BuzLightyear

Recently whilw driving, my aircon (R32 GTST) stopped producing cold air quite suddenly. The diagnostics show "25" - sunlight sensor. Is this alone enough to cause the problem? Also, how do I remove it. I can lift it from the dash, but can't see how it unclips. Where do I get a new one and how much do they cost?

Thanx guys, I'll go and have a good look!

I had new rotors replaced 45k ago, and they have now developed some run out. Why is it so? Is this a regular problem with R32's? I don't want to get them machined and buy new pads just to have the problem re-occur. I actually haven't had a close look at it yet - any difficulties in removing these discs? Any help would be appreciated

Nice try James, but no-one seriously believes you have ever changed your oil...

Umm... something I was too embarrassed to ask.

Why?? Because I didn't think of it, that's why! (Gee, this is a really hot topic, eh?)

I had my upper control arms replaced 10k ago (at 100k). I put the car in for service again today at Autotech, and Gavin Wood informs me that the new units already have to be replaced (under warranty) due to Nissan manufacturing faults. This is the second car thus affected - the other one also being an R32. Has this also happened to anyone else, or anything like this?? Seems to be quite a manufacturing blunder on the part of Nissan.

Ha!!! That's one of the all time understatements!! Knore - if only you knew!!

I have used VMX80 and Shell Helix fully syn 75/09 which is a GL5 rated oil, and prefer the Shell. (Not sure if VMX80 is GL5 or not) Redline is an 80/120 oil (from memory) which will help the synchros, but it might make for a slower gearchange (?).

I have used VMX80 and Shell Helix fully syn 75/09 which is a GL5 rated oil, and prefer the Shell. (Not sure if

a meggala of Skylines.

Predator!!! Please excuse Preditor, Rezz. I think what he's trying to say is did you have intimate relations with her? Well, did ya???!!!!

I test drove a green one once when I was shopping for mine. The dealer had just imported it...

Thanks guys. My car is a bit rich, but has heaps of go so I'm going to leave it as is - but that's good info and all I really needed to know.

What he said! Also, I had an undetected very slow leak from the reversing light switch at the rear of the gearbox - result; one blown box about 2 months after I bought it. (Warranty job). Buy a warranty is my advice. My car is a good one otherwise. The oil level was low when I had it checked out initially, but no-one noticed the slow leak...

My R32gtst has a Mines chipped ECU, which came with the car when I imported it directly. I want some general information about the Mines and have tried to search, but can't find anything (derr...). Can somebody give me a site to go to, or thread please?

I live in Qld. A friend of mine and his wife had identical bikes and were booked by a cop using radar. It didn't even get to court; they only had to write a letter to the police department and the matter was waived.

Got my car through SVI - found them quite good. After I took delivery of the car, I found both guards rubbed on rough roads (which probably never showed up on Jap roads). Mick Martin (proprietor) had the guards professionally rolled for me - didn't have to do that as he is only an importer for the car I decide on. I found them friendly and efficient.

The weight difference, I believe, is 10%! (R32 is 1250kg., R33 is 1390). I'm not EXACTLY sure of the figures, but I do remember that it's about 140kg. I don't think people hate R33's - yeah, you are just paranoid.

Hey JimX - I think it comes down to the clearances argument, i.e. Jap engines like ours having closer tolerances. I think the 5W30 is fine all year round. Here's a thought - the Mazda Tribute runs Mazda's 0W20 (not a mis-print), and it produces about 140kw.

Yep - concur fully! I had Trampios on my car when I bought it - everything you say. I didn't replace them because they wore too quickly on the inside and outside, but this turned out to be worn bushes on the upper control arms. I went for Firestones instead and while I don't have any complaints about them either, I seem to remember that the Toyo's gave noticably better grip and especially feedback.

A Mobile Auto Air. (Barry McCormack) 07/55732821 Mob: 0418 927148. I just got this guy out of the Yellow Pages. The story: My wife has an 85 Corolla Seca and the aircon went phrrrrt!. She took it to one place, a large company, who told her it was stuffed and because it ran the "old" gas that she basically needed a new system. I phoned Barry and he quoted approx $500 over the phone. He turned up at my wife's work, had a look and told her it was a simple leak and did the job for $250 - I think it took him about 2 hours. (He could have charged her $500 and we'd be none the wiser.) He was also prompt, communicative and courteous! I was so chuffed I nearly called him "Baz" I highly recommend this guy to anyone north of the border and up towards Bris. Think he's be prepared to travel a bit too.

BelGarion, you might recall I was talking to you about this subject when we went on the Mt Glorious cruise recently.... I've posted on this elsewhere previously... My gearbox was also a bit notchy after a rebuild, and from various enquiries, I've ascertained that a lot of gearboxes in many makes are likewise notchy after re-builds - it's just one of those things... Basically... Redine Lightweight Shockproof is a 80w/120 oil. I decided as an alternative to use Oil Stabiliser as a buffer combined with Castrol VMX80 at a concentration of 30%. I found this a little too viscous in winter on my re-built box and probably a 20% concentration would be better, but it might be just right on a worn box - there are various reccomendations on the side of the bottle. Some other members raised questions about oil stabiliser's quality, and there are two websites in which it's lubricicity and foaming characteristics are questioned in a Timkin test and Foaming test respectively, but the methodology of those tests is irrelevant in that it is an ADDITIVE not a substitute, and the foaming is due to it's adhesive qualities. The crux of the matter is that it greatly improves shift quality and quietens the box... all for a $20 fix, and that HAS to be a good thing. The only qualification to what I've done is that I'd probably use a higher quality base oil as a mixer, say, a fully syn. Come round to my place and take my car for a thrash and see how well it shifts... Come to think of it, don't - I've seen you drive!

Yeah... mine is a similar story. My car had 80k on it when I imported it. The steering wheel was quite worn on the right side but not the left, and the gear knob was worn. But the rest of the car checked out just like it had 80k - super quiet motor, no seat or carpet wear, etc. Most of the brake rotors, from what I can gather, tend to wear due to stop/start driving and the nature of the standard pads. In any case, I was under the impression that it really wasn't worth the time to knock the clock as any change would not be all that significant - I understand that a car won't fetch much more at auction since it is mainly the age of the car and overall condition which determine selling price. Can anyone confirm this? Also, who recovers steering wheels and what is the cost - I know nothing of this kinda stuff and happy with the standard wheel which I'd like to keep. I'd just like it re-covered.