ty.tomlinson

I had the exact same problem with my dash. Good luck finding any pinouts because I didn't lol. But I have managed to get the tacho and voltmeter working and have pretty much sorted out the temperature and oil pressure gauges. I don't think the colours will be the same so I won't bother with that but I will tell you the process I used to get mine going. To get the voltmeter working you have to make sure the engine bay fusebox has a direct link to the battery and that all fuses are good. Also would be a good time to check all your internal relays and fuses are getting power and are good. For me this was just plug and play. This should also fire up all your lights and other ancillaries (possibly your windows/door locks too). Just realised that GTS-T's don't have voltmeters and can't help you with the boost gauge mine doesn't have one but the voltmeter thing might be helpful for someone else. To get the other stuff going, firstly remove your gauge cluster. Tacho: See what colour the tachometer cable is (mine is yellow/red trace), I'm pretty sure if you follow the line that is marked TACH or TM (can't quite remember) you should find it. It pops out in one of the body harnesses on the left hand side by the computer. You connect that to the tachometer output from your ECU. Don't connect it to any input or anything random like that because it screws up the signal. I'm guessing you have an aftermarket ECU, so you might want to get a pinout for that to make it easier. Oil pressure: Locate your sender, it is in a bit of a wanky place under the plenum to the left of the filter. There are two senders under there and it is the one which is the furtherest away from the filter. It only has one post. Then suss out what colour the wire to the line marked OIL is on your gauge cluster. This wire will pop out on one of the harnesses connected to the side of the fusebox in the firewall. Connect the two together. Make sure you don't get the sensor which has two posts because it sends information to your ECU. This should get the oil pressure gauge working. Temperature: Locate your sender as per #2 in the picture in this link. Swap this out for the standard r32 sender from your old engine because the neo one won't work with the cluster. Trace the wire connected to on the ECU loom to the left kick panel (assuming you have standard loom). This is the only gauge I haven't got working yet because I don't have the sender. I am then assuming you will need to work out which line on the back of the cluster is the 12v positive for the temperature gauge (correct me if I am wrong) and run this to the sender. When I looked there were about three of them and I got a bit confused. I'm no auto sparkie but I've managed to wire the car up with the standard neo loom and that is the only thing I haven't worked out haha. There isn't much info on wiring for Neo's and this is from my own experience so hope it helped. Cheers.

This is a walk-through for anyone who is attempting to wire a standard RB25DET Neo into an R32 4-Door Non-Turbo Skyline. The car that I have done the conversion on is a Skyline GTE - (Manual RB20E). This walk-through will work to a tee with this car but I cannot guarantee it will work with any others. Although I would not be surprised if it worked on other cars with an RB20E or RB20DE - if someone could confirm this it would be good. It is also assumed you have already removed the previous engine and wiring loom and have installed the complete engine, standard loom, and sensors from the RB25DET Neo. This is primarily a wiring guide as there are plenty of other tutorials floating around for engine and accessories installation. It will be broken into several different stages as I am still working on a couple of things. Also, if there are questions you have regarding anything else please don't hesitate to ask because I am going from memory on this one.

Cheers man, if I hadn't butchered my loom over the last week that would have been the company I was looking for! However, I have pretty much solved all my problems now with a bit of persistence and a few blown fuses . I will definitely get onto writing up a tutorial on how to do it as soon as I make sure everything is running properly for road use. I don't want to do it now because there might be some little things that will pop up and ruin my life that I am yet to discover. I think a month or two of road use will reveal these problems (if any). I don't know how many countries have the random JDM variants of Skyline we have over here in NZ (mine is a 1990 GTE) so I might just be posting a tutorial for a niche market but after months of sifting through various forums and sorting the crap from the truth I think I owe it to the community to put something back in .

Meh, want to keep it all standardish. I think I will just work out what goes to where, then write up a guide for anyone else who wants to do it.

Hey man, nice ride. Am doing the same conversion but struggling like hell with the wiring. My headlights are stuck on full but aren't actually working, window wipers don't work, can't get the alternator to work, the list goes on - in fact the only thing working properly are the stereo, the heaters and the engine! At the rate I am going I would have rewired an entire new loom when I'm finished. Can't seem to find any wiring diagrams for my R32 4-Door GTE that I am working with either as it is a rare JDM base model piece of crap, should have gone with a GTS-T or GTS-4 instead. Who did you get to do up your loom - because I would be keen to just rip it all out and send both my looms to someone and get it all done by someone who knows whats up? Cheers Tyron

Wow, I am glad to have found a current thread where someone has actually done the same conversion I am doing! Nice ride man, looks like you have spent heaps of time on it. What I would be interested to find, is where you got wiring diagrams for the R32 that aren't for the GT-R? I have a Skyline GTE which is a base model JDM rare as hell version that came with an RB20E haha. Pretty sure the wiring is similar to everything but the GT-R but I can't find anything anywhere and its doing my head in!! Also, if it isn't too much of a hassle, do you know whether there is meant to be a solid red light on the side of the ECU like other models of Nissan or not. I am pretty sure I have wired mine up properly but it has no light on the side. Am also having a few dramas with the fuel system that I can't seem to work out as well.

Sorry to bring up such an old thread but if anyone could answer my questions, I would be infinitely grateful. I have pretty much followed this conversion tutorial to a tee. I have an RB25DET Neo with a Mines ECU from a Stagea transplanted into my r32 GTE Skyline. I'm pretty sure everything is working fine but can't tell because I can't get fuel to the engine. Not too privy on wiring or anything and am only doing it myself because I can't pay anyone to touch the damn thing! I have a standard in tank fuel pump out of an r33 RB25DET Skyline that I have put into my r32. I have wired pin 13 from the ECU (Fuel Pump Relay Control Signal) to the standard r32 relay via one of the wiring harnesses under the dash. On ignition, the fuel pump relay clicks and you can hear the fuel pump working but it is extremely quiet. It also is not pumping fuel through to the engine. Even my friend's standard sr18 Bluebird's fuel pump is louder. I figured it may be that all the fuel leaked out of the lines during the conversion and there is some hell air bubble in there or something stopping the fuel from being pushed through. Or maybe I just have it hooked up completely wrong via the ECU? I have no idea. I know there is a dropping resistor that controls the voltages and may be interfering? Does anyone have suggestions/answers as to why this may be happening? Also, is there supposed to be a solid red light on the ECU as there are on some other models of Nissan? Because mine does not show a light at all. Cheers