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  1. Same size tire all around, same diff ratio and ofc it had oil... Filled up until it over flowed... One correction also.. It's a full race awd controller installed.. Looking at both diffs and the fact they both broke the same place I'm thinking the awd controller may have been turned up too aggressive.. This only started happening since I started launching the car in manual mode.. The car had made over 25 launches previously in auto mode and never had a problem... But in manual mode it keeps striping the teeth. Maybe leaving the line we with launch control and the twin clutch just is a bit too much for the teeth.... Have considering welding one of the broken diffs back together until I can get my hands on a osgiken.. Not sure how it would drive tho.
  2. I'm getting the feeling something is wrong also.. With the initial set up of the car I've had a issue where the car doesn't roll freely as it should.. So for example I parked on a gently sloping hill and when I got back in the car to move it with the hand break down and foot off the breaks the car didn't move at all while in neutral.. I had to put it in 1st and give it a Lil gas for it to move.. I've had similar experience other places where the car is on an incline and refuse to move unless it's given a Lil throttle.... I've never driven a stock gtr so I'm not sure if this is something normal... Also a few times this happend I turned off the ets awd controller and the car would sometimes unlock itself and roll Foward .. I notice this but I assumed the awd controller was doing because it sense the car was on an incline through the g-sensor and sent powers to the front which somehow caused it to lock up... I'm confused to what's happening through because I know the ets controller also needs a tps signal to activate the awd pump and with my foot off the throttle that didn't make sense... Hope I'm making sense here. Some additional info.. The first gears that broke the car had stock ratios from the gts4 4.375.. We them fited the car with a 4.08 gearing front and rear diff (I counted all the teeth on both diff several times to varify the markings) ... They were both 49:12.... Everthing was torqued to spec. I'll upload a pic to show where the spider gears are breaking... The second one broke in a pattern That suggests the gears are stripping because the passenger side axel isn't moving.. When i tried launching the car when it broke the second time it was almost as if I was doing a fwd open diff burn out because I could see the tires smoking front and rear on my driver side.
  3. So..... I have a s15 Silvia that we converted awd by chopping up a gts-4 shell.. Car makes about 500hp to the wheels... Cars fitted with a twin disc spec clutch and the awd is controlled by a ets pro.. Awd works perfect... Launched the car couple of times while the awd controller was in auto mode and all was fine.. Launched the car manual mode full awd front diff survived 2 launch.. Replaced the spider gears that were damaged launched the car again and still managed to strip the spider gears again.. At this point I'm looking at getting a os giken lsd.... I've never heard of these diff breaking this easily.. At the time of launch the car was down on boost only making around 380hp.... The diff front and back ratio are the same.... Can something else be causing the gears to break so easily or I'm I just having bad luck with 2 worn out differential
  4. car loosing oil pressure is nothing new. when i had just switched my 26 into a s15 shell we used a stock 25 pan as it was rwd ....after a couple months of driving and installing a oil pressure gauge we realize the oil pressure was dropping off from 5 bar to 3 bar during pulls..fortunately we never rev pass 6000 rpm but when it was a time for a rebuild the moto looked like it had done 30000 miles on the bearing while it only did 1500... the crank wasn't damage but bearings were in a terrible state.. a engine will survive slightly low oil pressure for period of time..so if u have a way of monitoring it use it.. i now run a 9L sump with baffles and don't get the issue anymore on flat roads.
  5. oil pressure sensor isn't a waste of time... if for some reason you suck your oil pan low and suck up air your pressure will drop off from like 5 bar to 4 bar if you have protection set up that could stop you from going through all 4 gears and address the problem. if your oil pump break that's a different story especially if your under high rev. at 1000hp a dry sump is a chap investment
  6. temp is suppose to raise when you go into boost not fall off. higher the boost more it should heat up ... but yr as i said the stock one is crap. its actually a water temp style Nissan stuck in there so its reaction time is awful . at start up mine would be 50c at warm up 20 min later its at 65c off boost.it basically just measured the heat in the intake..even if i shut off with with ignition on only it would retain the same degree for bout 30min
  7. ok.. i had this problem also..straight to the point the stock air temp sensor is garbage..it would hover between 60 and climb to 70c regardless of if your running 20 psi (which is when it should be climbing) n off boost when is where it should be low.. remember dense air need more fuel , less dense (hot) needs less.... so when the air sensor is stick at 70c while the actual temp is only 45c its gonna send less fuel to the moto which is gonna cause u to lean out..... quick fix...simply put all the compensation for the air temp sensor to +10 in your compensation map for 50-80c ..in that way it wouldn't lean out but u may end up getting a few richer spots than desired.. if your running afm remember the afm don't need a air intake temp sensor ( that's why the stock is junk )because essentially its able to tell the amount of air and temp of the air coming in .. what i sad to u above is only applicable if your using a map sensor.. so if you believe you have heat soak issues you can bet your ass those afm are reacting to the hot air inside the engine bay.. just allow your car to warm up ,take a hair dryer and direct the blower not inside the afm but around it , just enough so it can suck in the hot air and watch your afr ratio lean out at idle
  8. i cant say for sure,,but i had some sard injectors 900 cc and the second i put them in they fowled my plugs..could not get the car idling much less tuned..had me doubting my tuning skill for a while lol..... replaced them with stock problem went away..i later installed some dw injectors.. those sard injectors seem to be a hit and miss imo
  9. sounds like you have oil cooling problems. crank case pressure would not flicker you oil light at low rpm.when u have excess pressure that pressure relief itself usually out your breather or passes through ya rings and is seen as oil burning through your exhaust as black smoke which makes the car looks like its running rich.. when the oil heats up and thins out you would get a significant drop in oil pressure ..as long as the oil is over heating your gona get this issue.....i run 500hp in a s15 and have no oil restriction, no catch can but i did start suffer from oil starvation after 300hp ..when the power came on my oil pressure went from 70 to 40 psi .i installed a custom extended sump with baffles and a oil cooler and run a lil over 9L of oil and dont have that issue anymore. you wouldn't see the oil pressure drop during normal driving because the oil cooling system your using now is sufficient enough to keep the oil cool for couple pulls here and there.track is another issue constant rpm over 6k and a lot of rpm limiter will heat stuff up a lot quicker than u think.. my 650hp integra throws out a bit of oil after a couple passes at the track .its normal to do that with any engine at that power....but a drop in oil pressure significant enough to bring on the light is a different problem.. what grade oil are u using and what oil cooler?
  10. imo its worth it over a 6262. when properly set up they would only make 10% difference in hp for half the price difference.
  11. hmmmmm.. as a tuner tuning on both road and dyno its not advisable to take timing maps from other cars... different turbo ,mods, compensation maps bla bla make a huge difference.. i made 415HP @20 psi with 22* on a 6262 on 91 oct i also made 499 hp @21 psi with 27* on a borgwarner 8375 using the same 91oct with waiter injection.which would bring it up to 97-103 oct.... but whose to say if my compensation map is pulling 5* in the back ground . or if my finial timing is 27* but my intake temp is super low... quick answer though...with everything working cool and proper fuel you should be able to go 18-20* at 20psi ... it your street tuning you would feel the difference...go up 20* make a pull and make a pull at 17* if both feels like there pulling the same leave it at 17 once knock is not present.
  12. hey.. i used a .88ar back end because i was worried about lag as the turbo was non bb.. your dyno graph is a lil unfair comparison as the bigger ar back ends has 5psi difference .it may not look like much but once these turbo begin to spool the move from 7psi to 21psi in a heart beat... that may contribute to more power lower in the power band.. the twin scroll will help with spool up when combined with a twin manifold.. what moto are these graph from?
  13. with that power you should be using heat range 8 not 7...close the gap and try again..stock ignition system is good to around 28psi so at 22 you should have no problems
  14. umm ....simple 255 intank walbro , 600cc , a decent turbo , 3inch exhaust ,proper clutch and a management of your tuner choice ..no need to touch the moto .... 400-450 easily doable
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