Jazzadub

So the PPG 1-4 with the billet mainshaft and billet sandwich plate will be a pretty bulletproof setup for up to 1000hp?

I guess I can always change the housing if need be, but I'm pretty sure the 1.05 will do me for now. Any recommendations on what I can do with the gearbox? I'm sure with my luck it will break pretty quickly at the new power level, if I keep it stock. I was considering a 1-4 or 1-5 helical dog gear kit from PPG, however once you add on the billet mainshaft and billet sandwich plate it gets expensive really fast, especially considering I would have to pay GST again on top of that! Does anyone know if the billet sandwich plate is really needed? Another option I was looking at, which is more local to me, is this: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/gearboxes/auction-1546714929.htm?rsqid=a95b22b0506842ddbe40b7846d38df8c It's straight cut dog box 3rd/4th, with stock helical synchro 1st, 2nd and 5th It would end up being cheaper than the PPG option, however it could be weird retaining synchro on 1st and 2nd? Anyone got any ideas?

No worries! This is what I've decided to go with at the moment: RIPS Forged RB30 Short Block Sinco RB26/30 Turbo Manifold Turbosmart 60mm Wastegate Xspurt 1600cc Injectors EFR9180 Turbo Already put a deposit down on the block and purchased the turbo manifold! Currently deciding what I do with the head. Tossing up between the following Kelford camshafts: I want early spool as it's a big turbo, wide powerband, drivable, low maintenance, reliable. 182-E 280 10.5mm Good for 3.0L, could be too aggressive and lose bottom end? 182-S 272mm 10.5mm Good for E85 182-C 272 10mm Good for quick spool up, but would it be ok with a 3.0L?

Interesting option, but if I go single, I don't want to compromise. I'm just wondering if the RB26/30 + GT2860R-9 combination would be usable for a few months, allowing me to attend track days etc. while I continue saving for a full turbo replacement etc.

I think long term I will go for a EFR9180 1.05 A/R However, in the short term, I am wondering how well the RB30 would work with the GT2860R-9 turbos? I imagine it will come on boost earlier, however it will run out of puff earlier as well, and we would need to make sure the turbos didn't overspeed? Any thoughts?

OK, bad news. Cylinders 1 & 5 compression tested at 60psi... They are going to be bore scoped today, but it's probably cracked ringlands - the pistons are stock RB26. Why oh why didn't I forge the damn thing from the beginning! Anyway, this is happening sooner than I would have liked, but as the engine needs to come out, I might as well go RB30 with a single. EFR8374 A/R 1.05 still a good choice? Twin 38mm, or 44mm gates?

Ahh cool. I guess I'll see if it lessens over time. Do you think the catch can itself could do with a clean? It doesn't have internal access but I have a lot of ethanol I could soak it in?

Thanks. I hope it is just normal breathing as the compression was tested recently. The amount of vapour only really became noticable when I cleaned the catch can filters. Do you think I should oil the filters? I have some K&N filter oil. Perhaps that would stop the oil vapour passing the filters and keep it in the catch longer so it can condense? I might clean them again and give that a try..

But in essence you think the amount of vapour could be normal, it's just not being condensed back in to oil correctly? Or potentially the turbo oil returns have become blocked or restricted?

Thanks I will check that link. It hasn't always done this, so I don't think it is a design issue. It's a RIPS catch can with two feeds from rear of rocker cover, and two drains back in to sump. There is a 1.2mm oil feed restrictor in the head also.

Thanks, will have to get that sorted one day. Anyone got any more ideas regarding the blow by? Maybe it just needs more time running after the oil change or something?

It has had the JB weld put on it, but it probably wasn't cleaned up that good. You mean like a wheel sanding disc or something?

Nope, not that I am aware of. And I frequently check that the coolant system is topped up and bled correctly. Why do you ask? ... I have to do that because there is a hairline crack in the coolant jacket on the passenger side of the block Really really slow leak, but it's a massive pain because I run Evan's waterless coolant, and that shit's not cheap. Really need to figure out a permanent way to fix that ...

@Dose Pipe Sutututu Just checked my records and valve stem seals were done when the head was reconditioned about 7300kms ago? Also, I don't think I am seeing any blue smoke out the exhaust. I think the only smoke out the exhaust is from fuel; when it's running rich for any reason, backfiring etc.

@Dose Pipe Sutututu Don't worn valve steam seals usually cause oil burn in exhaust? How would it cause excessive vapour from the catch can? Oil leaking in to cylinder and then oil fumes passing rings in to crankcase?