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Trex last won the day on July 8 2020

Trex had the most liked content!

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About Trex

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  • Birthday 05/09/1988

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  1. Daniel. I had messaged you previously about this Threads have been deleted instead of our usual edit. I noticed there were roughly 6 of the same thread so no harm there. You have no threads where your number is now seen.
  2. haha so much this. also luke. don't try and claim to be one of us, youre still nsw scum
  3. I'm currently working on the getrag 250g. clutch- The getrag uses a 228mm clutch disc while the 2zz flywheel and pressure plate are setup for a 212-216mm disc. I got a bmw e30 clutch disc which is 212x8.5 and a 10 spline input. and it works perfectly! The best part about this is, there are plenty 10 spline clutches in different configurations that are the same dimensions. The pivot ball, release bearing shaft, and slave cylinder pushrod needs to be moved outward. To make the fork parallel to the bearing and clutch fingers a 15mm spacer needs to me made for the release bearing shaft. This will ensure the bearing is parallel when disengaging the clutch and not binding. The pivot ball is a little plastic cone with inbuilt fork clip. Matt from the development labs (check out his abandoned and submerged r33 race car he is rescuing) came over as he was in town and helped on the build the last few nights. He has drawn me up a cad drawing to make an extension which will be stackable depending on what pressure plate i may change to down the track. The pushrod is just some allthread with a dome cap on the end. For the standard clutch and pressure plate this is fine, but if i do eventually change to a stronger pressure plate this will have to be revised. The pilot bearing is a holden 304/308 item which gives the snout of the getrag 12.8mm of engagement into the back of the crank. The belhousing to block will need to be doweled. The standard tolerance for runout of the clutch is 0.1mm. noting that the 2zz spins at 8500rpm, im not really willing to have anymore than that.. I'll also be using a scatter blanket just incase that input shaft decides it wants to let go. I had a bit of a look at the bolt situation for the belhousing to block. I can see about 6 possible spots to easily connect them together, more if i make brackets.
  4. So now the engine runs. The manifold and downpipe can be welded properly. The flange on the plenum is a little warped, hence the rough running, so ill flatten that. Thats pretty much the engine complete. This pandemic has made it hard to order parts, you really need to be careful where you order things from and make sure theyre in stock... Waiting months for parts is pretty frustrating. The engine bay and interior loom still needs a few hours of cutting and de pinning. I'll wait till its running and driving before i complete it as i still need a speed signal for lift to engage.
  5. I can't confirm. But I'd assume that's true. I would get the Kia Rio it's 15,000k oil and filter change and I do the intake cleaner myself every second service. 160k on and everything looks clean enough.
  6. It runs. VID_275540309_025556_030.mp4
  7. @Leroy Peterson You're right about the eco smart race blah modes. These usually just change the shift points and on race mode on most new cars changes the tps signal. so 1/4 throttle is really 1/2. It gives the illusion the car is punchier to drive.. Higher end cars do more, like open the exhaust to make it louder. I wouldn't be too worried about gdi, The intake cleaners work fine at removing the light deposits when done every service.
  8. Hahaha exactly. Some of my fav cars have been utes and older sedans. Everything is mechanical and you're forced to be one with the car. We don't stop loving and building older cars. But i can't deny how much much technology is making driving easier, faster, safer, and cheaper. I'm sometimes regretful of selling the stagea, but on the other hand I don't miss it at all when driving something that is better in every category while using half the amount of fuel. Sometimes you just can't predict what things are going to be worth or if you're going to miss a car or regret not purchasing that particular one. I've got a pretty long list lol
  9. We were doing stagea meets about once a month all the way up till a few years ago when we started joining in on the 'boosters' meets which had a pretty good group of teenagers and adults. We did try and get a skylines group together a few times, but seems the demographic had changed for the worse so i stopped inviting and associating with them. Boosters meets are still going and still have the same mindset and enthusiasts.
  10. The one track day that keeps coming to mind is when @TiTAN went out with his fiesta st and was doing better than a lot of highly modified 90's cars... That day pretty much cemented for me that newer tech is the way to go. (i type this while building a 74' volvo)
  11. yes, even the lower end of the market is worth it over a 90's jdm car. We got a cerato gt because it was sub 30k with dct, paddle shifters, heated and cooled seats, lane assist, great sound system, great brakes, able to drive 4+ hours with no back pain or real uneasiness. It has all the jazz. It's much better than the modified stagea. Better handling, better response. All around a better car. The one thing the gt lacks is an lsd (or better tyres than the over rated and priced pilot sport 4's). A mate and I have been talking about getting back into a japanese 90's weapons for the last year. But looking at the cost per what you get, then modifications. It's just not worth it.. The way new cars are, they are so far beyond the old race cars of the 90's youd be crazy to consider it..
  12. yeah, the traction control unit will play up... You'll probably need a compushift.
  13. So quite a lot has happened since I last posted. I've finished the wiring in the engine bay. The engine and car are still on separate looms so the engine setup can be put into something else or the car can have a B20 put back in very easily. I've also started on the interior wiring where all of the cars wiring is now tucked out of the way ready for the corollas looms to be put in. But i'll probably test start the engine before that. After doing all the front end wiring i chucked a battery in and i couldn't get anything to work.. No lights, no power, nothing... After thinking of the worst things possible i moved the ground and everything lit up! I was about ready to burn the thing to the ground. The oil system is finished. I tried to make a neat package that is hidden and not a total mess. The setup is very modular and free flowing. The cooler is placed just behind the air intake on the bottom lip, so it is also functional and it will put a little more weight over the front end. I'm a bit worried about the weight, if all the numbers on the internet are true ill be way too light in the front, and there isn't much that can be taken from the rear, the boot can be skinned and things like brackets etc can come off but there isn't much else. I came up with a 40/60 split taking into account all the weights i've found online for the 142.. I really need to corner weight the car to see exactly what it is. Made a new belt and pulley system. I got a 6 rib pulley for the tensioner arm. Most people will use an idler off to the left, but i've got a steering box there. Plenum is now finished. I used a 4g63 plenum and cut and modified it to fit on the 2zz flange and throttle body. I chose this plenum and it matches up with the 2zz fairly well, has bellmouths for each runner, the shape, and it's not absolutely massive like others. Everything follows another line so it looks like it's meant to be there. The only other thing to do is to fill it with oil. Do the fuel lines. Plug everything in and start it. I'm a bit anxious about it because I've done so much wiring on the engine and haven't even plugged it in to make sure it all works.
  14. Engine mounts are done, just need to be trimmed and painted. And started on the wire tuck. Not finished yet, but it's coming together slowly.
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