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Everything posted by wildeagle44

  1. Its likely extra long to account for top mount turbo manifolds
  2. I didn’t see any head oil restrictors mentioned in your list. They’re a must.
  3. Will need to be EFI fuel hose. Any type will do, it’s not moulded.
  4. There are rubber lines that join the hard lines from the fuel tank and fuel rail. If these haven’t been replaced they could be brittle and start cracking
  5. Could be a boost leak or it might be pulling timing. Have you checked for fault codes?
  6. Disconnect the afm’s and see if it will start in limp mode. Kind of sounds like a cas issue
  7. +1 mishimoto fans are no good. Been there done that. Also check with an aftermarket gauge or plug into the ecu to verify your temps
  8. I have the NPC single plate, 6 puk. Great clutch, 4 years of abuse at 330kw. Light under foot but very bitey.
  9. I have used both stock nissan and npc supplied throwout with that clutch, both work no issue. Currently have the nissan bearing installed. Friction point is slightly higher up on the pedal, but again, no issues.
  10. Is the ecu seeing the car crank? As in the rpm? Could be a cas issue, have you pulled the plugs while cranking the engine to check for spark? Whiteys wiring would be my pick up north.
  11. Rb25det S1 wiring loom including alternator and gearbox loom. Has been modified to suit the followingS2/neo coil packsS2/neo casInjectors to suit ev14 Z32 AFMThe rest of the plugs are to suit s1Will need tps plug (supplied) and vct (not supplied) plugs joined/added.Its not in fantastic condition but does still work. Will post at buyers expense Pickup from Blacktown Sydney $80 negotiable
  12. Also check the clutch pedal bracket welds haven’t snapped
  13. Does the pump plug get 12v when you turn the key? Is the relay getting 12v to trigger? Does the pump run if you bridge the relay?
  14. Hi all As per title. Looking for rb bellhousing to suit os-88 sequential. Will pay postage. Please pm
  15. Auto ecu shouldnt matter I would check by plugging a computer into the consult port, there might be a way to check with a multimeter, maybe look up the service manual. Only other things i can think of are check for boost leaks or a blocked cat converter.
  16. Is the car tuned or stock? I’d be checking the timing or having a look at the knock sensors. Recently filled up with fuel? Could be a bad batch. Also check the coolant temp sensor.
  17. Use the loom and ecu that suits the engine Using an s1 loom on a neo engine you will need to swap cas plug + wires, vct plug, injector plugs, aac, iacv, delete ignitor,
  18. Had an issue with TPS wiring that caused somthing similiar. Would throw a code on the haltech though?
  19. Check for boost leaks, test your coolant sensor, what fuel pump do you have?
  20. I used to use achilles 123’s then went to kuhmo KU31 or KU36 up front as steer tyres. Ran some china tyres up front over the weekend and they worked great. No idea about tyre suppliers in vic. I usually ebay mine unless there is a matsuri special on. Gktech or PBM have some decent gear. You might struggle to find much front end wise for an R31 aside from lock washers/spacers. If i was staying R31 i’d do an s13 front suspension swap.
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