MANWHORE

Hey tom I'm gonna go out on a limb here, even though you said you don't want 2nd hand experience. I was thinking about buying a 31 myself to muck around in and not be worried about denting it. I asked fatz numerous questions, s13 suspensions fit. I have been playing around with an aussie r31 too that my friend isn't using. Atm, it handles like shit because the suspensions are shot. I will be trying to fit a set of stock s13 suspensions when I can find a set. Will let you know how it goes. hopefully it should be quite an improvement over the dead ones. I'm trying to do this on a tight budget though and you migh be looking for something a lot better. reason for edit: my drunken spelling.

So say if I had an oil budget of 50-60, what would be the best I could buy? Is ester a lot better than non ester? What do you think of elf excellium 5 w 40? Does it contain much ester? and is it made of good oil? I can buy it for $45. Thanks heaps for your help. I don't understand the informaiton that the sites say about their oils.

motul 8100 5 w 40 costs me $52. delvac is about 30-15. So is the delvac 1 act5ually better than the 8100(non ester)? So it's cheaper and better? I'm a bit weary about using the delvac oil. U sure it's ok? I was reading the mobil site and it said it was for diesals. Cheers mate.

700 is cheap. it's not a big deal to replace plates, pressure plate etc. e.g. go to otomoto - you'll have to google the addrress. full rebuild including everythning for an OSG twin is about 1.2k. those things cost about 3k new. so even if the whole thing is totally shagged, you're getting a brand new one for 2k. not bad. chances are its not totally dead like a door knob and you'll still get good use out of it. even if the plates have 50% left, it'll last a while. those things are pretty strong unless you're burnout boy and drop the clutch everyday.

You can change boost without a 'boost controller'. If you have a look at the stock system, there is a bleeder in the wastegate line. You just change the size of the restrictor by soldering/drilling it out.

also, if you calculate it using the applicable formulas, the resistance is actually negligable. The cable is a thick mofo so it has a low resistance. Also, the length isn't that long.

I measured the drop in voltage from the alternator and also at the back. I also did it when the car was off. The voltage drop was negligible. We're talking like 0.2V. you obviously have an electrical problem like I said above. moving the batt won't fix it. Could be a dead batt - just coz it's 18 months old doens't mean it's still good. might be too small. could be bad ground - clean them and make sure they're tight. could be dead alternator. I've left my car for 1 month and it still started.

You clearly have something wrong with your electrical system. Fix that rather than attmepting a bandaid, which probably won't fix it anyway. If you have a look at the cable, it is a big mofo. Voltage drop is very minimal. You say that boot is already small. What, do you plan on putting something up on the top battery shelf? hmmm, like maybe a pad of paper? or a book? maybe a pair of undies? coz you won't fit much up there

agreed - sII wing is the shiznit. Cheap, looks really good compared to that poor attempt of a spoiler that sI's have.

Several things mate. As we always say it's not how many ks the car has done. Ks is only one indicator of quality/condition. A car that has done 100000ks (easy driving) will probably be in better condition than a car that has done 30000ks (thrashed daily at the track). If the engine is 'real nice' as you say, then you have a good car. Simple as that. The 11k one that you were looking at may well ahve done less ks or whatever, but as they say, you get what you pay for. if that engine blows, it would easily push it over 13k. probably push it over 15k if you don't know how to change engines yourself. Most 32s being pretty long in the tooth are in terrible condition. NB: I did not say all of them, so don't flame me. If you bought a 15 year old car from autsralia, what would you be getting? probably an r31 family sedan, vl/vn commo etc or some other equivalent shitbox. So, if it's in good condition, what i'm saying, is if the car is good. be happy, instead of worrying about how many ks it should have or does ahve. Hope everything works out for ya champ.

Do you wanna sell them mate?

I'm sure that the car would be really good for drift. The only isssue I have is it doesn't have an engine. Also, how am I gonna get rego in that thing. It's not really legal either, like if I get caught testing tyres out on the road, i'm more likely to get pinned than in a stock looking 31. I don't have the knowledge, skill, space, tools time etc to put a new engine in. I'm at uni, still living with my parents. Cheers fellars

88, thanks for the offer mate, but a cage is a bit too hardcore for me. I was sorta looking for somethign that the cops won't hassle me about. e.g. after welding the diff, I might need to test it (on private roads) etc. Is it possible to weld a diff if it isn't an lsd?

Hahaha, BB mate, I beleive I remember you joining the 31 club last year on your purchase of a nice 31 hehehe.

I've had my car out at skiddies, and oran part north circuit a few times. It goes alright considering it only has the stock Vspec diff and no mech diff. I'm just too worried about bending panels, especially at OP. I'm too worried to commit enough into the drift and too worried to drift at higher speeds etc. It's pretty scary when you spin out too, because i find that people drive pretty close together. There ahve been a few occassions where the person behind has almost hit me after I spun out

32s are way over priced for what they are. To get a decent 32, that is, one that won't blow up, i'd probably have to pay around 11-12k. Then I still end up only having a stock way underpowered and undertorqued car. It would still have boat suspensions and everything. If I was going to pay aroudn that price, i'd just pick up another 33 for around 13-14k instead. The rb25 would be much more appropriate. That's why I was looking for a 31. I've read various posts from fatz and other knowledgeable people in the past before. Starting with the stock rb30, which has quite a bit of torque and power. Then welding the diff.....

Btw, mods, I put this thread in the NSW section, because i'm in NSW and i'm looking for an r31 in NSW.

I was just wondering if fatz or other r31 friendly people could give me some advice on something. I currently have an r33 with a range of mild mods. It drifts pretty well, but i'm just really too scared to bend it. I was hoping to pick up an r31 to take over the drift duties. If I bent the 31 or smashed it, or whatever, it would be fine. Just bang the panels back out with a hammer, gaffa tape fix, whatever. Does the stock rb30 powered aussie 31 drift alright? Anything I should be on the look out for apart from an lsd, which is of course important? Can the stock lsd be welded? What mods from the nissan range e.g. 32s, 33s, s13s etc can be bolted straight in or with minimal mods (I was thinking more along the lines of suspension components etc? Does anyone actually have one for sale? I'm talking cheap like around 1k, which won't die on me, and which may have some stuff on it already like new clutch etc. Cheers fellars

maybe all you guys have a grounding problem or something? I have the stock horn, and let me tell ya, it's fricken loud. I use it all the time, and it's still running strong. It's louder than any other car i've driven, and beleive me, i love testing the horns.

is it just based on the knock sensor voltage?

hey paul again I know it's only a value. As in, apexi gets a reading from a sensor, performs some calculation on it, and bob's your uncle, you have the knock value. But where does it get it from?

I was just wondering how does the powerfc/safc give you a knock value? e.g. I know the powerfcs go from 0-100 (0 being no knock, 100 being craploads). Do they just use the knock sensor voltage and perform a calculation on it? Cheers fellas

Unfortunately, i'm not in melbourne, but thanks so much for all the advice. I guess i was expecting it to be different. Everyone seems to say a tight tight mechanical diff is the goods. I was just thinking that if even my friend's brand new standard viscious does that chirp chirp (crabwalk) thing slightly, i was thinking that this might. But now i understand. I suppose the best way to think about it is like ABS. Obviously the wheels aren't going to do a full lock like a non abs car.

Paul, I'm not sure if we're talking about changing the same fluid. I changed the diff fluid, i.e. the drain bolt on the bottom and fill plug on the side. The old fluid wasn't really dirty. I put in motul lsd oil. this is just used to lubricate the diff. What i'm unsure about how to change, is the oil in that tank in the boot. This is part of a separate system. this system has an oil pump, which pumps fluid to make the diff lock I bleieve? The original fluid appears to be black. The jap owner topped it up with some ATF, which is red and just floating on top making me believe the proper stuff is something different.

Now, gtrs come with 2 way mech diffs. Vspec comes with these diffs, so surely they must be better? Doesn't feel like it to me though. There are a few more things that I have observed: My car has got the vspec diff with the finned cover. I have the fluid tank in the right of the boot I have the slip/a-lsd lights. So I guess I could say that it's pretty certain I have A-LSD. If I drop the clutch, the Slip light comes on and both wheels do spin. My issue with the diff, is it seems to be quite lazy. I'll elaborate on this further. I've been in a car with a fresh viscous lsd. I am 100% sure that it was a fresh r33 viscous, because it was on a friend's car (definitely wasn't a mechanical aftermarket). He had it replaced by warranty when his diff died. It was actually quite tight and quite nice. e.g. if you give it a bit more gas when going around a corner, you could feel it go lock lock lock lock lock (sorta like a mech diff, but nowhere near as tight or as brutal). Now, my A-lsd seems to be quite comfortable, and not what i'd expect of on a vspec, considering it is suppoed to be better than the normal gtr which did come witha mech diff. I seem to have to give it quite a bit when going in a tight circle before the slip light comes on. it deosn't really seem to lock that much either. Now, I have changed the diff oil to new oil. didn't really do much. My next thought was that maybe the fluid in the cylinder needed changing. It's strange. My jap owner seems to have tried to top it up with ATF. But the ATF is just sitting on top of the orignal fluid. The ATF looks quite obviously red. The other fluid looks black. So i'm not sure what eh orginal fluid is. Is it attessa fluid? Do you know how to change the fluid? like do you have anythign on it? I have the r33 engine manual and the r32gtr full car manual, and neither have it.