paul_psi
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Posts posted by paul_psi
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I've just encountered a similar problem to this with my S2. Power steering seems to be heavier than normal but it's a constant not intermittent problem. HICAS is plugged in and no lock bar or dash lights. I'm going to check fluids soon but I'm guessing it's a pump issue or the speed sensor?
Check your fluids first there should be a light on your dash unless the globe has already been taken out. Has your car got an aftermarket steering wheel? By memory my was low fluid or the pump
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Not the token tools one however when researching for my machine I narrowed it down to the unimig machines and the cigweld. Silverwater Welding highly recommend the Unimig machine and have had very little trouble with them. I only bought the cigweld machine because of the deal I got.
I narrowed it down to the same 2 welders and went cig aswell but now looking at the water coolers wish I went uni for the only reason is $500 uni watercooler and $1500 for the cig. I'll prob end up getting the uni cooler and adapt it to the cig to save the $1000
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They are already sold people I posted last night but it must not had gone through they sold in the first minute
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Info on them
https://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=16765
And I'm in Wollongong if anyone wants to pick them up
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I bought the wrong mounts they are brand new in the box $100 plus postage give me a call on 0432574967
Fit r32 r33 r34 gtr's
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It ended up being the pump i think from memory I changed it and the power steering worked fine again. I'm rebuilding the car again at the moment and putting in a cage so I'll be removing the hicas computer all together so I'll let everyone know if it plays up but I'm also running microtech so I don't think tgere will be a prob
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Yeah mine are mild steel I just had a close look at them they might be 3.5inch with 4 inch welded on looks a bit sus
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They are the large oval hurricanes
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The one I have is 3 in 3 out
What model xr6t?
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I would run a stock exhaust for test, with 2 or 3 stock cats, just to make sure it passes first time.
That's what I said to the engineer and he said that it doesn't make a difference he said just get 1 euro4 and I'll be fine aslong as there's no raw fuel
Iv got a 4 inch to 3.5 inch back to 4 at the moment with 2 mufflers and it was 85 dbs the limit is 90 dbs so I can't see the extra .5 inch for half a metre making it 5 dbs louder
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It's only to pass epa so I'm thinking euro3 with 3inch inlets I'll just reduce the 4 inch exhaust before the cat and I'll change it to a venom or whatever after iv done the test I'll just have vbands before the reduces I know it's a stuff around but need to past the test
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I need 4inch inlet out let. Im making a 4 inch exhaust
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Cool thanks I'll see if they have them in 4 inch
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Cool I'll speak to him again I was paying $180 for 8.4m3 so I thought $170 for 10.5m3 was good
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Any ideas where I can get a 4 inch euro3?
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Thanks mate the test is a IM240 meaning a 240second test he said worst case I'll have to change the cams and injector then should be sweet and a very mild tune he is most worried about raw fuel in the exhaust one drop and I'll fail straight away
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I need to go for an emissions test to get my engineer cert and iv been told to get a euro 4 cat converter has anyone heard of these or what have people used to help pass epa? I'm running e85-90 2200 injectors 270 duration 10.5 lift ect.
Sorry for hijacking didn't want to start another thread
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Yeah that's definitely a really good price
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Iv got a Jim berry full Monty best clutch ever in my opinion great to drive with and can handle as much power you want to through at it realisticly I got mine for $1000 off here and installed it myself and got the slave reco'd and braided line for $100ish
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You need to check how much gas is actually in the bottle I'm paying $170 for 10.5m3 boc was only 8.4m3 and I pay $18 rent per month but if I get someone else to sign up I get free rental for a year I'm with supagas and I get free pickup delivery
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Tired it a few times on a couple heat shields I made for vls with the gate welded on top of the manifold and doing one cut with the bi-metal hole saw killed it yeah I got through but destroyed a $80 holesaw in the process much easier doing it with the hydraulic punch if your cutting through sheet less then a mm yeah go ahead but 2mm plus your just throughing your money away
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Never tried tungsten on stainless
I'm using Milwaukee ones at the moment and they are unreal for going through alloy but any bi-metal ones would be fine don't even try to go through stainless with them
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It's definately the best tool for putting 4 inch holes in air boxes
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smaller holes like dash fittings on surge tanks or catch cans I use step drill but on the bigger stuff like bov holes or caps on resivor tank I use a hydrolic punch or holesaw it's cleaner and easier
Diy:disable Hicas, Retain Power Steering. For Free!
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ
Posted
Its strange because I had aftermarket steering wheel on my car and the hicas light would come on when id go over 100kph roughly and didnt go out till I turnd the car off then once I put the bar in the light was on all the time when I put the bar in I also put coilovers tie rods lower control arms ect so it went straight on a tow truck to pedders and the aligned it all for me and they fould the no power steer problem and they told me it was the pump or electrical I drove around for a couple days before I checked the fluid to find it was bone dry I topped it up had power steering again but driving it with no fluid must had wrecked the pump so when I changed it everything was fine just the hicas light and when I put the gtr dash in I just took the globe out im not sure if having a microtech or any aftermarket computer makes a differance