Jump to content
SAU Community

Dragondan25

Members
  • Posts

    8
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Profile Fields

  • Car(s)
    R33 GTST
  • Real Name
    Dan

Recent Profile Visitors

912 profile views

Dragondan25's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

  • Reacting Well Rare
  • First Post
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later
  • One Year In

Recent Badges

1

Reputation

  1. I know this is an ancient thread but it was helpful with my issue blowing fuel pump fuses. I had replaced my pump which had seized up but when I tested it the fuse blew straight away. Did some testing with multi meter and following the wiring diagram. Ended up being the FPCM having an internal short causing it. Fuel pump and fuses worked happily with the FPCM unplugged, even took it for drive. Got another FPCM and tested the pins to confirm not shorted, plugged it in and it is working fine.
  2. How did you go with this? Interested in what it cost as I have an imported FX50 that needs Aussie maps
  3. Check the metal of the guard where the grommets go through. I found the metal was deformed which meant the grommets sat low and created the gap when the bumper is screwed on. Grabbed a pair of pliers and straightened the metal, gap is gone.
  4. Give IACV a thorough clean then. There is a diy on how to here in the forum. I did that on mine and had an improvement to idle stability but the plumb back was the big winner for me. I also have my idle set a bit higher than factory, around 900 rpm
  5. Does it have a vent to atmosphere blow off valve? Mine did when I got it and it caused with stalling. Installed a plumb back one and happy days.
  6. Pull your gauge cluster out and reflow(melt) the solder on all the circuit joints on the back of the tachometer. Worked perfectly for mine a few years ago and hasn't played up since.
  7. Hi Tarmac, do you still have the Whiteline bushes and the Bee*r front pipe?
×
×
  • Create New...