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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/02/2019 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    Introducing Z-Tune #15, Australia's newest resident Z-Tune. We found and purchased Z-Tune #15 with the intention of doing a simple refresh before shipping it back to Melbourne, Australia - Plans change however. With the uneasy feeling of a modified Z-Tune the car was instead delivered to Nismo Omori Factory in Yokohama, Japan there would be nobody else more suitable for the job we had planned. A complete certified Z-Tune restoration by Nismo. Starting off with the vehicle; silver, a little tired where you can expect it but in hindsight still a very good base to begin our project. Though we can't ignore the elephant in the room; the HKS V-CAM & Steering wheel which are addressed at a later stage. Whilst we didn't receive any photos during the process, I'll try to fill you in with as much information and photos as I have on hand. An introduction to Z-Tune #15; As you may or not know is that the Z-Tune was built to celebrate Nismo's 20 year anniversary in 2003 and of course 19 customers & their R34 GT-R V-Spec's were used as a base with less than 30,000 kilometers to undergo the Z-Tune program. Here's our car, before our initial inspection (An agent inspected and confirmed the vehicle prior to purchase) and before it was sent to Nismo Omori Factory. It's new home for the next long months/year ahead, Omori Factory. Our plan; A complete head to toe restoration, no cut corners, all work certified by Nismo Omori Factory and done to their particular high standard of work many of you know so well today. This was a must. Inside and out, the car was taken apart for it's rebirth. Obviously the car was driven and modified, enjoyed, thoroughly perhaps. That's ok! That's why it's here. Here you can see some photos of the undercarriage which is in wonderful condition despite being driven. Purist look away; The biggest controversial topic, as some of you may already seen is that we had decided Z-Tune #15 to be resprayed Midnight Purple III. A full respray, engine bay, boot, undercarriage and obviously the body panels were all resprayed by Nismo. We couldn't pass up an opportunity to respray the car a different colour, at a cost of course. We didn't just stop at the body and surrounding aspects; we did the subframes too! with fresh Nismo arms, suspension and bushings to compliment. As usual high traffic areas covered in protective film to prevent any potential unnecessary scratching. No stone left un-turned. The Z2 RB28 engine was removed to undergo it's full restoration returning it to OEM specification. This means, the HKS V-CAM is gone! As great as the V-CAM system is, we think it'll be better to return this engine back to original condition. We thought it'd also be fitting to add in the Nismo Carbon Intake Piping Kit to suit even if it wasn't on the original Z-Tune parts list. My only gripe is that the carbon weave found on all Nismo products are not 'visually' consistent. I would've loved it if Nismo took photos during the process so I could expand a bit more on everything, but unfortunately they did not so I've worked with what I've got. Apologies! Here are some photos of the completed MNPIII Z-Tune! As some of you may have already seen, our car is in the latest issue of GT-R Magazine (#147) Here's a behind the scenes photo of the shoot. On it's way to Melbourne, Australia! (With a quick detour to GT-R Festival 2019 at Sydney Dragway before coming home) Come see this car at GT-R Festival before it heads back down to Melbourne!
  2. 10 points
    RB 28 with GTX3584RS used as Track car HKS step 2 2.8 full counter rank rods and pistons HKS 272 exhaust cam HKS VCAM Pro with 10.2 lift Ported head - ferrera valves etc Peterson dry sump running vacuum N1 block Nismo Plenum Modified ITB's 6 Boost stainless steel Promod manifold (Small runner) GTX3584RS 1.21 rear housing E85 Runing through Sachs carbon carbon clutch and flywheel (3kg)- Albins straight cut transmission and Nismo diff stopped at 26 PSI 562 RWKW was 420 KW at 13psi 705 ftlb torque. Have posted so anyone thinking of using this turbo can see the results. Probably a better choice would be the precision PT6870 or 6875 with a large runner manifold
  3. 9 points
    Hi all, things are mostly dead in here but I figured its still worth recording this somewhere as people here or out in the world who google stuff may find some of this interesting as there seems to be a bit of interest in these turbos from a value for money stand point - but a fair bit of conflicting info... so I thought I'd add something which *I* view as kinda credible info, take it as you will As a bit of background, one of my best mates @Looney_Head has been chipping away at his build in his garage over the years - he has done most of it himself or with help from mates... doing things on a relative budget, but "properly". Probably unsurprisingly here he picked my brain for turbo choices, and around ten years ago the build was going to be a stock/reconditioned RB30 with an R32 RB25 head so the target was around 370kw @ hubs on BP98 so I suggested a Borg Warner S360SX with .91a/r hotside as it could be had for NZ$900 at the time, should offer decent response vs power vs reliability and being a large frame T4 divided turbo there should be an easy upgrade path with minimal changes if he decided to in future. Turns out that was a good plan as feature creep resulted in the build having a forged RB30 bottom end and an R33 RB25 head with some Tomei 256 cams and a mild port job. We knew that the turbo was going to now be well out of it's depth but being that the car is an R32 GTS-t it probably was likely to end up still being a bit of a weapon so when it was already ready we decided to tune it up and find any bugs etc and he could have fun with it for a while. On the dyno as I progressively increase BCS duty cycle it started becoming clear that it was hitting a brick wall pretty much bang on where I expected it to - basically being unkeen to support more than 18-20psi boost at 7000rpm, so we ended up stopping with boost peaking at 23psi and bleeding back to around 19psi and making a very fat 447kw @ hubs on E70ish. See the mighty S360SX dyno plot complete with choke as soon as it hits 600hp: That proved to be a very very fun street package, but the opportunity came up to get our hands on an upgrade for a good price so after much umming and ahhing we settled on an S362SX-E (aka S361SX-E, aka S300SX-E 8376, aka S300SX-E 61/68 depending on whose nomclementure you subscribe to). The process of chosing that was actually pretty challenging due to the conflicting info on the net which is part of the reason for me starting this thread - to share the process and reasoning and then the interim results, hopefully to clear things up a bit. Firstly, our hopes were to free up the flow up top with minimal cost to response. So, questions you may find hard to answer or generally look misleading when looking at these: 1) The S362SX-E with the 76mm turbine wheel (there is an option to use the 80mm wheel) can go directly into an exhaust housing which fits the the S360SX turbine wheel. They are an identical 76mm inducer/68mm exducer profile. 2) Despite being exactly the same size the SX-E turbine wheel is DIFFERENT to the SX wheel, the aero is very obviously different. The SX has "flat tips" while the new SX-E has cupped tips - I'll attach pics, but its pretty obvious how the exhaust gas will react with the wheel as it "hits" and flows through the blades will change. See below: (S360SX turbine left, S362SX-E turbine right): 3) The "76mm .91a/r" turbine flow map on Matchbot relates to the SX-E wheel. I had to work this out anecdotally, but it became clear that the S300SX flat-tip wheel is a bit of a nugget flow wise and in combination with the pretty average flow of the 60/83mm S360 compressor results in very high EMAP if you want to make >500whp. Due to that, and the internet being mainly convinced that the S300SX and S300SX-E turbines are the same people often go for larger a/r turbine housings than they need when going 76mm SX-E turbos. The 76mm .91a/r hotside combo on an S300SX-E flow the same as a 1.05a/r 74mm EFR turbine. It has been proven to support 900whp (US dynos)/ near 600kw (Oz dynos) on the right setup. People are often oversizing the hotsides on Borg Warner Airwerks turbos and living with more lag than they need, imho. So, after my research and deciding that there was a bit of misinformation out there - I decided that going for the 76mm turbine wheel in the SAME .91a/r housing we'd be running should make for minimal sacrifice to response but not actually choke the turbo despite the fact that we had seen massive signs of choke on the old turbo in the same housing (VE was dropping off increasingly badly in the 220kpa and 240+kpa rows in the engine efficiency table - and boost control duty cycle had a major dogleg after 5000rpm to target 240kpa MAP). In terms of compressor wheel, the "S362SX-E" actually has a 61.4mm inducer and 83mm exducer, so identical outer size to the S360SX (or 8375) that was being replaced but only 1.5mm bigger inducer. This wee thing is a bit of a gem on paper, the loose info on the net would suggest that the 63mm and 64.5mm inducer variations are big steps up but after close investigation I found that actually - the compressor maps for those turbos "cut off" at around 54-56% while the 61.4mm one only runs to 58-60%. If you compare these maps at "efficiency for efficiency" then the 63mm BARELY pips the 61.4mm wheel, and the 64.5 has a max of 6% more flow in the 2.2-2.7 pressure ratio range that your focus would be on a decent RB. When you consider that the 63 and 64.5mm wheels are both 87mm exducer, there is no way there is not going to be a significant impact to spool or transient response. The big flow advantages on those bigger inducers are at pressure ratios of 3+, which is not relevant - and the 66+mm inducer is just not relevant to our interests as we weren't looking for huge power. Here is the old and the new turbos: (SX-E left, SX right) I actually overlayed the ol' faithful EFR8374 compressor map (in red) onto the S362SX-E compressor map and it becomes obvious the SX-E is a good thing, having a better surge line but also providing equal or better compressor efficiency at almost every relevant flow/pressure point on the compressor map. So, decision made, turbo install and off we go for some dyno hilarity! At low boost it was like the turbo was identical, it was basically tracking the exact same boost curve and making the same power at ~10psi - no shocks there. What got interesting however is that as I started targetting higher and higher boost levels, the BCS duty cycle could stay relatively "flat" whereas with the S360SX I was needing to bump duty more and more from 5000rpm up - and I also ended up basically copying the VE numbers from 200kpa row and pasting it to every row above that and having lambdas hit target perfectly - while I needed to roll them back with the S360SX. Naturally, this was reflected in power numbers as well. Things were starting to get fun! When I targetted the 240kpa MAP level when there S360SX was done we were all excited and looking forward to seeing what happened things got more dumb than we hoped - the Link did a fuel pressure cut at 6500rpm, and looking at the logs there was indeed a fuel pressure drop starting to set in We ummed and ahhed about it and wondered if the surge tank was a bit too small so tried increasing the ramp rate to do a 6s sweep instead of a 9s sweep but alas no, protection kicked in at exactly 6500rpm We tried bumping base fuel pressure to see what would happen and it did allow is to complete a base run at 240kpa (20ish psi boost) and still no signs of dropping off in turbo flow but alas fuel pressure was still dropping. VERY annoying but we had to call it a day and we are looking the fuel delivery issue for now. Nonetheless, 466kw on 1.4bar with power climbing to redline while making 300kw before 4000rpm was very encouraging. We did do a "controlled" test run at 1.6bar to see what fuel pressure and turbo flow would do etc as dyno time is hard to get so we wanted to be sure that everything else would keep up with more and she is STILL eating it up, hits 1.5bar by 3700rpm on a 9s ramp and we saw a peak of 489kw with SOFT timing so I am very confident that we could have walked past 500kw if we hadn't run into fuel delivery woes! Firstly, shot from the link during a 9s sweep (as I forgot to get a pic of the boost curve from the dyno haha) And the dyno plot.... Red dotted line: Old S360SX-E at 1.4bar bleeding back (same BCS duty cycle as the SX-E runs here) a 9s sweep Solid red line: S362SX-E at 1.4bar on a 9s sweep with fuel cut Solid green line: S362SX-E on a 6s sweep with fuel cut Solid blue line: S362SX-E on a full 6s sweep There was no specific tuning done with the S362SXE at this boost level beyond targetting boost, timing has not been fully optimised at this boost with this turbo. Anyway, I've attached some pics to go with the long story that anyone who knows me will know this is what they were in for when I posted. Thought there might be some useful stuff for anyone who has been curious about these things, but either way this kind of thing is handy for our own records to look back on Feel free to ask questions or offer input or whatever, in regards the fuel pressure thing we are not looking for input on that thanks, please keep the conversation on topic... we have stuff to do there - I've just not shared everything to keep it relevant to turbos. Cheers all!
  4. 9 points
    Your Brakelever looks like this? Time for an update! you need a sheet of smooth (automotive) leather, some Needles and waxed Thread. I get this from Aliexpress for less than 3$. First pull out the Metal Ring a little bit then cut the stitches And , surprise, the original isn`t genuine Leather! Took the original as a pattern for the new . Attention !!!! It isn`t a square. To get a perfect fit , cut 2mm narrower. Now do the punctures 3mm from the edge and 5mm wide You start like this. The thread has to be 4-5 times longer than the leather!!! To make it easier use a tube, keep attention that the cross of the tread , up and down, are all in the same way Now you can place the Leather to the Lever and then pull the seam tight do this with a crochet hook You can`t do this at once. Make 2-3 repeats! Keep an eye that the alignment is correct and the holes are at the same level. At the End .....the tricky Part. You have to put the Leather under the rabbet and fix it with the metal ring. The Leather has to be long enough but then it has a lot of wrinkles, is it to short it won`t be fixed Tricky. But in the End I´m very satisfied. A lot better than the old imitation Leather. I hope this is helpful for some!
  5. 8 points
    I have actually had my car for over 10 years now, so this build thread is retrospective. It may or may not have been prompted by going through many old photos. There are many broken things in these photos, and over the years since getting my humble NA+T Auto sedan (without any knowledge of it being NA+t and not a GTT) It has, in somewhat sequential order. Replaced the NA+T with a GTT engine. Exploded that GTT engine on the dyno immediately. Replaced fuel pump 9 times, some dead pumps, some melty wiring. Also managed to somehow break a R34 fuel tank multiple times, in the red circled area! Thanks, Optima! Replaced the ECU that caused this (TLDR Emanage Blue's are shit, but it was 2008) Built a forged RB with a 2.9 Stroker kit, proceeding to break everything around the car minus the components of this kit. By this I mean 3x RB25 DET Neo blocks, and a head. Here's some nice engine building photos, and quite a bit of engine GORE. This kit seemed to be the most indestructable thing again, as the engine found itself apart more times than together. Each time every component was tested, retested, Xrayed, and it was ready for more. However it seems everything else around it wasn't! Along the way, Blown up the shift kitted MV auto gearbox, near instantly. Built a GTT Auto gearbox, complete with aftermarket TCU, which broke Trent's dyno @ Chequered, forcing him to upgrade it. Had Hypergear, Garrett, GTX3076, Turbos.. .....Drove the car into an enbankment and had to reshell entire car. Re-Wiring the Automatic gearbox into a different/new car was a seamless easy experience, with absolutely no problems whatsoever! GTX3582, and Borg Warner EFR7670's as Turbos after that.. Many dyno sheets of all these setups, over my approximately seventy million trips to chequered tuning. Looks great, doesn't it? Many in progress shots but these turbo setups had their own problems oh boy did they ever! There was also a 6boost manifold that had to be machined 2mm so it was actually flat... photos.... somewhere. 3-4 different sets of rims over this time. Complete with brake upgrade kit, with its own f****king issues!! Just after the Borg Warner EFR Turbo, the auto found its way exiting my vehicle,, and the car was manually converted, and to quote to the words of JMA's automotive: "Never bring this f**king car here ever again!" so I'm sure the install was smooth, and had absolutely no problems at all in any way. Somewhere along the line, seats were installed/upgraded/tested: Drove the car to Adelaide, all was well, all happy with the world, to find out I almost melted the car to the ground 7 different ways from sunday due to how lines, and wiring was packaged. Delicious. Hilarious, brief (oh god, so very brief) backstory complete, this all cumulated with ripping apart the entire car and starting again. I then, replaced every bush in the car, LS Converted the motor, and is now currently Legally engineered in Victoria (incl full EPA/IM240 test passing experience). Info continued. Previous info can be elaborated on if anyone cares first! Bonus installation photo of my friend helping me with my Bilsteins (which Bilstein revalved to suit the LS when I got the whole thing weighted when that was done).
  6. 8 points
    Sorry Ben At this point I had to settle down for what I assumed it was gonna be a fkin long wait, because while "Wiring" and 'An Exhaust' are two small categories it wasn't exactly two simple small jobs. However the people doing it had done it before, and it was interesting to see how certain things were approached differently/similarily. Luckily thank f**k the general response was "Oh so we actually only need to do wiring and an exhaust... you know how people are..." This got me a considerable discount, so there you go people... be nice! It was 2 months between me towing the car there, and the first start which in the grand scheme of things, actually pretty excellent. Driver side and Passenger side headers. Rest of the exhaust connecting to my original mid muffler. We later added 2 more cats to this, so as it currently sits on my car.. it has 4 cat converters. Two are 100 cell, two are 400 cell. Back to back tests show... 0 kw difference. They also show 0 AFR difference, because they were/are all removable by vbands with some straight pipe. The system is twin 3inch exhausts that merge just before the diff into the 3.5. I can only assume thats why putting cats before this merge has no real restriction that I would care about... Passenger side ---^ ^--- Driver side. There's a slight notch (not visible here) to give clearance to the steering rack. There was plenty of clearance everywhere and I don't know why I was even worried to begin with. I don't know what (if any) difference having asymmetrical headers even does, but it was a too f**king bad this is the only way it's going to work kind of situation! The wiring side I have no photos of, because it was a case of buying a new (i.e not 20 years old) aftermarket standalone loom and having the guys there wire this in/run this in, which wasn't apparently too difficult at all - all of the Skyline gauges are still in place because they did the very smart thing of simply putting the sensors (dash temp gauge, oil pressure etc) into the LS directly. The only things to get wired in was the Speedo using the Jaycar converter box. Post: Conversion note, this is shit. I later changed this to a Dakota Digital converter box (https://www.dakotadigital.com/) which works WAY, WAY, WAY better, as the Jaycar one is laggy, and it works, but only over 40kmh, requires dip switches to configure, vs Bluetooth on a phone.... This is a bit of a problem when you're talking to a VASS Engineer. We also had fun stuff with my Racelogic traction control system, which was wired into the 8 injectors, only for me to eventually figure out I had bought the 6cyl version.. (why would I have ever needed the 8cyl version, said past Gerg), so any time I was turning this system on the thing would just permamently ground 2 injectors causing some MEGA, MEGA rich misfiring and general drive like shit-ness. Later doing some digging we bypassed 2 of the cylinders entirely, (i.e wire it into only 6) and the system now works great.. so.. SO much better than it did with the RB and Turbo. even if it can only cut fuel to 6, it .. never really needs that kind of intervention and driving around on 2cyl is impossible anyway... so 6/8 is great! Once this was all wired in, I attended with what was (hopefully?) a reasonable base tune with the HPTuners MVPI, a working wideband to remove VATS from the ECU and many, many, many, many f**kin hopes and prayers.. ... and the whole thing started up on the 2nd crank with a battery that was 12 months old. ... exactly one year to the day the engine got pulled ... nothing leaked, nothing smelled, everything behaved car was f**king LOUD though, comically loud. Like "lol you cant drive this 5 meters down the street" LOUD. So some laps of the industrial park had to do. Turns out a turbo is a really, really, really effective muffler. Next step: Varex!
  7. 8 points
    Final piece to the car. New shoes!
  8. 7 points
    No sorry guys it's going to be mandarin red the reason is when I was a first year apprentice I brought a LX SS 253 hatch with flares. I had the car for about 7 year until a woman failed to give way and T boned me. I kept the motor and sold the rest off, I've always regretted selling it and not fixing it.
  9. 7 points
    Man my back is sore lol. A fixed bucket seat, semis, several solid suspension arms, rock hard suspension but yeah ended up doing over 450km today. 1.5 tanks of fuel later 😂 Good drive with @PLYNX and my mate in his R33. Okay, admittedly it was pretty fun and first time I've actually stretched the new setup with a lousy tune. Shoots flames, 11:1 afrs, lazy 10 to 12 degrees of timing but it is wanting to light up 255 Nankang AR-1 semi slick tyres. Still need to swap out thr gate spring to a softer spring, running a 4 port solenoid and with a 1bar spring there's very limited resolution, kept spiking and hitting engine protection.
  10. 7 points
    Been to many music festivals, clubs, raves around Australia and other parts of the world but just last week I was fortunate enough to go to Tomorrowland in Boom, Belgium. This year marked the 15th Tomorrowland to take place. It's amazing how the entire country takes such pride and involvement in the festival and people of all ages are supportive and participate in such a magical experience. Anyhow, probably no-one or very few are interested in this but if you do then here's a few photos of the mainstage on closing night. My wife, friends and I were lucky enough to get a great viewing point, right on the viewing platform that was closest to the stage. FWIW, I came dressed in a VB singlets and a Bunnings straw hat 😂 And here's Day 1, mainstage. Just casually sporting a Bunnings hat lol.
  11. 7 points
    Pulled out the nav unit to make way for the EMU. Made up a bracket/fascia to house it and have two provisions for the option harnesses. I still need to wire in the LC2 and mount the unit but that can be done after run in.
  12. 7 points
  13. 7 points
    Not much has been happening with her lately. We've made a new catch can as the old one was restricting it and pushing a bit of oil into it at roll racing. Was having to drain it before eliminations, now with the new one we went the whole night without draining it. Got home and there was about 150-200mL of fuel/oil which is a lot better than what it was considering it still has 2x1.2 feeds into the head. Next time we pull the motor down ill be blocking the center feed which will hopefully sort it out completely. Car has been going well at roll racing. We've found the limit of the tyres at around 28psi boost. Timed with the dragy have been running a 4.1 100-200km/h time out there which is still half a second off the quickest RWD car out there. Getting out of the hole is the hardest part being restricted to only being able to go 40-50% throttle until hi gear to avoid wheel spin. Now looking into going 3.7 diff gears which should allow us to get off the mark a bit better. Hopefully try and get that done before next roll racing. Also new tyres are needed and I also want to get some coilovers for the front to raise it up as she is sitting very low with the new setup. Raising it should help transfer the weight onto the rear wheels a bit better. We will probably end up going to a 275/60 MT which will open up a whole other can of worms. Will have to do a bit of modding back there to get the 28" tyre to fit as it will be very snug. In the meantime I'm going to get some smaller spacers and pull a tad bit more camber out in the back to try and get that little bit extra contact on the tyre.
  14. 7 points
  15. 6 points
    So at this point I had a super illegal car sitting at home, with a few things still needed to be sorted out Namely: 1) Android head unit, I wanted something I could operate without touching my phone, and a head unit is less than a fine. 2) Air conditioning still needed to be plumbed in, I had the compressor bolted to the block, and the rest of the skyline system, but no lines attached, so started asking around for that. 3) I needed a tune. I was pretty confident road tuning the car as the car actually is pretty fkin basic compared to previous tunes with the turbo. The HPTuners software is great, VCM logger is awesome, and effectively having a 2D load map is really simple. I really got to know how different it is using an OEM ecu as a base vs something like a Haltech.. the OEM base has tables for EVERYTHING and is much more complex with tables referencing other tables referencing other tables referencing other tables vs the Haltech. But it was fun to learn. I had set conservative timing, pretty rich on the fuel side of things as V8's can run leaner and more or less just drove it around and had lots of fun loading it up in hills to uh, run that new engine in, and hey the stock suspension didn't even feel that bad!.... though the 2 way was still a bit of a clunky mess. Was I paranoid about every single car being a police vehicle oh you bet I was. But in the end, I was satisfied enough that I went to effectively run it up on the dyno to confirm my tuning efforts weren't entirely wrong and the engine wasn't pinging itself to death and of course, to see how much power it made and whether more could be eked out of it. Here's the dyno sheet. The grey line was the first run and the orange line was after the tune, which really was just leaning it out a little (from 12.0 to 12.8) Adding timing did nothing, removing timing also did nothing, no knock detected, no nothing, actually. It was all pretty much... pretty much the same. The issue really is that there is a restriction with the intake and heads, you can see the manifold pressure dropping after about 5000RPM. This cam is supposed to be power between "3000-6600rpm+" according to the spec sheet. You can see that power is certainly not peaking at 6600rpm. @mlr be aware! In my case I was losing about 7kpa which is basically 7% power. A FAST 102MM intake and TB cost around $2000 to maybe address this. A set of heads costs $5000ish. Would I spend $7000 for .. ~30? rwkw? I mean I have in the past but I'm not going to........ yet.... But yes a little short of the fabled 300kw/400whp, which Americans seem to get no problem whatsoever with a cam this size in a cam-only build. The thing gets up and boogies fine from low RPM at least compared to a turbo car, and traction is limited down low anyway so it didn't really seem like an issue - the 4.11 rear gears help a lot. However to make myself sad, I have roughly interposed the LS graph over my old Borg Warner graph. (the red line was 9psi) So no it's not as fast, but there's something about it that is immensely... satisfying about it. In short, ----^ Next steps Suspension Head unit Aircon Engineering
  16. 6 points
    So the most impatient wait for any car part went on here, for a Varex muffler that came from Sparesbox honestly pretty cheap and pretty fast. I previously had 2x Magnaflow 3.5in mufflers, one as a mid and one as a rear. This was quiet enough for a Turbo setup but clearly not anymore. Because I am a 5 year old, I asked that we made the rear muffler detachable so I could swap the Varex out with the Magnaflow one for the track because.... 5 year old.... Also, the tip isn't stock. The guys there made a new one and welded it onto the varex to make it neat and sit flush with the rear bumper. I never asked them to do this, they just..... did it out of the kindness of their hearts. You may remember from page 1 (probably) that once upon a time my wiring looked like this: ….when setting up my Auto transmission ECU to work correctly, and use the wheel and shifters to manually change gears. The good news is I learned that the switches on both sides of the wheel are shared (one up, one down) and that they are momentary switches. These buttons remained unused for years, things like antilag etc could have been done other ways. Boost up/down I never used, cause I did boost by gear and had racelogic for traction control. I considered replacing the steering wheel for a manual one for awhile, but NO, finally there was a use again, and this occurred! video-1560494721.mp4 Jesus christ what a shit quality video, but it was revolutionary at the time! At this point in the story I had something resembling an actual car that I could drive, and was monumentally happy, and 90% worried something would break, even though it was left idling for quite some time, AFR's seemed fine, ECU was talking to Laptop and ODB2, nothing was leaking, but always concerned as to how good a quality map was actually loaded in there to begin with. So lets just say the drive home was part really awesome and part extremely stressful, paying wild attention to every gauge, as well as any light whatsoever as I was pretty confident I was driving the most illegal car in Victoria home... but combined with the unknown tune (seemed pretty decent actually) and stock suspension in the car it wasn't really able to be pushed, but I was glad to get it home in the end. Next step, run in the engine, tune it properly/learn how the fkin ECU works and start plans to get the suspension back in/swapped and start the path of talking to Engineers and hopefully finding out that all that work done wasn't just a complete waste of time and money... And because the above video is so shit, I recorded another one today because Coronavirus. One thing I have learned about the V8 is how loud the engine is, as opposed to the exhaust, but it still makes a pretty decent difference, and can see/feel the restriction it has as the AFR's go from 12.8 to about 10.8 under full load. The biggest difference was going to the Varex muffler itself, as far as Mufflers go, even when fully open it does a decent job of muffling compared to the Magnaflow one.
  17. 6 points
    I too have an excel spreadsheet, infact I put this V8 conversion all in it, including dates, what i bought, and even compared what I thought I'd spend to what I actually did spend. Then it all became a bit superflous because the parts I did spend on weren't really strictly related to "Conversion only" costs.. like say, the previous post. Also got a bit lucky in some aspects, like a pre-made ready to go refreshed cammed motor. Saved some $ there. ........Provided that engine actually started and was built correctly......... Moving on, more bushings! So now we had the rear of the car, and bushings done (many not pictured on the front arms), we decided to tackle plumbing up the engine side. We left the clutch out for now because it's just going to be easier taking engine in/out/in/out/in/out without a clutch to contend with. But the gearbox looks to have bolted up fine and took up space fine, useful for checking clearances to things. Here was our lovely engine bay,complete with old R34 ancillaries just.. hanging out. Gearbox sorta fitting okay! The commodore shift knob options are horrific, so we ended up cutting this and welding on a literal bolt to the end of it with the same pitch that Nissan shift knobs use, so I can re-use my OEM Nissan/Nismo Shift knob. The gates are tighter than a R33 Gearbox is (maybe the ripshifter does this) but it means that the AUTO housing I had around the shifter now fit better after the conversion than it did before. Another win! Please check page 1 for a description of my abomination of wiring. It was always a really sore point, but now that the motor was gone, we could remove what wasn't needed anymore. The way I thought about it was ..... My Haltech PS2000 ran the Engine, standalone. The LS1 Ecu runs the Engine, standalone. No other functions of the car did not work. AC worked, Power steering worked, dash worked, all electronics worked fine before the conversion. Logically then.. we could remove all of the things the PS2000 was wired to. Logically then.. we could run the LS1 in "Engine only" mode, and everything should be just fine, cause the rest of the car's wiring wasn't changed, because it was never in play to begin with. ... in the past my car has had up to 4-5 ECU's running various things. Anyway, all gone now. So we started pulling wires out. Initially we labelled them, and thought about them, and then eventually came to the conclusion above. "I'm sure it's fine" What's this for? I don't know. I knew then, I don't know now, but I took a photo of it for some reason. With literally all the engine wiring in the bin, we had an empty engine bay to start figuring stuff out in, and first cab off the ranks was the fuel system. The engine we got had some nice return EFI fuel rails on it which was great, because the LS1 uses a returnless system, and the rest of a skyline is .. not a returnless system. so thank f**k for that, basically, but we had to plumb it all in. We decided to cut these lines shorter, to angle them up against the firewall as much as possible. We didn't know how the f**k people ran a manifold/exhaust through here but we sure weren't going to be the guys that didn't make every effort to try and make someone's future life easier. People notice that shit! (also I almost melted my car to the ground due to wiring issues and heat in the past. This is fuel... and a manifold, what could go wrong?) Ah yes the first braided line, the one that started it all. The stock ECU can handle flex fuel. I had a flex fuel sensor. I had to mount it somewhere. So this: + This = This It seems I don't have too many photos of the fuel lines, they went through many, many revisions. With the engine in again, I had to think about cooling, as a clutch fan isn't feasible/doesn't exist. Luckily the LS is setup for thermos from the factory as it has them, and luckily, the AU falcon's thermos match up nearly perfectly with a R34 radiator, as well as pushing a LOT of air. "but isn't the LS huge?" A lot of people are still suprised by how small it is in the engine bay. .... so much room for activities! You can't see it in this photo, but you can actually fit your entire arm down behind the motor and grab the bellhousing too, so my e85 sensor was not in peril. Radiator and Thermos in! Sometimes things just fkin work out! sometimes.
  18. 6 points
    So at this point car looked like this: I had an engine, and gearbox, and clutch, all I needed was a loom, and that part was super easy. (says the internet) So things must be coming along great, fast, right? No. Would it be fast if you just wanted to put the engine in, wire up some kind of loom, not really care about much else, get a tailshaft and manifolds fabbed up and go do skids? Yes. Did I do this? No. I said a couple of posts ago that “While I’m here….” Was always going to be an element, and now is when it began to strike in full force, because while I also bought one shipment, there was actually 2, and there was scope shift. It went from “Hey lets just change the engine” To: Brain: Pssst… remember how this was all to remove annoying, worrysome things with this car? Me: ……. Yes? “Lets remove anything that caused annoyance in this car, EVER!” If I’d ever rolled my eyes, and dealt with it, or had to make an excuse for it, or “I’ll get around to it” it now became a prime target. There were quite a few of these things. Like in every car. Even yours. Don't you judge me! Given I needed the car to be engineered, I had a HICAS problem to deal with. I couldn’t use rose jointed arms/eliminator kit, and the stock ones had a lot of play in them, plus, they were f**kin shit, and already removed from my original subframe as they were quite shit. So were the arms i had replaced them with. So was my diff. All worked, pretty okay, and good enough for 99% of people, but sadly in this context, and the only context, I am the 1%. It was all bad. It was worse than bad, it was mildly annoying. So what’s a boy to do? Lets convert the subframe instead to a NON HICAS one. …..while it’s out, lets replace EVERY bush in it. …..while it’s out, lets weld in some subframe reinforcement plates, I mean if S15's crack them, surely a v8 will? (not that skylines seem to..) …..while it’s out, lets get my “1.5 way” Diff rebuilt, as this was clunking and being an asshole beyond what other diffs were doing. …..while it’s out, lets remove the shocks and put some stock suspension back in. It’ll be needed for the engineer anyway, and I wanted to rebuild my shocks because they were leaking, and slightly annoying. ……and did I need a re-valve? I went from 5-4 springs to 8-6 in the past..... I also changed the engine. So maybe I need a re-valve. In any case it was a question, and it could not be suffered to live. Pictured: Annoyance ^----ahhhh, refreshing! Also, while I’m buying bushes.. ….why not buy every bush? For the whole car? The front too? ….lets remove the front subframe while we’re at it, because.. there’s no engine there.. ……so maybe we should clean up the engine bay …maybe we should create fuel lines/adapt to the 34’s fuel system …. maybe we shouldn’t use rubber lines.. maybe we should have braided hose and fittings for fuel the whole way.. ….maybe we should get that e85 flex sensor all plumbed in.. before the car is going….instead of later …maybe we should have braided lines for the catch can too… while we're buying lines... …maybe we should have custom hard lines made for the coolant lines to the heater….. while we're doing lines.. …maybe we should relocate the oil cooler….... while we're buying lines.. ….maybe I should get around to cleaning up the engine bay… This was also the bulk of the cost, and a LARGE, LARGE, LARGE % of the head f**ks. We actually decided to do this in sections, i.e the rear of the car first, because it had 0 thinking to do, then we planned on doing the Engine bay part of things, then the middle/gearbox/clutch part last. The plan was to have everything done to the point where the only thing the car would need was wiring, and an exhaust fabricated up. Also, anyone want to buy my diff? This is where I spent $800 (receipts available!) to have my diff totally taken apart and rebuilt, and told nothing was wrong with my somewhat-clunkier-than-others 1.5 way diff, and that's just how they are. How they are is a 2 way diff, which was somehow missed in that $800 adventure. I'll leave it to your imagination how that diff drove with the new/refreshed/reinforced subframe.
  19. 6 points
    She's alive again! Still gotta do new wiring for gearbox but waiting for a few bits and pieces. Ive ordered a guard roller and picked up a heat gun so I can flare the guards a bit to fit 275s under the ass end. Also got a new DA and some cut and polish to give her a good clean up. Few scratches and swirl marks to get out of her. Should keep me going for a bit while we can't drive anywhere... Snapchat-2117516364.mp4
  20. 6 points
    HIlarious misfortunes aside, it's obviously not been all bad. Occasionally the car runs, and joyous occasions do actually occur! Uhhhh..... Greg... your car is blowing smoke at the track..... Catch can was full, problem went away.... and lets be honest, the IACV motor died (they die, pinning open) and I had a misfire problem meaning I had to run 9psi of boost maximum but look honestly at this stage of my car ownership I was at the track having fun and I put them firmly in to the WIN category! I put this photo in, my mental note thinking this was a time we all went out cruising the Great Ocean road and staying a few days in Warnambool..... only to be confronted by the fact I didn't bring the R34 with us on this trip because it was broken/off the road/conversion going on/something. Which my mind totally had no recollection of. This is probably pretty good allegory of my R34 ownership..Also MX5 Turbos are just awesome, no she doesn't let me mod it more than it currently is. I swear we did do the great alpine road with the Skyline, as I distinctly being unable to really spin the rears at the top of Hotham through the very high country noting it made suprisingly big difference, and following supercharged cars from 1979 with no cat generates one hell of a headache. Best track mod is definitely this though!! Yes, she is cooking sausages at the track day for everyone because "The canteen is no good, and boys don't eat they get up early, grab a coffee at 4am out the door and run on adrenaline and caffiene the whole day and that's no good!! People need food so they can stay focused and have fun on the track!!" My best drag run ever was an 11.9 with the old setup, which just left a ton of everything on the table, and that 11.9 was at like 103mph because an intercooler came off at about half track. And after every failed run (which was every run, due to intercooler pipes) a certain someone was under the car fixing it, putting hose clamps back together and generally providing relentless encouragement while I yarned on chatting to other random people at heatcote. I think most people would have happily struggled to get into the 11's but had the pitlane support than run a 10 and be there on their own, so as many things that have gone wrong, I know some really good people to make it all worth it. After all, all car stories are really just people stories. In any case the car has gone from: This: To this: (this made 430kw through an auto in this setup!) To.... this: To... this!: Actual cert number and VASS number removed for obbious reasons but ye. At some point I will write up (with pictures) the very long process in the above!
  21. 6 points
    I had the honor of doing a photoshoot with a friend and his Millennium Jade R34 GTR V-SpecII NUR, enjoy! And a cheeky photo with my GTT
  22. 6 points
    I suffer from depression. I am pretty apprehensive just putting it out there. But it feels like it's important for me to talk about this issue. To see that other people may be going through or have experienced the same thing, and mostly just to get this out of my head out into the open. From what I can tell, I've gone downhill mentally for the last 5 years and have previously managed to get myself out of dark places, until very recently, when several factors combined to really stop me in my tracks. I should point out that I have never wanted to harm myself or to kill myself, not once did these seem like viable options for me. Rather, i suffered from lethargy and apathy. I really, really struggled to get out of bed, to engage with my children properly (I always looked after their well being, every single shred of my motivation was used to further my career and to try to keep going. Having depression doesn't mean you always try to throw yourself off a bridge every chance or jump in front of traffic. It has other forms of depleting you and making life feel like one big chore. I have felt for a very long time that life was just one very hard slog, almost like moving through knee deep water. It just seemed too hard to be possible to be happy. I really struggled to motivate myself to do anything on the weekends and always took shortcuts where I shouldn't have (dumping kids in front of TV for example). For me I felt frustrated and angry and just annoyed generally with the state of my immediate world and that of the world in a broad context. I found myself getting angry at things I can't control and annoyed that no one else cared for it either. I am currently on a very low level dose of anti-depressant and am engaging a physiologist for assistance. These have teamed to help me to understand that the way I think and the severity of my own personal monologue (or voice in my head) is not normal and is rather destructive. While i try very hard to nurture and to assist other people who are learning or need assistance, I would be ruthless on my own efforts at life and where i would tell a colleague or child to keep trying and watch their progress as they improve, if I made the same errors I would be brutal in my own mind, telling myself I was not worth the time and bother that I was putting into the activity. I guess I wanted to put this out there, to let other people know that even though everything looks perfect in my life on paper, sometimes it isn't that easy. If anyone else suffers through these types of things, please feel free to comment here, tell us your story and try to help change attitudes that depression is somehow your failing and you are at fault. Sometimes things just happen and we don't deal with them in the best of ways. Of course, if you prefer, you can DM me here (i'm not a counselor or anything, I work in IT, but I can listen and don't judge) sometimes people just need a friendly ear.
  23. 6 points
    yes but who would be irresponsible enough to do that.
  24. 6 points
  25. 6 points
    yeah mate Hypergear do the best hiflow out there which is a great first upgrade and will get you real choice power bro. Hey I just remembered, I will have one for sale in about 4 weeks once my new turbo arrives. You will prob need to upgrade the coilpacks too though if you haven't already but don't worry I have a set of series 2 splitfires for sale too. You will also need something to raise the boost pressure; damn that's right, I also have a Mamba adjustable wastegate actuator to go with the turbo. Wow your lucky day hey
  26. 6 points
    Hi everyone ! Let me introduce you my R33 - I bought it last year with one single goal for it : turn it into a track oriented Skyline to run on the Nordschleife. I have a passion for this race track, and I've been lucky enough to be born and to spend my life at approx. 1 hour and half from this petrolhead paradise. As if that wasn't enough, Luxembourg is a fascinating country when you can register 100% road legal cars that have loads of mods, big single turbo exhaust and so on. The R33 GTS-T was an obvious choice for me - RWD, "light", still one of my favourite cars in the world... and also, not as rare and expensive as a GT-R, should a disastrous relationship happen between the car and the Nürburgring security rails... It's not that I'm planning to crash it, it's just that when you enter the Green Hell, you must keep in mind disasters CAN happen, for various reasons. So much stories to be told about this... but that's part of the thrill, ain't it ? So I bought this car : Nice mods, the only thing it's missing is a proper mapping. It's running on OEM ECU with original mapping, turbo only blows @0,3 bar. I'm about to finish the registration process - last appointment is on 27/06/2019 and hopefully that day I'll be able to drive it. I have to do various things to get the registration certificate - replace some parts by other parts that can be registrated more easily (wheels, suspensions, ...), get a certificate for each and every mod on the car from a specialized organization, make everything compliant etc... Had to pass a dyno test that I did yesterday : VIDEO For a low boost setup RB25, I'm pretty happy with the result ! 287 hp / 330 Nm After all that paperwork is done, I'll bring it to the Nordschleife where she'll perform her first laps. At the end of the season, I'll begin thinking about upgrades - starting with a standalone ECU + proper mapping. Thanks a lot to everyone who red this post until the end - it'll be a pleasure to share the evolution of this project with you all, and I really hope you will appreciate it ! I wish you all a nice day, Alex
  27. 6 points
    Got result. Look like the turbo like higher boost. Now we got 662awhp at 24psi 114krpm 726awhp at 26psi 118krpm. Look like still a lot more rooms but the power already pass my clutch limit. So I decide stop at around 25-26psi. 2 more psi made 60awhp. Which make me believe it like higher boost. And for a reference: my old setup gtx3582 g2 made 690awhp on 31psi. (Maxing out)
  28. 6 points
    I used to come into here to find what people had tried and what was needed to run to get 'x' power so might help some looking to push rb25 and a real world example Comparison between old GTX3076 0.82 with spitfires and std CAS vs GTX3582 Gen ll 0.82 with Audi R8 coils and new CAS This is for circuit car - anything else I think the (new or old) GTX 3076 is pretty solid for 450 to high 500hp's Done on a roller : Old GTX 3076 0.82 setup on 24.5 psi - 550hp and 620nm - was awesome overall - good response - noses over at 7K New GTX3582 gen ll 0.82 on 23 psi - 570hp on 26 psi 663.5hp and 700nm - havent driven it yet but woke up with psi and wanted to keep making powas Relevant things: Rb25 built Poncams Audi R8 coils New CAS 6 Boost Bosch 1600 cc Injectiors Plasmaman plenum Koyo Rad PWR 500 x 300 intercooler 2" piping 3" straight through exh 45 Ext gate to screamer GTX3582 0.82 Gen ll PPG 5 speed dog box 4.11 diff ratio
  29. 6 points
  30. 6 points
    A few build pictures from the last year and a half. Adam Lz was over from the USA and poped into CRD. Perfect timing as the car was doing it's run in on the Dyno. Then one of my best mates decided he looked better in a picture than Adam Lz... I have never been so traumatized over a picture 😂😂😂😂😂 The car ended up arriving like this. 17inch Koya Racing rims with Mickey Thompson Et street tyres I finally fitted my 19x10.5 Works Emotion Dr9 rims with 275/30r19 street tyres. I think I'm starting to fall back in love with this Nugget.
  31. 6 points
    When I first went to Oz for WTAC a few years ago I arranged to catch up with @Mick_o and @Piggaz for BBQ and rums and me and Mick were sorting out plans for the evening via PM on SAU. I could get 3 bottles of spirits in duty free so took an order for them for the evening shenanigans, and was somewhat bemused to be asked for a bottle of "Wild Spincter of the universe". I double checked he wasn't just joking around and he repeated "Wild sphincter of the universe, Rare breed. definitely." So yeah, there was a real awkward conversation with the customer service at Sydney duty free until it suddenly dawned on me wtf was going on. Bloody Australians haha
  32. 6 points
    Had it back on the dyno on Monday to check the tune as someone at a repair shop had f**ked around with it without permission. Played with the e boost controller a bit and rolled out 628rwhp with wheel spin. Can't complain about that on pump98 and just over 1.5 bar boost. 20190708_123500.mp4
  33. 6 points
    Hey Liz! Funny you should ask, took these in Melbourne on the weekend. The shell is now completely rust free and modified. There is still some panel work and prep to be done before it's ready for paint. I'll have the remainder of the work done here in Melbourne now.
  34. 6 points
    I haven't been on the forum much in a long time - but look what turned up in the post today... courtesy Geoff Raicer (thanks again mate). Just came by to see what the latest results were.. I'll be doing a direct one to one comparison of this vs my current 8374 when the time comes.
  35. 6 points
    An update on my N14 also: Engine is in!! Fitted the gearbox up too, just a mock up at this stage, I haven't fitted flywheel and clutch yet: Gearbox went it pretty well, although the Elec P/S bracket will need a slight trim on the corner. needs approx 5mm off it to ensure I don't have to remove the bracket when fitting/removing the gearbox Not bad, considering it was a guesstimate! The clearance to the DBW T/B isn't fantastic, although using solid poly engine mounts all round, the engine shouldn't move around a whole lot. Approx 20 - 25mm clearance. If I have fouling issue's I'll make up an adapter plate to move the TB around at a slight angle.
  36. 6 points
    Since we are being philosophical in here, I just want to say that I think there is value in a place where Skyline focused but not single pointed people can discuss cars, in a moderated environment with some minimum level of respect. There are other places around if you want something else, either less moderated, more generic, or more specific. Thanks for keeping the place alive for so many years Christian, with recent events I've been thinking a lot about the old days, friends we've made and lost through here and how SAU has made it in one form or another through so much change in the world. 17 years now.
  37. 6 points
    Yep. And you should see how much money I make!
  38. 6 points
    I think i covered this earlier in a different thread but I'll have another go. As someone who wasn't here ten or fifteen years ago I assume that the landscape was slightly different. I imagine that 10 years ago an owner here would daily or have only the one car that was a Skyline. I would be surprised if it were the same now. In those ten years my own personal experience of trying to daily a modified car by keeping it running, trying to dodge cops for fear of canaries and just plain effort that is required to drive a loud obnoxious car has proven that running a strictly daily car and modifying a weekend car is king. Having a daily frees you up to have a nice car and sweet/fast/crazy/low project car that's fun on the weekends. It stops people from project car burnout or at least delays it. In fifteen years the import scene has changed dramatically, as has the public opinion of "dangerous driving styles". I'm sure most people knew idiot drivers back then, but now in the age of phones with HD video and imaging, ACA beat ups and dashcams, driving like a dick on the road costs dearly. You can't do it like you used to. We need to be more organised and above board when we go out for cruises or track thrashes. So how is this relevant? It's relevant because we all want to be included. We all want to have fun without ruining it for everyone else. If you've never driven a true exotic car try it. Having 500+ hp at the wheels is amazing when it can be so comfortable and compliant at everything else. Sure my GTR will destroy all on a drag strip. But I'd be lying if i said it were comfortable, easy to drive and I didn't stall it five times everytime I took it out. We all have our own Skyline goals, but there's only so many 10s of thousands I'm going to throw in before a nice Aston, Porsche or Ferrari starts to look tempting for the same price I've dumped into my car. At some point I'm going to move on from Skylines (probably) and I'd like to stay here. We should always be striving to be inclusive when people are respectful and they meet the same principles we hold ourselves to. There's enough hate and bs in the world already. Car people need to stop hating on other car people already. End rant... [emoji106]
  39. 6 points
  40. 5 points
    I hate the look when the car burns down. But that's just me.
  41. 5 points
    Put another coat over the shell and rubbed it back again, the shell is now rapped up and need to start on the doors. Also got the motor back from JPC and started fitting the manifold, sump etc. The motor has, CP pistions 9.0:1, Spool I beam rods, Spool oil pump gears in N1 housing, APR head studs and main studs, Tomei cam gears, Nitto head gasket, Ross balancer. The head has only had new valve spring, will be running the standard cams as I need to pass a full IMR240 emissions test. Also had to finish off making the oil pick up.
  42. 5 points
    Why dude? You have a gearbox that is lucky to survive with the stock turbo bolted onto it. f**k the 6 speed in your car makes a WRX gearbox look strong! You have a stock motor that will be able to be turned up to what 270kw max? Throw a single 525 in the tank and put your money to better use dude. You won't even need E85 for that kinda power with the 7670. My car was at the power/torque limit of the motor at E15 dude so theres no way you are gunna be near those numbers lol. Dexter said you are out of motor that's it. You do know Scott WILL NOT push the limit of a stock motor. Take it from me i know! He will give you whatever he feels is safe and that's it. I really struggle to see your logic in these $4-5k Don Mega fuel setups for a million kw when you literally need a $250 single in tank pump to start enjoying this car? Put your money towards a gearbox, a diff and at least some Evo calipers to help this thing put the power down and stop... I can assure you it won't make it off the dyno with that 6 speed mate & you know it. The fuel system money is literally your gearbox & diff almost paid for.. Then theres the other bills you dont see like the tow truck back to Rigoli & the dyno time you will pay for with an incomplete tune. THEN pay for another tow back and the tune to be finished. Give the tuner a car setup properly so it goes on the dyno and gets driven home not 1 that that leaves on a tow truck for repairs cos it's broken! It's a beautiful car with all the cream dude why hold it back with shitty stock parts for junk that you simply DO NOT NEED 🤦‍♂️
  43. 5 points
    I'm working away at the moment and bored, so I have time to mention the current build details completed as of 1st of Feb. 2020. OCTOBER 1989 TH1 NISSAN BNR32 SKYLINE GT-R – BNR32-002605 ENGINE - SHORT · Nitto 2800cc full stroker kit (Fully balanced to 10000rpm) -Nitto billet steel full counter balance 77.7mm crankshaft -Nitto billet steel 121.5mm I-beam conrods w/ARP 2000 rod bolts -JE forged aluminium 87.0mm pistons - custom 21mm pin height with thin rings (top ring 1.0mm, 2nd ring 1.2mm). -Assembled and balanced further by Croydon Racing (CRD) · ACL race main + conrod bearings - STD clearance · Nitto 120psi competition oil pump w/ billet backing plate/gears modified by CRD · New factory Nissan 05U RB26 block prepped by CRD · Nitto drag spec triple layer metal head gasket 1.2mm · Nitto 1.1mm head to block oil restrictor · Rear turbo oil drain block off plate · ARP 2000 main studs · ARP custom age 625+ head studs · Ross Tuffbond metal jacket 2 piece billet alloy 4.1kg harmonic balancer with 12 tooth crank trigger disc · R32 GTR standard 8 blade Nissan water pump · Nismo 62 deg. thermostat · Ross heat exchanger delete plate · Gates racing nylon timing belt · Lewis engines custom 8 litre race sump,internal swing baffles ENGINE – HEAD AND TURBO · Modified head porting from Japan · New standard valve guides and 05U valves · Apexi GT step 2 - 264/264deg.10.6mm high lift camshafts · 2 x Apexi adjustable camshaft gears · Tomei high tensile steel cam stud kit · Supertech dual valve springs with titanium retainers · Supertech viton valve stem seals · Precision Gen2 ball bearing, CEA PT6466 1.00 a/r T4 twin scroll to V-band turbo · Turbosmart 44 micron turbo oil supply filter · Mines rocker cover breather baffle kit · Simota pod style air filter · Trust twin scroll T4, single gate turbo manifold · Trust/Greddy 47mm type R external wastegate with purple 1.5bar spring · 2 x Turbosmart dual port blow off valves EXHAUST · Modified HKS 90mm stainless front / dump pipe with Precision 90mm V band and clamp · 2 x HKS 75mm flat stainless parallel cat converters · 50mm wastegate outlet plumbed into system Custom Start racing Jap 100mm mild steel cat back system ENGINE-OTHER · OEM crank angle sensor · Latest revision Hitachi RB starter motor · Standard 30 year old 80A alternator (needs upgrading stat !) · Wiring specialties complete new engine harness · Wiring specialties smart coil harness · Wiring specialties knock sensor harness · Wiring specialties EV1 to EV1 injector extension pigtails · R35 VR38 genuine Nissan coilpacks ignition system · Godzilla motorsport billet alloy coilpack bracket · NGK Iridium R5686 racing series 8 spark plugs – 0.7mm gap · Cusco alloy radiator air guide · UAS top mount oil/air separator kit w/ secondary Auto staff catch can w/ K+N breather filter – PCV valve deleted · Franklin engineering head drain kit with -10AN braided line · HKS cast alloy intercooler hard piping kit · Trust drag tube and fin intercooler - 620 x 300 x 102mm · Trust/Grex oil cooler kit (w/ filter relocation and 70 degree thermostat) 299 x 186 x 50mm - 13 row · Nismo oil filter · Tomei metal throttle body / exhaust / intake manifold gaskets · Trust clear timing gear cover · Samco sport full silicone heater hose kit - blue · Samco sport 3 ply silicone radiator hose kit - blue · PWR 42mm full aluminium radiator · R134A aircon conversion · Reimax throttle body seals (refresh and enhancement set) ENGINE MANAGEMENT · Haltech ELITE 2500 engine management · Haltech GTR elite ECU plug and play harness · Haltech WB1 wideband kit with Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor · Haltech flex fuel / temp sensor · Haltech 4 bar MAP sensor · Haltech 150psi fuel pressure sensor · Haltech 3 port MAC valve for boost control · Hella M12 fast response air temp sensor 6PT 009 109 041 · Bosch 10bar / 140deg oil pressure and temp sensor FUEL SYSTEM · 100% constant fuel pump flow modification · 6 x Bosch EV14 1550cc @ 3bar injectors. Flow matched by Golebys. KMS 10.5mm full length adaptors. · NZ EFI injector ballast delete · SX adjustable fuel pressure regulator · Aeroflow 38mm 150 psi fuel pressure gauge on regulator · Trust twin entry fuel rail – 10.5mm. · Twin Speedflow 200 series teflon –8AN braided line pump to rail feeds. Single -8AN return line. · Too many bloody -8AN Speedflow 200 series fittings everywhere · Gates submersible 100psi hose in-tank fuel lines · 1 x AEM 400lph 50-1009 E85 fuel pump in-tank · 2 x Bosch motorsport 044 fuel pumps external to fuel rail · 2 x Speedflow 044 check valves (M12 to -8AN) · Speedflow 602 large 65 micron fuel filter supply to surge · UAS 4L aluminium surge tank w/ Perspex enclosure in boot DRIVELINE · PAR Engineering 1st - 4th straight cut dog box with OS giken centre plate, PAR upgraded billet shifter barrel interlock, PAR upgraded billet selector forks, PAR billet 28.5mm GM 26t spline input shaft, standard synchro/helical 5th and reverse. Gearset prepared by Sam at Neat Gearboxes in Adelaide. (Case bead blasted, new bearings, crack tested, shot peened and isotropic super finish) · Transfer case fully rebuilt and modified to 10 plate clutch · Midori Seibi digital high performance G sensor - RED · Nissan 350Z cast alloy solid push clutch fork upgrade · KMS Chromoly clutch fork pivot ball · Nismo 25% reduction quick shift kit · GKtech shift springs - hard · ATS spec 1 push carbon triple plate clutch. 1350kg pressure plate, optioned carbon treated floating discs, full carbon friction plates, 26t centre hub, chromoly 6.5kg flywheel · Nissan 3/4” push clutch slave cylinder - standard · Nismo transmission mount · Superpro polyurethane transmission crossmember bushes · APP stainless braided teflon coated full clutch line to slave · Quaife helical front limited slip differential · Quaife helical rear limited slip differential · Rear 31t spline half shaft upgrade (stock 30t) · Trust cast aluminium extended rear diff housing BRAKES AND SUSPENSION · Front – Stock R32 GTR 4 piston w/ Intima SR pads · Front – DBA4000 slotted and ventilated rotors · Rear - Standard R32 GTR twin piston w/ Intima SR pads · Rear – DBA4000 ventilated rotors · Standard Front and rear adjustable strut braces · Whiteline Urethane front upper control arm bushes · Whiteline Urethane rear sub frame cradle bushes · Whiteline Urethane rear lower shock mount bushes · Whiteline Urethane rear diff mount bushes · Whiteline 22mm adjustable front sway /anti-roll bar · Whiteline 24mm adjustable rear sway /anti-roll bar · Whiteline front + rear swaybar links with Urethane bushes · Whiteline adjustable front castor tension rods · Whiteline adjustable rear upper control arms – KCA118 · Whiteline adjustable rear upper radius arms – KCA117 · Tein Mono Flex full height and 16 way damper adjustable suspension - 7kg front, 7kg rear spring rates WHEELS AND TYRES Street · Rays engineering NISMO GT1 Volk racing - 18 x 10 +12 · Yokohama ADVAN Neova AD08R 265/35R18 · Rays engineering centre caps · Rays engineering wheel nuts Drag · R33 GT-R 17” x 9” alloy wheels - Mickey Thomson E/T Street II - 275/40R17 INTERIOR · Cusco Safety 21 6-point roll cage · 2 x Bride Brix 1 reclinable racing front bucket seats · 2 x Bride S13/S14 type MO super low seat rails · Genuine Nissan R32 GTR Skyline mats · Genuine Nismo leather gearshift knob · Blitz 1-10 min. turbo timer · Mongoose M80 immobiliser · Sony 4 x 50w CD/MP3 head unit · Nismo 260km/h speedometer gauge · Haltech Can bus 52mm GaugeArt gauge · 60mm exhaust temp gauge · Momo sports steering wheel EXTERIOR · Genuine Nismo full ABS plastic bodykit · N1 headlights with H1 and H3C globes · ANDRA approved external battery isolator · Attain carbon fibre rear bumper exhaust guard · Kansai services racing front tow mount OILS AND FLUIDS · Engine oil – Castrol Edge 10w-60 · Coolant – Castrol Radicool · Power steering – Castrol power steer fluid · ATTESA hydraulics – Castrol ATF Dex III · Transmission – Motul Gear competition 75w-140 · Transfer case – Castrol Transmax Z · Front diff – Motul Gear competition 75w-140 · Rear diff – Motul Gear competition 75w-140 · Brake fluid – Castrol React Performance Dot 4 I think that's about it from what I can remember right now 😴
  44. 5 points
    Here's a dyno overlay of a GTX3076R Gen2 with .83a/r hotside overlayed with a G30-770 with .83a/r hot side on petrol at the same boost level. This is on a stock RB25, so more a comparison of how it goes psi for psi within the GTX3076R's limit versus outright potential - which is worth noting that the G30-770 with .83a/r hotside is on paper very similar flow wise on both hot and cold side to an EFR8374 with 1.05a/r hotside:
  45. 5 points
    DATE: 13th July 2019 TIME: 3pm to 8:30pm WHERE: Shannons Auctions. 65 Reserve Road Artarmon, NSW, 2064 More Info can be found on the SAUNSW Facebook page. Link: https://www.facebook.com/events/587058158370046/ In 1989 the first R32 GTR hit the streets. In 1991 and 1992 it dominated Bathurst, earning itself the name "Godzilla". Three decades later, and the R32 is still one of the most notorious, menacing, and iconic cars in history - 2019 marks the 30th Anniversary of the R32 GTR! Skylines Australia NSW are pleased to announce, in conjunction with our naming sponsors, Shannons Insurance, that we will be hosting a 30th Anniversary event, which we welcome you all to join! Our event will be held at Shannons Insurance Artarmon branch, on Saturday 13th July.We would like to invite all R32 GTR owners to bring their pride and joy down for a Show and Shine! But, just because it's the R32 GTR's birthday, doesn't mean we are leaving the R33 and R34 GTR's out - you're all invited too!So bring out your street, track or drag weapons and help us celebrate!For all entrants of the Show and Shine, entry will be $10, but this will put you in the draw to grab yourself one of the many trophies that are waiting to be claimed! Is your ride worthy enough to earn you some bragging rights? To anyone wanting to spectate, we haven't forgotten about you. There will plenty to see and do between the food trucks, music, Bathurst footage of the R32 GTR dominating the track, as well as a few special guest cars and a heritage display! The best part is that spectating is FREE! There's even talk of a few goodies being up for grabs?
  46. 5 points
    Did one ages before but on shitty tyres, I fear trying in such a small space with semis might propel the car into the Tiguan lol
  47. 5 points
    He just wanted an American to confirm, doesn't trust us Aussies, just the same way we don't trust their BS dyno readings
  48. 5 points
    That's pretty much how I look at it. Plenty of people prefer the lack of moderation, quick responses and convenience of facebook. SAU is deliberately different, and I think the quality of the content is better as a result.
  49. 5 points
    Compressor map for the G35-1050...
  50. 5 points
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