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Butters

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Butters last won the day on July 25 2020

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    Cefiro, Silvia, 180sx, Audi A3
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    Simon

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  1. Both that graph and article suggest a spool of ~250rpm earlier. Not to be sneezed at if you want a street car, specially with no top end loss. Wondering if it will end up equal on spool going from .86 to 1.06 but have the extra top end. Any one have rear housing back to backs ?
  2. I have a g35-1050 on an rb26, started to wind boost into it and the head lifted. The response so far has been pretty similar to my old gt35 on rb26. 1 bar by 4200/300, so its not amazing by any means. "If" it gets the extra power though over the gt35 it will be a good thing. Taking the chance of head off to add vcam, so hoping this combo will be really responsive. I have been wondering about going t4 split now they are out but will mean going from the .86 I have not to the 1.06 as noted above. Not to mention the cost of manifold, housing, etc.
  3. He said he didn't like OSG rattle. Makes nismo the only choice
  4. I agree with go for the twin if you are worried about power, for the extra cost it holds a lot more. You lose no drive-ability, nor does it get loud. So only downside is the wallet. Unless you have one already, then carry on ...
  5. With changing to mild / Ti , I tend to agree hence asking the question. I don't know or can find enough about the heat properties of the materials to understand. The bonnet vents make a lot of sense and what you say about creating a flow does too. I said carbon bonnet, as i don't want to cut my factory one, these things are getting rare.
  6. This is what i mean in regards to inconel shielding
  7. I have a cefiro with a g35-1050 on a 6b00ber. It is a black car with ABS and aircon still in place. I drive the car on the street and sit in traffic. I am having really high underbay temps , so hot you can't even touch the strut tower even on a winters day. Everything is ceramic coated(inside and out), turbo has a nappy and the dump pipe(made in stainless) is also heat wrapped. I have another car that is similar, ceramic coated and it seems to work MUCH better than this car, both done by the same place but some years apart. It works so well i can touch the dump pipe while the car is running, it is not even heat wrapped, nor does the turbo have a nappy. The only difference between the two cars the the one that works well is a mild steel dump, ceramic coated. Things I am considering and would be interested in advice on : 1> Swapping to a mild steel dump 2> trying the inconel heat shielding on the 6boost and dump 3> Titanium dump ? 4> Carbon bonnet with vents above turbo 5> other suggestions ? When the car run twins it was very hot on the hot side but the heat didn't bleed into the body like it does now. #waits to hear how this is all my fault
  8. The atessa unit under the rear parcel shelf has a light on it. A series of blinks gives you a number that is a fault code. On this forum is the code numbers and the fault. It can range from really easy to solve to very damn hard. Mine fell in the hard category, multiple codes and after fixing some I just replaced the setup with a full race unit and never looked back
  9. I am running a getrag with 4.11s . Really like it for a street car, as a race car i'd be changing out to 3.7. 4.3 I think is going to far unless you are building a motorkhana car.
  10. I;m guessing you are not staging the pumps then ? or have you added some wiring mods to the factory hat also ?
  11. Just note fitting one in a 32 is a bastard, I'd assume the same with the 33. The pull type clutch with damper is a good amount thicker meaning clearing the nose of the box is hard work. Some people clearance tunnel as a result. Converting to push type seems to make this a bit part a bit easier. You will need to make up some transmission mount spacers as the mounts on the body are different too.
  12. Thanks for the above reply I tend to agree. I have really struggled to find a suspension shop I am happy with. These guys did make basic mistakes. ------------------------- Given how this conversation has gone and what I have learned, I really think these are track car only. I have bushes going into standard arms today
  13. never used one myself - https://rawbrokerage.com/products/collins-rb25-rb26-engine-to-350z-z33-370z-z34-transmission-adapter A bit more too it as well than just an adapter plate.
  14. Just see it from my point, the simple fact I am typing the next list is suggests your focus is on the wrong outcome. I have no issue to accept that it may be setup wrong, by me and it resulted in this failure. Your assumption that I am a numpty is the problem. > Researched options and spoke to people that own them > Spoke to GKTech about my intended purpose being road use. > Installed, followed instructions > Had professional suspension place(road and race) go over all suspension prior to engineering. > Engineer reviewed all suspension, photographed, signed off and submitted to DOT (yes inc camber arms) > DOT carried out a full inspection of vehicle, again including these arms. Driving normal road ... *Snap. Throughout all this process not a single mechanic, engineer or inspector saw an issue. As I said, they could have been setup wrong, yes I might have done it(I don't think so). The suspension place was explicitly asked to check. If it had bound on setup, i would have also expect it to fail closer to install, not 6 months later. It would suggest more likely to me a regular checking of product is required, the product is not suitable for road use(even with engineering) or a fault of the product has occurred here. It is from what I see an unusual event, so if you are correct it is a setup issue, then it is a really good learning for others that should be shared.
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