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Everything posted by Predator1

  1. Silly question, do you know what comp ratio of your old/new motors?
  2. If people don't believe it, I'd be happy to post the quote up for arguments sake. Personally, I don't see how PPG's helical gears can be stronger then straight cut dogs, which is why I didn't go with a PPG. Personally, I don't care how loud my gearbox is. I'd rather have a loud, and reliable setup, over a docile, and not so reliable setup.
  3. Did you get the 380mm rotors from Brakes Direct? Are they actual 380 o 378?
  4. Thought I'd chime in. I emailed PPG for a quote for their new billet housing.. 32.5K AUD. Needless to say I didnt buy the PPG.
  5. Hopefully this helps.. I have a OS Giken R3C, triple plate, and I find that I need to be on my toes in terms of shift quality. I find its very sensitive. When the clutch is cool/cold its easier to drive/ride it, but once its warmed up, there's hardly any give. Bite point is towards the top of the pedal, but not quite. Street driving isn't very friendly.. I have to give it a bit of revs to take off - A little too much and she chips, too little(sometimes all 4), and I'll stall(Whilst everyone thinks I cant drive a manual). Put it into perspective, my mate with a nismo twin plate(comp edition) hates my clutch. Its a bit of a pig to drive imo, but I'm not fussed, cos when I do launch it, it grabs hard.
  6. Are you running the same 378mm/6 pot alcons in the front too? If so, where did you get your pagids from? Whats it like on the road?
  7. Yeah they are great. Customer service aside though. And yes, that's perhaps something they can change in future. One thing i forgot to mention was that you don't feel the big jolt in braking. Hard to explain, but I don't feel that big surge of negative G when I brake moderately, however it certainly scrubs the speed off. This is my first BBK, so i cant compare with others out there. Over the next few weeks I'll do some repetitive 100-0 tests and report back.
  8. Right, so I've had the brakes in for a little while now, so I thought I'd review the brakes. With all the fitment issues aside, the brakes themselves are 'fkn' amazing. Initial bite on the FP3 pads are sharp and instant. I get absolutely NO noise at all. I had to bleed the brakes a few times as it was a bit spongy, so now its pretty damn good. It inspires alot of confidence to push hard. I have yet to really stomp on it, and I haven't had any sustained repetitive braking yet, but on the street the brakes are a dream. I've done a few hardish stops from around 80-100 and boy does she pull up well(without warming them up). I will take her out to a track in the next month or two and will get to see how she performs. I've since also talked to Brakes Direct, and their communication is pretty damn good as well.
  9. Yeah, that's what I've done. Not a fan of making holes in my car at all.
  10. It is a no brainer to convert to a big single, except if you want to keep the twin turbo/jdm appeal(which is fair enough). However do keep in mind that your rear turbo does get hotter, but if you're street driving, it wont be an issue at all.
  11. You could stick the AC fan on a switch, and flick it on when in traffic etc. I've upgraded my AC fan to something bigger, and I have it come with the AC as well as when ECT goes over 96(Only in crawling traffic)
  12. I looked at those for my build but didnt steered away. I figured that irrespective how much a wp flows, it really depends on how effecient the radiator/shroud combo is. Not to derail the topic, but I personally ran the GKTech fan in my rb30, and it was utter SHIT. Swapped it with the stock clutch fan and all my water temp issues went away.
  13. Personally, I'd rate Tomei highest, followed closely by Nitton Sine Drive, PRP would probably be slightly better then N1. Not sure how they've managed their R&D, I'm guessing its a Nitto copy. A good friend of mines running a very similar motor(RB30 with extended sump and restrictors), hes running a Nitto oil pump, and I'm running a Tomei. We both run the same oil - I get slightly higher oil pressure at any oil given oil temp. Not saying that having higher op is 'better', but that's just an observation.
  14. Of course, which is why you don't see the likes of Nitto, or any other flavour make their own cars. Imagine that, billet R32 GTR... You could even crash it multiple times, without breaking, just not sure about the occupants though.
  15. Or better yet, a prius motor, we wouldn't need to burn any cash.
  16. BRB... I'll go call Nitto/HKS/Tomei/Nismo and tell em to throw their their billet cranks and oil pumps as their R&D is questionable and weaker then oem piss.
  17. According to some umpa lumpa's, you're better off putting that 75k towards an R35, or a Tesla Plaid.
  18. With an attitude like that, you are better off driving a Prius mate. Good luck in life.
  19. 500hp(Assuming atw), is only 350~awkw. Doubt the stock turbo's would take that reliably. Whatever you do, make sure you leave some headroom for future, cos you will get used to the power, and want more. Dont skimp out on your turbo. Save your money till you can afford something decent.
  20. You do know that you cant overspin those turbo's right? You need to keep an eye on the shaft speed. Pretty good turbo's though. On a stock 26 they will be a bit laggy, but be good with a built 26.
  21. What he said ^. Do what you want. Mine just went downhil very very quickly, its in my profile if you want to read through. If I could do it all over again, I'd stick with a built 26 with around 4-450awkw.
  22. Look up Motive Video's twin's vs single video. I personally went big single just cos.
  23. Said every GTR owner, always. I too said that............
  24. I've just gotten mine going, and I don't notice anything like what you're seeing. What oil are you using? I used basic semi syn for run in and now running full syn - My oil doesn't have shimmer at all. Do you see any of that crap in the filter if you cut it open?
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