White-R33

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I am interested also in a trade or trade + cash for a lesser car Let me know what youve got or are interested in swapping.

Also... the radiator has been upgraded at the time of the engine swap. and the fuel pump was upgraded to a bosch 070. You'll see that the clutch etc, was also upgraded on the list of additions on original post.

Yes, the DET gearbox was put in. The brakes are the same as before, they are more than adequate, decent size four wheel disks. They never fail to pull me up quickly... It's not like there's a massive difference between the stock 187kw you get from the turbo motor, to the 152kw you get from the N/A motor... 30kw does not warrant a brake upgrade. They are a 4 stud hub, and take the same mags as a silvia or the likes. I have the turbo brakes, I was going to sell the seperately, but if someone wants them with the car, then no problems... but I wouldnt ever bother putting them on.

boing

Forgot to add... I also have an Apexi twin chamger blow off valve that isnt on the car, but the buyer can have that aswell.. ive never put it on, but apparently they are loud? it has three settings, and retails for about 500 bucks

Gday, ***UPDATE PICS ADDED*** Time to sell my toy... Bought a house and time for toys is over ! White, 2 door R33 coupe with the following : GReddy Turbo Timer GReddy Profec B Electronic boost controller Exclusive Line 17" x 8" mags (made in Germany) JUN side skirts JUN rear bar Bomex medium sized wing Trial front bar New 5 puk heavy duty clutch Bosch 070 Fuel pump X-Force 3 inch dump pipe X-Force 3 inch full exhaust Racing spec stainless cat convertor (legal) K&N oversized pod air filter Stainless 5 inch muffler (throaty RB sound) BESTEX lowered springs from Japan KYB super gas shocks (great on the bends) new castor rods and bushes AutoMeter boost gauge Pioneer CD player Power steering, climate control, cent locking, electric windows NGK plugs gapped at 0.6mm (never mis fires ever garunteed!!) Immobiliser ALWAYS serviced every 5,000 - 7,000 kms with only mobil 1 motor oil and red line gear and diff oil Only EVER used BP ultimate 98 RON fuel, nothing else This car has had a full conversion (full motor swap) from non-turbo to turbo. The conversion was done by Full Throttle Performance (Ray) 14 months ago. The motor that he put in was a series 2 turbo, from a black 96 r33 turbo. When the motor was put in, it had done 34,600kms. Since the conversion i have done at least 20,000kms and looked after the motor. the boost controller is never set above 10 PSI. I will list every single little thing thats wrong with this car, as I believe in an open and honest sale. 1.) The front bar has 4-5 large cracks in it. It is made of fiberglass and one morning i started my car, after my girlfriend had driven it, and it was in gear. (i never leave it in gear) and bang... straight into the carport wall, cracked in a few places from stress... but still looks fine if you were to pass it on the street. I have a quote for 350 to bog it up and respray it, you may want to replace the front bar maybe though. 2.) There is a sratch down to the metal on the roof from when i was moving house. I tied a metal coffee table to the roof and the cushioning came loose from underneath it.. causing a scratch that i have been quoted $200 to touch up. its not huge, just one one side, about 10-15cm, and about 3 of them. 3.) The tint on the left hand side passenger door needs replacing. It is peeling away badly, however the other side is perfect. The quote i had for this is $65 4.) The rear right hand side indicator has a bit of the corner plstic cracked off and there is a dent, with the paint scraped off, just next to the indicator about 5cm accross, and about 2-3cm deep inwards. The indicator inside is in perfect order, and works. the outside plastic needs to be replace and teh dent pulled out and resprayed over. I have been quoted $550 (you could do a lot better though im sure, the dent it small) 5.) the vacuum hose in the boost gauge needs to be replaced. its plastic and it has cracked because i tried to move the boost gauge without unplugging it. you can get this from repo or supercheap for about 5 bucks and set it up again. the boost gauge works, but is not accurate with the air leaking. Nothing else is wrong with this car. the motor etc is in perfect working order and has nver ever missed a beat. The reason i havent fixed these things before sale is id rather just sell it now instead of messing about getting these things done, and I've put a lower price on it after taking these things into consideration. I am down in bunbury, western australia, but im up in perth with the car sometimes. If you are serious, email me. or contact 0408 932 147 I have pictures, if you would like them, send me your email address. [email protected] The price is $15,300 ono Thanks.

Contact me on this forum, through PM or email me at [email protected]

HI I'm chasing a left hand side rear indicator... From what I can make out, it's attached to the two tail lights on the left hand side, and comes as one large section. Anyone wrecking an R33 (preferrablly WHITE) - please let me know. Thanks :rave:

boing

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www.wolfems.com has most of the info. this system controls the same variables as the power FC and the power gains are the same. this one is a bit cheaper and has a lifetime warranty. controls boost fuel, air, ignition, timing, blah blah, the lot.