JustinFormosa

PM'd

> See someone that wants solution to get around a problem > Thinks solution is to get rid of problem all together You must be a great problem solver.

Thanks for the response, I have a pair of Gtr guards along with the indicators to go on, I think I might do that before touching anything else. Inner guard lining was removed long ago and loom has been tucked up higher out of the way. Then hopefully with the extra outside clearance I wont have to run such aggressive camber, I also need to run more caster rather than less as the wheel has heaps of room at the front but very minimal at the rear. As far as the ADR's go I was unaware it was the whole wheel, I've always gone off the assumption that the top of the rim had to sit underneath the guard. I understand this isn't everyones cup of tea and thats fine, but I feel like if you don't have something constructive to say then why say anything? Thats the only thing that arcs me up.

I don't want to have to run -5 or anywhere close to that, old mate bcozican apparently runs -4 without issues and thats good for him. Running hellaflushstancenationjdmsocietyfanboy camber is not my goal, I simply want to know if the current outcome of what I'm doing (i.e using front upper arms to pull the camber in whilst running debatably stupidly large wheels) seems typical? (number 1 and 2 in the OP) And possibly what will correct such issues other than "buy new wheels" or "just hardpark everywhere"

The guy I bought them off was running them on a 32 as well, he was running 20mm Extended LCA's along with adjustable front camber arms and gtr guards and he said he didn't have any Issues, so yes I have. And just because people don't like what I'm trying to achieve with my car doesn't mean you gotta get sassy As bcozican mentioned he runs a 10" +15 so an 11" +20 is only going to 7-8mm more inset. Do you run standard upper arms? I'd say by pulling the camber out and running adjustable caster arms to square everything up again should solve the issue?

I have a set of GTR guards I'm yet to fit, so should be able to pull the camber out a little but this doesn't resolve the issue of rim rubbing on the upper wishbone.

Ok ty for help m8 will consider.

Thanks but that doesn't quite solve my problem.

Hey Guys, So I've searched the forums for similar issues and haven't been able to find much information. I'm currently trying to fit a set of 18x11 +20 Concave Concepts to my Gts-t and have purchased and installed a set of Front Upper Camber Arms to try and pull them in a little as they poke on my Gts-t guards quite a bit as pictured. Although since doing so have run into a few problems. 1. After adjusting the camber it looks as though the wheel sits further back inside the arch towards the back of the car and is now rubbing quite heavily against the guard/sideskirt mount when turning. (I'm thinking caster arms will fix this as I assume the caster is all out of whack) 2. After adjusting the camber the inside of the wheel looks like its sitting over the coilover (above the lock collar for the base and below the lock collar for the spring) and over hard bumps the coilover compresses and hits against the inside of the rim. 3. At full lock, or close to, the inside of the rim rubs up against the upper wishbone and makes a horrid grinding noise (I have since notched out the wishbone but apparently not enough because it still does it) I tried fitting a set of 7mm slip on spacers to fix the issue but they pull the wheels out a little too far and create all kinda of rubbing issues on the guards. Has anybody had any similar issues, or have any constructive suggestions/can help at all? Thanks.

Sorry for bumping an old post but would somebody be able to tell me where to source the bonnet spoiler? Would ask OP but hasn't been active since 2k13

This is great, Loving the work you're doing keep it up

I've been having a few issues with my car recently in the way thats it seems sluggish and hesitant through the rev range specifically between 2-4k I recently adjusted my AAC valve before reading this without first unplugging the brown plug (rb20det) could this be a cause to the issue, maybe I adjust it too far or something? Ideas?

I love this build keep it up and keep us updated! top notch bro. my 32 has begun to seem a little sluggish and backfires a lot more than it used to. nothing seems to indicate fuel pump but I guess its worth a check

Little thread revival to ask a quick question, didn't want to make a whole other topic, what is the best way to remove dried polish from things, glass/paint ect. I wasn't real careful when I begun buffing and there's white dots of polish that are really hard to get off just about everywhere ahah.

Cars looking boss! Good to see something different (the N/A rb25 you're building) Keep us updated

Quick update on this, I have started cutting back most of the paint, and have most of the bits and pieces on, Also have some gtr front fenders to be painted and fitted soon. Skirts and rear overfenders also yet to go on. But heres how the paints looking

Unfortunately I'm not, I PM'd you anyways tho man!

Haven't had much more time recently. Sanded back a few more with 2000 but yet to hit it with any polish, when I get round to it I'll update with pictures

Well I measured both front and rear when I bought em and the fronts were 10" and rears were 11" minusing off the beads on either side would make them a 9.5 and 10.5 wide, although I could easily be off with the offset, the inside of the rears were rubbing on the control arm.

235/45/18 on the back, fair bit of stretch on them too, that's the standard rear guard there. they have about an inch and a bit of poke running a bit of camber.

Part 2 Saw a few gtr's with this headlight/radiator ducting so decided to have a go making my own and they came out great The oppertunity then came up to get a new set of wheels to help fill out the widebody that would be going on eventually. Came across a set of work equip 05's 18x9.5 +38 front and 18x10.5 +38 rears with 25mm bolt on spacers all round Uni holidays came around and It was time to start prepping the car for paint along with the rest of the bits and pieces. As this is a budget build and very much DIY I opted to paint it myself, I'd never done this before so it was going to be interesting. Dad got involved, he was a way better painter than I was so I was real glad. it turned out "good from a far, far from good" type deal, and will need some serious cutting/polishing still but It was black and for that I was happy. I then began wetsanding with 2000grit paper then using some no name cut and polish compound, not really knowing too well what I was doing but it seemed to be working ok for the moment, plus I knew I had to sand back the orange peel anyways. Then to start adding on bits and pieces, N1 bonnet lip to start. Covered up that hack job I did on the bonnet well Trust rear pods were next along with the Boot and Roof spoiler and front sections of the N1 skirts and more strenuous sanding and polishing By now end of semester is coming up and the car has been put on hold, I drive it daily so It's still in a reasonably presentable condition. But when uni finishes I will be able to get it finished. Thanks for reading! P.s apologies for the mass info and picture dump. A lot has happened since I got her

Okay so first off hello. I'd like to begin this Build buy giving you a little history, before this I owned a 99 Subaru Forester, which started fairly stock N/A manual. The motor blew In that so I bought a wrx sti halfcut and transplanted that, plus a whole lot more. I then Sold that an purchased myself a very rough N/A R32 RB20DE Neo Had some nice extras (Genuine Nardi, Factory Cupholders) I then got into my first car accident and destroyed it. The reason theres no "Before" shot of this beauty is because I did not have the time to take one before totalling the poor thing. But it wasn't all bad because I got a fairly generous insurance payout for it, and purchased my current vehicle. A 1992 R32 Gts-t, This originally was one of the few automatic rb25de r32's to come out but has been converted since. And so we begin the build. The day I got her (minus strut brace) - had some ugly sideskirts and wheels straight out of Need for Speed. But there were big plans ahead. First had to make a Pod box to hide the filter. Next up decided to remove the sound deadening from the backseats, and boot (as it already was missing boot interior why not go the whole 9 yards?) Next up was interior, as it was already in pretty good shape I decided to try and keep it fairly simple. Got myself a sparco steering wheel, sparco quick release, nrg short boss kit along with a sparco shifter. I also change the ugly green and white dash cluster back to the original grey with purple led's I did the aircon unit and rest of the din area while I was at it all in purple. Also picked up some gtr seats which needed some fixing for faily cheap so sewed them up and put them in, much better! Moving onto the exterior I had big plans, slowly starting to gather all of the bolt on bits and pieces I'd be adding. This included the following: n1 vents for the gtr front bar gtr grill gtr bonnet with n1 lip n1 sideskirts gtr overfenders trust rear pods dmax roof wing dmax boot wing Slowly but surely I got it all together and began trimming up the fibreglass pieces and text fitting them. Got myself some new pipes made up and got rid of the cannon, (To Be Continued)

Wish I'd read this before I went ahead and painted mine. Would have been very helpful this looks tops! Great work.

Well it's too late to do anything with the gun now, best I can do it try and fix the paint I've got ahaha

I did 3 coats of color, didn't sand at all but let it dry for a few hours then did about 4 coats of clear, purely because I knew I'd probably be doing a lot of cutting back due to it being my first time painting.