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Captain Wow

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About Captain Wow

  • Rank
    Captain Wow
  • Birthday 01/07/1989

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New Zealand

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    92 180sx, 97 Stagea
  • Real Name
    Lance
  1. For the sake of not leaving a dead end thread incase anyone with my similar lack of knowledge ever comes looking, NZ-GTT is correct about the blue plug with brown and blue wires, it is from pin 108 and is 'canister purge valve control signal'. The black plug with blue wire, white trace and brown wire is from pin 104 and is 'variable air intake control solenoid valve control signal (rb25de)' or 'turbo pressure control solenoid valve control (rb25det)'. So obviously you can use pin 104 as your MAC valve signal from your aftermarket ECU. The pinouts etc that KiwiRS4T were on point for the pinouts etc.
  2. Cheers for that info. If that's the case here, I wonder if the loom was changed over at the same time as the engine.
  3. Do the aux cables plug into those male pins on the side of the ECU board? I did notice those when it was apart. The car has an external MAP sensor attached to the side of the intake plenum and I didn't see any allocation for it on the board when it was apart. It's not got a stock o2 sensor at all (a very average diy exhaust was on it) and I also can't see the plug for where it would have been at the moment. The LC-2 comes with a bung and I'm rebuilding the exhaust from scratch as part of the turbo upgrade, so I can place it in a better spot when I get to that stage. I had not realised that Soichi had left, I will get in touch with Glenn when the time comes - he's closer to where I live anyways, so that's handy!
  4. I spoke to Link tech support and they said I'd be able to use the factory wiring for the o2 and EBC (that was however, before I thought about the fact that the car was originally NA). Are the AUX looms available for the plug in ECU's or just the wire in ones? I'll still have to have a dig around to find the o2 wiring and I'm guessing I could pin into the the ECU for the MAC solenoid I that wiring isn't in the loom? The car is going into ST Hitec for it's tuning, although this one hasn't been anywhere yet. Appreciate the attachments of the pin outs! Unsure of what loom is in the car at the moment, which is most of my problem really. If I knew that, or how to identify it, I think it'd make all this a lot easier lol. The ECU is a plug in G4 - I opened it up to have a look and the board says it's for a R34 GTS but there's also a few wires cut and joined close to the ECU plug, and a few through the grommet into the engine bay. I've got a generic MAC solenoid and a Innovate LC-2 Wideband controller/o2 sensor. Cheers for the help and replies so far guys.
  5. Hey guys, I'm delving into some of the wiring on the Stagea and need some helping hands as I'm about as useful as a chocolate teapot when it comes to wiring. It's a S1 C34, which was originally RWD non turbo, auto. It's been manual converted and had an engine conversion out of a R34 GTT skyline, so therefore, now running a RB25DET Neo with a Link G4 plug in ECU. I've recently done a turbo swap and am planning on running EBC and Wideband o2 with the ECU as it has neither of these things at the moment. I'm currently trying to figure out the wiring to wire in both the WB o2 sensor and EBC but upon uncovering the ECU, there has been some previous work gone on with solder and tape. I'm assuming it's in order to get the engine conversion up and running. However, I digress, could someone confirm that the ECU pinout for the R34 GTT is what I'm after when it comes to identifying the wires in the ECU plug, and would anyone also know if the Boost Pressure Solenoid wiring was included in the NA wiring harness or am I going to have to pin that in to the ECU connector? I'm assuming the o2 sensor is somewhere amongst the mess of wiring I'm looking at, although I can't see the plug in the engine bay at the moment. I'll also attach some pictures of two plugs that were cable tied to a loom next to the throttle body and if someone could identify those, it'd be great. The first one is a black plug with a blue wire with white trace, and a brown wire pinned in, the second plug is a blue plug with a brown wire and a blue wire pinned in. Cheers for reading through the novel and trying to make sense of my babble. - Lance
  6. Not my cup of tea, but spot on for doing something different!
  7. Good to know that it's not just me having a problem setting it up, Duncan. I've emailed Jaycar in the hope that someone will know what's happening and steer me in the right direction. I've pored over the back of that speedo, Bob, and I cannot find those same characters on the back of my speedo. I've even painstakingly traced the track from the pin, all the way through and no where does it have a screw intercepting it. Cheers, - Lance
  8. I've tried the process of elimination Bob, but neither seem to bring any joy.... Which seems weird. I think I'm having issues with the actual module now (even though I purchased a second one just to make sure it wasn't that) Duncan, the plan is to mount it behind the cluster and splice it into the loom there. I don't suppose you remember if there was anything funny about setting it up initially? Cheers, - Lance
  9. Hi guys, I'm trying to determine what the wires off my speed sensor are. I've got a Black wire with a White stripe, and a Grey wire with a Red stripe. They both go through to the back of the speedo cluster and I'm really trying to figure out which one to tap into to get my speedo corrector working. Also, is there anywhere to get a wiring diagram for a S1 C34 Stagea? Cheers, - Lance
  10. Hi all, I finally got around to having a crack at installing a Jaycar Speedo corrector in my C34. http://www.jaycar.co...MODULE/p/AA0376 I'm having an issue with getting it to work however. I've double checked all the wiring and I'm guessing I have it all right. I've got the Incoming and Outgoing signals on the '2P' pin on the back of the speedo with an isolating washer separating the two. The manual says that your speedo will stop working until the corrector calibrates itself and the LED will flash at 1Hz. I can't seem to get the speedo to stop and the module to calibrate. I was wondering if it might have something to do with the fact I'm running a Link G4 and that may have the speedo signal going into that first? Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, - Lance
  11. A fault code for the airbag, one would suspect. Probably more luck with Google or a Swift forum, Varinder. - Lance
  12. Just after I bought a standard auto console and fabricated up the shifter surround and hand break hole haha. Cheers for the knowledge Rim.
  13. Nah, it shouldn't do, unless someone has coloured it. It should be clear, and show clear no matter what colour you put behind it. Cheers, - Lance
  14. As Kiwi said, Spud, the lens will allow you to change to whatever coloured LED bulb you want as it's clear. I've changed mine to blue and it's quite bright as the LED are far brighter than the old bulbs. If you mean something else, take some pictures so we can understand better. Cheers, - Lance
  15. Brilliant! Cheers Duncan. - Lance
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