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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/21/2019 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    Your Brakelever looks like this? Time for an update! you need a sheet of smooth (automotive) leather, some Needles and waxed Thread. I get this from Aliexpress for less than 3$. First pull out the Metal Ring a little bit then cut the stitches And , surprise, the original isn`t genuine Leather! Took the original as a pattern for the new . Attention !!!! It isn`t a square. To get a perfect fit , cut 2mm narrower. Now do the punctures 3mm from the edge and 5mm wide You start like this. The thread has to be 4-5 times longer than the leather!!! To make it easier use a tube, keep attention that the cross of the tread , up and down, are all in the same way Now you can place the Leather to the Lever and then pull the seam tight do this with a crochet hook You can`t do this at once. Make 2-3 repeats! Keep an eye that the alignment is correct and the holes are at the same level. At the End .....the tricky Part. You have to put the Leather under the rabbet and fix it with the metal ring. The Leather has to be long enough but then it has a lot of wrinkles, is it to short it won`t be fixed Tricky. But in the End I´m very satisfied. A lot better than the old imitation Leather. I hope this is helpful for some!
  2. 7 points
    Finally got her on the hubber today! Put my 3rd fuel pump into the surge tank last night and upgraded the alternator cable. Car is on point! Ran out of turbo at 35psi making a whopping 1021hp! Can't wait to dial her in and see what she's got down the 1/4. 20190525_122858.mp4
  3. 7 points
    I will be putting a G25-660 0.92 on my RB26 soon. My inspiration was my missus' 25 neo with a GT3076r 0.82. makes 297kw on 19psi. Thing is a torque monster. (9.5:1 probably helps) The g25 660 with the 0.92 looks comparable to the GT3076r but seems to have the edge in turbine flow, compressor flow and spool. Will be interesting with stock unopened 25+ year old RB26. Breathes pretty heavily but doesn't use a noticeable amount of oil. Compression on No. 4 is 130psi, rest are 140. Probably wont push it past 20psi just to keep it together. Has been making 270kw for last 5 years with 34 factory twins. If i get a year out of it I will be happy. Have all the goodies ready to go, everything is a little overkill with room to improve when I build a motor g25 660 0.92 from ATS 6boost mani 50mm gate ID1050x Nistune pmas hpx-n1 3.5" turbo back 3/8 PTFE fuel lines/filter/reg/rail sized to suite E85. Will be tuned on 98 only for now.
  4. 7 points
    Quick update guys, box is getting rebuilt this week. Hoping to pick it up on the way home from Grafton on friday after work. Gone to a billet 1500hp sonnax gearset, modified pump, new clutches, upgraded band and a few other little thing in there. So hoping to throw it in on Saturday and put her back on the dyno and we'll take off the boost cut and see what she does. Hoping it tapers off somewhere before 30psi. So fingers crossed should be out on Saturday night
  5. 6 points
    yeah mate Hypergear do the best hiflow out there which is a great first upgrade and will get you real choice power bro. Hey I just remembered, I will have one for sale in about 4 weeks once my new turbo arrives. You will prob need to upgrade the coilpacks too though if you haven't already but don't worry I have a set of series 2 splitfires for sale too. You will also need something to raise the boost pressure; damn that's right, I also have a Mamba adjustable wastegate actuator to go with the turbo. Wow your lucky day hey
  6. 6 points
    Had it back on the dyno on Monday to check the tune as someone at a repair shop had f**ked around with it without permission. Played with the e boost controller a bit and rolled out 628rwhp with wheel spin. Can't complain about that on pump98 and just over 1.5 bar boost. 20190708_123500.mp4
  7. 5 points
    Hello. I bought myt skyline 4yrs ago. First I drove it thru winter (surprisingly good winter ride). At the spring stock turbo waste got stuck. Car was 3 months in the carage. I put kinuqawa bolt on turbo and cheap low mount exhaust manigold. It was rest of the summer this way. Then I planned to do some little changes at the winter. But as many of you know things start to get bigger. I start building rollcage and strip whole car down. When car was tripped it would be stubid not to do some things like stich weldin and sandblasting the body etc. I also wanted to do some wisual mods and strip everything extra weight out from the body. Rollcage caused some changes also. Like stock heater system is not fitting anymore. Rear subfame and diff bushes changed to aluminium. Rear and front subframes and stock controll arms got some extra strenght also. Bash bars in front and back wore made from scratch. Now car is going back to gether slowly and I hope to get it done before 2030 🤣 Here is some picks of it. More you can see from my ig @nuut3ro
  8. 5 points
    I though I'd keep this one to myself until yesterday when a resolution was reached and confirmed. If anyone has an Elite 2500 I suggest you upgrade to the latest 2.34.00 firmware and ESP 2.42 software immediately, and preferably do it with your coilpacks unplugged or at least the coilpack power feed unplugged. On the blue 2.8 Nitro 32 during a firmware update about six weeks ago I had a slight issue where during the update to my 2500, my coilpacks harness and main engine loom decided to smoke, catch fire and melt. Completely destroyed main harness along firewall and at coilpacks harness power supply plug. Car was running well before this and are using R35 coilpack upgrade from Godzilla motorsport. Cause was unknown at this stage so ECU was sent back to Haltech for inspection and test, and ends up testing fine. After post mortem on engine loom discovered the earth wire which carries the coilpack power had melted due to excessive current, taking out the rest of the cables it was loomed with. After bringing this up with Haltech the only conclusion I could reach was that during the firmware update it triggered all six coilpacks to try and charge the primary side simultaneously for an extended period of time without discharging, which in turn will make an excessive amount of current flow through the power supply wires to the loom. If you look at the coilpack 12v supply the positive is also much larger gauge than the ground wire. Compounding this is issue if you run R35 coilpacks which draw considerably more current than stock coils, if this is to happen the risk of cable failure is increased if all coils decide to charge all at once and then not discharge. After bringing this to Haltechs attention they decided to retain my Elite for further testing, which confirmed that the coilpack outputs could indeed randomly turn on during the firmware update, as the ECU will be in a state of no configuration while erasing the existing firmware and writing the new one. After receiving back my 2500, on the 21/10/2019 comes a new firmware 2.34.00 which the first changelog mentioned in it was the rectification of the coilpack outputs switching on during a firmware update. Car was finally finished off yesterday with the original Elite 2500 on 2.34.00, and a whole new wiring specialties main engine and coil pack loom to replace the fried stock one. Fired up first go, no DTC's and all sensors reporting as normal. Again, Please do update immediately with your coilpacks unplugged
  9. 5 points
    sounds more like the no-track blues, just take it, thrash it and fall in love again, and not that ghey motorkhana stuff either (yeah it's fun but still..)
  10. 5 points
    Compressor map for the G35-1050...
  11. 5 points
    Funny you write this now D I've been thinking about what to do for the 20 year anniversary!!! 😮 At the risk of sounding emotional, Its people like you and the others in this thread (sans slap) that make it worthwhile. 👍
  12. 4 points
    Meth is a hell of a drug.
  13. 4 points
    The water isn't critical to use. I would suggest driving it as is, then removing turbo for something more suitable once realising how laggy the car is.
  14. 4 points
    Turn the boost up to use more of the gauge. Problem solved
  15. 4 points
    Down stream of intercooler piping is done. Damn that was a mission..... I think I just made something simple really bloody complicated! A lot of pissing around but came up ok in the end. Apart from water/meth nozzle all piping is done. I'm really enjoying all this welding, going to need a future welding project to keep my eye in. Next is plumbing the coolant, oil and oil drain to the turbo. Should be pretty easy compared to what I've already done. Ive got an Aeroflow kit for the coolant and water so should be nice and neat. Turbo drain looks tricky with minimal clear paths from turbo to block fitting. Might have to make up some metal tubing to get past the turbo then just hose from there.
  16. 4 points
    Managed to get out and clean the car today. Just a small update, have slowly been getting used to it. Still havent tried high boost but car was serviced and is now running descent rubber all around. Got recommended from a mate to try Potenza RE003's. And can say that the difference is night and day and they are a great tyre for sure. Car feels so good to drive and even manage to have traction in Second Gear. Over all am loving it ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh. Cant wait to try the high boost at some point.
  17. 4 points
    Maybe have a normal non-obnoxious exhaust system? Then have a straight pipe to bolt up on the track or drag strip. I hate cars that are loud for no reason, especially under powered clapped out shit boxes. Gives the rest of the community of car enthusiasts a bad name.
  18. 4 points
    Took everything off and sent it away for coating, it’s all come back now and I only got a photo of the manifold while it was off the car
  19. 4 points
    Hey guys, A few more updates, have been busy wiring. Only have the gearbox sensors, the starter solenoid (received terminals for that this afternoon) electric water pump controller and the fuel pump to go and the car will be ready to crank. Anyway, a few pictures: I have been trying to figure out a way to run the wiring across the rocker cover here, it always looks so messy in the OEM state. I've come up with this setup which should look alright once it's sprayed in wrinkle black, same as the rocker cover. Coil packs terminated Crank trigger, oil pressure sensor, oil temp sensor, knock sensor Starter solenoid wire and a voltage reference wire for the alternator That's all for now guys, as usual thanks again for reading
  20. 4 points
    Might as well throw the rod out the front of the workshop
  21. 4 points
    Back from the painters, added side skirt extensions as well 🤙
  22. 4 points
    Update. Bought some new wheels...CE28N SL’s in 18x 10.5+22 wearing 295/30x18 AD08R’s. Might put them on in the next 3 months then push it back in the garage and whack it back on the trickle charger. 👌
  23. 4 points
    Here's one for my haltech homies. It was a bit of an expensive exercise but I had to try it. I ground out the inside of the gauge holder to fit them in then made a plate to house them. Turned out allright I guess.
  24. 4 points
    Hello valued SAU people. I went out and had some images of the LM and my wifes car taken by an actual photographer. Needless to say the photos were way better than anything I can produce. We went down to Docklands to take the images as I wanted an urban environment as the backdrop. We removed the plates for the rolling shots as I can't stand them. They just look so ridiculous on the front of the car. When I get custom plates, I'll be sure to get at least one slim line one. The rolling shots are easily my favourite. Here are the images (where the LM is the main focus):
  25. 4 points
    Yep - bollard and cameras - every time
  26. 4 points
    It's ALIVE. Still a fair way off anything meaningful but considering it's been off the road near 6mths I'm pretty happy. 20190516_172054.mp4
  27. 4 points
  28. 4 points
    Which part of the table did you follow? I can't see any of the options that say to leave the rear feed as is. You'll make lots of friends here dude - good luck with your engine..... FYI my mother died a few months ago - so lets hope we meet up one day and I'll rip whatever is left of your mother off you, you fcking arsehole.
  29. 4 points
    Sloooooow but steady progress nevertheless... Just waiting on bearings to come in now, as you can see mine were put together by a Muppet in a sandpit by the looks of things then the assembly of the motor will take place... Finally got the block back earlier this week from being sleeved and machined, took the opportunity to have the crank cleaned and grub screwed at the same time... always wanted to have a freshly cleaned and painted block, came out pretty good i think... At least in hindsight i now know every little inch of what's now gone into this motor so hopefully it will help me sleep that little bit better at night...
  30. 3 points
    I've owned this HR31 GTS-X Coupe for 15 years this October/November. It has seen some changes over the years and a lot of wasted dollars spent improving and iterating as time has gone by. Hopefully the current build will be close to what I want to achieve and it will be time to move onto other machines and enjoy what I hope will be this cars final form. A run down of the iterations (that I have am aware of). First...Why the name? Through each iteration of this car there was always fun made of the intake noises of this R31 and a previous N/A R31 wagon I owned. It was compared to the asthmatic penguin from Toy Story. So the name stuck as each generation the car gets even more ridiculous for intake & exhaust noises. New Vehicle Manufactured ~Sept 1987 (Black over Gray two tone - Auto) Originally Sold at Nissan Osaka somewhere between 1987-1988 (had a sticker on the rear bumper, but could be a service thing) Unknown history whilst in Japan (Not sure when it was converted to Manual) First Australia Owner Owned by a nephew of one of the Nispro owner(s)? 1997-2004 TBH I was naive and should have never purchased the car. Sadly, still common for unloved imports that sit for a long time and as all modified imports seem to be, what was promised was not what I purchased (the car needed a LOT of love). Also the car smelt like ass and had some sort of fungal cream container under the seat when I got it. My Original Purchase Originally had the RB20DET Redtop (no 6 was low on comp unbeknownst to me, ping=power right?) with an RB25 turbo, Wolf 3d V4 (strangely with V3 loom?), HKS cat back exhaust, some crap 16" CSA wheels and blown suspension. (at some point early on I put it into a gutter with the blown suspension, retreads and crap driving skills which took a month to find a new rear control arm). I gave the car a major service (water pump, timing belt, fluids etc) and was charged a fortune by the workshop (again Naive at the time). I put Pedders springs and shocks in as that was all that was really available off the shelf (huge mistake as Pedders put softer springs than factory in the rear). I replaced the leaking cut down truck core (as was the style in the early 2000s apparently) with a Hybrid brand and installed a front / dump pipe. I had the car tuned where I was told the previous owner tuned it and it made ~140rwkw and I drove it for ~3 months. Eventually we had spark breakdown and massive coil pack issues, breathing issues (turbo seals and some bad plumbing of breathers) so ended up in having the compression checked, this is where we found #6 was ~90psi (hence the 140rwkw down from a supposed 200rwkw) and we decided to pull the engine and look for a Silvertop RB20DET from an R32 GTST. I am pretty sure the care never made more than ~170 (found a dyno sheet among the old owners stuff) as the fuel pump and injectors were factory (again ping=power right?). I cannot seem to find any pictures from this era Wheezy Phase 1 The first phase of this car really being my build was when I found an auto RB20DET from a wrecker complete with ECU, loom, turbo etc. We spent ~3 months fixing wiring as the Wolf installation was an abortion, so we decided to go factory ECU and just keep the turbo back exhaust and front mount as the only performance related modes tied to the new motor. The car was amazing to drive and for about 18 months years the only changes were better shocks and springs (KYB Yellow fronts & Bilstein rears) and some custom Aurora springs from SA. Along with removing the HICAS (RB30E PS pump used) and installing solid sub frame bushes from a Z31). There were also some Black Racing RS-8 style wheels I purchased off a friend at the time (but only a set of 3), I ran these on the front (gold rattle can paint of course) and the CSA at the rear, it looked like dogshit so I found some Impul 16" 5 spoke wheels and rattle can painted the wheels gold (you will see a theme here) and also had a Blitz R-VIT? fitted and tuned by Dr. Drift it made ~160rwkw. Did a drag day or two and loved driving the car as a daily whilst I finished Uni. Again, not many photos I can find of the standard Silvertop look Wheezy Phase 2 Things started to get serious when I decided since my university degree was complete I could afford to turn the car into a semi street/track car. So I purchased an NA CA18 S13 and took the HR31 off the road. Initially I thought ~6 months to paint, install suspension, brakes, turbo upgrade, injectors, fuel pump and ECU would be a reasonable time. I was wrong. About 20 Months later I had the car finished. I went through a few turbo, manifold and ECU combinations before settling on a full Trust TD06SL2-20G hot side with trust manifold, PowerFC, Blitz clutch, RX7 injectors, Bosch 023 fuel pump, R33GTST brakes, JIC Coilovers (second hand), bucket seats, rebuilt diff, Kakimoto stainless exahaust and an eBay cut and shut Front Facing Plenum. I also purchased new from Simmons some custom fit FR17s in 3 piece as they were the only wheels I could get at the time which I liked the design of and were not drug money. (Ironically 2 weeks after ordering the Simmons I found brand new Volk GT-C's for the same price, but it was too late). The car made ~270-280rwkw on the unopened RB20DET silver top (tuned by Trent @ Chequered) and was scary AF to drive for the sort of power street cars were generally making at the time (This was ~2007). It got an R31 House Bonnet at one point along the way, new BC/Emotion Coilovers, cam gears, oil cooler, RB30 radiator (twin core) and E85 (EV14's & Walbro 460 pump). The above shot is from the cars photo shoot for HPI Magazine. I did a number of hill climbs, drag days, track days, show and shines etc over the next 10 years. The last thing I did before it's last track day was R33 steering rack fabrication/installation, braided brake lines and new slotted and dimpled rotors (dog bones & R33 GTR discs up front now) and some Kuhmo semis on much lighter single piece wheels. In Oct 2017 I spun a bearing in it for the second time since the TD06 was fitted. (likely my negligence TBH). The first time we slapped bearings in and sent it; that lasted 8 years. But this time the knock was bad so engine out. Wheezy Phase 3 (Current Build) This is likely my 2nd to 3rd house deposit sunk into this particular vehicle. Quite depressing... In December 2017 I purchased a S1 RB25DET from an R33 GTST Automatic (sighted running). Again full running gear on the engine etc. I was going to put this engine in with the existing setup (although concerned the L2 was too small). But as I started stripping off accessories and checking the engine out I decided I didn't like the idea of a 25 year old engine going back in and breaking the next time I go to Sandown. So now I'm building a forged RB25DET, have a brand new RB25DET gearbox from Nissan and a TD06SH-25G from Trust to fit onto my manifold. (Yes I could go GTX GenII and 6Boost, but I'm a die hard Trust turbo guy for now and didn't want to totally re-do the hot side just yet) Oh and the Simmons are also gone!!! The engine bay was painted (as it was never done in the phase 2 build) and 10+ years have passed since then. The original panel beaters painted again and commented how well looked after the paint was (I think the car has driven ~15K since then). I was hoping for the engine to be completed by the time I came back from Japan last week but unfortunately there has been a wait (good things come to those who wait right?). So likely the engine will be back ~July and I can get the thing running and back on the road by October at earliest (which means December based on past history). Final Plans The car needs Brembo's, Fixed back drivers seat, some new wheels from Japan (18's this time) and a more modern ECU to protect the engine and get more out of the built motor. Along with the above, there are a heap of trims and seals I want to replace as aftermarket options become available as Genuine seals and rubbers are almost non existent for HR31s. I've probably missed a heap of things, but that is what I can recall over the time I've owned it. Hopefully I can provide some updates are I start to show some tangible progress. - Wheezy
  31. 3 points
    and wannabe 1%er's who ride Harleys with straight thru pipes, wearing 1500 bucks worth of Harley clothing to make up for their dick and balls stashed in their missuses apron.
  32. 3 points
    Mid section being welded up sitting nice and snug to the body to help get it into my driveway without hitting
  33. 3 points
    Have now setup the heights as per the recommended 355mm front and 345mm rear (not sure I like the look yet). Fitted my refurbished wheels with my Nankang NS2R's (TW120)... Pics are taken at the new place (7.5acres) with me channeling my inner crocodile dundee with one of my lawnmowers that were included with the property...
  34. 3 points
    Yeh its interesting. I am in the process of getting rid of my HKS F-con rubbish in favour of a Link g4+ and upgrading my trigger system and fuel system at the same time. Once done the G30-770 be on the next list to replace the -5's. So sooner they come out the better so someone else test for me.
  35. 3 points
  36. 3 points
    Thought I'd share my setup since there doesn't seem to be much info/examples out there for this particular setup. Perfect for spirited driving on back/mountain roads, not so ideal for daily driving or putting around at 3000 rpm, according to suspension guy. No getting around full lock scrub without invasive mods (rear guard rolling and front guard removal). Otherwise everything fits. Skyline model = BCNR33 Wheel diameter = 18 in Wheel width = 10.5 in Wheel offset = +15 mm Tyre and size = 295/30/R18 AD08Rs Modifications to fit = Adjusted suspension. Lower and camber, front and rear. As said above, you will need to run slightly more camber than you would in a street car.
  37. 3 points
    If you have got very high compression you may be able to get away with it with E85 and a good tune. Talking about wallet drainers over 5 years I spent over $40,000 on a C34 Stagea - I could get quite a good RS6 for that now!
  38. 3 points
    I said sell GT and buy GTT You were the one saying to piss money away modifying a NA Skyline. Im a advocate for common sense not stupidity. I dont focus on one brand, I like alot of different brands, just like a SAU club meet or motorsport event, everything turns up, no one cares what you bring, do I like Skylines, hell yeah, would I own another, yes, this one, but Mrs and bank account says no > Lifestyle and mentality, LOL, as you on smack, I'm sure the OP doesn't want to piss money away, even in his current lifestyle and mentality. If he is smart and saves his money instead of pissing it away, he can get his GTT, or GTR, or Golf R, or 135i, or DR30, or...a house. But feel free to tell him to spend his money in whatever way you see fit, that's what I did. That's the beauty of forums. Why listen to me anyway, I'm just an opinionated punter voicing my opinion, just like you. ROCK AND ROLL
  39. 3 points
    I've been looking at replacement seats for a couple of months but have always been undecided on which ones. Last week we took a visit to GSM Performance to consult with the sales team on various seats and to try them. Being a 'bigger build' comfort was top priority, and trying the seats out before commiting was a major advantage. It was a tough decision as there were so many nice seats,but in the end I went for the Recaro. I managed to source some R34 GTR Bride rails that had been modified to fit the GTT. Upon ftting I noticed the Recaro seat mounts were alot wider than the rail. Several hours of swearing later, I had some brackets made up and everything bolted together. I'm unsure if the GTR seat rail is different height wise, but the seats do slope down which has changed the driving position abit One feature I really like is the reclining lever that's neatly camouflaged into the harness cut outs. The suede centres make the seats pop alot more than the all leather equivalent Its abit snug inside, the side bolster does currently touch the doorcard. I'm hoping I can modify the mounts I made to bring it over abit.
  40. 3 points
    Toilet seat isn't even up....next thing will be a picture of lamps that match the ornamental cushions
  41. 3 points
    And a couple of small updates for the GTR A pair of definitely not genuine Tein bonnet struts, but they were $70 and they do the job perfectly well. Only required a tiny bit of modification as they are made to fit an R34 Also got a HKS Racing Chamber kit, which seems to have completely fixed my turbo shuffle issues
  42. 3 points
    Push pull done, Transmission remounted, ABS delete Done, Solid engine mounts in. Knew it was too good to be true, Just realized I lost an engine mount bracket during the house move. D`:
  43. 3 points
    Lines all nipped up, all fluids filled in motor, bled coolant system without engine running (will bleed it again once she starts up). Fitted inconel studs and locking nuts to manifold/turbo as well. Looks like it's ready for fab soon!
  44. 3 points
    ATR45SS Rb25det NEO round 2 with fuel pump issue sorted. Now pulling 400rwkws at 24psi on E85 fuel. Car mods are listed in video below: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrVjIMxIFrA
  45. 3 points
    I went through this with my 32(GTR) and found it unreliable and slow. Went down to BOC gases (Australian gas chain), got 9 litres of liquid nitrogen and a container for something like $46, then used that. One of the most fun things you can do with a car. You just pour it out, everything starts cracking immediately and you'll see it start popping up on its own, then you just put it in a bag. Easy, quick, and you get to play with liquid nitrogen. One of those strange situations where you're like "so, I don't even need to give you my ID... you're just giving me liquid nitrogen to do whatever I want with and it's cheap?... OK, that seems like something which needs to be way better regulated, but I'll take it". Had about a litre left over, so I poured it over some bananas and let my niece and nephew smash them with a hammer. Good clean fun.
  46. 3 points
    Nothing wrong with those numbers....doing a comp test cold is always 'a trap for young players' as the saying goes. Forgies rattle a bit when cold anyway. Enjoy your Skyline mate!!!!
  47. 3 points
    You are better off spending the money to fix the issues you have, than to put useless parts that'll degrade performance.
  48. 3 points
    Seriously dude you should stop giving advice
  49. 3 points
    So you need a low pressure device that will spread the water out over the cars' panels? You're welcome.
  50. 3 points
    Went to put coolant in last night to start it up and then there was a big puddle on the floor so gave up. First thing this morning removed radiator and it had a crack where I had ground abit too much off to fit it better. A quick weld and refit it all and no more leaks 😃 Put in a battery, plugged in the laptop and loaded a base file. Started testing injectors, igntion, set up e throttle & calibrated cas. Hit the key and it spluttered to life but won't stay idling BUT it does start. Have organised to get some help sorting the tune. Pretty happy that it at least starts and done everything myself this time around. Will get a video once its running nicely
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