r33_racer

If i did the formula properly, i worked out that your 17's rolling diameter was 627.8mm and your 16's rolling diameter would be 641.4mm. The difference is 13.6mm, which means your height will increase by half the difference, so 6.8mm. If someone wants to double check that, make sure i didnt fudge it up... Im fairly sure you work out your sidewall by finding its percentage of the tyre width and then add that twice to your rim diameter and that should equal your true rolling diameter:)

the ones we got came with the alcon brake kit....plastic coated, teflon lined...they are great...the old lines were perishing so it was prob good to get it done....teflon ss lines are gods greatest gift to mankind for performance applications...god i love em:) :laugh: Oil and water lines on the turbo are also done in it hehe

Everyone around the track will tell you chassis tuning and tyre selection is just as important if not more so then engine power/ torque. You can have 1million hp and 50000ft/lbs of torque....it will do sfa if it cant be put to the ground and more so used at the times when you need it, rather then when it decides to come on. Low power and a great chassis setup with good rubber can make for great times with a loose nut behind the wheel Hence why a goddamn barina(stock, with only suspension mods..wait i think it had a pod filter:)) can pass me at morgan park on short circuit track.

Chances are that even though you let the damper down on its softest settings....the problem is your springs. I had same problem, spring rates will be off the scale and that will be the single most negative feature to your traction quest. Get softer springs for the rear at least. SK will know whats best for a r32 setup.

It would all be pnuematic reliefs. Buses like trucks use air, as its inifinite in supply, so long as the compressor is filling the tanks, and there are no leaks or wankers constantly hitting the pikes for no reason. The noise people talk about when they change gears cant really be anything, unless that certain truck has an air assisted clutch...but truckies with some ability dont use the clutch at all unless they are stopping, starting, engaging PTO and in some trucks like volvos engaging splitter for high range (not all trucks have to use the clutch for this). I work around trucks a fair bit, and i drive them around occassionally around and out of the yard. So yeh...who knows, might be some truck with mechanical issues and is making funny noises.

just jap sell them i think...alot of wheel shops have them or can get them in too.

Hey, Im chasing someone in australia who sells Ikeya Formula parts. Need some front camber adjustment arms, the cusco ones we have are not really upto the job. If anyone knows anyone who sells them, can contact me please. Cheers.

more then likely its an alignment thats needed and rebalancing...but tie rod ends might be shagged and have slop in them...hopefully the suspension place will do it properly and check everything under there just to be sure.

well fill the form out, join a cams aff club and pay your 80 bux...if its still that i think...and welcome to the club!

The idea of the braided lines is to eliminate line expansion. When the old rubber lines expand you get a poor pedal response...the s/s braided lines which are teflon lined can handle the pressure and dont expand...increases your pedal feel and response. Its a definete for track work if you do it often.

well as soon as i get the block and head from machining i will mock fit the bottom end and check the measurements and see how much i want to deck the block, if at all. but 8:1 or 8.3:1 will be fine either way.

I have the cp spec sheet with me here...and like ive said before there is zero intake and exhaust valve relief, dish depth is nothing and dome height is 0. as you said cubes they run a 1.28" comp height. Hmm ok...looks like more research is needed to double check this again.

alrighty. Well the cp's state that with std headgasket and their 25/30 coversion pistons you will get about 8.3:1 and so far from what ive heard it seems to be at least half accurate. So then i guess my calcs worked out right if others are using same parts and getting the cr stated. Either way around that CR is all we are aiming for for the race car. So things are looking good so far.

The CP's im using have no dome in them..they are flat tops. So i dont believe that part is in my calculations.

I checked acl website and for a set of forged pistons for rb30et they stated on their spec sheet that the compression height is 1.261" Im assuming the forged piston is just a copy of the std one and maintains all std specs. So 1.26" is pretty close to std.

Just a question regarding pistons and compression ratio stuff for this conversion. Cubes I think stated a page or so ago that the compression height for a rb30 normally was 1.26". Now the CP pistons for the conversion I got have a compression height according to the spec sheet of 1.28". So my understanding is that the piston will actually sit .020" (.5mm) outside of the bore when at TDC. Is that correct? They reckon with a 1.2mm (.048") headgasket you should get about 8.3:1, now this worked out in my calcs if the head cc's up to about 64cc. If your head cc's up about 62cc then i think i worked it out to be about 8.5:1CR. I just want to check the formula here so hopefully im working this out right. CR = 1pot vol+head cc+deck height cc / head cc+deck height cc So if the piston sits .020" outta the bore then I should take that away from the headgasket thickness im running or plan on running and work it out from there...eg if i used a 1.5mm gasket, minus that .020" i would use 1mm in the equation to work out the CR, even though Im using a 1.5mm gasket. Does that sound correct? Or have I confused myself here?

I imagine they are not that expensive to replace. Things can only get better with new bushes. Everything should go back to being tight and responsive(feedback wise). If it doesnt work at least you got new bushes right? Its one problem fixed now that will need doing later on.

Just dont roll the tyre off the rim...that pressure is getting pretty low for a radial. If it doesnt want to roll off it might just slip around on the rim.

Well thats good to hear. Just that were upgrading the springs to some stronger Isky ones for the 25/30 just to make sure..we will be running around 22-25psi outta the 3540. Just wanted to check incase anyone had run into such problems before. Ok so someone has run into problems...well our redline on the 25/30 will be 7k due to standard harmonic dampner, so with the stronger springs we should be good. What turbo may i ask were you two running R31Nismoid/turbo87?

Does anyone know for sure or has had experience when valve float has started to occur in the 25's with whatever modifications they have had done? Im curious to know if it happens often or not at all, i have yet to see anyone complain about 25det and valve float. Ive heard its a problem in neo25's cause their springs are weaker then the previous models, is that true as well if anyone knows?

Also if your engine has been rebuilt on the sloppy side, knock can easily present no matter what amount of fuel or timing is in the map. Engine rebuilds need to be tight to eliminate the possibility of knocking from loose clearances. We currently have an rb25 with that problem.

Someone correct me if im wrong here but i dont think there is such a thing as a true chromemoly (chromemolybdenum) ring. If there is i imagine it would be HELL expensive. Cause i know in pipe its very very exxy. My understanding is that there are grey cast iron rings/ductile iron rings and steel rings. However the rings can have certain coatings or heat treatment which improves their base characteristics. Ive heard of rings being coated with chromium or molybdenum to help improve their wear rate, tensile and fatigue strengths. One problem ive heard of with coated rings is they can flake off in extreme conditions. Gas nitriding is one form of heat treatment that is done to steel rings to improve all their stats. I believe that they are the best thats available on a common performance level which most of us are on. I know acl piston rings have a gas nitrided steel top compression ring. Generally any performance ring set would be good enough for turbocharged engines. But ive heard from numerous people that the best rings are the nissan std ring set which i think would be steel nitrided top ring and prob ductile iron 2nd. Alot of japanese cars especially turbocharged come std with nitrided steel rings...good to know.

Yeh engineering shops will have the machinery to do most things...just dont get confused with the naming of the shops....we have an engineering workshop were we do fabrication and machining, they are two different things. There is a shop nextdoor to us which is just a metal and ally fabrication shop which just does bending, folding, rolling and welding only. Then there is a machine shop down the road which just does lathe work, milling, cnc work lathe/mill. That is probably the basic way of explaining the difference between the two. Just to avoid misinforming people. Generally if the place includes engineering in its title or name, then it can cope with both types of work, but it doesnt always mean that. Eg. place on the southside called Roblin Engineering or Samford Engineering i think they go by, and they are basically just a machine shop, with no fabrication side at all.

lol not all metal fab shops can do that...rethreading that one will require weld build up...then a lathe to machine it down to the right size to run a die over it and cut a new thread. Alot of fab shops dont have much machining equipment. Just so you are aware. Just thinking about that...sticking a gearknob with a bend in it will be a pain to hold and get to run true in the lathe... easy bodgy fix= grind off the stuffed part and cut the head of a bolt which suits the knob prob a m10 and weld it on....simple, precise and bodgy but will work. haha, dont tell anyone i suggested that.

haha...do the crime, do the time. Is that from judge dredd or something else? Or is it from that cartoon Cops? I vote for the wasting your time option. I dont think anyone will come up with something to get you out of this one. Only solution would be to get rid of the lead based shoes your wearing, maybe drive bare foot or something yeh?