R32Abuser

Long gone!

It is... I made a for sale thread in the whole cars section. On my phone atm so can't link...

Had a few questions which I thought I'd post the response: Straight? Has it had any accidents? Repaired damage etc(other than that stated in you post) No major accidents. Only accident repair that I have had was relatively minor damage caused to the front bar/bonnet as a result of a driveway collision. The Bonnet was repaired and the front bar and reinforcement bar that were scrapped and replacement items fitted. Any rust? On the roof there is a tiny spot the size of a ball point (from a pen). You would barely noticed it if you tried looking and didn't know the car. It appears to be surface rust. On the damage (stated in the post), where the object has contacted the panel, there is a small amount of surface rust. If I wanted to, I could remove it...however this would only be a temporary fix. Engine Was it built by a professional builder? Yes - AutoSolutions and Restorations was the assembler. Majority of the engine work was done by Lewis Engines Was the crank machined and grub screwed etc? Larger crank collar drive for the oil pump fitted? Yes and Yes. For reference, it has an RB25DET S2 oil pump fitted (the one with the larger drive area from memory) Oil restrictors fitted to the head? And rear head oil drain? Yes - as per the RB30 guide and RB30 thread based on it being a street car. Oil head drain - Yes, drained back to the baffled/winged race sump via a 1.5-2" (approx.) flexible hose. have you head any issues with the engine? Erroneous Knocking etc? Initially we had issues being able to wind timing in it without it knocking - see below post: End result was it just needed a bit more work in the tune. Erroneous knocking - was found to be the old knock sensors triggering under light load. Solution was for the ECU to ignore the knock sensors (install a resistor inside of the ECU) and the tuner used knock ears and tuned very conservatively. Be aware, like a lot of forged builds, there is some piston slap especially when cold. With the hood down, inside the cabin, you can "just" notice it from time to time. But it's best to hear in person. was the turbo new? No - was off a forum member Cubes (Joel) here in adelaide. Was stored meticulously by him (and I) until it was installed onto the car. Not sure of km done by Cubes, but I rebuilt the motor at around 168000km and it now has in the high 170000kms (can't remember actual figure). standard cams? No - Tomei 256/8.5mm cams on both the intake and exhaust. Do you have any regrets, or things you would have done differently with the build? To be honest, for the power, I could have probably got away with a standard RB30 bottom end and a conservative tune. Sure it wouldn't have made as much power, or be quite as responsive (lower static CR), but it would have been cheaper and given me 90% of the result. The power figure seems on the low side.... What boost was that on? See attached dyno graph. As per above, tuner was very conservative with the tune. any other issues with the car? Electrics not working? Air con not working? Etc. etc. Aircon - havent used it in a while so probably doesn't work. The GTR triple gauges are not hooked up (it was more to fill the DIN void) Oil pressure sender (and therefore oil pressure gauge) occasionally will cut out. Engine has been verified multiple times to have correct oil pressure.

For reference, here is the dyno graph from a few years back. img-301131610-0001.pdf

Engine is not engineered for SA. Here in SA we don't need RWC

All sorted now...

1993 R32 GTST, RB30DET, 281 RWKW + Mods 1993 R32 GTST M-Spec, Owned since 2004 @ 128,000km....Current km ~175,000km PRICE: $10,000 ONO CONTACT: 0401 317 009 (David) ENGINE RB25/30DET (R32 RB25DE head, RB30E series 2 block) CP 9:1 Forged Pistons Spool 4340 H Beam Rods ARP rod fasteners ACL Race Series main bearings ACL Race Series big end bearings ARP head bolts Cometic MLS head gasket refer to - http://www.spoolimports.com/spool-engine-rebuild-kits/nissan/rb30det-rebuild-kit/holden-nissan-rb30det-dohc-rebuild-kit-with-cp-forged-pistons-9-0-1 This motor probably only has about 7000km on it from when it was built in 2011. Garrett GT3076R 0.82 A/R Turbo 3 inch metal intake pipe to turbo Trust VSPL FMIC Blitz DSBC Dual Stage boost controller (Low boost ~15 PSI, High Boost ~19-20 PSI) Q45 AFM Bosch 550cc Injectors NisTune R32 RB20DET computer with map to suit above setup on BP98 Bosch 040 fuel pump Nismo adjustable fuel regulator 3" Turbo back exhaust (Bell mouth style dump to suit GT30 to Catalytic converter to resonator, to JUNBL rear muffler) I have parts of a replacement exhaust system which would quiet it down a little more which I'd throw in. Power - makes 281 RWKW on Jaustech's dyno (can attach dyno plot)...240 of those RWKW available from about 4000RPM. Could crack the 300 RWKW with bigger injectors and a Z32AFM. DRIVELINE RB25GTST G/box (std internals) Nismo engine mounts Nismo gearbox mounts Jim Berry "race" clutch (reasonably light on the foot, but does bite hard) OEM flywheel Modified RB20 GTST tail shaft (w/ RB25 yoke) to suit gearbox and diff STD OEM V-LSD diff (I have an R34 RB25 Neo torsen differential at home which is easy to fit up...just needs backlash to be setup) STD OEM driveline otherwise (more than adequate for the power output) SUSPENSION Full Sydneykid Bilstein/Whiteline setup (http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85591-r32-gtst-whiteline-bilstein-suspension/): Bilstein B4 "c" clip height adjustable shocks valved to suit suspension setup Whiteline "lowered" (25mm lower than stock) springs Whiteline front and rear fixed anti roll bars Whiteline front upper camber arms (adjustable) Whiteline front adjustable castor bushes Whiteline rear camber arms (outer IIRC) Volk Racing GT-P's (old school) 8" fronts, 9" rears IIRC (they came with the car back in 2004) Bridgeston Adrenaline RE001 235/45/17 fronts and rears IIRC Not fitted but will chuck in - Whiteline HICAS elimination kit Whiteline subframe replacement bushes (NOT PINEAPPLES) Superpro diff bushes Superpro steering rack bushes few other odds and ends which I have accumulated over the years BODY Genuine R32GTR front bar (will throw in the OEM mesh that goes over the intercooler) R32 GTR rear wing R32 GTR rear boot Will throw in: GTR style fibreglass side skirts (in primer) R32 GTST boot/wing Issues - one of the rear quarters has a sizeable dent in it about the size of a football and about as deep as a book (thickness). I have been quoted about $600 to fix it and paint. The boot also has a small dent in it also. IIRC I was quoted about $1000 (maybe a touch more) to fit the side skirts, fix the dents and paint. Will post photos when I get a chance. MISC R32 GTR centre console tripple gauges (not connected) Alpine head unit GReddy turbo time (not connected) Viper (unknown model) immobiliser Not fitted but will throw in: Focal 6.5" front splitters (cost me $500 at the time and never fitted) Alpine 4 channel amp wiring kit to suit the above Viper immobiliser (remote start capable, few other features) There's probably a few other things I've missed out but that will do for now... Reason for selling - I cannot economically justify owning it anymore! Pictures are located here -

Thread revival... Would appreciate an honest opinion into my original post!!!

R32 GTR front number plate bracket - $50 Still available???

Interested in just the rear muffler. Willing to post to SA?

Its been a while since I was last on here...not a lot has changed haha The time has come where I cannot justify (economically) running my skyline. $1000 a year in rego and a tad less in insurance (full comp) burns a hole in my pocket when realistically I do not drive it often enough to enjoy it. This is not a decision which I have taken lightly (it was my first car back in 2004) and I will in no way get back the money I have put into it (probably $20,000 over the 11 years of ownership). Anyway - I'm after some advice of what I should be asking. Rough specs/mods as follows: 1993 R32 GTST M-Spec Owned since 2004 @ 128,000km....Current km ~175,000km ENGINE RB25/30DET (R32 RB25DE head, RB30E series 2 block) CP 9:1 Forged Pistons Spool 4340 H Beam Rods ARP rod fasteners ACL Race Series main bearings ACL Race Series big end bearings ARP head bolts Cometic MLS head gasket refer to - http://www.spoolimports.com/spool-engine-rebuild-kits/nissan/rb30det-rebuild-kit/holden-nissan-rb30det-dohc-rebuild-kit-with-cp-forged-pistons-9-0-1 This motor probably only has about 7000km on it from when it was built in 2011. Garrett GT3076R 0.82 A/R Turbo 3 inch metal intake pipe to turbo Trust VSPL FMIC Blitz DSBC Dual Stage boost controller (Low boost ~15 PSI, High Boost ~19-20 PSI) Q45 AFM Bosch 550cc Injectors NisTune R32 RB20DET computer with map to suit above setup on BP98 Bosch 040 fuel pump Nismo adjustable fuel regulator 3" Turbo back exhaust (Bell mouth style dump to suit GT30 to Catalytic converter to resonator, to JUNBL rear muffler) I have a 3" "big" magna flow middle muffler that I was intending to fit which I would throw in to replace the resonator Power - makes 281 RWKW on Jaustech's dyno (can attach dyno plot)...240 of those RWKW available from about 4000RPM. Could crack the 300 RWKW with bigger injectors and a Z32AFM. DRIVELINE RB25GTST G/box (std internals) Nismo engine mounts Nismo gearbox mounts Jim Berry "race" clutch (reasonably light on the foot, but does bite hard) OEM flywheel Modified RB20 GTST tail shaft (w/ RB25 yoke) to suit gearbox and diff STD OEM V-LSD diff (I have an R34 RB25 Neo torsen differential at home which is easy to fit up...just needs backlash to be setup) STD OEM driveline otherwise (more than adequate for the power output) SUSPENSION Full Sydneykid Bilstein/Whiteline setup (http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85591-r32-gtst-whiteline-bilstein-suspension/): Bilstein B4 "c" clip height adjustable shocks valved to suit suspension setup Whiteline "lowered" (25mm lower than stock) springs Whiteline front and rear fixed anti roll bars Whiteline front upper camber arms (adjustable) Whiteline front adjustable castor bushes Whiteline rear camber arms (outer IIRC) Volk Racing GT-P's (old school) 8" fronts, 9" rears IIRC (they came with the car back in 2004) Bridgeston Adrenaline RE001 235/45/17 fronts and rears IIRC Not fitted but will chuck in - Whiteline HICAS elimination kit Whiteline subframe replacement bushes (NOT PINEAPPLES) Superpro diff bushes Superpro steering rack bushes few other odds and ends which I have accumulated over the years BODY Genuine R32GTR front bar (will throw in the OEM mesh that goes over the intercooler) R32 GTR rear wing R32 GTR rear boot Will throw in: GTR style fibreglass side skirts (in primer) R32 GTST boot/wing Issues - one of the rear quarters has a sizeable dent in it about the size of a football and about as deep as a book (thickness). I have been quoted about $600 to fix it and paint. The boot also has a small dent in it also. IIRC I was quoted about $1000 (maybe a touch more) to fit the side skirts, fix the dents and paint. Will post photos when I get a chance. MISC R32 GTR centre console tripple gauges (not connected) Alpine head unit GReddy turbo time (not connected) Viper (unknown model) immobiliser Not fitted but will throw in: Focal 6.5" front splitters (cost me $500 at the time and never fitted) Alpine 4 channel amp wiring kit to suit the above Viper immobiliser (remote start capable, few other features) There's probably a few other things I've missed out but that will do for now... I will post pictures when I get a chance! TL;DR - give me a rough price that I should sell the above for. Cheers!

You need the Nismo items. If memory serves, OEM have one short and one long stub shaft. Nismo items are same length. Someone mentioned that the Nismo items are just two of the same OEM types (i.e. two short or two long). ..not sure whether it worked though!

Lol goes to show you how inconsistent Regency is... I tried to go through at 356mm on the front and they turned it down for being 3mm too low.

Cant remember what the OEM eyebrow height is, but I know to pass regency its 360mm. 370 probably is about right now that I think about it!

Yup...with the whiteline springs that came in the kit. IIRC I had a PM from gary where he explained words to the effect of..."On the std (yellow) cir clip groove, std springs will sit at OEM height (~360mm eyebrow height or there a bouts)." The whiteline springs being the lowered type (~25mm lower than std), would make the car sit 25mm lower than OEM height on the std cir clip groove. Hence, you would need to have a cir clip machined 25mm offset to the std. All of this is not taking into account any spring sag...