Blipman

Thanks everyone, I'm taking a deposit today so this car has been SOLD.

For sale is a very low mileage Nissan Cefiro turbo. This is possibly one of the lowest mileage Ceffy's in Australia, I'm selling it on behalf of my 68 year old mum who has owned it for the last 15 years so it's probably the least thrashed Cefiro in Australia as well. Mileage is 70,000km with paperwork to back it up. The interior and mechanicals are that of a car that has averaged under 2,500km per year, the body however has some hail damage and the price has been adjusted accordingly, otherwise the asking amount would be close to double. It's surprisingly fast, aside from keyless entry and a CD stacker it's completely standard. Vehicle is a 1988 Nissan Cefiro (A31) SE turbo auto in Melbourne. Sale price is $4,900. Please call 0410 334 407, I am unlikely to respond here or to direct messages.

I haven't got any pics that accurately show the engine out of the car at the moment (I have pics of it when it was in the car etc), if there are specific shots you need let me know and I can take them.

Free shipping to anywhere in Vic.

Injectors are sold. Engine WILL be sold with standard injectors included.

Selling parts left over after RB30 conversion. Location is Melbourne. - Apexi Power FC including hand controller for RB25: $1,100. Used but in perfect condition - Sard 550cc injectors (yellow with blue spacer collars): $450. Used but pretty new, no problems. - RB25DET engine (R33 s1). $1,500. 125,000km. Engine has Tomei 1.5mm metal head gasket, timing belt and 100k service have been done. Includes ex manifold but no turbo, no PS or aircon pump, no coil packs. No injectors unless you buy the Sard's I'm selling also. Engine is healthy and never gave me any problems, only removed due to RB30 conversion. Please email [email protected] Ben

But this head and this block were already mated together and in a car previously. If this step had to be done it would have been already, yet there's nothing I can see in the back of the head that has been changed or anything tapped in there.. More confusing, it looks like my head HAS been modified to allow oil to the VTC, you can see the braided line here which supplies oil since the RB30 block doesn't have this. So the oil is getting in, how the hell is it then getting out? Everything points to the conversion being done properly and the engine I've got is complete, but still that T-piece on the turbo return line has me stumped. Ben

I'm currently swapping an already built and previously installed RB30 with RB25 head engine into my R33, there is a T-piece on the RB30 engine near the turbo oil return line that isn't on my original RB25 block, what is it for? See pics This is the T'd piece on the RB30 block More pics, it's at the bottom and slightly to the rear of centre And this is the same point on the oroginal RB25 block, no T-piece What is this for? In this particularly well written article about RB30 conversion here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/post-a132205- it says "The R33 RB25 also requires you to plumb in an external head oil return, you can T in to the turbo drain" which sounds like what was done with the RB30 engine I have, but I can't for the life of me work out where this T-piece is supposed to plumb into on the head! Any ideas? Ben

Does anyone know what injectors are these on an engine I'm putting in? (RB25 head). I've never seen blue spacers like these before: Also can anyone identify these yellow injectors on my current engine? They did 250rwkW at about 65% duty cycle so I'm guessing the are pretty hefty. Trying to decide which of the two to keep. Ben

I'll be doing an engine swap in my R33 GTS25t soon, I have an RB30 bottom end/RB25 head combo to fit in. The new engine doesn't have accessories, clutch, flywheel or injectos so I have to swap all of these parts over. What wearable items (e.g. injector o-rings) should I be replacing while doing this either because they are likely damaged in the swap or because it's good preventative maintenance practice? Any mods or checks that are easily done while the engine's out that aren't while it's in? And aside from flywheel bolt torque specs that I've seen in the DIY section, are there any other bolt torques that it's critical I get right? Finally I plan to lift the engine and gearbox attached out of the top of the engine bay, I assume it'll all fit. Thanks in advance.

The problem is the airbags. The 5 has neither a passenger nor driver's airbag, both are required for 1998 and later models. On the 6 airbags were optional for the RS's (don't quote me on that, I've simply seen RS's both with and without), and I think from 7 onwards the RS's had dual airbags but again not 100% on that, I've never really looked.

The first and last car of those links are 2.0L models which is why they are so cheap, they are not eligile for import, you can only bring in 2.5L models. The bayside blue car if a good vehicle is VERY good value, you'll usually pay a premium for series 2 and a big premium for that colour, so I would normally expect a car like that to be quite expensive. I would recommend staying away from Trade Carview, 9 times out of 10 the cars are of poor quality, the sellers don't even own them and can't send more pics or info, or other problems. If you're after a cheap car I'd recommend sourcing one from auction as that's where prices will tend to be the best. $12k for a manual coupe including rego and everything I think is going to be a bit tough, you can do it but the quality of cars might be a bit low at that budget. For a iptronic auto I'd say absolutely no problem.

Import duty is 5% as of January even for MA category Phil

Doubling the price is a little bit simplistic but in the case of a $12,000 car is probably about right, a very rough rundown of the costs involved for a $12,000 landed and complied R34 would be: Purchase pice of the car: 480,000 yen FOB / $5,900 Service fee of a broker if using one: $1,000 Shipping, customs and wharf costs: $1,900 Import duty: $300 GST: $700 Compliance: $2,200 Total: around $12,000 landed and complied, plux new tyres and registration. For that sort of money you could probably only afford a non turbo coupe in good condition, a turbo would probably be out of your budget.

I spend so much of my time having to educate people and basically fight to correct all of the incorrect stuff they have learned on forums, from what in this case is just a case of people making very broad statements based on pretty minimal information (not that bad) right up to things that are just plain outright wrong. It's tiring... I would have so much more time if I wasn't always fighting the misinformation people pick up from forums, posted by people who make firm, difinitive statements about things that are unknown or that they have no real experience with. If this particular car has had a rough life fine I don't care, it's not mine and since all I did was pluck some photos and info from the dealer maybe it has, I haven't yet been in contact with them to find out more since it's not a car that anyone is looking to buy. To make any judgements on it's condition or mileage based on frankly a near complete absence of facts is totally misleading though. What other people will pick up from this conversation is: - worn shiftknob = 176,000km. - scratches to console = rough life Think about it, that's what you guys have implied here. If people think hard about that of course the above is not true, but that's what has been implied and will be in people's heads after reading this, and then one day I'll have to deal with someone who has picked all this info up and files it under fact in their head, and that could be after they've gone and told 50 other people. So much bad and untrue information is around and for no reason. Based on those two above points (and I still don't think there's actually any wear to the knob) are we saying that that's enough to constiture a hard 76,000m? 95% of 76,000km, 10 year old cars will have some sort of imperfections like that, so 95% of them have had a hard life? And that's not to mention that anyone who's sat in a lot of R34's knows that scratches to that soft plastic of the console is not uncommon. Example: I had a customer who was looking at either importing a Chaser or buying one from a dealer in Melbourne. Actually from what he told me the car with the Melbourne dealer sounded really sweet and was at a good price, so I actually said that it was probably worth buying as in this case importing one similar wouldn't be any better. He got on a forum, heard about how every imported car had wound back mileage (ie total garbage), he got cold feet and a week later he bought a local Falcon. A FALCON! That's what bad information from people who didn't know what they were talking about got him instead of happily buying a really sweet Chaser. A Falcon. Think about it, could you live with that on your conscience? I'm not having a go at you guys as you've just stated your opinion and that's cool, I don't greatly care about this car as it was just to show an example, the truth is none of us knows what condition it's in at this point since no one's sought more info. But I'm asking people to think about what they post and making firm, unequivocal statements when realistically there's no way to do so, it just contributes to the huge pool of unreliable information out there.

I wouldn't say so necessarily. It's hard to see from that photo how much where there is (could be none depending on the lighting), even if you assume the worst from the pic that's not unusually high wear for 76,000km. It will vary a lot on the car, for example my R33 had low mileage when I imported it backed up with complete service records, everything was mint inside and out except for the shift knob which was disgusting... the stitching had started to fray and you could see the plastic underneath, it was horrible. And that's a car with records. Likewise sometimes you'll see high mileage cars and the interior is just perfect. When looking at a car one normally has to take all of the evidence and little tell-tale signs into account, to judge the mileage of a car based on just one aspect is rarely accurate... for example have a look at that shift boot... it's perfect and that almost always goes before the shift knob does.

Since the only imperfections visible in the photos are some scratches to the console I find that statement a little hard to swallow. By all means enlighten us as to how you can tell that.

Ricky shoot me an email at [email protected] so I've got your email address, and we can go from there.

Hmm let's see, for Sydney around $1,000 for registration and stamp duty, and around $400 for new tyres and up if needed. There might be a couple of hundred in transport within Australia but actually I allowed $2,500 for my original estimate for compliance and frankly that's not hard to beat these days ($2,200 is not hard to get for an R34) so maybe on road about $15,500 let's say. If the car needs other work done that would be additional but it's common for that not to be needed.

At $20k you'd want it to be pretty good! When you're after something a bit rare and specific (has to be silver) that can make it a little tricky in Austrlia, if importing you'd have a lot more choice and I think around $15k is a good figure to work with, Here's an example from a used car dealer in Japan, and there would be more to choose from at auction. 2000 Nissan Skyline 25GT coupe 2,500cc non turbo engine 5 speed manual 76,000km Silver No major accident history Power steering Power windows Climate control CD player Dual airbags ABS brakes Factory 17 inch wheels 598,000 yen FOB, or around $14,100 landed and complied.

Ugh Tradecar View! Don't even get me started! I'll tell you about it when your email is up and running.... Yes sorry our site is down at the moment, it was hacked and we lost everything. New site is almost done, I desperately want to announce a release date but I'm sure it'll end up being wrong and make a liar out of me, but it's close!

Hey Mitch, The Active LSD only operates at the rear and controls power sent to the left and right wheels, so it's different to the centre diff on say an STi. When you put power to the rear wheels the LSD detects if one wheel is spinning faster than the other, and then the computer alters locks up the diff via hydraulic pressure to try and take power away from the wheel which is spinning and send it to the one which isn't, thus improving traction. The Active LSD has nothing to do with the 4WD system and in fact the Active LSD was an option on RWD R33 GTS25t's... I remember we imported one of these for a customer and he used to call it the drift light, because whenever the car got sideways the Active LSD would do it's best to help by locking up and the little A-LSD light would light up on the dash That's not to say that the GTR doesn't have centre diff control. It has the ATESSA ET-S system which via computer control determines how much power is sent to the front or rear of the car (the V-Spec has the improved ATESSA ET-S Pro computer) to maximize traction, and in fact a GTR starts out as mostly a RWD and then power is only sent to the front wheels when the computer detects it is needed. This is why the GTR doesn't have painful understeer like some 4WD's that have less intelligent front/rear power control. Learning a lot today aren't we! Converting a regular GTR to a V-Spec would be very difficult indeed as you're talking computers and sensors as well as mechanical components. If you'd like to talk to us about finding one shoot me an email at [email protected] and we can talk about what you're after.

Hi Mitch, The V-Spec is a relatively minor upgrade to a regular GTR (you don't get any more power, for example), it had additional rake ducts and diffusers, an active rear LSD, improved 4WD computer programming, stiffer suspension, a lower ride height, and intercooler and exhaust gas temperature probes for display on the diagnostic display monitor in the cabin. There is also a V-Spec 2 which is a V-Spec but with carbon fibre bonnet (with NACA duct) and larger rear brake disks. Pricing for a GOOD condition GTR (we're actually starting to see some rough ones now, sadly) is around the mid 40's landed and complied at the moment if using an import broker such as ourselves. V-Specs cost on average a couple of grand more.

Correct. Nissan imported and sold 100 GTR's in 1991 and 1992 for homologation reasons so that they were eligible to be entered at Bathurst and the touring car series (where they cleaned up). Since we can only import cars that were not sold locally in Australia, GTR's manufactured during that time are not eligible. This is the same reason we can only import certain build ranges for RX-7's, S15 Silvias, GTO's and 2+2 300ZX's... for some of their build life they were sold locally as new vehicles in Australia.

July 1991 to May 1992 R32's cannot be imported.