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About driftmeister

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  • Birthday 03/15/1972

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    ER34 GTT
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  1. Good read.... Coming from a R34GTT...the R35 would be a nice upgrade. Still reading & checking out forums/websites on transmission failures/repairs. Touch wood I wish buying second hand would gives me pleasure as a daily driver instead of rebuilding the transmission & spending it's time in the workshop for repairs. Here in Malaysia, we only get to buy reconditioned cars either from JDM or UK spec. So it's a just pure luck to search for the right one plus most are 2008 batches which is quite worrisome. For 2009/2010, I would need to pay like another AUD$20-30k for it which is not realistic (here we have crazy tax structure for cars which is 1-3 years old). Anyway hope to one day own this monster with basic mods like Cobb Tuning and downpipe/exhaust mods....prabably be grinning from ear to ear. Cheers to all!!
  2. Been using the KU36 for 3 months during weekend blast only. Very grippy and sticky the minute out of the shop crawling as though the power steering assistance loss almost 30% but once on the move that's when you feel the sharp response and great steering feel. Surprising the noise level is rather quiet, sidewall flex at a minimal even when using 9inch width rims with 235/40/18. Since they are semi's the width of the tyre is the same as a 245/40/18 street tyre. Only thing bad about this tyre is quite slippery feeling on the wet when cold, after a few miles driving then the grip would be marginally better. Word of advice, they are better than my RT615 in the dry anytime but not sure how the tyre wear gonna be like.
  3. Go for the KU36, really grippy in the dry but not so in the wet, anyway who drives fast when it rains....
  4. Im using Ku36 all round for my 34GTT for 1 month already. Been very happy after the run-in of the tyre which heats us faster nowadays and gives plenty of dry grip. Although when it starts to rain the tyre will just turn hard and has less grip if it's still cold. Needs some warming up first before the grip returns (slightly better). So far using 235/40/18 (can be mistaken as 245/40/18 that it replaces) all round due to the limited sizes available in my country. Some of my mates is using KU31 is prefer the all rounder grip, but after my previous experience with RT615, I just wanted a better semi's for now with the right price. Btw i always drive very slow in the wet doesn't matter it's street or semi tyres...just safer that way.
  5. Go Kumho KU36, I see you are using the same rims as I am. They looks great on the 34GTR rims and offer tremendous grip...sort of Semi-Slick.
  6. I just changed to Kumho KU36 all round 235/40/18 with 34GTR rims, reason is the width seem almost the same with my previous Falken912 size 245/40/18 which happens to be crap tires after 60% wear. First impression, a lot of grip in the dry and the steering response which used to feel dead has comes alive. This is only my 1st week with it and just try it in the wet...scary when it's cold but once when you warm it up, the grip gets slightly better. Now i wondering what would the optimum tire pressure front & rear bcos my tyre shop guy recommended 35psi front and 38psi rear. Felt too stiff as a daily ride, and usually every weekend I would go for a blast & twisties with my mates but after midnight.
  7. I haven't been driving the car much for the past few weeks, so just last weekend went for a 150km blast with my other skyline mates. Gave it some stick with proper shift up to redline and downshift in the proper rpm for the twisties. The HKS Twins finally felt very grippy again and the gearbox felt less strain to redline, even 1st gear shudder is very much reduce during traffic take-up. Was so close to changing the clutch this week, thank god for the return of HKS grip-style change-up. Anyone knows why and should the Twins be abuse slightly to get back into shape?
  8. Received an offer for a Nismo Twin Plate and Ogura Twins Plate with conversion kit. Im now using a HKS Twins and felt the bite has loss in 3rd gear shift up. Not sure it's due to my driving style which is very conservative and never done any hard launches / burn out. What would you guys reckon should i do : 1) Replace the plates on my existing HKS Twins (2nd sets of plates after bought it secondhand from a mate.). Used for 3 years already. 2) Go Nismo (2nd hand) 3) Go Ogura (2nd hand)
  9. That the power im looking at 350kw, do you think the 3 or 5 puck Exedy can hold that power? Currently using the HKS Twin Plate, due to daily city driving it gets worn out really fast. Not sure because it's on it's 3rd plate change that the pressure plate is not holding it nicely anymore. Btw my driving style is very conservative and have not done any burn ever before.
  10. Im not sure what my mechanic actually did after the rack rebuilt due to the previous leak. Thanks for the advice and will check if any of the hose is block off since im running aftermarket TO4E turbo with top mount manifold. Have a good condition rack to fitted next week which i have actually just paid for today. Suspected the rack gears are worn since i get some free-play and had to tightened the rack after every few months driving. May want to keep the old one as spare, just miss driving a "True Skyline" handling.
  11. This is the first time i know that pressure can be adjusted on the rack other than the screw to tighten the rack gears. Is that the same? I know there was a slight center free play if i loosened it previously but turning is much easier. I have adjustable castor rods, thought of reducing it slightly and loosen the rack to make the handling more nippy. I have a 2nd hand rack on standby but planning to leave that as the last resort. Any suggestion?
  12. Hi Guys Have change all seal in power steering rack and also seal for the pump about 1 year ago. No leak whatsoever and fluid checked seem level all the time. Haven't been driving the car lately other then on weekends. Felt like there is less power assisted when turning and need greater effort when trying to twitch the steering. Anyone know what could be the problem?
  13. Hi All I hv been doing my own tuning (on the road) with wideband & datalogit for the past 1 year. Running a T04E turbo which is quite laggy and will come on full boost at 4.5k rpm. Just wondering to bring up the boost faster whether it would be better to reduce timing on the low load and making it leaner on fueling or should it be another way round. Anybody willing to share map with this kind of setup?
  14. I finally fixed the problem, this was the last resort before i had to rebuilt the steering rack (again) as i recently also changed the tension rod & end to pillow ball. The main culprit is the bearings (2 different type of bearing) at the knuckle which Nissan doesn't list them even on FAST software. You are required to changed the whole knuckle. The car now tracks smoothly and the whole front is feeling tight like a new car. If you hv the same problem like me, most people will overlook this important area. I posted pics of the bearing changed to sealed version instead of original which isn't sealed. There is another bigger bearing (not shown) when removed everything just fall apart, now i got a sealed one too. Hope this help...
  15. Thxs SidneyKid for the feedback. I just wondering whether the PSS9 front height adjustment is sufficient since the GTR shocks is usually shorter. Previously found a 2nd hand unit HKS Hypermax II (GTR spec), fitted it but the front was too low plus after raising the height (springload was compress). That's why from now on I hardly look at GTR spec shocks anymore.
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