Aazzy

I'm thinking I'll run the motor in with the -7's (since they are already bolted up), make sure the motor is all good and then try the big single route, once I know everything is holding together. I've been reading up a bit since I posted this and a decent single does seem like the way to go. I need to spend a bit of time on suspension also before I get any faster.

I had a feeling you were going to say that about the -7's. It was a cock up to begin with, a customer of ours runs a workshop that specialises in turbos, I wanted -5's but somewhere along the line -7's were sent instead. I got them for a pretty good price so I didn't want to rock the boat. I was after an upgrade from the hks 2530 turbos which i thought were stuffed because they started pumping out white smoke one day at the track, but as it turns out, the new turbos did the same thing. it was an oil drain issue and the bloke that checked them out just assumed the turbos blew. He also told me they were shit and not worth fixing. Hence the new -7's. I guess I could sell the hks turbos and the -7's then get something a bit bigger. Any recommendations?

It's got hks dump pipes, hks front pipe, no cat, 3 inch, cannon on the back just for looks.

I run an rb26 in a s13.5 silvia and the last time it was on the dyno, struggled to crack 300rwkw. I was aiming for 350kw plus. I'm not sure what's got to change to get there. It has a set of new -7's at the moment, but I have some hks 2530's also. Hks 264 cams, hks 800cc injectors, hks rail, forged Pistons, rising rate pressure reg, nitto oil pump, nitto collar, crank was ground and balanced etc... microtech LT12s, Ross balancer. Tuner says everything is sweet but I guess I just expected more. Only thing I'm unsure of is the fuel pump. can I just hook up an 044 and use whatever's in the tank as a feed pump? or is there a few more mods that need to be done?

Thanks for the reply, I got onto Ross balancers today and they had no worries with the rb25 balancer on the 26. Going to go for their gold series as it's the best they make for race application. Hopefully the final piece of the puzzle. What was a routine freshen up turned into an 8 week adventure due to 1 incompetent pleb who I really want to name but I am still trying to get my $1000 back. So for the moment the workshop will remain nameless. But a quick search on this forum confirms I'm not the only one.

Hi, hoping someone can help me. I'm having some trouble with the harmonic damper on my rb26, the motor is in an unmodified s13 chassis so it is a reasonably tight squeeze. I am running a rb25 ps pump and rb25 ps bracket, so the normal GTR harmonic dampers will not line up (10mm too long). The rb25 (r33) damper is a perfect fit, but as I haven't run a 26 with a 25 damper before I am a little worried, theoretically it is only a damper and the crank is internally balanced so it should work fine. Has anyone had to do this before? The car is solely used for track so it sees big revs consistently. If I run the gtr balancer, pump and bracket it will Run extremely close to the radiator. (not ideal). I have tried to sort this out with a very reputable workshop in Sydney but Ive found Ive been ripped a new one for parts, the particular employee couldnt even keep up with his own lies and now I am $1000 out of pocket and no harmonic damper. As you can imagine after being stung badly by a company that is supposedly the rb gurus in Sydney, I find myself questioning any info I've been given. And what's probably an easy fix has me sweating bullets. Any info on this would be greatly appreciated.

Had the exact issue with my 33. Hicas computer faulty. Picked up a second hand one for $50. I was able to swap it with a friends 33 just to be certain before I replaced it.

Off topic here but why is it that when I type G.O.D. As one word it comes out as rajab?

Found that the air temp sensor was cutting ignition as the air was too hot. Oil temp wasn't my issue at all. It doesnt have a gauge for plenum air temp. (didn't think i really needed it) it may have just been that it was a hot day and was right up the back of an elfin that weighed about 650kgs, when I'm still pushing 1250kgs around. Those things are so god dam quick out of the corners.

Took the s13 out on the weekend, it's running a 285rwkw rb26dett, and I'm finding that engine oil temp is getting upwards of 120 to 130 degrees when I really start pushing the limits. It does have a reasonable size cooler. And at the moment i have ulx 110 in there. I'm curious to know what everyone else's temps are, It just seems a little too hot. The front bar will be coming off anyway as the next meet Won't be till late January, and I'm looking at running a whole heap of air flutes/ducting anywhere I can fit it.

Such a commonly overlooked problem, everyone dives into ecu problems and all sorts of weird issues when a car plays up. I think I've only ever had to replace 2 or 3 ecu's in about 10 years as a mechanic.

They have issues with the coolant temp sensor. (The one to the ecu). When they short out they over fuel the car, some will only play up when hot, some all the time and some only when cold. I've had the rb26 do it and a few rb25's that I've been called out to as well. The wires can short out at the sensor end. or it may just be a faulty sensor. A scan tool should be able to give you an accurate temp reading, if it reads 100 odd degrees and your car is cold then you know you have issues with it.

Not going in the 33 anymore, will trial it in the silvia if it will fit. I don't think I'm ready for all this shiney chrome, I just plasti dipped everything matte black a few weeks ago.

Haha! I figured it was a little odd. I laid it in the car to see how it fitted and it was terrible anyway. This one seems to be hollow, so i don't think it would take any body flex even if there was any in that area.

I've got my hands on a "centre brace bar" for an r33. I may have been living under a rock, but I'm not too familiar with it, or more to the point, I'm not sure if its even going to do anything... It looks like it bolts behind the front seats inside the car and runs along the floor, with an adjustable section in the middle like a strut brace under bonnet. I'll take a photo of it when I get home but I'm a little curious whether it's worth me pulling up carpet and then cutting holes in it to fit. Or whether it's just going to be one of things you show your mates and let them tell you how shines it is.

Threw in some project mu type ns in the r33 on the weekend. Must admit they have a good cold bite, haven't had a chance to push them through the hills yet but it's looking pretty positive so far. Little squeak at low speeds when pulling up lightly but that's expected from a performance pad I guess... It ain't no Prius.

Using lightweight at the moment in both track car and street car. Have done 4 track days with rebuilt box and redline oil, no gearbox worries what so ever. Street car did pump out about 100ml from breather after an aggressive hills run, but I put that down to filling gearbox up with only the front lifted off the ground when filling. (slight angle may have overfilled).

Our track car was like that, had a twin plate in it at the time but was notchy and shitty as when cold then got better when hot. Dropped out the twin plate and put in a heavy single plate with a rebuilt box and its smooth as silk. My 33 street car (which before the track car got its overhaul felt smooth as) now feels like a piece of snot in comparison. New syncros make a hell of a difference. Both run redline oil.

A faulty coolant temp sensor can cause it to run rich. Which will make it hard to start. See if you can get a live data reader onto it and check your sensor values.

Booked my old wh statesman in for an LS1 Edit, turns out it had already had it done. Then they tweaked it from 205rwkw to 199.1 rwkw. Lesson learnt, if it ain't broke don't fix it.

Sounds like a fuel pump, easy way to check is get a test light and make sure your getting power to it first. Or if your really lazy get a friend to turn the key to the 'on position' while you have your head in the boot, listening for a slight hum from the pump. As it should prime the fuel rail before start up. If no hum more than likely it will be the fuel pump. Bosch do a universal pump that fits in the housing perfectly, otherwise Walbro do a few reasonably priced units for standard replacement. Just call lube mobile out and get them to do it in your driveway. They did mine, only took the guy bout an hour to diagnose, get parts and fit it!

Few photos of the new paint after a decent clean then wax.

Hey everyone, I need to find a store preferably in SA that deals with defi gauges, specifically a place that will sell new spares, as I need a few looms to connect them up.

Mines exactly the same, was looking for a clean crisp white but ended up with a slightly bluey purple. It looks like the only way to change it would be to change the face of the gauges I guess. My originals also had the blue caps on them.

Why not try a mobile mechanic, that way your car doesn't leave your sight and you can sit back with a coffee and watch. Obviously they can't do any dyno tuning but for general maintenance, it's the way to go.