Lithium

Impressive - what kind of "GT35R" is it, run of the mill Garrett GT?

Yeah it would be interesting to see how much more it can give if you did that! Not that it sounds like it is that disappointing a drive

Awesome - good luck, again... will be keeping an eye out

Very interested in seeing how the results go! What is your target?

I was working on the theory that it's based off the 52trim 94mm compressor from the GT4094R (~80lb/min), and figured you might make 520-540rwkw before the first tune if it was that compressor. Soaring intake temps at 'only' 24psi isn't normally a good sign for compressor flow, but hopefully it does just turn out to be a really poor intercooler.

Awesome, good luck! Will you upgrade the turbo if it doesn't make much more? I'm still iffy about the compressor in that turbo being able to make a lot more power and interested to see what happens. In regards to the trap speed.. depends on what the cause is of the slower 60ft time... I know people who have gone from 2.2 to ~1.6 and the trap speed hasn't really changed appreciably... I guess see it as being the difference between doing 0-200kph in under 11s, or over 12s

Haha - you know how I took a punt at your power in your build thread and it ended up really close what you actually made? That was because I looked for where I reckoned your motor's flow and the choke line of the compressor would overlap....

I think he is imagining that using a big gate is a way around the back pressure, which is probably a bit hopeful unfortunately.

I have in my head these guys claimed something near 600rwkw for this - but can't find the reference. Can't specifically remember, but it'd have to be pretty up there... sticky tyres and an auto doesn't create the power needed to get a Skyline to over 150mph in 9s flat, that engine is making serious power. Have you hit the dyno again? Have you had new numbers

Very interested to see how that goes - you are in the US? If your car is being tuned on a Dynojet and you are leaning on it then it'll probably go 400rwkw+, 400+kw is not likely on a Dyno Dynamics but Dynojet/Dynapack it'd be doable.

Blargh sorry I was a bit too hasty in my writing and didn't give myself time to give sensible wording - sorry, not your fault it doesn't make sense haha. What I was essentially thinking about when I blurted out that discombobulated stuff - which was half me being bewildered that it is apparently that common for bad results to come if the base isn't good, was that the previous tune should not matter one iota if the current tuner is actually a competent tuner... from what you posted there, there must be a lot of shit tuners out there! When I tune, I adjust things to make everything run the way they should - whether it is a supposed base map/previously tuned car or if I think I am starting from scratch. You have to check EVERYTHING to make sure it's where it should be, and of course I've made (fortunately more trivial than breaking a motor or anything really nasty) boo-boos to learn exactly how much that really matters... basically tuning from a base map might make things slightly easier if the map is close to right for a lot of stuff, it isn't then I'd just anticipate a good tuner to just take longer to tune as more things will clearly be not quite right and need adjusting. But yeah, gotta remind myself to just read and shut up - especially if I don't really have enough time to post in proper English - sorry!

What am I on about? I have no idea

Man that's terrible luck I hope things start going a bit smoother from now on!

The 7670 won't do it, so choice is easy I reckon Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

An EFR7163 on an RB25 would certainly be a very interesting thing. When is your 52-trim GT30R hitting the dyno so we can see the starting point before a comparison? A GT-RS vs EFR7163 vs GT3076R would be very very interesting, actually.

I don't know if ALL the Kando ones are the 16G6 - here is a 16G6+Antisurge housing (which is what we used): http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mitsubishi-3-Turbo-Anti-Surge-Compressor-Housing-Whee-TD05-TD06-16G-EVO3-16G-/281203054581?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item41790217f5

The 18G compressor housing would need to go as well, of course.... so I'd have thought you may as well replace the entire turbo if you are going to go to a 16G. We have run an EVO 16G6 from an actual EVO on an RB20DET and from memory were getting full boost somewhere between 3500 and 4000rpm - was a long time ago. The Kando 16G6 we have on the SR20DET is hitting 18psi by around 3500rpm.

Wow! Looks pretty cool, but pretty intense - I always kindof liked the idea of a low mount setup but after seeing a couple I'd say it'd be a pain if you had to change turbos haha. Out of interest, depending on what brand you go you can get a MASSIVE amount of power out of that size frame - even the 900hp FP3794HTA turbo uses the same housings as you have there, so I am sure inside and outside of the HG range there is plenty to move up to if you end up needing more power than the SS2 can give you. Be good to see results

So reading through all these posts objectively - in summary of straight facts technically the RB26 is not a bad donk but the RB30 is still equal or better at virtually everything, however when it comes down to taste some people like the way the RB26 sounds over the RB30. I guess what that means is the RB30 is clearly better but you can't knock anyone for wanting to stay with the RB26

Very nice - is it an RB30? Surprised the T04Z was maxing out that early... what hotside are you running? Either way, 6466 will potentially improve both spool and power - be awesome to see an overlay if you do the upgrade, and are able

I know a few people who have gone from RB26 to RB30 in track cars, and they have all ended up going quicker - I haven't mentioned any of them because going to an RB30 (or even an RB28 really) is usually part of a list of things often done when someone is taking it to the next level, and I anticipate the natural (and understandable) comments that the time reduced, or at least a certain amount of it can be attributed to the other bits. The fact it is normally part of the "taking it to the next level" bit has to be worth something, though.

Cheers. Wow, that's not a very nice fuel map - I'm not sure who your tuner is but my confidence is not high that they are on top of everything. The "not nice" about it isn't due to them working around an issue, it looks more like they've just been plugging numbers to try and get the right AFR and power curve on the dyno... whenever you can see what cells the engine runs through on the dyno (look at the yellowish cells amongst the sea of green - full boost in the area of 4000rpm) and then have leaner cells at higher loads, as well as richer cells in the same area. Run that car at any different boost level, or just drive it different to what happened on the dyno and the AFRs would be interesting. The fuel map looking like that makes it a bit hard to be sure of what to read into it, it'd be easier to tell what was happening if you could trust the numbers are representative of what the engine is doing, but at a glance it doesn't necessarily look like the engine is choking on some restriction - could be an issue with the actual tuning, whether it be the tuner or if there is some issue with the ECU determining crank angle.

Here's a clip of that Supra with the Super99 HTZ doing an 8.95 @ 152mph off the foot brake with a Powerglide (no trans brake use allowed in the street class it was racing in). It has since done an 8.75 using the transbrake at an event the following weekend - trap speeds aren't much higher, but it is out of gear in the top end so needs a higher final drive to knock the trap speeds up now. Probably worth mentioning the car races on radials too, apparently. I remember being told a Supra would never go sub 9s with a T3 turbo - I guess they may have been right, this Supra pretty much skipped the 9s and went straight into the 8s

That is a very average looking timing map, very soft up high and not really (well from memory) that soft down in the low rpm. Put up the fuel map too - that should give a reasonable sign of if there is a restriction. Only time I've ever had to do anything like that was with a car which had really erratic trigging, and I just put numbers in there to keep the car runnable and as far as possible away from knock while the cause for the triggering issue.

Awesome, looking forward to hearing how it goes now