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Everything posted by paul_psi

  1. Its strange because I had aftermarket steering wheel on my car and the hicas light would come on when id go over 100kph roughly and didnt go out till I turnd the car off then once I put the bar in the light was on all the time when I put the bar in I also put coilovers tie rods lower control arms ect so it went straight on a tow truck to pedders and the aligned it all for me and they fould the no power steer problem and they told me it was the pump or electrical I drove around for a couple days before I checked the fluid to find it was bone dry I topped it up had power steering again but driving it with no fluid must had wrecked the pump so when I changed it everything was fine just the hicas light and when I put the gtr dash in I just took the globe out im not sure if having a microtech or any aftermarket computer makes a differance
  2. Check your fluids first there should be a light on your dash unless the globe has already been taken out. Has your car got an aftermarket steering wheel? By memory my was low fluid or the pump
  3. I narrowed it down to the same 2 welders and went cig aswell but now looking at the water coolers wish I went uni for the only reason is $500 uni watercooler and $1500 for the cig. I'll prob end up getting the uni cooler and adapt it to the cig to save the $1000
  4. They are already sold people I posted last night but it must not had gone through they sold in the first minute
  5. Info on them https://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=16765 And I'm in Wollongong if anyone wants to pick them up
  6. I bought the wrong mounts they are brand new in the box $100 plus postage give me a call on 0432574967 Fit r32 r33 r34 gtr's
  7. It ended up being the pump i think from memory I changed it and the power steering worked fine again. I'm rebuilding the car again at the moment and putting in a cage so I'll be removing the hicas computer all together so I'll let everyone know if it plays up but I'm also running microtech so I don't think tgere will be a prob
  8. Yeah mine are mild steel I just had a close look at them they might be 3.5inch with 4 inch welded on looks a bit sus
  9. That's what I said to the engineer and he said that it doesn't make a difference he said just get 1 euro4 and I'll be fine aslong as there's no raw fuel Iv got a 4 inch to 3.5 inch back to 4 at the moment with 2 mufflers and it was 85 dbs the limit is 90 dbs so I can't see the extra .5 inch for half a metre making it 5 dbs louder
  10. It's only to pass epa so I'm thinking euro3 with 3inch inlets I'll just reduce the 4 inch exhaust before the cat and I'll change it to a venom or whatever after iv done the test I'll just have vbands before the reduces I know it's a stuff around but need to past the test
  11. I need 4inch inlet out let. Im making a 4 inch exhaust
  12. Cool thanks I'll see if they have them in 4 inch
  13. Cool I'll speak to him again I was paying $180 for 8.4m3 so I thought $170 for 10.5m3 was good
  14. Thanks mate the test is a IM240 meaning a 240second test he said worst case I'll have to change the cams and injector then should be sweet and a very mild tune he is most worried about raw fuel in the exhaust one drop and I'll fail straight away
  15. I need to go for an emissions test to get my engineer cert and iv been told to get a euro 4 cat converter has anyone heard of these or what have people used to help pass epa? I'm running e85-90 2200 injectors 270 duration 10.5 lift ect. Sorry for hijacking didn't want to start another thread
  16. Yeah that's definitely a really good price
  17. Iv got a Jim berry full Monty best clutch ever in my opinion great to drive with and can handle as much power you want to through at it realisticly I got mine for $1000 off here and installed it myself and got the slave reco'd and braided line for $100ish
  18. You need to check how much gas is actually in the bottle I'm paying $170 for 10.5m3 boc was only 8.4m3 and I pay $18 rent per month but if I get someone else to sign up I get free rental for a year I'm with supagas and I get free pickup delivery
  19. Tired it a few times on a couple heat shields I made for vls with the gate welded on top of the manifold and doing one cut with the bi-metal hole saw killed it yeah I got through but destroyed a $80 holesaw in the process much easier doing it with the hydraulic punch if your cutting through sheet less then a mm yeah go ahead but 2mm plus your just throughing your money away
  20. Never tried tungsten on stainless I'm using Milwaukee ones at the moment and they are unreal for going through alloy but any bi-metal ones would be fine don't even try to go through stainless with them
  21. It's definately the best tool for putting 4 inch holes in air boxes
  22. smaller holes like dash fittings on surge tanks or catch cans I use step drill but on the bigger stuff like bov holes or caps on resivor tank I use a hydrolic punch or holesaw it's cleaner and easier
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