Tosh

Happy Birthday Shelly!!!

Active LSD A factory option that was available on the R33 GTS-t's

Nismo don't make a Mechanical LSD for the S2 with the A-LSD fitted. You'll have to buy a rear end out of a S2 GTS-t without the A-LSD and then put the Nismo GT LSD into it.

FYI: The Kink is officially turn 1

I've hit 180 through the kink

:wavey: hey mate... I see your still alive! missed you too

last time we went there we got owned badly..... I think Team Northside is scared of that place

that's MArk and Pete

1. Plumb your blow off valve back into your intake pipe. If your BOV can't be plumbed back then I would suggest you put the Standard Blow Off Valve back on the car. 2. Get a new CAT fitted. Sounds like your one is stuffed or you don't have one at all. Carline Mufflers in Gladesville can supply you a very nice, proper high flow CAT for around $500. Well worth the money. 3. Get your O2 Sensor & Injectors Cleaned. Grey Imports in Annandale is good for this. 4. Clean your Air Flow Meter by removing it and spraying the contact inside with Contact Cleaner 5. Take your car to a Nissan dealer with a Consult Computer and get them to clear the self learning memory out of the ECU. I know Hornsby and Haberfield Nissan definately have them, not sure if they all do. That should make a fair difference for you. However as you have a higher flowing exhaust system fitted to your car it will never completely get rid of the back firing. The only way to completely get rid of it is to put the standard exhaust back on but there's no need to go that far. It will be alot better if you take the steps I've outlined above

I agree, your football threads never seem to get much discussion in here mate.. I don't think too many are really interested

$1900 Mona, I have emailed Japan to find out if the Nismo GT will fit your car. Waiting on a reply

Be careful of those taxes

Powerplay can supply Nismo 1.5 Way GT LSD's and also fit them.

GT LSD's and GT LSD Pro's are only really suitable for track work or drifting etc... no use putting one in a street car as they are very klunky and harsh to drive around town at low speeds. They are mechanical siffs operated by clutches. Don't get me wrong they are fantastic diff's however a little overkill for a street driven daily.

which endless pads do you have richard? like I said the CC-R's only work from 150 degrees upward which explains why they need a few stops to start working well

mu's secret or stamford tyres

Titanium Carbon Metal Composite. http://www.project-mu.co.jp/e/product/hc-t.html On the topic of brakes, Race Brakes now distribute a brand called Galfer. They make Braided Brake Lines for around $450 for a full set. Very good lines and well worth the money to improve your pedal feel.

must be the same car I saw @ BD4's today

I'm on a $79 cap... I rarely check

no just fronts for that kind of money you may as well fork out another $30 for Project Mu HC Titan Kai Pads. One of THE BEST pads you will ever come across and that's speaking from first hand experience. They work from cold and are rated to 800 Degrees. This is awesome for a performance pad considering Endless's top of the line CC-R pads work in a heat range of 150 ~ 800 Degrees. Project Mu pads are also readily available in Australia. you wont look back

should have bought a turbo

parts wont be hard at all... Hornsby Nissan stock a very larger range of import parts and if you speak to John there he is very helpful and knowledgeable. But when you ring it would be best to always have your chassis number handy so they can see it's an R32 with the RB25DE motor so you always get the right parts. If anything is not in stock then it's only 2 weeks from Japan. It might be a challenge to get 2nd hand parts but that's the case with any car really... SSS Automotive and Just Jap are good for 2nd hand parts in NSW. Also Japanese Motorsport in Adelaide stock a very decent range of 2nd hand parts (they had 5 sets of Calipers we needed in stock that 5 other NSW wreckers didn't). Don't be freaked out about them being in SA, Couriers Please will courier most items for around $25 to you.. Not that expensive really. Your chassis number can be found in 2 places. 1 is on the blue Nissan build plate and the other is on the firewall at the back of the engine bay. It will read as follows: HCR32-0012345 probably wont be HCR32 but I forget the model code for you car but you get the idea

that wouldn't be such a bad thing