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Hard to say exactly which cooling upgrade had the most effect but the combined outcome allowed me to do 8 hot laps at Mallala back to back on a 22C day without me seeing the oil temp exceeding 106C or water 95C without the water sprayers being on. I have not checked the data logs yet to confirm the max temps, but it was certainly a success.

yeah that was my plan but then the scraps of 3mm aluminum were free

Next up was from CAD🙃 work for making up some ducting. Transferred the template to some scrap 3mm aluminum I picked up and added some pinchweld with gasket to help with sealing. The same process was used to cover the other large gaps. Made a bracket up to hold the water sprayer tanks (5L each for 10L total). The pump for the water sprayers was installed where the battery used to be, which was relocated to the left hand side. While I was cleaning things up I decided to remake the aircup system mount. Before: which made more sense when i had a full boot trim and sub/amps After The boot feels and is likely more balanced now.

Unfortunately the new oil cooler did not quiet clear the intercooler pipes to fit inside the drivers side guard where I intended. So it was back to in between the intercooler and the AC condenser. While this may not be great for adding heat it is much safer especially for drift and my affinity for sending it into tyre stacks Mounted up the water sprayers. Because I originally intended for the oil cooler to be mounted else where I bought a single nozzle sprayer to go with it. Figured I should still use it so I mounted it between the intercooler and the oil cooler.

Got the fiancé onboard to make a intake heatshield. I am still skeptical how much benefit this will really give on a turbo car but i guess colder air in should be colder air out.

Next track day is in 1 week. Hopefully I can fit the oil cooler then get ducting and water sprayers sorted before then

New radiator and oil cooler have arrived obligatory comparison shot taking car of some small easy gaps first before I tackle some ducting. Just used some adhesive foam with a heat rating to 150C to fill this little gap air may take to bypass the radiator. Oil cooler comparison

yeah hoping to duct at least the intercooler/radiator before the next grip event if not the oil/pws coolers too. corflute is a great idea.

Drifting yeah not surprising. but 2.5 laps at mallala on a grip circuit day 25°?

open to other reasons. and i think both sides are true. the RB20 would keep making more power to redline and when graphed over the turbo map it was right in the middle. However, on the 25 it falls over at ~6.5k ish. but comes on sooner so. Other points that would play a part: - The RB25 has a lower redline and revs up slower - on full boost from 3700-7250 (3550rpm range) - OEM rad shroud and oil cooler in free air with loose ducting - The RB20 had a higher redline and reved faster - on full boost from 4500-8250 (3750rpm range) - no rad shroud and oil cooler between intercooler and rad - a few years of seat time??

The biggest cause of heat is the undersized turbo. With the same setup on the RB20 where the turbo sat in its efficiency range I’d never cross 100° oil temp. Now where it’s sitting outside I have seen manifold temps of 1200° according to the ceramic coaster when he looked at the car recently and have seen the exhaust housing glow red ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ . But I am avoiding the snowball that will be changing out the turbo. so fingers crossed all the above with better ducting will be the solution.

After dealing with temp issues most track days with oil reaching 130°C * (*oil temp sensor maxes out at 130°C) I decided to look at upgrading the cooling system. To start with i got two new oil temp sensors from Metric Motorsport, one to replace the existing one on the sandwich plate and one additonal sensor to place on the relocation block so i can see the temp delta and the effectiveness of the cooler. Though looking at oil flow direction I may need to get an inline -10AN fitting so the sensor can firmly be in the return path post cooler as the current position is on the hot side of the loop. The plans for this upgrade: - Bought a Koyorad to replace the old cooling pro ebay radiator i got in ~2013 - Larger oil cooler to replace the 10row trust core, 25-30 row if i can fit it - Watersprayers - Ducting

Enjoy some POV footage of the new setup with my first time on the DSA RA2 Reverse layout of the Tailem Bend stadium circuit.

yeah the the "inside wheel" becomes your "lead wheel" and the "outside wheel" becomes your "trailing wheel" so where they are loaded up and when is almost flipped

so the knuckle changes to stock: Change of KPI for less camber gain but with more static camber LCA pushed lower drop knuckle from some correction shorter steering arms for a faster ratio use of 350z bolt on hubs which are easier to change and bigger/stronger adjustable ackerman, in my case 0, 5, 15 and 20 so all of the above benefits/changes stay the same all that changes between my drift/grip setting is the ackerman and the toe. As a starting point i'm trying out but will keep adjusting to find what works for me. Grip: Camber: -4° toe: -2mm total Caster: 7° Ackerman: +20° Drift: Camber: -4° toe: -8mm total Caster: 7° Ackerman: +5°

did some eyeballing of where the current 285mm tie rods could get me and found they were ~15mm to short to get my drift alignment settings. Found RE-844L which is meant to be 300.5mm long. Turns out the "ROADSAFE" version is 306mm long bolt everything to check clearances in each setting. Grip "Drift" pretty cool what one bolt and then some toe adjustment can do to hopefully mean i can drive to the track on a street/grip setting and reasonably quickly change it to a drift setting.

Really!? I tried a billet gearbox mount back in the day and it lasted all of 5mins before i went to a harder rubber Nismo one. Thought it would be worse with motor mounts

Torque for sure helped pull it apart but I think the heat helped to perish the rubber. I replace both together in 2019 ish. The driver side is still supple and rubber feeling. The passenger one is much more dry and cracked. eitherway slapping another oem style on in for now as I was able to grab one from a mate in reasonable condition. But may look into other mount styles in future.

After years of avoiding it due to it effecting/reducing the ackerman and being potentially worse for grip. I finally have relocated my steering rack forwards. I picked up a spare crossmember so just in case i hate it i can revert back to stock position. hopefully this will eliminate the binding at lock while drifting. closer look I used a engine support beam to hold everything up while i dropped the stock crossmember out the bottom. It all went pretty quickly but, of course, not without issue. In typical Nissan fashion the engine mount split, though only on the passenger side. It looks like heat from the turbo may have been a factor.

Got the new diff setup at 1110 Engineering and into the car. decided i should really try and clean up the exhaust while i was at it so future leaks are easier to find and hopefully reduce the smell. I also fixed up the varex wiring which had been not used for the last 4+ years. Turns out the varex had been slightly closed all this time Bought some Acostal knuckles with custom Ackerman specs to better suit the use case of the car. These will go from stock (+20°) though to essentially parallel (0°). Some other benefits are: Change of KPI for less camber gain but with more static camber LCA pushed lower from some correction shorter steering arms for a faster ratio VS. stock knuckle test fit The plan will be to get an alignment in the +20° position with the toe set for grip and street duties Then another at +5° with more toe out. This way i should be able to drive to the track then, for drift days, in 20 mins or less swap the ackerman position and adjust the toe (ideally in 0.5 turn increments) for drift. I am also looking at moving the steering rack forwards 25mm. which will also effect ackerman but reduce chance of bind

after a long wait my (not so) overnight from japan parts have arrived!

yeah, having had a 2-way of some description in the car for the last 6-7 years i think i will stick to that configuration. but might even up re-stacking it be be a little gentler if needed. Just waiting on quotes and then we'll see. In the mean time here is some POV drifting on the skidpan. Trying out a new camera angle/setting on the GoPro

For grip i'd agree but for drift the consistency of the rear end behaviour on deceleration is needed. It is...manageable... for grip but does promote understeer or additional rotation on corner entry which is a compromise i'm happy to make so that it works well drifting too

I had a Cusco 1.5-way 4.08 early on, then changed to a Nismo 1.5-way 4.11 and then to a Nismo GT Pro 2-way 4.36. The Nismo GT Pro was the nicest of the lot but i had it set fairly tight so it did end up clunking and carrying on in carparks. I know you can stack the plates on most clutch type LSD's a certain way to effect the engagement. If it was a street only car I might do the nismo again but the advise from someone who builds and services them is that they are not as good as they used to be and not as suitable for my use case as the other options. which KAAZ variant did you get? normal or super Q

Well it has been confirmed that the Nismo 2-way centre is only really good for spares now. I know the half shafts are specific to the Nismo. The person who will be setting up the new diff has recommended: For track KAAZ or Cusco For street OS Giken So I am open to thoughts from people with personal experience with various 2-ways. Considering the main use case of the car is driving to the track, doing a track day drift or grip, then driving home. I am leaning towards the KAAZ normal or Super Q variant.