Predator1
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Posts posted by Predator1
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1 hour ago, Predator1 said:
In saying that, the NZ Wiring CAS is an excellent upgrade too from stock.. lots of guys run them. Depends how much you want to fork out really and how hard youll be pushing your setup.
Heres one as we speak!
34 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:We must be related.
I use a NZ Cam trigger kit with an ATI balancer. I needed to get a custom PS pulley to suit the RB25 PS pump from Hi Octane Racing.
Motor hasn't exploded yet, makes 437kW, has seen half a dozen track days at SMSP, 2x silly wannabe Power cruise events and runs AC.
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Trying my luck here to see if anyone's willing to let go, or upgrading from, before I look at buying new.
I have a mint condition EFR9180 w 1.05(powder coated compressor cover) too for sale or swap. Done less then maybe 3-4000ks.
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Personally I'd stick with ATI.. either 750 or 1000hp version, and stick a trigger kit too while youre at it. Lots of choices for trigger kits.. dont have to get PRP if you dont want to. Either way, wont get much change from 2knz. In saying that, the NZ Wiring CAS is an excellent upgrade too from stock.. lots of guys run them. Depends how much you want to fork out really and how hard youll be pushing your setup.
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11 hours ago, te37 said:
p.s. don't replace your clutch on the floor of your garage unless you have a great therapist
Me and me friend did this on his 33R in his basement carpark only using the torch from our phones. That top starter bolt musta taken us about an hour alone. Needless to say I am now an expert in removing R boxes in a basement carpark with iphone torch and limited number of tools
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39 minutes ago, r32-25t said:
1000hp and response really don’t go together on these engines, it’s a one or the other kind of thing
Obviously. Trying to figure out how much of a hit it will have on my response.
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5 hours ago, Lithium said:
That HKS turbo (or a G42 1450) would give a massive hit to response but definitely a heap more headroom too. I guess you just got to decide how much "heaps more power" or keeping some degree of down low punch matter though I think that's come up before. Realistically expect the ability to make 800+kw @ wheels but also 1000+rpm more lag too.
@DVS JEZ Ran a G42 1200 on his RB30 (so size down turbo from what you are asking about on the size down engine) and that even made big numbers, but also paints a picture of how much later spool will be. Realistically probably not terrible for the power when you factor in the stroker, but if you're picturing something that drives like the 9180 then it's going to be pretty disappointing.
Thanks lith. Wow thats hideous haha. under 150kw by 4 and 250 by 5. In comparison, I'm making 260 by 4, and 370 by 5.. and thats in 5th gear as well. From 4k the line is almost linear. Ive been looking at the 9280... Not sure if that will get me 4 digits either.
I'm so addicted to the response that I dont really want to lose it.
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2 hours ago, Lithium said:
Look for results on Garrett G42-1450s, basically the same thing.
What is your target power etc? Are you less worried about response now?I am still after response, but I want to see what kind of a hit it will take.. I want to take my car over to Japan soon.
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On 23/03/2024 at 9:13 PM, [SKYHI] said:
Well I went to he pump today
109km traveled and it took 43lt of fuel to fill up to the first click
I'm at 486kw on the wheels
Get a lambda, and learn to not drive like a dick on the roads.
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On the topic of the HKS GT III Turbo's....
What about GT75115_BB?
https://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/product/turbo/universal/index.html
Ive been having a look at this to replace my EFR9180 with. Theres a few cars that made 1250+hp with this on racegas:
https://www.hks-power.co.jp/product/turbo/universal/example.html
Anyone run this yet?? Especially on a 3.0 or 3.2 Perhaps?? Super interested..
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On 13/01/2024 at 3:57 PM, SiR_RB said:
So these pumps have been out for sale now for some years
has anyone here used one and whats the comparison to an oem or even n1 unit ?
I posted one a few replies up. Before I parked her up, I did lots of highway pulls. I def noticed that the ECT was alot more stable. Did lots pulls in high gears to redline and I was def happy. Safe to say my ECT issues were completely fixed.
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Which sequential? Do you know the ratios? Assuming your first will be super long as well, making it seem more laggy. Plus you're going to be running a massive turbo, and its a precision, so will be laggy as hell on the streets. Expect to be gapped by prius's. Precisions dont do compressor maps which kinda sucks.
What work have you done to your head? Please make sure your engine builder degree's your cams!! We just played with the cams on mine and its alot more responsive and made a wee bit more power.
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On 04/01/2024 at 5:09 PM, silviaz said:
Sorry mate I didn't see this. but issue is fixed, went to the local mechanic and turns out my regular mechanic that I visited multiple times didn't tighten the alternator enough. I went to double check and the tension now seems good, not overtight. Not sure how my mechanic missed that and said that it seemed all good to him lol.
So you went to see him 3 times, and he couldnt tighten the belts..?!!?!? Time to find a new mechanic.
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hah. We put the 1 piece shaft on last night.. and the vibration is back. Anyways, cars going in storage for another year soo.. cbf.
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22 hours ago, ChrisW434 said:
Nothing seems to change when hot with mine.
When you did the measurements for the build, is there enough gap (end-play)in the trans tailhousing to allow for any changes with heat/flex etc?They asked me to measure from the 2 flanges 3 times and average it out, thats all I know of.
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10 hours ago, ChrisW434 said:
I have an AlphaOmega 1piece tailshaft in my 34 GTT, no issues here. Granted, i havent spent much time going 140+ though yet. Still, love it
Good to hear - Have you noticed any vibrations at all when the shaft is hot? i mean after sitting through like 40-50 mins of traffic?
2 hours ago, TurboTapin said:Have you verified your driveshaft uni angle? With my single piece driveshaft on an R32, angle between trans and diff was far from ideal. I had to drop the engine a bit (Slotted out engine mounts) to get proper angle of -2/+2 between the two.
Nope. We had to space the box down by couple of mm too. But issue only seems to happen when the shaft gets hot. I mean its not an issue, but just vibrations. Def can live with, I'm just a picky cnut.
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I dont believe in spending $1000's over a ceramic coating when I can do it on my own.
I've been personally using this on all my cars inc my R. You spray this over and wipe your polish etc to lock in the luster etc. My car was in storage for about a year recently, and had this on before. All I had to do was give it a quick wash and it was ready for a magazine shoot.
I've got videos of things sliding off the hood, or the roof after I applied this. I also apply this on my windscreen and barely have to use the wipers(Although it does fade off after a week or two in rainy weather).
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2 hours ago, The Bogan said:
I booked it so it was less than a 1 day affair to drop it off, for them to pull it apart, rebuild and balance it, it was only a hour or so later when they rang to say it was ready for pickup
I think it was around $800????, that also included the new, Hardy Spicer uni's, couplers and centre bearing
Did you get the exact same as the Xtreme GTR, as in material, wall thickness and diameter
What was done, if anything, to the Xtreme GTR IRT the uni angles?
Thats a bit pricey haha, but let me see. I'll try to find someone local here if they can check and balance it.
Re Xtreme - I have no idea. I just know they were running one from their website and facebook.
I'll swap the tailshaft out tomorrow and see how it goes.
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22 hours ago, hardsteppa said:
Thanks for posting your experience, I was looking at getting one of these. Though, still not sure if the money would be better spent just getting the OEM shaft overhauled.
I definitely felt the engine to be more free revving with the alpha omega tail shaft. The vibrations were def the shaft, because last week, we swapped it back to my oem shaft, and the vibrations are gone... and I noticed the engine wasnt as rev happy as before(I'm super sensitive).
One thing I just realised was that when I used LC to launch with the OEM shaft, it bogged down very bad. The last launch I did with the 1 piece shaft, it didnt bog at all. I'll upload some videos soon. The launch strategy was IDENTICAL.. I tried to pre-load the drivetrain, then let it out.
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On 23/12/2023 at 10:33 AM, The Bogan said:
Have a Google IRT max tail shaft speed
What is your tail shaft speed?
Calculations are based off tail shaft speed (RPM), length, material type, material thickness and diameter
Balancing should be done at a higher rpm than your average steet car if your turning high rpm
Phasing needs to be correct
And uni angle should be in spec, no uni angle is bad, to much angle is bad, uni joints apparently like a little angle to help their internal bearings spin, some say rule of thumb is between 0.5° and 1.5° for high rpm
This is why jacked up really high 4x4's do uni's
I had issues with my 2 piece when I lowered my K-frame by only 10mm, it basically kept chewing out the couplers because the alignment was out of spec
Like you it developed high speed vibration, started about 90 mph, and was like a earth quake at 124 mph
I got my alignment right, rebuilt/rebalanced the tail shaft, and now it's good to go
2 piece tail shafts have alot of advantages over a 1 piece when you look deep, especially on a street car
Thank you, I've literally copied that and will ask my workshop.
I dont know my tailshaft speed, I would assume the speed would match the oem shaft, as it would depend on my gear ratios?
Was that an expensive exercise having it rebuilt? How long did it take?
In terms of max tailshaft RPM. I'm not sure either. I bought it as I saw the Xtreme GTR was running it. I believe he also runs an Albins with the same ratios, and he revs it to 10k IIRC.
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4 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Highly doubt it, and you're making like 10x the power of your average Toyota 86 or Honda shit box, so light weight or not, you're not really going to notice.
Bruh, mines stock occifer, honest!
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Thanks guys. I think I'll just leave it, because I dont have alot of time. Maybe before I fly back, I'll stick it back on.
Any ideas how much power difference it makes? I swear it feels different.
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So I finally bolted this puppy on my recent trip back home:
https://www.alphaomegaracing.com/product/monstar-tailshaft/
I noticed on a long drive through traffic, I started getting some vibration on the motorway around 140+ (after traffic). I'm guessing it expands ever so slightly once heated up closing up clearances.
We swapped back to the oem drive shaft and no vibration.
Anyone else running similar drive shaft? Is there any way to get rid of the vibration? I'm already running whiteline subframe bushes and Nismo rear diff bushes.
Def seemed to be more rev happy and responsive with the 1 piece though!
Should you buy cheap Chinese tyres?
in General Automotive Discussion
Posted
Personally, I would, but it depends. On my everday car like a swift or corolla, I dont mind, but def not on something that has a bit of power.
I used cheap chinese tyres on my corolla for years.. no issues. Mind you its gutless. The quality of the stuff coming out of china, and the rest of the asian countries def is getting better.