driftmeister

Good read.... Coming from a R34GTT...the R35 would be a nice upgrade. Still reading & checking out forums/websites on transmission failures/repairs. Touch wood I wish buying second hand would gives me pleasure as a daily driver instead of rebuilding the transmission & spending it's time in the workshop for repairs. Here in Malaysia, we only get to buy reconditioned cars either from JDM or UK spec. So it's a just pure luck to search for the right one plus most are 2008 batches which is quite worrisome. For 2009/2010, I would need to pay like another AUD$20-30k for it which is not realistic (here we have crazy tax structure for cars which is 1-3 years old). Anyway hope to one day own this monster with basic mods like Cobb Tuning and downpipe/exhaust mods....prabably be grinning from ear to ear. Cheers to all!!

Been using the KU36 for 3 months during weekend blast only. Very grippy and sticky the minute out of the shop crawling as though the power steering assistance loss almost 30% but once on the move that's when you feel the sharp response and great steering feel. Surprising the noise level is rather quiet, sidewall flex at a minimal even when using 9inch width rims with 235/40/18. Since they are semi's the width of the tyre is the same as a 245/40/18 street tyre. Only thing bad about this tyre is quite slippery feeling on the wet when cold, after a few miles driving then the grip would be marginally better. Word of advice, they are better than my RT615 in the dry anytime but not sure how the tyre wear gonna be like.

Go for the KU36, really grippy in the dry but not so in the wet, anyway who drives fast when it rains....

Im using Ku36 all round for my 34GTT for 1 month already. Been very happy after the run-in of the tyre which heats us faster nowadays and gives plenty of dry grip. Although when it starts to rain the tyre will just turn hard and has less grip if it's still cold. Needs some warming up first before the grip returns (slightly better). So far using 235/40/18 (can be mistaken as 245/40/18 that it replaces) all round due to the limited sizes available in my country. Some of my mates is using KU31 is prefer the all rounder grip, but after my previous experience with RT615, I just wanted a better semi's for now with the right price. Btw i always drive very slow in the wet doesn't matter it's street or semi tyres...just safer that way.

Go Kumho KU36, I see you are using the same rims as I am. They looks great on the 34GTR rims and offer tremendous grip...sort of Semi-Slick.

I just changed to Kumho KU36 all round 235/40/18 with 34GTR rims, reason is the width seem almost the same with my previous Falken912 size 245/40/18 which happens to be crap tires after 60% wear. First impression, a lot of grip in the dry and the steering response which used to feel dead has comes alive. This is only my 1st week with it and just try it in the wet...scary when it's cold but once when you warm it up, the grip gets slightly better. Now i wondering what would the optimum tire pressure front & rear bcos my tyre shop guy recommended 35psi front and 38psi rear. Felt too stiff as a daily ride, and usually every weekend I would go for a blast & twisties with my mates but after midnight.

I haven't been driving the car much for the past few weeks, so just last weekend went for a 150km blast with my other skyline mates. Gave it some stick with proper shift up to redline and downshift in the proper rpm for the twisties. The HKS Twins finally felt very grippy again and the gearbox felt less strain to redline, even 1st gear shudder is very much reduce during traffic take-up. Was so close to changing the clutch this week, thank god for the return of HKS grip-style change-up. Anyone knows why and should the Twins be abuse slightly to get back into shape?

Received an offer for a Nismo Twin Plate and Ogura Twins Plate with conversion kit. Im now using a HKS Twins and felt the bite has loss in 3rd gear shift up. Not sure it's due to my driving style which is very conservative and never done any hard launches / burn out. What would you guys reckon should i do : 1) Replace the plates on my existing HKS Twins (2nd sets of plates after bought it secondhand from a mate.). Used for 3 years already. 2) Go Nismo (2nd hand) 3) Go Ogura (2nd hand)

That the power im looking at 350kw, do you think the 3 or 5 puck Exedy can hold that power? Currently using the HKS Twin Plate, due to daily city driving it gets worn out really fast. Not sure because it's on it's 3rd plate change that the pressure plate is not holding it nicely anymore. Btw my driving style is very conservative and have not done any burn ever before.

Im not sure what my mechanic actually did after the rack rebuilt due to the previous leak. Thanks for the advice and will check if any of the hose is block off since im running aftermarket TO4E turbo with top mount manifold. Have a good condition rack to fitted next week which i have actually just paid for today. Suspected the rack gears are worn since i get some free-play and had to tightened the rack after every few months driving. May want to keep the old one as spare, just miss driving a "True Skyline" handling.

This is the first time i know that pressure can be adjusted on the rack other than the screw to tighten the rack gears. Is that the same? I know there was a slight center free play if i loosened it previously but turning is much easier. I have adjustable castor rods, thought of reducing it slightly and loosen the rack to make the handling more nippy. I have a 2nd hand rack on standby but planning to leave that as the last resort. Any suggestion?

Hi Guys Have change all seal in power steering rack and also seal for the pump about 1 year ago. No leak whatsoever and fluid checked seem level all the time. Haven't been driving the car lately other then on weekends. Felt like there is less power assisted when turning and need greater effort when trying to twitch the steering. Anyone know what could be the problem?

Hi All I hv been doing my own tuning (on the road) with wideband & datalogit for the past 1 year. Running a T04E turbo which is quite laggy and will come on full boost at 4.5k rpm. Just wondering to bring up the boost faster whether it would be better to reduce timing on the low load and making it leaner on fueling or should it be another way round. Anybody willing to share map with this kind of setup?

I finally fixed the problem, this was the last resort before i had to rebuilt the steering rack (again) as i recently also changed the tension rod & end to pillow ball. The main culprit is the bearings (2 different type of bearing) at the knuckle which Nissan doesn't list them even on FAST software. You are required to changed the whole knuckle. The car now tracks smoothly and the whole front is feeling tight like a new car. If you hv the same problem like me, most people will overlook this important area. I posted pics of the bearing changed to sealed version instead of original which isn't sealed. There is another bigger bearing (not shown) when removed everything just fall apart, now i got a sealed one too. Hope this help...

Thxs SidneyKid for the feedback. I just wondering whether the PSS9 front height adjustment is sufficient since the GTR shocks is usually shorter. Previously found a 2nd hand unit HKS Hypermax II (GTR spec), fitted it but the front was too low plus after raising the height (springload was compress). That's why from now on I hardly look at GTR spec shocks anymore.

Just bought the Teins Superstreets after using Nismo R-Tunes for 4 years. One word, the Nismo is way much better than the Teins for performance and also probably can handle longer in the track. Teins is very very soft to my liking and cannot seem to understand why it needs 16 settings when anything above 5 clicks (from hardest setting) is way to soft to be considered performance coilovers. Do they really have Bilstein PSS9 for the R34GTT, that would be a nice shocks to invest in....anyone tried them before?

Hi GUys I have used the Front CUSCO Caster for almost 4 years, for almost a year i notice the steering precision has lost, felt like something is loose now and there is always slight twitch when braking (like a counter steer effect). Looking at the caster arms which is already pillow ball, would there be any chance of it giving way? Really trying to solve the wandering feeling...need advice. New coilover set, rebuilt steering rack + new power steering pump, Nismo bushes all round + CUSCO Camber kit all done within the past 1 year period.

I was lucky enough to have a friend adjust the pedal height back up slightly because the HKS Twins naturally release at the very top only, so was my bad for trying to follow other type of clutch kits. Btw how much clamping force and HP can the HD Exedy take before slip happens? I've been to the Exedy website but kinda confuse by the amount of product ranges available.

I suspect that you need to adjust your clutch pedal height cos that's what happen to me when i install new replacement Twin plate for my HKS. Been playing around with the pedal height while using the old clutch plate bcos the grabbing point was too high. The slip will happen on higher revs meaning the clutch is not fully engaged. If yours only slip once or twice then probably the clutch is still ok. Hope this would help you....Cheers!

Hi Guys Im using the HKS Twins on a 34GTT, in traffic you need patience to understand it's ON/OFF habit. Don't let anyone drive it if they are not familiar with it, but one thing makes me wanna keep it is the launch effect and every gear change bite i get on every gear. Im on my second set now, thought of changing to the ORC or Exedy Hyper Single because the traffic situation is getting unbearable. Nismo Coppermix is pricey so that option is out. My target is 400-450hp clutch set that can drive easily for me (or my other half). Which one would you guys recommend?

Then probably the pillowball is on it's way out. For the car to pull on the right has to do with the tension rod or steering rack?

Thanks guys for your feedback. Felt like i bought the wrong shocks for my driving style. Initially i bought the shocks because there were a lot of "clunking" noise in the front, so after checking the shockers found one of the Nismo damper was leaking. Couldn't find a proper place to rebuilt the Nismo, so buying the Teins thinking it would fix the noise problem. However the noise is still there especially on low speed bumps, checked whether there is any tie rod bushing freeplay and did alignment, but everything seem good. My car front handling felt like wanting to steer right when im turning a lefthander, but felt ok if the other way round. Im using both Cusco Pillowball Caster rods and Camber adjustment (been using for 4 years) . Do you think my caster rod is damaged, thought they are tough + longer lasting items compare to bush. Which other parts should i look into to rectify the clunking noise and wandering handling?

Thanks for the feedback. Yes I have the Nismo sway bars fitted. Would that compensate the rolling resistance on the soft damper?

Hi Guys Just wondering whether it's possible to upgrade the springs from the standard Teins SS spring which is around 5kg (front&rear) to the Nismo R-Tunes which are much stiffer around 9kg (front & rear). I find the Teins Ss is way too soft for my taste. Will the damper damage for fitting harder springs?

Just installed the Tein SS, first impression after 1 day drive is they are soft and can be quite unbalanced even when the damping setting are all the same (9 all round). After coming from a stiff coilover setup such as Nismo R-Tunes, it is gonna take some time to adapt to the new Teins. What surprise me is that the Teins front shock is longer and the rear is shorter than my Nismo's. Imagine the ride height adjustment setting is like a reverse on both ends. Now im running 6Front & 8Rear settings. Since im new to Teins product, is it ok to run it harder when new, for instance would the damping loss it's rebound pressure after 6 months of use compare to those who run softer settings when new?. One other thing, my other suspension setup has Cusco Adjustable Camber Pillowball, Cusco Tension Rod, Nismo Anti Rollbar. I thought by getting the Teins (soft spring+damping) would reduce the noise level of the pillowball effect, to my surprise they sound even louder and felt harsher too on low speed. Nothing was loose before the Teins was installed.