Jump to content
SAU Community

Sammy

Members
  • Posts

    168
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

About Sammy

  • Birthday 01/20/1988

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://

Profile Fields

  • Car(s)
    Nissan s13 Silvia RB20

Recent Profile Visitors

4,203 profile views

Sammy's Achievements

Collaborator

Collaborator (7/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. Thanks for the replies guys appreciated BenSm: Absolutely. Cost all up was about $50 for the three silicon pieces, $30 for 2 metres of 1.6mm 316L stainless (we had to buy it in 6-metre lengths though), and the cooler was bought off a forum for $80. The steel used for making the brackets was just lying around, but is very cheap. I guess if you want the full price you also have to factor in cost of consumables, gas, filler wire, cutting discs etc. So basically the whole project was able to be done for around ~$200 The intercooler measurements on the box were 550 x 230 x 65. It had 2.5" inlet/outlet, which suited the standard piping perfectly. If i was doing it again, i would definitely do it using a cooler like an XR6T unit that already has a 180 degree bend at one end, or something like this: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SKYLINE-R32-RB20-IN...rts_Accessories Having that bend would save hours and hours. blaq.boi: Yes it was all fused, but i had a length of filler wire in the other hand for that exact reason heh. Every time you stop and start without it, it leaves a pinhole, so i just made sure to do a little dab every time i backed off the trigger. And my method for making the lobsters is preeeeetty basic haha. I used a dropsaw, set the angle to 7-10 degrees. I draw two lines going down the pipe (one on one side of the pipe, another on the opposite side) Then i basically make a cut on one of the lines, spin the piping 180 degrees over, measure approximately 4cm down the pipe, then make another cut. You can then continue doing this over and over and you end up with heaps of little lobster cuts that are all FAIRLY similarly sized, within a mm or three. I now have a small box of unused lobster cuts, because i got a bit carried away haha. I hope that makes sense, i'm teh shit at explaining some things. And thankyou very much for your kind words
  2. Yes i have another of the rear - it's an external housing And the yellowy/white stuff on the manifold flange is some leftover masking tape - i have kept the turbo sealed up to stop any dust/debris getting in it
  3. Hi guys, i have a few bits and pieces for sale from a project that didn't go ahead. Item 1. Garrett GT35R, 0.82 rear housing. It was supplied by GCG turbos, and has done a few thousand k's, and is in great condition. Item 2. Exedy Hyper Single. Push type, suits RB20, RB25, and early RB26 motors/boxes. BRAND NEW. Item 3. Recaro SR3 seat. Includes seat rail to suit R32/R33's. Item 1. $1200 Item 2. $850 Item 3. $450 Located in brisbane, QLD Contact me here, or 0423 766 972. I am happy to post anything (at your cost) .. the seat i would prefer pickup only, just cause it's hard to post.
  4. Hey guys, Just thought i'd share a little project i did for a mate over the weekend, if you don't like or .. anything really, then feel free to talk up, i handle criticism well. I am not a welder or a mechanic, they're both just hobbies i that i try my best not to be dodgy at. The project was fairly simple: make an intercooler kit for a stock R32 GTS-T, using no more than 2 metres of straight stainless, and silicon pieces we had lying around (2 x 90's, 1 x 45, 1 x straight). I also wasn't allowed to cut any extra holes in the body, and the reo couldn't be touched. This basically left me with only one way to do it - return-flow intercooler kit. Now i know there will be LOTS of hate for all the lobster cuts - yes they were time consuming, but we could only use what we had then and there, and we didn't have any bends - not that you could buy any that have a tight enough radius for what we needed anyway. Pictures are more fun than words, so yeah: These are basically the three pipes required for the whole thing. Not pictured is a 15cm straight section we also used. All of the pipes got some little weld beads put on the end to stop the piping from popping off. Unfortunately i didn't take any photos - my bad. Due to the weight of stainless, the long section of pipe required me to weld a bracket that bolted to one of the factory holes in the body. This bracket also helps keep the piping from touching the body of the car and the intercooler (there was probably less than 5mm space either side of the pipe with it running behind the cooler). Once the front-bar was back on, the silicon pieces and pipe were unable to be seen. If the cooler was completely black, you'd hardly tell it was there. Looks virtually stock! Sorry i didn't get more pictures of the finished job; it was late and VERY cold by the time we finished. The kit works well; there appears to be a noticeable improvement in power, but most importantly it still looks standard to the po-lice. I'm suprised the japanese brands have steered away from these types of kits, especially since they aren't destructive in any way and are completely reversible, but i guess they have to keep up with trends(?). I hope you enjoyed reading/looking, or were inspired somewhat to maybe make your own. Love, Seamus (and Sam)
  5. Hot-tank is just a strong caustic solution. Pure caustic powder/soda can be bought at your local supermarket. Cold-tank i'm unsure of, but can't be caustic because it would turn alloy into a lovely poisonous gas/sludge. I'd say it would be a solvent of some variety that's fairly PH neutral, like degreasers in a can.
  6. I've only seen one in australia, and it was on ae86drivingclub. Also give toymods forum a go. You will have a tough time finding one, best bet would be to import one.
×
×
  • Create New...