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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/24/2018 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    With GT-R values soaring in Japan I made the decision close to two years ago to start seriously hunting for the cleanest BCNR33 I could find. I knew if I waited any longer there would be no possibility of ever being able to afford one. I enlisted the services of Iron Chef & the initial scope was a Grade 4 or 4.5 S3 97/98 GTR in Black; but this essentially was like trying to find a needle in a haystack. A few months into the search after seeing Piggaz 33R, I changed my mind and started searching for a QM1 White car. As each week went by it became more & more difficult to find cars worth inspecting, and when they were inspected, they almost always had issues with rust underneath and/or strut tower rust and/or structural seam weld rust. Around the half-yearly mark, a 97 QM1 S3 caught our eye though we missed out on that and then found it a dealership in Japan for around the $60k mark. I then spoke to ImportR from SAU about his S3 GT-R, but while initially entertaining selling it he didn't have the heart to part with it. Alongside Steve's 7000km S3, his 33R would have to be the next cleanest out there. Around the 14 month mark I'd started giving up hope and was toying with the idea of S8 RX-7's, but then I received an email from Iron Chef regarding a '96 QM1 Prostock R33 GT-R up for auction at USS Tokyo. The auction grade was 4.5 with 49,000kms & service history. The car just looked like a complete showstopper and upon inspecting it in the metal - Kristian, Troy & Myself realised 'this is the car'. After a bidding war the car was mine, & then slowly I started finding out about it's very interesting history. I have since been in contact with Prostock Motorsports who provided details about the build & the fact that the previous owner is very happy & suprised the car has ended up in Australia. The GT-R spent it's entire life in Tokyo & this thread will present the two year period where the car was completely overhauled.The car was maintained at Nissan Prince Tokyo from it's beginnings and then sent by the owner (an older gentleman) to the GT-R Specialist ProStock Motorsports in Saitama Japan for a full overhaul in 2016. The invoices of the work was jaw-dropping, for many people it would be considered a once-in-a-lifetime build & after driving it - I feel it's the perfectly setup street car. After a visit to Rigolis, they described it as one of the cleanest GT-R's they've ever seen. Nearly every single part has been replaced with brand new, while the undercarriage & seam seals remain original without rust (even the strut towers). Thankfully, the chassis rails haven't been jacked like nearly every other GT-R either. There is a little bit of minor surface rust in a couple of small spots, which is why I suspect the car may have been stored outside at some point in its life. But that was always expected, my S15 which has been in Australia since new has the exact same. After a 4 hour marathon at the RTA which took a supervisor to overrule their know-it-all yet clueless staff member on RAWS importing rules & regs; the car was registered and the first drive was so damn sweet. As for the exterior, I absolutely love it and photo's don't do it justice. The paintwork is original & this was confirmed with a micrometer yesterday. As for my future plans, I haven't even been thinking about it - I love the car as it is, it's been an amazing experience to drive & I'm sure I'll never be able to part with it. The Skyline GT-R is a very special car when you can find the right one, so good luck to whoever else is searching for one & thanks for reading
  2. 7 points
    Small update, I finished the exhaust manifolds, ages ago actually maybe February and for whatever reason I don't have photos of them but I'm sure you can all use your imagination. I still need to make the pipe work that connects from the exhaust manifolds to the turbo and wastegate though. I have been working on my inlet manifold and it's pretty much done now. Next is to make some top feed fuel rails with short top feed injectors, finish exhaust piping to turbo and order some r35 gtr coils. See you in a few months..
  3. 7 points
    So finally been getting somewhere recently.. Received all my parts back from Japan, just waiting on piston pins to come back from getting DLC'd.. Went with ATI 1000hp Balancer instead of the Ross due to some disturbing issues I have seen. All bottom end parts have been WPC treated. And now the block is getting line bored with this beast...
  4. 6 points
  5. 6 points
    So some tuning happened today and successful testing of the billet alloy brace from PRP, we had solid/consistent oil pressure the whole time. Proper test will be on the track then pull down after a 6 months to see how the bearings look etc Here's a short pull, found that one of the pumps could be on its' way out and will be looked at tomorrow then replaced etc. video-1558513230.mp4
  6. 6 points
    This is the most pointless exercise ever, and i love it. I couldn't have even dreamed of anyone trying to measure knock with a jaycar multimeter. Also love your 20/20 hindsight knowledge. Everything anyone posts you 'already knew'. Good luck figuring it out!
  7. 6 points
    Panel & paint all done !
  8. 6 points
  9. 6 points
    Still playing with the front flares.
  10. 5 points
  11. 5 points
    I used to come into here to find what people had tried and what was needed to run to get 'x' power so might help some looking to push rb25 and a real world example Comparison between old GTX3076 0.82 with spitfires and std CAS vs GTX3582 Gen ll 0.82 with Audi R8 coils and new CAS This is for circuit car - anything else I think the (new or old) GTX 3076 is pretty solid for 450 to high 500hp's Done on a roller : Old GTX 3076 0.82 setup on 24.5 psi - 550hp and 620nm - was awesome overall - good response - noses over at 7K New GTX3582 gen ll 0.82 on 23 psi - 570hp on 26 psi 663.5hp and 700nm - havent driven it yet but woke up with psi and wanted to keep making powas Relevant things: Rb25 built Poncams Audi R8 coils New CAS 6 Boost Bosch 1600 cc Injectiors Plasmaman plenum Koyo Rad PWR 500 x 300 intercooler 2" piping 3" straight through exh 45 Ext gate to screamer GTX3582 0.82 Gen ll PPG 5 speed dog box 4.11 diff ratio
  12. 5 points
    Hello guys and gals! My name is Luis and and I am a proud happy owner of a 1995 BCNR33 Midnight Purple V-spec GT-R. I currently live in Zushi Kanagawa Japan and love driving my car around Yokohama and Tokyo area. I can't wait to do a full restoration on the car in a few years to come. Current mods are: EXPREME Ti TITANIUM exhaust JUNYAN LED tail lights 400R style front lip and side skirt GReddy PRofec boost controller GReddy turbo timer Trust GReddy AIRINX B Type Intake Filter I look forward to keeping you all updated on my future additions to my car.
  13. 5 points
    Hey fellas. New to the forum, I drive a 2001 Skyline R34 GTR and have had it since late 2018. She's completely stock standard apart from a HKS front pipe, custom hi-flow cat and Tomei Ti cat-back! Here's a few pics:
  14. 5 points
    So tuning is complete for our goal.. On pump 98 made 427kw @ 26psi.. E85 made 538kw @ 30psi but backed it off to 520kw @ 28psi Now just want to drive it around and enjoy it and experience it on circuit! video-1560908421.mp4 video-1560910856.mp4
  15. 5 points
    Funny you write this now D I've been thinking about what to do for the 20 year anniversary!!! 😮 At the risk of sounding emotional, Its people like you and the others in this thread (sans slap) that make it worthwhile. 👍
  16. 5 points
    Ok. New donk in and run in. RB30/25 NEO Aries forged pistons spool h Beam rods arp studs top and bottom rebuilt crank ported neo head 260 pon cams 1000 cc injectors Walbro 460 fuel pump retained vct spitfire coil packs bcpr7eix plugs 1.3mm head gasket. 8.55 to 1 comp. 3 1/2" dump to 3" straight through exhaust hom ney special clutch neo 5 speed box. Engine and box is in a LX gtr torana. Runs 3.36 diff gears. Made 350rwhp with 5000rpm limiter and zero timing adjustment and 14psi boost pump 98 Going in on Monday the 17th for final tune. Going to run 22psi on pump 98. Will add dyno diggers on Monday night.
  17. 5 points
    For f**k's sake Slap. You cannot measure frequency with voltages. You just cannot. It is time for you to let the big boys carry on and go play with your pathetic ideas quietly by yourself. Almost all of those ideas have no place in the real world anymore, as we have no need to bandaid shitty solutions to problems that can be fixed by proper selection and adjustment of the correct equipment.
  18. 5 points
    It was a very nismo christmas this year! Lu spoilt me rotten by buying me a Nismo speedo cluster I also treated myself to some Nismo goodies from Nengun and Yahoo Auctions Spent Boxing Day afternoon fitting it all Which brings me to my next mini update, engine cover stickers! Keeping with the Nismo theme, i purchased an R33 strut brace with brake stopper on eBay. The brace had certainly seen better days so i started to refurb it. And heres the finished item Another little change I made was to swap the bulb in the ignition barrel to an amber one, to help match the red/orange illumination in the cabin
  19. 4 points
  20. 4 points
    This has been discussed AD NAUSEUM in the last 6 pages mate, you could at least read them. (Ad nauseam is a Latin term for argument or other discussion that has continued to the point of nausea. For example, "this has been discussed ad nauseam" indicates that the topic has been discussed extensively and those involved have grown sick of it.)
  21. 4 points
    While we are at it, why don't we just stop tuning ignition maps? Set the whole thing to 40 degrees and let the knock control sort it out!
  22. 4 points
    Hi everyone, this is my build #2 R32 GTR V-Spec II that I bought earlier this year at auction in Japan and has almost finished the import process into Perth, WA. It is a very high mileage car but if you ask me it has aged very well and it has been very well looked after up until the previous owner, it has a few Nismo goodies on it already such as Nismo gauges, full Nismo suspension including all the arms and can't forget about the crusty knob. A bit about me, I'm 21, study mechanical engineering at ECU and bought this car as a 21st birthday present to myself after 3 and a half years of hard work and saving up.
  23. 4 points
    Some shots of my new(old) 1997 R33 GT-R Series 3
  24. 4 points
    Here's one for my haltech homies. It was a bit of an expensive exercise but I had to try it. I ground out the inside of the gauge holder to fit them in then made a plate to house them. Turned out allright I guess.
  25. 4 points
    That sticker was the first thing I noticed in that pic. The previous owner of Nics Stagea parked next to me at the SAU SNS. I loved his car as he'd done the manual conversion. Before the day was out, Nick had swooped in and bought it. I love that he kept it for the last 14 years.
  26. 4 points
    And my advice is to sell it, buy a GT-t and mod that. Turbo charging a NA is a long, expensive and will produce a shit outcome. Then factor in brakes, diff, gearbox, etc. And you've just burnt more money than what a GT-t is worth, not to mention getting it registered will be great fun.
  27. 4 points
    You haven’t even scratched the surface, whipper snapper. You’re in for a world of butt hurt with your wish list. 😂 A look into the future after you get the next invoice.
  28. 4 points
    Not sure I follow your concern. Speaking with my aerodynamicist hat on, all flows in all automotive systems of any concern to us are turbulent - as in, they meet the criteria of having a high Reynolds number. Certainly high enough that there should never be any talk about laminar flow. If what you are talking about is "well developed flow", then the sad fact is that there are no duct lengths in pretty much any automotive application that are long enough to provide that either. The beauty of all this bad news is that it really doesn't matter, especially with the newer blade type AFMs. But even without the new ones, something like the classic Nissan hot wire AFM is just a hot wire anemometer. It is measuring the velocity of the air at just one point in the pipe, and via a "calibration" outputting a number that represents the total air flow through the pipe (the pipe being the AFM body). It really does not matter if the velocity profile across the pipe is even or not. It does not matter if it is high on one side and low on the other, or if it has swirl in it. That's because the relationship between the measuring location in the centre and the average flow remains pretty much the same regardless of the amount of air being drawn through, because the flow remains pretty firmly stuck in the turbulent regime (Re >>2000) for all likely flows. Thus the gross flow patterns remain the same. Now, it is true that OEMs have usually gone to some effort to straighten out or balance the flow across the pipe. The Nissan mesh will put up a little pressure drop and thus will spread a biased flow profile back across the pipe a little bit, but not much, because it's actually bugger all flow restriction. You need to put up quite a resistance to cause a really biased flow spread out much. Other manufacturers have has structures to knock out swirl or otherwise straighten up flow that wasn't approaching the AFM in an axial direction. All of these attempts are only doing so much. In reality, all the hand wringing that people have learnt over AFMs comes down to the fact that the relationship between average velocity and the velocity measured by the hot wire is part of the calibration, that the ECU expects to see, and the ECU then has another calibration over the top of that that says that X voltage = Y flow rate and then on top of that you have the numbers in the fuel table that can be moved up and down too. So they are well covered for being able to handle whatever differences in "calibration" the AFM might exhibit as the flow increases from idle up to max power. People wring their hands because they hear about Joe Bloggs who put a pod filter on his Nissan and it ran hella rich (or more likely, lean, blew his engine and that's why people learn to be upset by it). But that's only because the assumed calibration of the AFM was buggered by the change to the inlet conditions and the ECU was looking at a different number than it used to for the same air flow rate. All this is not a problem when you can retune the ECU. You just change the AFM calibration curve, or the values in the fuel table. Turbulence is not a problem. Not one to be confused with the effects of reversion or the effects of changing the inlet pipe geometry without having the ability to compensate for it at the ECU.
  29. 4 points
    Finally did the 2.7ohm resistor airbag light thing. Took about half hour, was pretty easy. Had a small oil leak, turns out oil was coming out the dip stick. Apparently wasn't breathing enough, so got the catch can plumbed in. Haven''t had the chance to get proper shots done, but just a couple from a few weekends ago.
  30. 4 points
    Please join us for our monthly catch up. This time we’ve taken it to the evening and will be having dinner at an oldie but a goodie - Kebab Joint in Mulgrave. When? Wednesday 15th May Time? 7pm onwards Where? Kebab Joint 889 Springvale Rd, Mulgrave VIC 3170 Who? Anyone! Members, new members, potential members - this is a chance to get to know the club and see what we are about. Bring the family down! Hope to see you all there!
  31. 4 points
    So I got the coolant bled to a point where I could drive it without overheating and run the engine in for 100km. Installed a GFB G Force 3 boost controller on a little bracket I made up that fits in the vent. I can monitor AFR later on when I put another sensor in and protect the engine incase it leans out. So many cool features with this unit. Also had a mate dip the grill in carbon fibre. Came out really good and matches nicely with the ARX kit.
  32. 4 points
    I've learnt heaps from this thread, please carry on. Slap is the the man.
  33. 4 points
  34. 4 points
    No, it cannot. From your posts it comes across like you have a LOT to learn, I'll try and give a bit of a concise enough ramble which if I get where you are at right and you are willing to take something on board it may help you think about things a bit differently and maybe learn something. So, think of knock sensors not as something measuring knock... but measuring the vibrations being transferred through whatever it is attached to. The sensor is effectively communicating the movement of those vibrations to the best of it's ability, it isn't giving a voltage representing the rate of the movements (aka frequency), but the strength and direction of those movements. If you had a sensor which was outputting a 1KHz square wave signal with a 1volt amplitude, and another sensor which was outputting a 1KHz square wave signal with a 2volt amplitude and tried to analyse that signal with a voltmeter you would not read the same voltage from those two sensors which are signalling the exact same frequency. Bearing that in mind, this pretty much explains why there is no set voltage where you are experiencing "knock". There are a few things which can influence what the signal from a knock sensor looks like - for starters: * Is it a resonant (more sensitive to a given frequency range) or a flat response sensor? * Where is the sensor located? * What is the resonant frequency of the engine being used? * What rpm is the engine operating at? * How noisy is the engine itself? You need signal processing of some sort if you hope to intelligently identify knock. You can probably do it with analog components but given the level of naivety you are indicating I could be forgiven for assuming you aren't going to be building custom circuits with effective utilisation of band pass filters etc to suit your given setup. There is a lot more data that comes from a knock sensor than just a threshold voltage which means knock, which means you really have to work to make reliable sense of it if you want automated detection of "stuff"- but you also can use them for a lot more too. This may give a bit of an indication of the kind of thing you can expect to see from a knock sensor, and what you can use the data for. In this case I was trying to identify the cause of a misfire on an car which pulling the plugs on to check was a non-trivial job, so I used windowing (split the signal from the knock sensor based off which cylinder was in it's combustion cycle so I align the noise with the busiest cylinder) and some signal filtering to even out the noise versus engine speed. Using that it became pretty clear which cylinder stopped firing when the car hit full boost.... check out the red line in the top graph. That's basically using less noise than "normal" to identify the lack of combustion, as opposed to using excessive noise to identify uncontrolled combustion. Analog tuning, what? PS, all of this is just trying to teach something with no rational thought process to react to a specific bunch of parameters you have set. It can't be guaranteed to always detect knock, and it can't be guaranteed that when it reacts that it is really knocking. It's just responding in prescribed way to a signal which meets some rules you've provided.
  35. 4 points
    Hello my name is kevin and im 21 years old. I come from the netherlands and since less then a half year ago im the owner of a streetlegal trackprepped r32 gts-t equiped with an rb20det.
  36. 4 points
    Heads on, cams in and timing cover on. Just had to fit up covers to see if the colour combo works!
  37. 4 points
    That’s a list of some f**ker getting overcharged for shit
  38. 4 points
    Well seems I don't pay too much attention to SAU as of late. Racewars 18 was run with a big improvement over last year thanks to a retune from WA Racing Developments. and the HKS was removed in favour of some fresh panel and paint, with new rims to follow. Thanks to Panelhaus in Canningvale for the so far top job, should be off to Madinc in the near future to protect the paint and I might get to drive it this year.
  39. 4 points
    i lost interest in modding a long time ago, luckily before i had the chance to pump mass cash into any of my cars. over the years, and following many many builds, it becomes pretty obvious that heavy modding is a waste of time and money. many fully built cars spend their time off the road with breakages, never ending upgrades or being moved between different shops and the end result, while fun, is pretty much pointless for road use. it all usually ends with the car being parted out or sold for a lot less than it cost to build and the owner wondering where all their money went these days im more keen on well set up factory cars, keeping them stock and in mint condition
  40. 4 points
    finally got some rubber on the tyres, they fit good. body is painted, parts next and then it’s on it’s way to my warehouse to be finished off. paint came out like glass 😍
  41. 4 points
  42. 4 points
    that is a difference with vcam turned on and off my car, this is a very conservative 98 tune before we swapped to e85
  43. 4 points
    Enough! Off topic posts removed, this is a build thread not a whitegoods discussion. Further off topic posts will lead to warnings or holidays.
  44. 3 points
    I prefer anything over tapatalk, even avoid forums that keep showing popups for it... Never seen the advantage of it 😮 @PranK, thank you for valuing our privacy!
  45. 3 points
    I asked his security guard on the weekend and he said he didn't know
  46. 3 points
    Finally had my r33 on rollers again. 2 years ago dynoed 440 hp @ 1.6 bar of boost (328kw @ 23psi) with what turned out to be a significant boost leak (vacuum nipple on/under throttle body wasnt blocked). Anyway now with the boost leak sorted (and new bypass etc) I hit 553 hp and 725nm at 1.55 bar (412 kW @22.5 psi)! Over 100 more hp with less boost! Wohoo 4 years ago when I started designing my setup my goal was a responsive 500-550hp so Im super happy hits full boost somewhere around 3500 rpm from what i can tell while driving. Rb25/30 (refreshed bottom by garage-d) Athena head gasket Arp bolts Reimax gears on stock pump Baffled sump oil cooler with thermostatic plate, filter recolation Holset He351w 14 cm with iwg welded shut Turbosmart progate 50 Sinco twin scroll manifold Freddy intake with stock throttle body 3,5" exhaust (wg joins exhaust after downpipe) 600x300x80 mishimoto intercooler VAG coils 1100 asnu injectors 450 walbro Gfb 33mm bypass Pmas hpx n1 MAF in 3" intake Pipe Nistune Gfb ge-force 2 ebc 98 pump Fuel Im sure Im forgetting alot. Was running into some issues with the ebc not reacting very well to duty changes (0 duty cycle gave 1 bar and 100 got us 1.05 bar). Had to install a restrictor before ebc solenoid and even with that now running 99 duty cycle. Well, it works and I dont think any more boost wouldve helped. And with stock pistons/rods it better to be on the safe side.
  47. 3 points
    I'm confident this is the first ever time anyone has ever asked about making power with an RB in this whole forum. Amazing. We're really breaking new ground! Wait, you're planning on doing the work yourself yet clearly have absolutely no idea what's required to make the power you want? K.
  48. 3 points
    hi dear all, I am new to here.
  49. 3 points
    MINES Carbon Aero mirror Type II to suit BNR34. These have never been installed and are new. I have never seen a new set for sale since production ended for these. Being discontinued and rare, used sets are selling for over $2k I am after AUD$2500.
  50. 3 points
    Was beginning to look as exciting as my sex life! [emoji1787][emoji23][emoji1303]
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