Doctor 30

coil pack is cracked but needed plugs anyway

I just run cut lower control arms as per Gordon Dobie's advise and then R31 GTS struts with R30 tops. You have to grind the thread to fit them but it all works reasonably well. Other thing is to get the shortest possible inserts for the back or it sits up and looks stupid. The shocker guys in Heidelberg West were good and fitted the new inserts for free. I forget what there name is.

This thread just has potentially saved me $88 buying another coil pack. As soon as I read the "sounds like a WRX and drives like shit" I knew this is the same problem that mine has developed. I actually started racing to work because mine would crap itself after 20 mins before the plug would break down. BTW, don't buy plugs in the multi blister packs as they are the rejects from the single boxed items (so I have heard from a mate in the trade.

PM me if you have an rb20det coil pack

Pricing for each? I just cooked one. Thanks PM me if you done want to post or email to [email protected]

It came out with the "magnet on a rod" tool and a pair of vice grips. So ner, it was plated steel. But! and here is where the most brilliant piece of bush mechanic vs lazy arse comes in. Getting the replacement welch plug in. Its the one behind the turbo so there is no room to tap it in. So after 1.5 hrs of experimenting poking and prodding I found the correct tools for the job are a 19mm socket and a jimmy bar. You put the 19mm socket inside the plug and get the Jimmy bar under the engine mount. Then lever the jimmy bar against the socket to get the welch plug into the desired depth. The jimmy bar enters from behind the cross member. So thats is how it is done

if a welch/welsh plug goes in the side of the block (turbo side down the bottom behind the engine mount ) and you can't get it out, where will it go?

I have the same problem except mine just blew the radiator recently. Get under the car and check for leaking welsh plugs. I replaced the radiator cap and kept topping up the motor and flushing it until I realised it was a stuffed welsh plug which would suck air back into the motor which caused a massive pressure build up when I turned off the motor. (I happened to accidently pop mine into the block so I wouldn't do what I did to repair it)

It was rusted through so I can only assume it wasn't brass but plated mild steel. I can assure you it was corrosion that caused it to leak. Any ideas to get that diagram? Does anyone have a stripped down motor they can have a look inside for me?

does anyone know where I can get a diagram or drawing of the block?

In my desparation to short cut taking the turbo off I think I have knocked a welsh plug into the motor. The reason I can't be sure is that I was levering at it and it should have popped out but I cant be sure. I think I can feel it has fallen toward the back of the motor. I need a diagram of the block to see where it could have gone. If anyone has one or can direct me to a website that does then I will be able to tell the sort of destruction it may cause in the future. (especially as it rusts away to smaller floaties) It is the one that is between the engine mount and the oil line (the bigger welsh plug near the bottom). I have felt around inside and it doesn't seem to have any where to go and shouldn't block any thing but it would be good to know for sure. Any advice on this would be appreciated

I have an HR30 with a DR30 Iron mask front. It has an RB20DET and has the compliance plaque for it. It is very low and the body doesn't look to have rust. Other mods are a cheap BOV (works fine but has to be taken off for RWC) supra intercooler, a rebuilt roller bearing turbo. has 16" wheels and R31 front brakes and struts (some say they are better.) It runs 14psi and easily lights up 225/50 tyres. The lower control arms have been cut and shut by and aircraft welder (Jeff Bishop from Airweld) to give a lot of camber, the car never understeers. The electrics need some attention, they all work but are a dim. It has a link ECU with hand held controller. It even has the original stereo. I can supply the original wheels too. The drivers seat is crap but the rest of the interior is fine and I can organise some R33 GTS front seats. If you are interested I can send pics. I am in Victoria.

isn't there a cheap way to do the hilux mod? I have R31 GTS front struts and brakes in my HR30 but they are crap and far too expensive for parts because the rotors are a poofteenth bigger than the standard r31 units. There has to be a real dodgy mix of parts that will combine to use the 4 pot hilux units and still retain the same stud pattern. And yes the front of the car double acts as a road scraper with those struts.

I have the same problem but my thermostat opens in boiling water. I heard that if if doesn't open on boiling water it is definitely stuffed. But if it does open it doesn't necessarily mean it is good because it is a totally different enviroment under pressure. Can anyone confirm if I am right or wrong in thinking this?

Check the nine pin connector just on the right of the brake booster, mine burned out for some bizzare reason so check that.

I have replaced my ball joints/lower control arms, had 3 wheel balances etc, and I still have an awful clunk on big bumps and vibration at 80kmh, I bet my drag link or idler arm is stuffed too. I'll get under it next weekend

who was the guy in the DR30 drifting at Calder on channel 10 today?? For those who didn't see it he got knocked out in the first round but it was great to see a DR30 competing. I think channel 10 should have done more of a segment on it but I might just be a little bias. There was only 1 non nissan which was a v8 holden ute.

Still, how about some pics, I'd love to see it? Is the centre nut a hub cab or an actual hold the wheel on nut?

I am going to get my car tuned properly and then post all the settings so that everyone can cheaply tune their RB20DET powered cars that have link ecu's. Previous mechanic was tuning it off a poisoned o2 sensor. Which is why it was running stupidly rich. Wait patiently but eagerly for the results

As no one can tell me what it is set at I am going to get the car retuned at rematch in Thomastown. I will then post every single value so that anyone that buys a Link ECU can just copy it and let the fun begin! Aren't I the charitable one?!

so really I should reset the whole thing. Set the master fuel ,then the Row Fuel, then the individual load points.. I can't be stuffed. Well maybe I can

hang on, who's hijacking this thread! I also have a MASTER FUEL section. WTF is that about?!

Yeah, I was thinking other things being equal (IE load) Mine runs from RPM and MAP (I don't have an AFM. TPS is only used for extra enrichment which mine is set at 50% throttle. So my car is probably running ridiculously rich down low and dangerously lean up top. Thanks for sorting that out for me. I now need to find out what is a good duty cycle for varying loads and rpms for the RB20DET. Anyone that can help that would know would be very useful!!!

So realistically for a given manifold pressure it should read 1000 rpm 20% 2000 rpm 25% 3000 rpm 35% 4000 rpm 45% etc Is that correct?

What does duty cycle actually mean. If I am running at 2000rpm at 40% then that would be twice as rich as 4000rpm at 40% because the injector would be twice as long at 2000rpm when compared with 4000rpm. Or does the computer allow for this?