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  1. Dash is complete, very happy with the result
    10 points
  2. Well...to be fair to all, the OP asked about a GTR - true........but then mistakenly also talked about 20 and 25 DET motors......this added to some of the confusion. IMO, don't buy a Skyline unless: you want +20 year old power and are willing to chase the rainbow, have a good tool kit and aren't afraid to use it, are happier throwing spanners around than watching TV can live on 2 minute noodles and no money but have a great 6 -boost/garrett/hks/ etc etc etc to install have no girlfriend or a long suffering one who understands know that you can't make every trendy coffee shop meet cos you need to get the car going again all your t shirts have oil/grease stains Others can add to the list, I've probably forgotten a fair few.
    10 points
  3. Go downstairs, start your car and put your hand on the turbine housing at idle. Please take a video. ?
    9 points
  4. Get some of these, well known and reputable brand ?
    9 points
  5. Hey everyone, I've always wanted to start a thread and constantly update it over the years with new mods etc, then look back at the progress and see how far it's come. So here it is! This is my 2001 Skyline R34 GTR. It was a grade 4B at the auctions and was exported on the 2nd of March 2018. I later purchased it from a local dealer here in Sydney on the 21st of December 2018 as a nice little Christmas present to myself. (Picking it up from the dealer) (Bringing her home) As you could imagine I was ecstatic about finally owning a car I have only dreamed about. Although I did pay a premium price for it, it was worth every penny to me (and that's all that really matters). Theres not much to say about it really. It is a base model and had absolutely no modifications done to it, but that will slowly change over time as you guys will see in this thread! That same weekend I bought a new Kenwood head unit and Alpine speakers to replace the factory speakers and crappy aftermarket head unit that was already in the car. At the time I didn't think of taking any photos of the install but I don't think that is too interesting anyways haha. After about two months of owning the car, it was time to find a good exhaust system so I could listen to that RB26 in all of it's glory! I found someone selling some near new HKS front pipes, high-flow cat and Tomei Expreme Ti cat-back which I jumped on straight away and got myself a bargain! Then around mid-June 2019 I got myself a brand new NISMO Intercooler off a member on this forum, installed it and colour matched the front lip to the rest of the car. Fast forward to last weekend where I replaced the factory clutch and duel-mass flywheel for a NISMO twin plate and boy does that clutch feel so good. I'm not going to be chasing 1000hp like most GTR's in Sydney, but this clutch install should be overkill for the power level I want out of it. (Pulling the clutch out at my work. Definitely not something I wanted to do on my garage floor and my boss was kind enough to let me come in on the weekend and use a hoist so I could replace it) (Stock clutch ready to be replaced) (Definitely needs a good clean up in there) (New clutch, rear main seal and spigot bearing installed) (Bell housing cleaned up nicely with new release bearing) Really impressed with how easy it is to use the NISMO twin plate. Feels just like the stock one with a bit more bite. Anyways, that's a quick catch up of what life has been like for the past year and a half of ownership. More exciting things to come! I hope you guys enjoy the journey with me. Until next time ✌️
    9 points
  6. Hi all, things are mostly dead in here but I figured its still worth recording this somewhere as people here or out in the world who google stuff may find some of this interesting as there seems to be a bit of interest in these turbos from a value for money stand point - but a fair bit of conflicting info... so I thought I'd add something which *I* view as kinda credible info, take it as you will As a bit of background, one of my best mates @Looney_Head has been chipping away at his build in his garage over the years - he has done most of it himself or with help from mates... doing things on a relative budget, but "properly". Probably unsurprisingly here he picked my brain for turbo choices, and around ten years ago the build was going to be a stock/reconditioned RB30 with an R32 RB25 head so the target was around 370kw @ hubs on BP98 so I suggested a Borg Warner S360SX with .91a/r hotside as it could be had for NZ$900 at the time, should offer decent response vs power vs reliability and being a large frame T4 divided turbo there should be an easy upgrade path with minimal changes if he decided to in future. Turns out that was a good plan as feature creep resulted in the build having a forged RB30 bottom end and an R33 RB25 head with some Tomei 256 cams and a mild port job. We knew that the turbo was going to now be well out of it's depth but being that the car is an R32 GTS-t it probably was likely to end up still being a bit of a weapon so when it was already ready we decided to tune it up and find any bugs etc and he could have fun with it for a while. On the dyno as I progressively increase BCS duty cycle it started becoming clear that it was hitting a brick wall pretty much bang on where I expected it to - basically being unkeen to support more than 18-20psi boost at 7000rpm, so we ended up stopping with boost peaking at 23psi and bleeding back to around 19psi and making a very fat 447kw @ hubs on E70ish. See the mighty S360SX dyno plot complete with choke as soon as it hits 600hp: That proved to be a very very fun street package, but the opportunity came up to get our hands on an upgrade for a good price so after much umming and ahhing we settled on an S362SX-E (aka S361SX-E, aka S300SX-E 8376, aka S300SX-E 61/68 depending on whose nomclementure you subscribe to). The process of chosing that was actually pretty challenging due to the conflicting info on the net which is part of the reason for me starting this thread - to share the process and reasoning and then the interim results, hopefully to clear things up a bit. Firstly, our hopes were to free up the flow up top with minimal cost to response. So, questions you may find hard to answer or generally look misleading when looking at these: 1) The S362SX-E with the 76mm turbine wheel (there is an option to use the 80mm wheel) can go directly into an exhaust housing which fits the the S360SX turbine wheel. They are an identical 76mm inducer/68mm exducer profile. 2) Despite being exactly the same size the SX-E turbine wheel is DIFFERENT to the SX wheel, the aero is very obviously different. The SX has "flat tips" while the new SX-E has cupped tips - I'll attach pics, but its pretty obvious how the exhaust gas will react with the wheel as it "hits" and flows through the blades will change. See below: (S360SX turbine left, S362SX-E turbine right): 3) The "76mm .91a/r" turbine flow map on Matchbot relates to the SX-E wheel. I had to work this out anecdotally, but it became clear that the S300SX flat-tip wheel is a bit of a nugget flow wise and in combination with the pretty average flow of the 60/83mm S360 compressor results in very high EMAP if you want to make >500whp. Due to that, and the internet being mainly convinced that the S300SX and S300SX-E turbines are the same people often go for larger a/r turbine housings than they need when going 76mm SX-E turbos. The 76mm .91a/r hotside combo on an S300SX-E flow the same as a 1.05a/r 74mm EFR turbine. It has been proven to support 900whp (US dynos)/ near 600kw (Oz dynos) on the right setup. People are often oversizing the hotsides on Borg Warner Airwerks turbos and living with more lag than they need, imho. So, after my research and deciding that there was a bit of misinformation out there - I decided that going for the 76mm turbine wheel in the SAME .91a/r housing we'd be running should make for minimal sacrifice to response but not actually choke the turbo despite the fact that we had seen massive signs of choke on the old turbo in the same housing (VE was dropping off increasingly badly in the 220kpa and 240+kpa rows in the engine efficiency table - and boost control duty cycle had a major dogleg after 5000rpm to target 240kpa MAP). In terms of compressor wheel, the "S362SX-E" actually has a 61.4mm inducer and 83mm exducer, so identical outer size to the S360SX (or 8375) that was being replaced but only 1.5mm bigger inducer. This wee thing is a bit of a gem on paper, the loose info on the net would suggest that the 63mm and 64.5mm inducer variations are big steps up but after close investigation I found that actually - the compressor maps for those turbos "cut off" at around 54-56% while the 61.4mm one only runs to 58-60%. If you compare these maps at "efficiency for efficiency" then the 63mm BARELY pips the 61.4mm wheel, and the 64.5 has a max of 6% more flow in the 2.2-2.7 pressure ratio range that your focus would be on a decent RB. When you consider that the 63 and 64.5mm wheels are both 87mm exducer, there is no way there is not going to be a significant impact to spool or transient response. The big flow advantages on those bigger inducers are at pressure ratios of 3+, which is not relevant - and the 66+mm inducer is just not relevant to our interests as we weren't looking for huge power. Here is the old and the new turbos: (SX-E left, SX right) I actually overlayed the ol' faithful EFR8374 compressor map (in red) onto the S362SX-E compressor map and it becomes obvious the SX-E is a good thing, having a better surge line but also providing equal or better compressor efficiency at almost every relevant flow/pressure point on the compressor map. So, decision made, turbo install and off we go for some dyno hilarity! At low boost it was like the turbo was identical, it was basically tracking the exact same boost curve and making the same power at ~10psi - no shocks there. What got interesting however is that as I started targetting higher and higher boost levels, the BCS duty cycle could stay relatively "flat" whereas with the S360SX I was needing to bump duty more and more from 5000rpm up - and I also ended up basically copying the VE numbers from 200kpa row and pasting it to every row above that and having lambdas hit target perfectly - while I needed to roll them back with the S360SX. Naturally, this was reflected in power numbers as well. Things were starting to get fun! When I targetted the 240kpa MAP level when there S360SX was done we were all excited and looking forward to seeing what happened things got more dumb than we hoped - the Link did a fuel pressure cut at 6500rpm, and looking at the logs there was indeed a fuel pressure drop starting to set in We ummed and ahhed about it and wondered if the surge tank was a bit too small so tried increasing the ramp rate to do a 6s sweep instead of a 9s sweep but alas no, protection kicked in at exactly 6500rpm We tried bumping base fuel pressure to see what would happen and it did allow is to complete a base run at 240kpa (20ish psi boost) and still no signs of dropping off in turbo flow but alas fuel pressure was still dropping. VERY annoying but we had to call it a day and we are looking the fuel delivery issue for now. Nonetheless, 466kw on 1.4bar with power climbing to redline while making 300kw before 4000rpm was very encouraging. We did do a "controlled" test run at 1.6bar to see what fuel pressure and turbo flow would do etc as dyno time is hard to get so we wanted to be sure that everything else would keep up with more and she is STILL eating it up, hits 1.5bar by 3700rpm on a 9s ramp and we saw a peak of 489kw with SOFT timing so I am very confident that we could have walked past 500kw if we hadn't run into fuel delivery woes! Firstly, shot from the link during a 9s sweep (as I forgot to get a pic of the boost curve from the dyno haha) And the dyno plot.... Red dotted line: Old S360SX-E at 1.4bar bleeding back (same BCS duty cycle as the SX-E runs here) a 9s sweep Solid red line: S362SX-E at 1.4bar on a 9s sweep with fuel cut Solid green line: S362SX-E on a 6s sweep with fuel cut Solid blue line: S362SX-E on a full 6s sweep There was no specific tuning done with the S362SXE at this boost level beyond targetting boost, timing has not been fully optimised at this boost with this turbo. Anyway, I've attached some pics to go with the long story that anyone who knows me will know this is what they were in for when I posted. Thought there might be some useful stuff for anyone who has been curious about these things, but either way this kind of thing is handy for our own records to look back on Feel free to ask questions or offer input or whatever, in regards the fuel pressure thing we are not looking for input on that thanks, please keep the conversation on topic... we have stuff to do there - I've just not shared everything to keep it relevant to turbos. Cheers all!
    9 points
  7. 8 points
  8. Got the IC7 in today. But still waiting on my fuel level sensor to be installed
    8 points
  9. I have actually had my car for over 10 years now, so this build thread is retrospective. It may or may not have been prompted by going through many old photos. There are many broken things in these photos, and over the years since getting my humble NA+T Auto sedan (without any knowledge of it being NA+t and not a GTT) It has, in somewhat sequential order. Replaced the NA+T with a GTT engine. Exploded that GTT engine on the dyno immediately. Replaced fuel pump 9 times, some dead pumps, some melty wiring. Also managed to somehow break a R34 fuel tank multiple times, in the red circled area! Thanks, Optima! Replaced the ECU that caused this (TLDR Emanage Blue's are shit, but it was 2008) Built a forged RB with a 2.9 Stroker kit, proceeding to break everything around the car minus the components of this kit. By this I mean 3x RB25 DET Neo blocks, and a head. Here's some nice engine building photos, and quite a bit of engine GORE. This kit seemed to be the most indestructable thing again, as the engine found itself apart more times than together. Each time every component was tested, retested, Xrayed, and it was ready for more. However it seems everything else around it wasn't! Along the way, Blown up the shift kitted MV auto gearbox, near instantly. Built a GTT Auto gearbox, complete with aftermarket TCU, which broke Trent's dyno @ Chequered, forcing him to upgrade it. Had Hypergear, Garrett, GTX3076, Turbos.. .....Drove the car into an enbankment and had to reshell entire car. Re-Wiring the Automatic gearbox into a different/new car was a seamless easy experience, with absolutely no problems whatsoever! GTX3582, and Borg Warner EFR7670's as Turbos after that.. Many dyno sheets of all these setups, over my approximately seventy million trips to chequered tuning. Looks great, doesn't it? Many in progress shots but these turbo setups had their own problems oh boy did they ever! There was also a 6boost manifold that had to be machined 2mm so it was actually flat... photos.... somewhere. 3-4 different sets of rims over this time. Complete with brake upgrade kit, with its own f****king issues!! Just after the Borg Warner EFR Turbo, the auto found its way exiting my vehicle,, and the car was manually converted, and to quote to the words of JMA's automotive: "Never bring this f**king car here ever again!" so I'm sure the install was smooth, and had absolutely no problems at all in any way. Somewhere along the line, seats were installed/upgraded/tested: Drove the car to Adelaide, all was well, all happy with the world, to find out I almost melted the car to the ground 7 different ways from sunday due to how lines, and wiring was packaged. Delicious. Hilarious, brief (oh god, so very brief) backstory complete, this all cumulated with ripping apart the entire car and starting again. I then, replaced every bush in the car, LS Converted the motor, and is now currently Legally engineered in Victoria (incl full EPA/IM240 test passing experience). Info continued. Previous info can be elaborated on if anyone cares first! Bonus installation photo of my friend helping me with my Bilsteins (which Bilstein revalved to suit the LS when I got the whole thing weighted when that was done).
    8 points
  10. Next question, is it even a genuine Garrett GTX3582? If it's an US home brew junk or a Dimsum special, it's not going to perform. Also it's from America, the data is not even worth the server space.
    8 points
  11. Sorry Ben At this point I had to settle down for what I assumed it was gonna be a fkin long wait, because while "Wiring" and 'An Exhaust' are two small categories it wasn't exactly two simple small jobs. However the people doing it had done it before, and it was interesting to see how certain things were approached differently/similarily. Luckily thank f**k the general response was "Oh so we actually only need to do wiring and an exhaust... you know how people are..." This got me a considerable discount, so there you go people... be nice! It was 2 months between me towing the car there, and the first start which in the grand scheme of things, actually pretty excellent. Driver side and Passenger side headers. Rest of the exhaust connecting to my original mid muffler. We later added 2 more cats to this, so as it currently sits on my car.. it has 4 cat converters. Two are 100 cell, two are 400 cell. Back to back tests show... 0 kw difference. They also show 0 AFR difference, because they were/are all removable by vbands with some straight pipe. The system is twin 3inch exhausts that merge just before the diff into the 3.5. I can only assume thats why putting cats before this merge has no real restriction that I would care about... Passenger side ---^ ^--- Driver side. There's a slight notch (not visible here) to give clearance to the steering rack. There was plenty of clearance everywhere and I don't know why I was even worried to begin with. I don't know what (if any) difference having asymmetrical headers even does, but it was a too f**king bad this is the only way it's going to work kind of situation! The wiring side I have no photos of, because it was a case of buying a new (i.e not 20 years old) aftermarket standalone loom and having the guys there wire this in/run this in, which wasn't apparently too difficult at all - all of the Skyline gauges are still in place because they did the very smart thing of simply putting the sensors (dash temp gauge, oil pressure etc) into the LS directly. The only things to get wired in was the Speedo using the Jaycar converter box. Post: Conversion note, this is shit. I later changed this to a Dakota Digital converter box (https://www.dakotadigital.com/) which works WAY, WAY, WAY better, as the Jaycar one is laggy, and it works, but only over 40kmh, requires dip switches to configure, vs Bluetooth on a phone.... This is a bit of a problem when you're talking to a VASS Engineer. We also had fun stuff with my Racelogic traction control system, which was wired into the 8 injectors, only for me to eventually figure out I had bought the 6cyl version.. (why would I have ever needed the 8cyl version, said past Gerg), so any time I was turning this system on the thing would just permamently ground 2 injectors causing some MEGA, MEGA rich misfiring and general drive like shit-ness. Later doing some digging we bypassed 2 of the cylinders entirely, (i.e wire it into only 6) and the system now works great.. so.. SO much better than it did with the RB and Turbo. even if it can only cut fuel to 6, it .. never really needs that kind of intervention and driving around on 2cyl is impossible anyway... so 6/8 is great! Once this was all wired in, I attended with what was (hopefully?) a reasonable base tune with the HPTuners MVPI, a working wideband to remove VATS from the ECU and many, many, many, many f**kin hopes and prayers.. ... and the whole thing started up on the 2nd crank with a battery that was 12 months old. ... exactly one year to the day the engine got pulled ... nothing leaked, nothing smelled, everything behaved car was f**king LOUD though, comically loud. Like "lol you cant drive this 5 meters down the street" LOUD. So some laps of the industrial park had to do. Turns out a turbo is a really, really, really effective muffler. Next step: Varex!
    8 points
  12. Final piece to the car. New shoes!
    8 points
  13. Hi peeps, got engine run-in and tuned by Jez few days back Results 488kw on EFR8374 1.05, boost around 27psi and tapers back up top, E85 (red) 98 (green) 2.8 nitto stroker with v-cam Full boost around 4k during dyno run (boost is filtered so doesn't show real response) but in steady state load tuning it makes 27psi by 3300rpm 1000nm torque by 5k
    7 points
  14. Hey guys, I'm back with another tutorial that I made (thanks to isolation). This is on a how to swap the RB25 bottom end to a RB30 bottom end with a 25 head in a R34 (R33s and R32 should be kinda similar i think) that I did last year. I had to split the tutorial into 3 parts (each part is like 15mins). It starts with preping the RB30 block, to taking out the RB25, and then putting in the RB30/25 and starting it. The reason why I did an RB30 swap was not because of an upgrade but because my RB25 was showing up bad results on the comp tests and there were cheap RB30s going around (I actually made money out of selling parts from the RB30 that I didn't need lol). The goal for this car is only to be a daily responsive streeter on pump fuel (won't ever take it to the track). It's my first time ever doing something like this (I had no help, did this on my own), so take it as a guide line. If I were to do this again, I would definitely use a proper engine crane and take the whole engine out including the gearbox next time, but yeah... this was a real poor mans job and it got the job done and I've been driving this RB30/25DET Neo everyday to and from work as my daily and I've never had a problem with it (have been clocking 5000+ Kms on it as of 10/4/2020). Here's the videos: Part 1: Part 2: Part 3: I'm really happy with the outcome. Considering I knew nothing about RBs or any engine before I bought this R34. I learnt everything from researching (a shit load) on these forums, so thanks SAU, here's me giving back. The car ended up making 323.8 HP on the dyno with my OP6 highflow turbo which is a bit too small for this engine. So I will go with a bigger one in the near future. List of mods on my car previously that I brought over to the RB30 swap: HyperGear G2 RB25DET OP6 highflow turbo with ballbearing 3" turbo back exhaust 100mm thick FMIC Splitfire coil packs Xspurt 525cc injectors HDI EBC Nistune ECU Z32 AFM Walbro 255lph fuel pump (hard wire mod) 98RON Exedy HD clutch External oil cooler Koyorad all aluminum radiator Just something to add here on the side if anyone was interested (kinda like a build page, but I might as well put it here). This was my whole budget explained: So the total amount that I spent on this build/recon/swap was $3415. I bought a complete RB30 engine (without the box) for $150. Apparently this engine was used in a TAFE course for mechanic students to practise timing stuff on, so the pisons had heaps of screw driver marks on. A recon was in the picture anyways because I want this engine to last for ages. So I only wanted to keep the block, crank and rods. I sold everything els (head, alternator, ecu ect) for $240. That's already a profit of $90 lol! The reconditioning of the RB30 block and RB25 head was the most expensive out of the whole budget costing $1420. The recon from Harris Engines in Perth: $400 - Bore and torque plate hone $190 - Face block $180 - Machine and fit crank collar $90 - Acid bath $90 - Face/deck RB25 head $50 - Acid bath head $90 - Face flywheel $150 - Fitment of pistons to rods $180 - Balance rotating assembly All other things: $270 - 1mm oversized Hypatec RB30ET set of pistons + Hastings Rings $253.45 - RB25 ARP Head stud kit (202-4301) from wolf racing $261.25 - RB25DET Neo genuine nissan gasket kit $106.49 - RB30 ACL race main STD bearing set $88 - RB30 ACL race conrod STD bearing set $30 - RB30 small end rod bushes/bearing set $99 - RB crank collar from Lewis Engines $38.75 - RB oil restrictors (one 1.5mm and one blank one) $38 - RB30 brass welsh plugs $13.71 - RB spigot bush $38.98 - RB genuine nissan timing belt fastner kit $41.5 - genuine nissan thermostat $78.14 - Genuine nissan R34 pull type thrust bearing $110.5 - Genuine nissan RB25 exhaust manifold fastner kit $43.2 - Dayco 94407 (T866) timing belt $72.11 - Mamba RB30/25 turbo water braided line kit $81.59 - Braided -4AN hose + fittings for the external VTC feed from Enzed $330 - Dyno tuned car by C-Red in Perth All of the labour except for the recon and tuning was done by me.
    7 points
  15. Made a couple of changes to the car in preparation for Red centre nats 2020 Motorkhana. Ditched the Advan V103 275/35R18 for some Advan AD08R 265/35R18. Front camber reset to -1.5 and rear to -1.0. Midori Seibi red digital G sensor installed to replace existing analogue unit. New radiator clutch fan installed. Removed Splitfire coilpacks and went back to genuine new Nissan RB26 coilpacks with fresh NGK BCPR7EIX plugs gapped to 0.8mm. Full rebleed of Active LSD and ATTESA system. Finally a slight retuning on the Power FC, settling on 1.35bar Must've worked out, car feels great. First competition for the 33 in nearly 3 years.
    7 points
  16. The worst thing about buying a 370z is that you have to tell your parents you're gay. I'd keep the R33, install an external waste gate and do a driveway burnout to celebrate.
    7 points
  17. Well it turns out I stop working away and somehow forget about this page... Unfortunately working FIFO interstate and COVID hitting basically meant I lost my job very early on in all this (March...) We were stood down indefinitely without pay whilst I guess everyone saw how bad this would eventually get and when it appeared as though W.A wasn't opening their borders any time soon they made quite a few of us redundant, i was in the first round, not too bad in the end consider i only did 1.5 swings with this mob... So I spent the first 2 months doing a heap around the house trying not to spend money, wasn't too bad at first but after 5 or 6 weeks things were getting done and the jobs left on the list required I spend money... I began also looking for work but that was extremely difficult obviously, I tried start my own little welding business out of my shed which brought in a little work but certainly not enough to survive on... I then got a call from a mate who runs a performance car workshop here in Adelaide offering me a bit of welding work (these guys built the Integrated Motorsport R34 GTR time attack car) as well as a few other well known cars, so even though I wasn't going to be working directly on those cars I thought how good an opportunity to be surrounded by all these awesome cars at work... This kept me quite busy for a while but has died off a little in the last month or so... In the meantime I was able to get my shed mostly finished but have held off on the hoist until i get some more regular work coming in and I know the cash-flow is back, I will then look to bitumen the driveway too. Enough dribble, here's a few pics...
    7 points
  18. Apologies for not testing start up time got super busy. BIG UPDATE TIME After a 62hr round trip to Brisbane/Willowbank to grab the car have been busy fixing and tidying up the race. Get it off the ground, wheels off and Gurney everywhere to remove half of QR and barnfind dust. Got stuck in to replacing the busted tie rod end and as a precaution replaced both sides. This is how I managed to get it on the trailer after last archy session in March. Did a bolt check and checked fluids as they had done maybe 20mins of driving and were good. Did replace the brake fluid with some penrite 600f to hopefully keep a good brake pedal feel. Next was fixing up some of the paint and body damage from all the drifting. Ended up repairing the guards and skirts with a few patches but didn't get any pics. I started straightening the drivers door and got a bit carried away This was halfway through the repair. Also sanded the roof and a pillars as was never happy with the finish the first time. A few good layers of undercoat had everything looking heaps better so setup the spray booth and got on with laying colour. So with the car all assembled refitted up the te37s with fresh advan a050 in 255 all round Had a media thing with some local and supercars drivers Today had the sponsor stickers put on and now pretty much ready bar topping up fuel and going to the track. Should be a good weekend and great to finally drive the full Reid Park circuit hopefully get some coverage on fox's port.
    7 points
  19. Minimum requirements: 500kW at the rear Samsonas Full crew with same shirts
    7 points
  20. Put it this way, putting twin turbos on an inline 6 is stupid and putting a single turbo on a V6 is stupid. Also comes down to practicality. To make twins work on an inline properly you would want twin plenums, twin ICs, twin throttles so there are issues with shuffling, flow disturbances, etc. No-one has ever really attempted that hence all twin setups on RBs and 1/2JZ all suck balls. Its like trying to put two cocks in one bum.
    7 points
  21. Going out and chopping some M2/3/4's will make you feel better.
    7 points
  22. Haram exhaust tip fixed, catch can with bigger fittings and an additional fitting for crank case vent. I am ready for the show down with @BakemonoRicer, get ready to witness broken gearboxes. Thank you Third Strike Fabrications for the fabrication work, bloody amazing! (he's ex Hypertune if that helps)
    7 points
  23. Well its been a little while with no updates but if some of you guys are following Wing It Garage on facebook you would have seen some more work done on it.. Well the front is out the mould and i have started trimming it up So has been kinda trimmed and fitted up just needs final trimming and cleanup and it should be sweet!! I love the look of this thing!!! So ive been wanting to run the Power Steering lines all the way to the boot but with funds being abit tight atm i had some hose laying around and if i mounted it on the front splitter i had enough hose so i made up some mounts for it and its mounted and it seems to work pretty well but time will tell!! Then it was onto shocks and wheels and get it rolling again for the first time in months!! Then i got to drive it out into the driveway and give it a pressure clean... I FREAKING LOVE THIS BEAST!! oohhhhh yeahhhh wing and all lol
    7 points
  24. No sorry guys it's going to be mandarin red the reason is when I was a first year apprentice I brought a LX SS 253 hatch with flares. I had the car for about 7 year until a woman failed to give way and T boned me. I kept the motor and sold the rest off, I've always regretted selling it and not fixing it.
    7 points
  25. Dash fives get the guys
    6 points
  26. Gave the intake manifold a sand blast and one last weld and she's ready for powdercoating. I cannot believe how much time I've wasted on this bloody thing.... I could have carved one out of a piece of stone quicker.... Ahh well, its been good for the alloy tigging practice.
    6 points
  27. Waiting for parts is tiresome...I need my high stall and I want it now... Today was a big cleaning day though, took the Mrs to Goulburn in the SS to lunch with the daughter last week and the car got smashed by bugs, then, the next day......I rode the bike to Goulburn to lunch with the daughter, again......yeap, hitting a swarm of bugs at 110kph makes a mess of that Dart screen. I'm really glad I got that screen, I was only wearing a light kevlar jacket and the bugs that hit my biceptacons stung like a bitch, I would hate to be taken them "in the face", the canola is in bloom and the bugs are thick as 10 thick things. In other news I have officially stopped looking for a new car, I'm really enjoying driving the old Commonwhore, it's mad comfy, and lays mad skids.
    6 points
  28. Challenge accepted, will try over 450kW using ARP2000. Side note, quoting power is HP is like measuring your penis length starting from your anus.
    6 points
  29. So tell me, what HAVE you seen of the product development from those companies? You dont see it because you haven't got anything to do with those companies. Have you got any experience developing any sort of product at all? I can say with absolute certainty, those companies have revised and refined their products. Anybody that has been around for years will be constantly looking for improvements, thats how you stay at the top. I work in motorsport. I've seen suspension arms from Porsche Motorsport that needed milling to fit properly on a GT3R. I've seen that same GT3R need a new $27,000 starter motor because an inherent design flaw meant that when the car went into the sand trap it ingested some sand. Does that mean Porsche are no good? I've seen AP Racing supply dog bones for their own big brake kit for a Lotus Exige that were way off, didn't have a hope of fitting. Turns out they had revised their drawings since developing the product and hadn't tested them. Does that make AP Racing no good? Ive seen nitrous kits from Wizards of Nos that were burning out solenoids after idling for 10 seconds and they couldn't tell you why because they tried to change the game with a very clever design with very complex electronics, and somewhere along the line the guy doing the electronics had retired and the company lost that knowledge. Does that make Wizards of Nos no good? I've only been in the game for 8 years, so I can only imagine some of the things that people who have 30-40 years of experience have seen. Its just part of the industry, so yes - you are 100% a guinea pig. I have also seen a PRP block brace with integrated main caps that needed some refinement. Needed the parting faces milled, needed a groove machined behind the bearing saddle, and needed 2 holes tapped. Milling the parting faces and line boring is going to be a given, that can't be "spot on" off the shelf because it is different for every engine, thats part of the machining. As for the groove and the 2 untapped holes, that information was relayed back to Herman, he made the revisions and sent over a replacement. But it was hardly anything to write home about in the first place. To be clear, I am a massive fan of PRP. As I am of Hypertune, as I am of Plazmaman, as I am of Haltech, as I am of Turbosmart, as I am of any Australian company that is involved in developing high end products for a niche market. And doing it their way because they believe in their ideas and they have a genuine desire to be the best in the business. Honestly, it's one thing to say "nah I'm not going to run this product on my car, I like this product better". Its another to just casually slag off a small business because you once got a glimpse of the reality of product development. Comments like that can cause so much damage to a business, and when it's hearsay and opinions from people with no actual knowledge or experience then that is so frustrating to see.
    6 points
  30. Well I figure its time for an update, bit been happening in the last few years. First of all, wrap was removed to display the 50 shades in all its glory Stripped back and painted by PanelHaus in Canningvale, really happy with the job and he was more than happy to tidy up a few bits and pieces. However it took a while, I should have never told him I was living overseas at the time. after all that it ended up looking like this Shortly after that I went my separate ways with the previous performance workshop who worked on the car, I had a few key issues which had been haunting the car since its completion which they were unable to resolve, so I figured it’s time for a new set of eyes. There has been an abundance of work to get the car back up to spec of where I want it performance wise, and it has been a hell of a journey which I probably have forgotten most of, but the key items: • 4wd now works • Rebuilt the 6466 turbo • An extensive list of maintenance and safety items. • Refitting of seat to have me actually sitting in the centre and not skewed • Extended the steering wheel towards myself a touch • Rebuilt the holinger – basically I smoked 5th gear it was previously set on a timer to reapply power as opposed to closed loop shift cut. • Sika stepped up and Sponsored my head build Went from 579kw to 614kw by cutting the restriction out of the HKS hi power silent – at this point Rob Turner ran a 9.6 @ 146mph in it to verify the power and 4wd operation – see graph below it is pretty impressive how the trimmy boi changed the power so significantly After that test went all out on a 4” turbo back exhaust done by Dom @ Prestige exhaust. He was fantastic to deal wit to replace the 3” pea shooter. power increase was not as great however it was on an absolute stinker of a day in feb, Rob complained his icecream melted while he was tuning it. Would it have gone more on a nicer day, unsure but we will wait for the next round of power mods before bothering to dyno it again. The cool thing on that day is 1320 video popped past in preparation of racewars coverage and I got a slightly larger E Peen Racewars as unfortunate as it was to miss the Sunday of racing was a great success, did my last standing K KPH in the 800s and came 2nd in ET to Eddie who has a hell of a car. We did have a few more PSI to punch in for the 1k run but that’s life. Onto the good stuff As I am back in Perth a bit more these days, I have been using the car as intended. Got two sessions in at Barbs on AD08’s getting my best time down to a 65.1 LT. So stepped it up and bought some R Comps Z221’s and have got the best time down to 62.4, all throught racechrono with a gps expander on it. Below compares my time (light blue) against one of Simons 59’s. I am 0.5 off in sector 2 and 3 and a touch more in sector 1, mainly looks like I am a bit soft through the essess (explanation below) Also got some laps in at RAC, it was reverse circuit with a chicane. And some Sunday morning early morning hills run’s with the lads So the 62’s at barbs was on gate pressure around 650whp, the brakes lasted ¾ of one good quick lap before the peddle being a bit shit and the weight transition through the essess felt the car was launching towards the outer wall. It was at that point in time i recalled we had make do coil overs in the car (basic teins with pretty mediocre spring rates) and the pads were not as good as they could be. With the AP’s getting on in life the following was ordered • Alcon 6 pot front and 4 pot rears, 365mm discs • MCA Reds Now down to 60.7 Long Track at Barbs and 57.6 at RAC Reverse circuit. Overlay comparing my time to Simons 59 around barbs shame to pull the engine this month, but its a good baseline, engine is being pulled for the following: > has a stock diff, so going with a quaife > Head keeps popping shims, so going a shimless setup with a cnc port by RAMS > Re Ring and Rebearing while everything is out > Nismo plenum / HKS Intercooler into the bin and a plasmaman Intake Manifold and Intercooler setup installed. Cheers!
    6 points
  31. Coming from -9's with all the fruit... Single FTW - It rips! More power everywhere. Transient response is insane, zero lag between gear shifts, and that's with Kelford 272 long duration cams too! Even on 98 pump fuel which is about 365kw @20psi it still shits all over the twin -9's. And the GTX noise is just magic, it's like a HKS T51 ?
    6 points
  32. Hopefully this works IMG_7048.MOV
    6 points
  33. For those interested here's my Evo 9 and 7670 1.05 result. Alternator was getting sad so we capped it at that for now. Turbo speed is 126K out of 140k so there's still a bit left in the tank. We also capped torque at 670nm to keep my gearbox happy. My tuner believes there's probably around 420kw & 700+nm of torque in it on full send mode.
    6 points
  34. Hey everyone! My name is Dimitri and I'm in Toyohashi, (Aichi pref.) Japan, but originally form Adelaide. I've been ducked in time to time to lurk around SAU, but hopefully will have a few projects of my own kicking off soon. A few months ago, I picked up an M35 Stagea VQ25DET, as a stock daily, with the aim of gradually building it up as a camera rig car. I shoot cars for a living, so I've always been keen on rigging up a decent tracking car that'll keep up with whatever I'm shooting on the occasional circuit day. If anyone has done a camera-car project, any advice/ideas would be awesome to hear. I'm also now on the hunt for an R34 GTt, which is proving interesting over here with the cheaper specimens getting snapped up quickly and prices are inching up. Anyway, if you want to talk photography, video or Japan in general, hit me up. Cheers!
    6 points
  35. Update time.. engine is built and mounted. GTR rods, ARP bolts, stock pistons, new rings, honed, all surfaces machined and new OEM gaskets. Turbo is a gt 3576r wonder if it'll be too big for this thing? Engine is now dry dumped and 1000cc injectors now fitted, powerfc ecu is in a box on the bench.
    6 points
  36. Ha ha, yeah we definitely did decide that. I think?? We just didn't sort out the finer details of who's paying for it as it aint me! Even though I control the finances of the household my lovely wife would LOSE IT if a nice timber box turned up with a shiny new sequential gearbag in it! One day maybe but not for a fair while yet. Maybe when I give up motorbikes, hookers and blow I'll have the spare cash to drop $20K on it!
    6 points
  37. Hey Been awhile since an update..... car hasn't moved in awhile.... After much - and I do mean much research & questioning .... I have finally taken the jump...... new box has been decided & ordered! I went with the Albins ST6-LP(Low Profile billet casing - direct fitment) with the HyperTune Shifter kit and associated accessories (cross member, etc) and bits. ??? New ECU and other items coming as well! Watch this space! Dan
    6 points
  38. You sound young. Here's a tip. Don't spend money on this car. As in, don't spend money you don't need to. Repairs to keep it going are fine. Don't get an idea that you need a new exhaust if the old one is working, then save up your pennies and throw it at the car the instant you have enough. Same with seats, wheels, etc. A new exhaust that is better than the old exhaust is only a good idea when the old exhaust is full of holes. New seats are a waste of money unless the old seats are buggered and/or will fail a roadworthy. Same with wheels, headlight globes, air filters, spark plug leads, etc etc etc. Own the car for a while. Decide if you like it. Save some money to NOT spend on the car. Do all these things, before getting carried away with throwing money at the car. In the meantime you will either fall in love with the car, or it will reveal itself to be a horrible money pit that you would be better off swapping for a Yaris (or it could do both). There is nothing worse than seeing every young lad follow the same path of throwing a ton of money into the first shitter that they get their hands on and every last dollar of that is effectively wasted. Now, I'm not ragging on you or your car. I'm sure that there are a few good R31s left out there and yours could be one of them. (But most of them have been used as mobile bong smoke storage devices for the last 25 years, so the odds are not real good!) I'm just giving you a free life lesson. And so, if you actually do have to replace the exhaust, then yes, a 2.5" system is a decent size for the power level. If you put a decent mid muffler in it and a Magnaflow or similar rear of a decent size it will give it a clean RB sound without it being too loud. Don't bother with stainless. Mild will likely outlast the car. If you want to spend time with the car doing things that make it look good and you feel good about it, there is nothing better than buying some cloths and some Meguiars (or similar) paint cleaning and polishing products and spending time bringing the paint and other surfaces back from whatever state they are currently in. Also, look to do thorough inspections on the brakes, the suspension bushes and arms etc, looking for wear, collapse, etc that will both cost you money and be a horrible safety problem if they fail while you're driving. Better to spend your time and effort learning about the things that really matter. Learn how to jack and support the car safely (so it won't fall on you and so the stands don't damage the underside of the car!) and start taking a close look at all the dirty bits.
    6 points
  39. Sorry for lack of updates. I have been saving like crazy and haven't been doing much. Updates will be slow from now on - I have decided to go to uni so I have been banned from modifying this. (will still continue to bug her, hopefully she gives in and lets me throw a highmount turbo on). I have got the series 3 headlights and front lip on, and I also got the front end resprayed as there were lots of random stone chips throughout the paint. I got a photoshoot done for my birthday, here are my favourites from the first location. I hope you all enjoy!
    6 points
  40. It's all about where the merge separates
    6 points
  41. In car footage, Race Chrono says 1m11.7s but we all Natsoft is more accurate 1m11.5s Rundown: 255/40/18 Nankang AR-1 MCA X-R 10/7 kg/mm 24mm front ARB on Medium 24mm rear ARB on Soft Full trim, AC, etc. Shit Karnt of Driver
    6 points
  42. People love dyno sheets, dyno sheet now included. Some data too Replay View
    6 points
  43. Thank you to Alex and the team at Birrong Automotive for letting me use their workshop and dyno. 2bar boost just because why not, 19 degrees of timing. There's more in it, however the intake temps are kissing mid 40s with the China bing bong core. I did order a Plazmaman Pro Series but didn't come in time. I'll grab the logs and dyno sheet off my laptop later.
    6 points
  44. So at this point I had a super illegal car sitting at home, with a few things still needed to be sorted out Namely: 1) Android head unit, I wanted something I could operate without touching my phone, and a head unit is less than a fine. 2) Air conditioning still needed to be plumbed in, I had the compressor bolted to the block, and the rest of the skyline system, but no lines attached, so started asking around for that. 3) I needed a tune. I was pretty confident road tuning the car as the car actually is pretty fkin basic compared to previous tunes with the turbo. The HPTuners software is great, VCM logger is awesome, and effectively having a 2D load map is really simple. I really got to know how different it is using an OEM ecu as a base vs something like a Haltech.. the OEM base has tables for EVERYTHING and is much more complex with tables referencing other tables referencing other tables referencing other tables vs the Haltech. But it was fun to learn. I had set conservative timing, pretty rich on the fuel side of things as V8's can run leaner and more or less just drove it around and had lots of fun loading it up in hills to uh, run that new engine in, and hey the stock suspension didn't even feel that bad!.... though the 2 way was still a bit of a clunky mess. Was I paranoid about every single car being a police vehicle oh you bet I was. But in the end, I was satisfied enough that I went to effectively run it up on the dyno to confirm my tuning efforts weren't entirely wrong and the engine wasn't pinging itself to death and of course, to see how much power it made and whether more could be eked out of it. Here's the dyno sheet. The grey line was the first run and the orange line was after the tune, which really was just leaning it out a little (from 12.0 to 12.8) Adding timing did nothing, removing timing also did nothing, no knock detected, no nothing, actually. It was all pretty much... pretty much the same. The issue really is that there is a restriction with the intake and heads, you can see the manifold pressure dropping after about 5000RPM. This cam is supposed to be power between "3000-6600rpm+" according to the spec sheet. You can see that power is certainly not peaking at 6600rpm. @mlr be aware! In my case I was losing about 7kpa which is basically 7% power. A FAST 102MM intake and TB cost around $2000 to maybe address this. A set of heads costs $5000ish. Would I spend $7000 for .. ~30? rwkw? I mean I have in the past but I'm not going to........ yet.... But yes a little short of the fabled 300kw/400whp, which Americans seem to get no problem whatsoever with a cam this size in a cam-only build. The thing gets up and boogies fine from low RPM at least compared to a turbo car, and traction is limited down low anyway so it didn't really seem like an issue - the 4.11 rear gears help a lot. However to make myself sad, I have roughly interposed the LS graph over my old Borg Warner graph. (the red line was 9psi) So no it's not as fast, but there's something about it that is immensely... satisfying about it. In short, ----^ Next steps Suspension Head unit Aircon Engineering
    6 points
  45. So the most impatient wait for any car part went on here, for a Varex muffler that came from Sparesbox honestly pretty cheap and pretty fast. I previously had 2x Magnaflow 3.5in mufflers, one as a mid and one as a rear. This was quiet enough for a Turbo setup but clearly not anymore. Because I am a 5 year old, I asked that we made the rear muffler detachable so I could swap the Varex out with the Magnaflow one for the track because.... 5 year old.... Also, the tip isn't stock. The guys there made a new one and welded it onto the varex to make it neat and sit flush with the rear bumper. I never asked them to do this, they just..... did it out of the kindness of their hearts. You may remember from page 1 (probably) that once upon a time my wiring looked like this: ….when setting up my Auto transmission ECU to work correctly, and use the wheel and shifters to manually change gears. The good news is I learned that the switches on both sides of the wheel are shared (one up, one down) and that they are momentary switches. These buttons remained unused for years, things like antilag etc could have been done other ways. Boost up/down I never used, cause I did boost by gear and had racelogic for traction control. I considered replacing the steering wheel for a manual one for awhile, but NO, finally there was a use again, and this occurred! video-1560494721.mp4 Jesus christ what a shit quality video, but it was revolutionary at the time! At this point in the story I had something resembling an actual car that I could drive, and was monumentally happy, and 90% worried something would break, even though it was left idling for quite some time, AFR's seemed fine, ECU was talking to Laptop and ODB2, nothing was leaking, but always concerned as to how good a quality map was actually loaded in there to begin with. So lets just say the drive home was part really awesome and part extremely stressful, paying wild attention to every gauge, as well as any light whatsoever as I was pretty confident I was driving the most illegal car in Victoria home... but combined with the unknown tune (seemed pretty decent actually) and stock suspension in the car it wasn't really able to be pushed, but I was glad to get it home in the end. Next step, run in the engine, tune it properly/learn how the fkin ECU works and start plans to get the suspension back in/swapped and start the path of talking to Engineers and hopefully finding out that all that work done wasn't just a complete waste of time and money... And because the above video is so shit, I recorded another one today because Coronavirus. One thing I have learned about the V8 is how loud the engine is, as opposed to the exhaust, but it still makes a pretty decent difference, and can see/feel the restriction it has as the AFR's go from 12.8 to about 10.8 under full load. The biggest difference was going to the Varex muffler itself, as far as Mufflers go, even when fully open it does a decent job of muffling compared to the Magnaflow one.
    6 points
  46. I too have an excel spreadsheet, infact I put this V8 conversion all in it, including dates, what i bought, and even compared what I thought I'd spend to what I actually did spend. Then it all became a bit superflous because the parts I did spend on weren't really strictly related to "Conversion only" costs.. like say, the previous post. Also got a bit lucky in some aspects, like a pre-made ready to go refreshed cammed motor. Saved some $ there. ........Provided that engine actually started and was built correctly......... Moving on, more bushings! So now we had the rear of the car, and bushings done (many not pictured on the front arms), we decided to tackle plumbing up the engine side. We left the clutch out for now because it's just going to be easier taking engine in/out/in/out/in/out without a clutch to contend with. But the gearbox looks to have bolted up fine and took up space fine, useful for checking clearances to things. Here was our lovely engine bay,complete with old R34 ancillaries just.. hanging out. Gearbox sorta fitting okay! The commodore shift knob options are horrific, so we ended up cutting this and welding on a literal bolt to the end of it with the same pitch that Nissan shift knobs use, so I can re-use my OEM Nissan/Nismo Shift knob. The gates are tighter than a R33 Gearbox is (maybe the ripshifter does this) but it means that the AUTO housing I had around the shifter now fit better after the conversion than it did before. Another win! Please check page 1 for a description of my abomination of wiring. It was always a really sore point, but now that the motor was gone, we could remove what wasn't needed anymore. The way I thought about it was ..... My Haltech PS2000 ran the Engine, standalone. The LS1 Ecu runs the Engine, standalone. No other functions of the car did not work. AC worked, Power steering worked, dash worked, all electronics worked fine before the conversion. Logically then.. we could remove all of the things the PS2000 was wired to. Logically then.. we could run the LS1 in "Engine only" mode, and everything should be just fine, cause the rest of the car's wiring wasn't changed, because it was never in play to begin with. ... in the past my car has had up to 4-5 ECU's running various things. Anyway, all gone now. So we started pulling wires out. Initially we labelled them, and thought about them, and then eventually came to the conclusion above. "I'm sure it's fine" What's this for? I don't know. I knew then, I don't know now, but I took a photo of it for some reason. With literally all the engine wiring in the bin, we had an empty engine bay to start figuring stuff out in, and first cab off the ranks was the fuel system. The engine we got had some nice return EFI fuel rails on it which was great, because the LS1 uses a returnless system, and the rest of a skyline is .. not a returnless system. so thank f**k for that, basically, but we had to plumb it all in. We decided to cut these lines shorter, to angle them up against the firewall as much as possible. We didn't know how the f**k people ran a manifold/exhaust through here but we sure weren't going to be the guys that didn't make every effort to try and make someone's future life easier. People notice that shit! (also I almost melted my car to the ground due to wiring issues and heat in the past. This is fuel... and a manifold, what could go wrong?) Ah yes the first braided line, the one that started it all. The stock ECU can handle flex fuel. I had a flex fuel sensor. I had to mount it somewhere. So this: + This = This It seems I don't have too many photos of the fuel lines, they went through many, many revisions. With the engine in again, I had to think about cooling, as a clutch fan isn't feasible/doesn't exist. Luckily the LS is setup for thermos from the factory as it has them, and luckily, the AU falcon's thermos match up nearly perfectly with a R34 radiator, as well as pushing a LOT of air. "but isn't the LS huge?" A lot of people are still suprised by how small it is in the engine bay. .... so much room for activities! You can't see it in this photo, but you can actually fit your entire arm down behind the motor and grab the bellhousing too, so my e85 sensor was not in peril. Radiator and Thermos in! Sometimes things just fkin work out! sometimes.
    6 points
  47. So at this point car looked like this: I had an engine, and gearbox, and clutch, all I needed was a loom, and that part was super easy. (says the internet) So things must be coming along great, fast, right? No. Would it be fast if you just wanted to put the engine in, wire up some kind of loom, not really care about much else, get a tailshaft and manifolds fabbed up and go do skids? Yes. Did I do this? No. I said a couple of posts ago that “While I’m here….” Was always going to be an element, and now is when it began to strike in full force, because while I also bought one shipment, there was actually 2, and there was scope shift. It went from “Hey lets just change the engine” To: Brain: Pssst… remember how this was all to remove annoying, worrysome things with this car? Me: ……. Yes? “Lets remove anything that caused annoyance in this car, EVER!” If I’d ever rolled my eyes, and dealt with it, or had to make an excuse for it, or “I’ll get around to it” it now became a prime target. There were quite a few of these things. Like in every car. Even yours. Don't you judge me! Given I needed the car to be engineered, I had a HICAS problem to deal with. I couldn’t use rose jointed arms/eliminator kit, and the stock ones had a lot of play in them, plus, they were f**kin shit, and already removed from my original subframe as they were quite shit. So were the arms i had replaced them with. So was my diff. All worked, pretty okay, and good enough for 99% of people, but sadly in this context, and the only context, I am the 1%. It was all bad. It was worse than bad, it was mildly annoying. So what’s a boy to do? Lets convert the subframe instead to a NON HICAS one. …..while it’s out, lets replace EVERY bush in it. …..while it’s out, lets weld in some subframe reinforcement plates, I mean if S15's crack them, surely a v8 will? (not that skylines seem to..) …..while it’s out, lets get my “1.5 way” Diff rebuilt, as this was clunking and being an asshole beyond what other diffs were doing. …..while it’s out, lets remove the shocks and put some stock suspension back in. It’ll be needed for the engineer anyway, and I wanted to rebuild my shocks because they were leaking, and slightly annoying. ……and did I need a re-valve? I went from 5-4 springs to 8-6 in the past..... I also changed the engine. So maybe I need a re-valve. In any case it was a question, and it could not be suffered to live. Pictured: Annoyance ^----ahhhh, refreshing! Also, while I’m buying bushes.. ….why not buy every bush? For the whole car? The front too? ….lets remove the front subframe while we’re at it, because.. there’s no engine there.. ……so maybe we should clean up the engine bay …maybe we should create fuel lines/adapt to the 34’s fuel system …. maybe we shouldn’t use rubber lines.. maybe we should have braided hose and fittings for fuel the whole way.. ….maybe we should get that e85 flex sensor all plumbed in.. before the car is going….instead of later …maybe we should have braided lines for the catch can too… while we're buying lines... …maybe we should have custom hard lines made for the coolant lines to the heater….. while we're doing lines.. …maybe we should relocate the oil cooler….... while we're buying lines.. ….maybe I should get around to cleaning up the engine bay… This was also the bulk of the cost, and a LARGE, LARGE, LARGE % of the head f**ks. We actually decided to do this in sections, i.e the rear of the car first, because it had 0 thinking to do, then we planned on doing the Engine bay part of things, then the middle/gearbox/clutch part last. The plan was to have everything done to the point where the only thing the car would need was wiring, and an exhaust fabricated up. Also, anyone want to buy my diff? This is where I spent $800 (receipts available!) to have my diff totally taken apart and rebuilt, and told nothing was wrong with my somewhat-clunkier-than-others 1.5 way diff, and that's just how they are. How they are is a 2 way diff, which was somehow missed in that $800 adventure. I'll leave it to your imagination how that diff drove with the new/refreshed/reinforced subframe.
    6 points
  48. She's alive again! Still gotta do new wiring for gearbox but waiting for a few bits and pieces. Ive ordered a guard roller and picked up a heat gun so I can flare the guards a bit to fit 275s under the ass end. Also got a new DA and some cut and polish to give her a good clean up. Few scratches and swirl marks to get out of her. Should keep me going for a bit while we can't drive anywhere... Snapchat-2117516364.mp4
    6 points
  49. HIlarious misfortunes aside, it's obviously not been all bad. Occasionally the car runs, and joyous occasions do actually occur! Uhhhh..... Greg... your car is blowing smoke at the track..... Catch can was full, problem went away.... and lets be honest, the IACV motor died (they die, pinning open) and I had a misfire problem meaning I had to run 9psi of boost maximum but look honestly at this stage of my car ownership I was at the track having fun and I put them firmly in to the WIN category! I put this photo in, my mental note thinking this was a time we all went out cruising the Great Ocean road and staying a few days in Warnambool..... only to be confronted by the fact I didn't bring the R34 with us on this trip because it was broken/off the road/conversion going on/something. Which my mind totally had no recollection of. This is probably pretty good allegory of my R34 ownership..Also MX5 Turbos are just awesome, no she doesn't let me mod it more than it currently is. I swear we did do the great alpine road with the Skyline, as I distinctly being unable to really spin the rears at the top of Hotham through the very high country noting it made suprisingly big difference, and following supercharged cars from 1979 with no cat generates one hell of a headache. Best track mod is definitely this though!! Yes, she is cooking sausages at the track day for everyone because "The canteen is no good, and boys don't eat they get up early, grab a coffee at 4am out the door and run on adrenaline and caffiene the whole day and that's no good!! People need food so they can stay focused and have fun on the track!!" My best drag run ever was an 11.9 with the old setup, which just left a ton of everything on the table, and that 11.9 was at like 103mph because an intercooler came off at about half track. And after every failed run (which was every run, due to intercooler pipes) a certain someone was under the car fixing it, putting hose clamps back together and generally providing relentless encouragement while I yarned on chatting to other random people at heatcote. I think most people would have happily struggled to get into the 11's but had the pitlane support than run a 10 and be there on their own, so as many things that have gone wrong, I know some really good people to make it all worth it. After all, all car stories are really just people stories. In any case the car has gone from: This: To this: (this made 430kw through an auto in this setup!) To.... this: To... this!: Actual cert number and VASS number removed for obbious reasons but ye. At some point I will write up (with pictures) the very long process in the above!
    6 points
  50. I'm working away at the moment and bored, so I have time to mention the current build details completed as of 1st of Feb. 2020. OCTOBER 1989 TH1 NISSAN BNR32 SKYLINE GT-R – BNR32-002605 ENGINE - SHORT · Nitto 2800cc full stroker kit (Fully balanced to 10000rpm) -Nitto billet steel full counter balance 77.7mm crankshaft -Nitto billet steel 121.5mm I-beam conrods w/ARP 2000 rod bolts -JE forged aluminium 87.0mm pistons - custom 21mm pin height with thin rings (top ring 1.0mm, 2nd ring 1.2mm). -Assembled and balanced further by Croydon Racing (CRD) · ACL race main + conrod bearings - STD clearance · Nitto 120psi competition oil pump w/ billet backing plate/gears modified by CRD · New factory Nissan 05U RB26 block prepped by CRD · Nitto drag spec triple layer metal head gasket 1.2mm · Nitto 1.1mm head to block oil restrictor · Rear turbo oil drain block off plate · ARP 2000 main studs · ARP custom age 625+ head studs · Ross Tuffbond metal jacket 2 piece billet alloy 4.1kg harmonic balancer with 12 tooth crank trigger disc · R32 GTR standard 8 blade Nissan water pump · Nismo 62 deg. thermostat · Ross heat exchanger delete plate · Gates racing nylon timing belt · Lewis engines custom 8 litre race sump,internal swing baffles ENGINE – HEAD AND TURBO · Modified head porting from Japan · New standard valve guides and 05U valves · Apexi GT step 2 - 264/264deg.10.6mm high lift camshafts · 2 x Apexi adjustable camshaft gears · Tomei high tensile steel cam stud kit · Supertech dual valve springs with titanium retainers · Supertech viton valve stem seals · Precision Gen2 ball bearing, CEA PT6466 1.00 a/r T4 twin scroll to V-band turbo · Turbosmart 44 micron turbo oil supply filter · Mines rocker cover breather baffle kit · Simota pod style air filter · Trust twin scroll T4, single gate turbo manifold · Trust/Greddy 47mm type R external wastegate with purple 1.5bar spring · 2 x Turbosmart dual port blow off valves EXHAUST · Modified HKS 90mm stainless front / dump pipe with Precision 90mm V band and clamp · 2 x HKS 75mm flat stainless parallel cat converters · 50mm wastegate outlet plumbed into system Custom Start racing Jap 100mm mild steel cat back system ENGINE-OTHER · OEM crank angle sensor - for now. · Latest revision Hitachi RB starter motor · ARD 150A low resistance alternator · Wiring specialties complete new engine harness · Wiring specialties smart coil harness · Wiring specialties knock sensor harness · Wiring specialties EV1 to EV1 injector extension pigtails · R35 VR38 genuine Nissan coilpacks ignition system · Godzilla motorsport billet alloy coilpack bracket · NGK Iridium R5686 racing series 8 spark plugs – 0.7mm gap · Cusco alloy radiator air guide · UAS top mount oil/air separator kit w/ secondary Auto staff catch can w/ K+N breather filter – PCV valve deleted · Franklin engineering head drain kit with -10AN braided line · HKS cast alloy intercooler hard piping kit · Trust drag tube and fin intercooler - 620 x 300 x 102mm · Trust/Grex oil cooler kit (w/ filter relocation and 70 degree thermostat) 299 x 186 x 50mm - 13 row · Nismo oil filter · Tomei metal throttle body / exhaust / intake manifold gaskets · Trust clear timing gear cover · Samco sport full silicone heater hose kit - blue · Samco sport 3 ply silicone radiator hose kit - blue · PWR 42mm full aluminium radiator · R134A aircon conversion · Reimax throttle body seals (refresh and enhancement set) ENGINE MANAGEMENT · Haltech ELITE 2500 engine management · Haltech GTR elite ECU plug and play harness · Haltech WB1 wideband kit with Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor · Haltech flex fuel / temp sensor · Haltech 4 bar MAP sensor · Haltech 150psi fuel pressure sensor · Haltech 3 port MAC valve for boost control · Hella M12 fast response air temp sensor 6PT 009 109 041 · Bosch 10bar / 140deg oil pressure and temp sensor FUEL SYSTEM · 100% constant fuel pump flow modification · 6 x Bosch EV14 1550cc @ 3bar injectors. Flow matched by Golebys. KMS 10.5mm full length adaptors. · NZ EFI injector ballast delete · SX adjustable fuel pressure regulator · Aeroflow 38mm 150 psi fuel pressure gauge on regulator · Trust twin entry fuel rail – 10.5mm. · Twin Speedflow 200 series teflon –8AN braided line pump to rail feeds. Single -8AN return line. · Too many bloody -8AN Speedflow 200 series fittings everywhere · Gates submersible 100psi hose in-tank fuel lines · 1 x AEM 400lph 50-1009 E85 fuel pump in-tank · 2 x Bosch motorsport 044 fuel pumps external to fuel rail · 2 x Speedflow 044 check valves (M12 to -8AN) · Speedflow 602 large 65 micron fuel filter supply to surge · UAS 4L aluminium surge tank w/ Perspex enclosure in boot DRIVELINE · PAR Engineering 1st - 4th straight cut dog box with OS giken centre plate, PAR upgraded billet shifter barrel interlock, PAR upgraded billet selector forks, PAR billet 28.5mm GM 26t spline input shaft, standard synchro/helical 5th and reverse. Gearset prepared by Sam at Neat Gearboxes in Adelaide. (Case bead blasted, new bearings, crack tested, shot peened and isotropic super finish) · Transfer case fully rebuilt and modified to 10 plate clutch · Midori Seibi digital high performance G sensor - RED · Nissan 350Z cast alloy solid push clutch fork upgrade · KMS Chromoly clutch fork pivot ball · Nismo 25% reduction quick shift kit · GKtech shift springs - hard · ATS spec 1 push carbon triple plate clutch. 1350kg pressure plate, optioned carbon treated floating discs, full carbon friction plates, 26t centre hub, chromoly 6.5kg flywheel · Nissan 3/4” push clutch slave cylinder - standard · Nismo transmission mount · Superpro polyurethane transmission crossmember bushes · APP stainless braided teflon coated full clutch line to slave · Quaife helical front limited slip differential · Quaife helical rear limited slip differential · Rear 31t spline half shaft upgrade (from stock 30t) · Trust cast aluminium extended rear diff housing BRAKES AND SUSPENSION · Front – Stock R32 GTR 4 piston w/ Intima SR pads · Front – DBA4000 slotted and ventilated rotors · Rear - Standard R32 GTR twin piston w/ Intima SR pads · Rear – DBA4000 ventilated rotors · Standard Front and rear adjustable strut braces · Whiteline Urethane front upper control arm bushes · Whiteline Urethane rear sub frame cradle bushes · Whiteline Urethane rear lower shock mount bushes · Whiteline Urethane rear diff mount bushes · Whiteline 22mm adjustable front sway /anti-roll bar · Whiteline 24mm adjustable rear sway /anti-roll bar · Whiteline front + rear swaybar links with Urethane bushes · Whiteline adjustable front castor tension rods · Whiteline adjustable rear upper control arms – KCA118 · Whiteline adjustable rear upper radius arms – KCA117 · Tein Mono Flex full height and 16 way damper adjustable suspension - 7kg front, 7kg rear spring rates WHEELS AND TYRES Street · Rays engineering NISMO GT1 Volk racing - 18 x 10 +12 · Yokohama ADVAN Neova AD08R 265/35R18 · Rays engineering centre caps · Rays engineering wheel nuts Drag · R33 GT-R 17” x 9” alloy wheels - Mickey Thomson E/T Street II - 275/40R17 INTERIOR · Cusco Safety 21 6-point roll cage · 2 x Bride Brix 1 reclinable racing front bucket seats · 2 x Bride S13/S14 type MO super low seat rails · Genuine Nissan R32 GTR Skyline mats · Genuine Nismo leather gearshift knob · Blitz 1-10 min. turbo timer · Mongoose M80 immobiliser · Sony 4 x 50w CD/MP3 head unit · Nismo 260km/h speedometer gauge · Haltech Can bus 52mm GaugeArt gauge · 60mm exhaust temp gauge · Momo sports steering wheel EXTERIOR · Genuine Nismo full ABS plastic bodykit · N1 headlights with H4 and H3C globes · ANDRA approved external battery isolator · Attain carbon fibre rear bumper exhaust guard · Kansai services racing front tow mount OILS AND FLUIDS · Engine oil – Castrol Edge 10w-60 · Coolant – Castrol Radicool · Power steering – Castrol power steer fluid · ATTESA hydraulics – Castrol ATF Dex III · Transmission – Motul Gear competition 75w-140 · Transfer case – Castrol Transmax Z · Front diff – Motul Gear competition 75w-140 · Rear diff – Motul Gear competition 75w-140 · Brake fluid – Castrol React Performance Dot 4 I think that's about it from what I can remember right now ?
    6 points
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