster with HKS boost gauge and exhaust temp gauge’s. · Momo steering wheel, boss and gear shifter knob. · Rays Gram light F57 wheels (18x9) FOR SALE · Trust front bar, skirts and Veilside rear bar (with low drag underbody shielding and brake cooling deflectors). · Exeedy twin plate clutch and flywheel. · Exhaust – full 4” stainless system, with custom cat and Xforce stainless 3” 2 to 1 y piece from dumps. · Garrett Steel wheel turbo’s, Extrude honed and ceramic coated manifolds, Xforce stainless dump pipes with separate waste gate pipe work. · Engine Gear train - OS Giken Adjustable cam gears, · Tomei Cams installed and tuned · Tomei dual feed billet fuel rail, 700cc Sard injectors Sard rising rate fuel regulator with pressure gauge and Sard hi-flow in-tank fuel pump. · Silicone Splitfire coil packs · Crank case ventilation - Rocker cover baffles, Cusco primary and secondary oil catch cans. · Blue ceramic coated rocker covers and valley cover. · PWR 57mm radiator · Earls front mounted engine oil cooler with thermostat, remote mounted engine oil filter housing, Earls stainless braded hose & fittings. · HKS front mount intercooler · HKS Aluminium intercooler piping. · HKS twin Sequential blow-off valves. · Custom intake piping. · New upsize Z32 airflow meters. · Apexi pod filter, aluminium AFM adaptors and carbon fibre filter separator housing. · Cusco master cylinder brace · engine brace/dampener · Apexi Power FC hand controller · Greddy Electronic boost controller · Apexi turbo timer · Vehicle Dynamics Processor installed – ECM with G-force meter · Immobiliser & Alarm system. · Pioneer in dash CD/DVD/Sat nav
  5. 4 points
    Man, I really did let this thread go for a while without updates! So first mods: ..... Nope, changed absolutely nothing since the nismo wheels in 2015. Second: Use Well Kel was driving it every day to work in Sydney and it was super reliable, never needed anything at service. Still ran at about $2 per day average to charge it for a 50klm round trip. Perfect commuter car. Then the NSW Hillclimb champs created an electric car class, so we decided the only fair thing to do was enter it and take the car racing all over the state. Kel and I both raced it and were the only electric entrants at most rounds other than a homemade electric "special" that did a couple of them. Since the championship rewards attending rounds, I won that and Kel came second. Whole bunch of vids on my youtube if you like quiet motorsport, eg this run from Bathurst As far as I was concerned, with a 1600kg, 80kw race car I was happy with any round where we didn't come last. At Kempsey we were top 20 in the wet. Last year we did the Hillclimb series again, but this time with a set of soft semi slicks (yokos) to go a tiny bit faster. We did end up with quicker times at every track except Huntley which was flat throttle all the way, even on the road tyres. Again I won the state champs and Kel dished it up to me at one of the rounds too. And we were 11th of about 120 entrants at Grafton in the wet, the car was a f**king ball. Pretty sad I didn't have the camera on because it was sliding around like crazy and you would have heard my laughter for sure the helmet. This year we are not going to be able to make every round although we are entered for r4 at Kempsey next weekend. Also, there is a Tesla Model S racing which is naturally destroying our records from the last 2 years. But we will still go and have fun. We also did a couple more motorkhanas including the nulon nats where we ran top 10 as well. So it's no good for top speed but it is competitive in tight stuff.
  6. 4 points
    Hey SAU, I'm Tarun, a Nissan freak based in country VIC. I'm also the web developer behind the scenes at Joel's Garage Gear. When I'm not busy helping Joel sell workshop equipment I am usually found playing with rear wheel drive Japanese cars. One of my goals for 2018 is to get back in to club racing again. The Albury Wodonga Car Club hosts the Rapid Lap Dash series each year of which I've previously had great fun driving at a few of their events. At the time my Nissan Silvia was simply a street car with budget tyres and a welded differential. So this year it's time to get a little bit more serious about it all. In the past I've had to find the fine balance between making the car competitive as well as making sure it remained roadworthy. But while it's convenient to be able to drive to and from the track, there is nothing like having a dedicated track car with no limitations. Sticking with the same s-chassis platform that I've had experience with in the past the latest 180SX should be a lot more fun once it's properly set up. And by 'properly set up' I really mean built at home by an enthusiast with no formal mechanical knowledge. I do have a 2 post hoist from Joel which makes most jobs a lot easier. It will play a vital role in this build and I couldn't imagine doing it without it. Underneath the dust and cobwebs is a fairly straight shell that has already had a cage welded in and the interior stripped out of it. The previous owner gave up on it and let it sit for the best part of 2 years. So it will require a good service and a tune before it will be ready for track duties. Under the bonnet is a mildly worked SR20DET that came in this chassis from the factory. I didn't get much history with the car but from a quick visual inspection I can see that it has been treated to an upgraded T28 turbo and an aftermarket exhaust manifold. The restrictive AFM has been removed in favour of a MAP sensor and it has bigger injectors installed along with new coil packs. In addition it also has an ECU managed boost control solenoid which should make things fun! The real star of the show however is the standalone Vi-Pec ECU installed to control the updated setup. This will allow me to have the car professionally dyno tuned to get the best performance out of it whilst keeping the engine safe. Before we begin to worry about all of that though, first we need to be able to stop. Luckily I have a couple of R33 Skylines laying around that I can borrow the brakes from. The thing I love about 90's Nissan's is the interchangeability of parts between models. The larger brakes from the Skyline will literally bolt on to the Silvia with not much effort at all. What it will also do is convert my wheel stud pattern from 4x114.3 to 5x114.3 which is exactly what I need as I plan on running 17x9 wheels from an R33 GTR Skyline in order to fit some meaty 255/40/R17 semi slick tyres. The wheels are currently away being powder coated. So I need to get the 5 stud swap done before they get back. I managed to shuffle a few cars around to get the 180SX on the hoist ready to begin race prep. The shell already has a welded in roll cage which is a great start! The first thing I decided to do was to strip out the factory air conditioning system to lose a few kilos - 15.8kg to be exact. I then borrowed the suspension from another S13 project that I had laying around. These BC Racing coilovers are in excellent condition and should do their job nicely. A common problem with lowering a Silvia is that the tyres manage to eat through the wiring loom. I've had this happen to me once and I don't plan on going through that ordeal again. So I tucked them up out of harms way. The next step was addressing the brake and suspension upgrades that I had planned. Lucky, because the factory hubs and brakes had seen better days. A quick lick of paint had these calipers that I took from the R33 looking new again. A few deliveries then turned up which meant I could finally make a start on the suspension overhaul. The tub of my Datsun 1200 ute makes for great storage space. I began by removing the stock front arms and suspension components. I then removed the inner tie rods and added some lock spacers to give the car a little more steering angle. I then installed some 5 stud conversion hubs so that I could keep the stock S13 knuckle rather than having to upgrade it to an S14 item due to the difference in the size of the spindle. I then added the front brakes from the R33 Skyline and hooked up the new braided brake lines from GK Tech. I'm also running a 15mm hub centric bolt on spacer so that the R33 GTR wheels won't rub on the springs of the coilover suspension. It didn't take long to have the front suspension and 5 stud conversion completed. The car now has adjustable lower control arms, brand new drop links for the anti-roll bar, adjustable coilovers, adjustable tension rods and adjustable tie rod ends. It has lock spacers in the steering rack and larger 4 pot brake calipers. Quite an upgrade! With all this new found adjustability one thing is for certain - I need someone who knows what they're doing to adjust it. I may have slightly over estimated how wide I needed the front track to be. Soon it was time to tackle the rears. A bit more effort was required to convert these to being 5 stud and using the Skylines rear handbrake setup. Once again I began by removing the stock arms and whilst I had good access I decided to install the slip on collars for the rear sub frame. These will stiffen up the old factory rubber bushes somewhat without the need to remove the entire rear sub frame assembly. Very handy as I'm pushed for time! The next step was to remove the rear hubs and handbrake assemblies from the R33 rear knuckles and transfer them on to the S13 rear knuckles as they are slightly different due to the Skyline having rear wheel steering. This wasn't the most fun task as they were fairly well bonded together over the years - But I got there in the end. By now the rear arms were also taking shape so I took the time out to install a very light weight exhaust to replace the old rusted out mild steel one that it came with. It is now 3 inch all the way from the turbo back. Did I mention that the wheels came back from being powder coated? Or that the Type X replica body kit was delivered? All these parts came just in time as the car had to be at the body shop by the weekend. So with a few more hours put in on Saturday bleeding the brakes and setting up the handbrake cables the conversion was complete and it was ready to go! The 180SX is now headed over to the body shop to be resprayed. We can't wait to see how the car looks with a fresh coat of paint and the new race livery. It has been a busy couple of weeks getting the suspension done in my spare time but I'm very happy with the new setup. The car should now handle like it's on rails after the alignment is tweaked. Without the 2 Post Hoist these suspension jobs would have taken a lot longer to complete. In my opinion it is by far the best investment any hands on car enthusiast can make! Well after a good few weeks since the suspension got done the car is now painted and looks fantastic! Unfortunately I have now missed out on driving it at the first two rounds of the AWDCC Rapid Lap Dash series due to a few set backs that prevented me from getting it ready on time for those races. Still, we're aiming to have it out of the shed and onto the race track very soon! This was how it looked being stripped down ready for paint a few weeks ago: The body kit for the 180SX is a mix of both KMAK Aero & ORIGIN Labo parts. Both of which are fantastic quality as far as fiberglass kits go. Making use of our Sheet Metal Guillotine and Pan Brake Folder I decided to have a go at making some replacement door cards for the now stripped out interior. They came out looking great! The body was then cut and welded to accommodate the wider rear track. Both the front and rear are running 30mm wider guards. The body was painted 'Aurora Blue' and the interior was painted 'Ice White' which gives it a really neat and clean look. It also matches our logo colors well which will allow the graphics to tie into the paint job nicely once the paint has cured. Once it returned home it was time to fit the rest of the type X body kit and connect the body loom back in place. I will also be installing my race seat and 6 point harness shortly as well. Once that's done I just need to service the engine with fresh oil and spark plugs plus a new waterpump, thermostat, radiator and coolant and it will be ready to be sent off for a dyno tune and a wheel alignment. Thats all for now, I will try to be active on here from now on so stay tuned for the next update where we will hopefully see what kind of power it makes!
  7. 4 points
    Dafuq? He wants someone to tell him. Not to figure it out by himself.
  8. 3 points
    I would recommend: 1. Take photos of it with an inch of dust on everything. 2. Repair it back to as stock as you can make it. 3. Call it a survivor car. 4. Profit.
  9. 3 points
    What fuel are you running, and what manifold/flange? What is the existing turbo? In some ways it'll come down to how cheap/easy you want to do it etc. If you have a T3 manifold I'd be inclined to suggest a Gen2 GTX3071R if you aren't really looking to go past 300kw @ wheels.
  10. 3 points
    Os giken triple plate whoever says they are hard to drive needs to grow a set, found it better or smoother and lighter then my previous direct clutches billet twin plate
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