SLY33

might be a bit far out for me, as a dont know my way around at all! I be in the city though, check out the rocks as everyone suggests, i feel more like a slow perve cruise than a drive cruise tonight, still a bit tired from the drive from adelaide!

ok sweet thanks guys, ill be there later. Would be good to meet some of you, ill try to be at the cruise meet tomorrow.

hi dude, im around north sydney. Yet to find the cruising hot spots of sydney!

Hi guys, I finally have my car up here as of yesterday, and i dont know where to take it for the best cruising. Any of you out cruising tonight? would love to meet up. If theres anything happening drop me a message or call 0404479687. Cheers, Allan

bump. Still available, as new in box.

sorry clint, got adj caster bushes, thats enough caster for me

hi steve! yeah shame about the cat, if hiflows are this restrictive id hate to see a normal non-hiflow cat! I dont get compressor surge, which is where the compressor tries to pump more air than the engine can swallow. From what Bill from ATS said its a problem with the comp wheel spinning out of efficiency and losing ability to pump. I dont think the wheel on a 2530 is big enough to cause comp surge. Im actually surprised at the amount of R&D that im forced to do! I thought that with all the tuning places around doing these cars nowdays that they would pretty much have a full understanding of these little "mystery" problems such as ive had/having, and ended up costing me much more than i budgeted for! But it definitely helps those who want to go the same road! N/A, yeah i know, they go sick after 1 bar! I can imagine it would be like a jet!

knore, when i bought the car it had a gutted cat. I replaced this with a new 3in hiflow cat. It just proved to be more restrictive than i thought. The car has all the usual basic bolt on mods. Exh, CAI and pod, FMIC, fuel pump, FC, clutch, EBC etc etc plus 2 way diff and upgraded brakes. the turbo setup cost me $1800 + a few braided lines i had to get, so all up under 2grand. (also 170 or so for a tomei fuel pres reg as using std injectors) Had some runs tonight against a GTR with twin GT2530's (you know who you are!). Off the line of course no chance, rolling run also of course no chance, but i was surprised how well the car hung in there, and i think so was he! Also played with a jap spec STi WRX running 1.8bar and possibly a bigger turbo. Wasnt even going to try off the line, but rolling run, see ya later!

i like the torana story Blitz, Bla4ck32 answered this thread correctly in the first reply, ie Prevents gearstick shake while launching hard etc.

Used for only about 2 weeks, as new. $500 reason for sale: i had problems with stable boost control, and thought it was the E-boost, so i bought a blitz spec r, installed it then found out that my problem was due to a dodgy wastegate actuator. Now i have 2 top EBC's, the blitz is already mounted, E-boost is sitting around. As reviewed in Zoom issue 73:- "E-Boost is one of those rare products that does everything its manufacturers claim." prefer adelaide or sydney buyer.

i have these fitted, no noticeable decrease in ride quality, good traction too. Not sure about the specifics of what bushes are retained/used with etc...

Id been having trouble holding boost, and bought a new wastegate actuator. When i went to remove the stock one, i found that even with the actuator rod fully in, the wastegate was actually about half a mm open! Installed the new actuator, putting plenty of pretension on it so the gate was held firmly closed. Fired it up and went for a spin. Once warm i gave it a 3/4 squeeze in 2nd from about 40km/h, the thing came on boost like never before and snaked beautifully up the road! I then realised that i hadnt changed my EBC settings, still set for the old actuator, and that i had just experienced 1.45bar! oops! but knock levels were well under 20 so i wasnt too worried. I adjusted the EBC and set between 1.2-1.3bar. The car was now feeling better and crisper than ever, and was holding boost longer, but still falling to just under 1bar at the very top end. Off to Morpowa for another tidy up tune, i was expecting good results. This being the third tune so far, produced even LESS peak power, at 218rwkw. What had i done? I'd fitted a hiflow cat since the last tune, and it literally killed top end power. When having the cat fitted i was told id lose a few rwkw at most, but after seeing the power result i rang Exh Tech and was told that with the boost and turbo im running, it would easily cost me 10rwkw or so. But after driving the car after this final tune, the peak power didnt bother me at all, as the car is by far the quickest its ever been. It now pulls like it did when i ran 1.4bar boost, lighting up second beautifully on a boosting roll on! Put it this way, if i was told that the car made 235rwkw id have believed it. (the original tune made 227 and it feels quicker now) Just for curiosity's sake, i pulled the new cat for a test on a private road. Immediate obvious seat of pants difference. Spool up is noticably even quicker, especially in 3rd and 4th. It feels very fast but i couldnt rev it out, as i hit 100% inj duty cycle pretty much immediately after boosting! I already have injectors on the way. Needless to say i will be exploring a "super" hi-flow cat option (some sort of custom arrangement) and when the new injectors go in we'll see how she goes. As for the boost not holding to get a good peak power, ATS says its because the RB25 at 1.2-1.3bar creates too much exh flow through the turbine, which spins the compressor out of its efficiency range, and instead of pumping/compressing the air, it "chops" it, and causes boost to fall off. This problem is not apparent on an RB20. So i guess it could be said that this turbo is too small for an RB25, which i have argued in the past, but damn the thing is so punchy and torquey through the midrange, that on the street it is more than suitable. the perfect example is the red 300zx i ran last night, he had 250rwkw vs my 218rwkw. I ate him, shifting at 6000rpm. If thats not a perfect example of how midrange torque and "AVERAGE" power is more important than "PEAK" power, then i dont know what is! Overall very happy with this turbo, and i'm still confident that with a less restrictive exhaust, i hope to see easily over 230kw at the wheels.

hi guys, my thoughts are that the intercooler shouldnt make too big a contribution to the car overheating. i say this because the fan shrouds are so good (on 33's anyway, havent seen a 34 shroud), that air is pulled very efficiently through the radiator. The intercooler is fitted a fair distance away from the radiator, which will restrict air flow when on the move, but as mentioned if the fan is working correctly, it will pull the air it needs through the radiator whether their is a cooler in front of it or not. My point being that usually temps are going to rise when sitting in traffic on a hot day, where the intercooler wont restrict air coming through as there is no 'flow' while doing the low speed traffic crawl anyways. N/A when does your temp problem happen? Only when you have to sit in traffic or does it even happen when you get moving? My temp went to 97deg, a/c on, while sitting in traffic for ages on the last 40 odd degree day, but as soon as i get moving it comes back down. Also if you are still using the factory sender, it could be a bit off. My factory sender sits dead in the middle ALL the time once warmed up. Normal temp ~80deg=middle. 97deg on the FC and it still sits in the middle!

what tricks do you have up your sleeve to lower the duty cycle? My injectors hit 97.7% duty cycle the other night Its going in for more fuel pressure and a tidy-up tune tomorrow.. even with duty cycle so high, the AFRs are fine and theres no knocking. Why do people say dont go over 80% duty cycle? (it only seems to go into the 90's on cold nights)

Search reveals plenty about pads, nothing about rotors. (this is probably suited to the braking section, but im sure it will get more views here, as im planning to put the new rotors in tonight!) I know many of you purchased DBA rotors through the group buy, just wondering how you went about bedding in the rotors, and how critical is it? -as long as you dont get too much heat into them too early, will that be good enough? -how long before you can use them hard? -did anyone use new pads with new rotors? (ive been told not to do this) Ive had conflicting info from a few sources.. cheers guys

PS, dont prefer imported girls myself... and im half import!@ on the topic of this thread though, i saw a yellow 180sx, may have had a black roof and white rims. Pretty sure i remember Viva garage stickers on it. It was on anzac highway, he wouldnt run me.

HAHA, nah its just that girls are always changing their hair colour these days. Same chick different day I havent come all that far dude, last 2 nights ive been cruising in the GUZLER! Old school style! I miss the rumbling and the avgas fumes...! dude you'll give me a bad reputation! and besides i can go nearly three minutes these days! :wassup: haha, you girls crack me up! Like i said, i havent had a propper look! Miss_Nismo, i dont put out to pretty much anyone! (what has N/A been saying? haha), i just wondered if she was hot. When are you coming for a cruise with me? -but im very superficial so you have to be hot, just ask N/A Enrico, you can have my old bikini girl avatar if you want it!

its not a skyline, but the custom blue FTO, plate INOCNT or something like innocent? The chick driving, is she a looker? (-ive passed her a few times going the other way so never had a propper look)

yeah its dead simple and easy to get the hang of... what brakes you getting fitted?

its hard to say from those photos and no other info other than size. The end tanks where the inlet/outlet are arent doing much for me...

hi guys, i would disagree with this. im not sure it would represent bang for buck once you add it all up. I was going to do the flywheel, cam gear and all the little accessory power things etc, but the cost plus fitting of all these just do get small gains works out to be as much as a new turbo. And only for low 13's. I ended up selling my cam gear and forgetting the flywheel for now and went straight for an upgrade turbo. at 1800$ plus fitting/tuning and the car should run easy 12s. Granted you will still need a couple of extra things like a Rising rate reg, but the stocky turbo wont match the midrange and top end increase in huff over of upgrade/highflow. Im quite happy at the moment with how the car drives, and dont desire a whole lot of extra power, and now i can still add the little things like the cam gear if i want a bit later on. (if you go a highflow of the stockie you can probably "get away with" the standard dump pipe too. I made ~230rwkw with stock dump but with an HKS2530 it wasnt real suitable. A good dump is always a good idea though) Im not saying cam gears, flywheels etc arent worth it, and eventually id like to add them all. Even if you get up near 220rwkw with the std turbo, the torque wont compare to an upgrade turbo. To get the most out of any modifications you'll need an ECU in any case.

i dont even know if this unit displays psi! mine has always displayed BAR. 12psi is about 0.8bar.

turning the mode knob on the left cycles thru 1,2,3,4 plus some other modes im not sure of. 1-4 can be preset at different settings ie high to low boost. Start with 1. Pressing the right knob in (volume) cycles thru the units display. It goes thru boost guage, PEAK, and the boost set point which is between 0-100 or 1-99 (i cant remember). Press the volume knob repeatedly until it displays the boost set point. (it will be a just a number. Peak mode display will show PEAK on the unit, and boost guage will show a negative number if your idling) Once you have this boost set point displayed, press the mode knob in, and the little "1" up in the left hand corner of the display will flash. This means the boost set point is unlocked and you can change it by turning the volume knob up or down, increasing or decreasing the value. Once set press the mode knob again, and the 1 will stop flashing meaning its set and locked. start with a figure of 10. Set the display to PEAK (will show you the peak boost achieved -press the volume knob till you see PEAK) then floor it in 3rd allowing boost to hit its max. Then check the display. the value it displays will be the boost you have set for mode 1. If its too low, repeat the process and increase the value by a few points at a time until you reach you desired boost.

I get the dirty looks too from other fellow line drivers and everyone else! (apart from the chicks who give the good kind of dirty looks ) Me and a mate call it the "Stinkeye" (adapted from Kramer off Seinfeld) Im getting sick of ass's in their lines giving me the stinkeye! I always was one for the smile-and-nod, and usually that turns a stinkeye into a surprised sort of "oh ok, hi mate" look. But I think im being turned into one of the angry people due to the overexposure of STINKEYES. Im bringing my line to sydney in 2 weeks guys, so if you see a bright orange 33 dumped on 19in chromies, no stinkeyes please

looking at the pictures the cobras and sparcos look pretty much the same! I could have seen older model cobras or something...