r33_racer

The car will probably run like shit...but more then likely run well enough to drive for the tune. Why go that far for a tune? Isnt there someone more local who can do it?

SK told me that adj ex cam gear is of no power gain with poncams. Would that be enough said?

It will need another tune...as it will overfuel madly...ofcourse depending on how bigger injectors u put in. Id say 550cc will prob do you to the internal limit. Which it sounds like your wanting to keep within. Injectors will receive same pulse as the stockers did from the computer but will squirt a larger amount of fuel in as it interprets the dutycycle signal differently.

You cant argue with that mate. I believe someone else in this thread stated something about how if gear changes were made that little bit softer and smoother during the course of the drag they could improve reliability and limit the gear wear considerably. But then again who in drag racing would even think of doing that if its gonna slow them down by a fraction of a second? But then again how can you race if you keep stripping gears and spend your race weekend removing gearboxes instead of doing what you came to do!

just get them hpc coated...come out nice and silvery...cheap and wont chip or scratch off as easily as paint. ive seen a ca18det and rb25 covers done. Around 40 bux to do a set of covers.

i woudlnt see why not...arent rb25s 9:1 compression ratio standard? Correct me if im wrong.

lol...yeh someones found it and posted prob not realising that its been sitting here for over a year...wonder if he solved the gearbox problem???

also teeth per inch!

1st 60-65 2nd not sure havent looked 3rd hit about 170 around 5500rpm and backed off (need a good stretch of road) 4th dunno 5th dunno all std gearing with 17s 255 x 40 pro

thanks for that...i will check it...didnt think about that.

Such is Life! Im not saying what happened is right...its completely unethical....i doubt this bloke even has a conscience...but these things happen and sometimes you cant really put anything in place to prevent it as blitz has said. Its a pity though when u cant even trust your fellow man in such dealings. But i spose if i was caught out and i knew where he lived....id prob be in jail as a consequence.

also..while u have the crossmember out....grab a die grinder and extend the engine mount slots down about 1" roughly or as far as you can go in the designated area. That will fix any height issues you might have when the motor is in and the bonnet wont close. also...change timing belt and water pump regardless of km's or what condition you may think the motor is in. also you may have to check injectors....some people get them flow tested and cleaned or just replace them with other direct bolt in ones like gtr injectors or ca injectors even certain rx7 injectors are usable i believe.

Anyone??? surely someone has some idea of what to check? SK.....If your out there, please enlighten me.

correct me if im wrong..but wouldnt it throw off the weight balance as your putting a lighter motor in the front end, an sr being a shorter motor and all alloy... How does it sit over the front end in comparison to the rb?

try taking off the intake pipe and feeling the shaft...see if theres any play. good place to start.

cusco maybe? I believe whiteline can make custom ones too.

About 3mm worth of washers i think from memory...but thats from an rb20 cover. You need to measure the cover thickness and those rubber grommets that sit on outside and then replace that thickness and bolt it onto holding bracket. If you dont pack it out enough ull notice the fine shavings making a mess in your timing housing and the cas connecting tip on the camshaft breaking off mysteriously:) Took me 2 exhaust camshafts on my mates rb20 s13 to work that one out...lol.

Howdy I have this boosting problem with my turbo setup on my 33. I have a high mount setup which i got from 2fast2furious...t70 with mani and a 38mm wastgate...yes i read all the shit about them from people and the cheap copies and blah blah blah...ive had no problems with it so far and its more for testing purposes in regards to a circuit car currently being built up. The problem is when i have the avcr hooked up it doesnt control boost as i have set it. Eg...unhooked...it runs spring pressure of about 6-7 psi flat out...hooked up if i have it set to 14psi it will go as high as is possible throughout that rev range..highest so far is 1.85-1.9 bar or 26-28psi if thats what it is...its rather disturbing to see. I have noticed on the solenoid unit that the third hole is open with no plug or screw in it to block it off. Does anyone know if this should be blocked? My lines are setup with a t piece from piping after turbo one to bottom w/g and other to s/noid and one from s/noid (com) to top of w/g. Im fairly confident its correct. I currently drive around with the line from top of w/g unhooked from s/noid so it runs on spring pressure. It's got me rattled for the last week. Any help would be appreciated greatly as i need to fix this before i can get it tuned.

i also got a plenum even though i read SK's post in that UAS one about its not worth the money for the gains or lack of, and the rest of it..and i strongly believe his words in that there is no need to change the intake mani unless your changing internals to suit extra capacity...i chose to get one to simply remove the 2 metres of piping i have from fmic to throttle body and to unclutter the p.s of the bay as i need the room for intake piping, afm and pod to help my idle problem without a EIDS thingy from HKS. It looks nicer and wont be a pain in the ass to change plugs or check packs and check base timing etc etc....

well i have it and my tensioners are fine...my belt isnt loose or anything....still good...but i do have a new gates belt to go on it soon when i put cams in. so i will see if it goes away when i change it all. just gotta put new plenum and injectors in first. too much stuff and not enough time.

What sydneykid has said makes perfect sense, its like your trying to put two negatives together...a short stroke crank and a long stroke block...last time i watched playschool the square didnt exactly fit the circle...but being a boilermaker i learned a hammer and oxy can change that! It would be interesting to see how that would work if you accomplish it Turbine. (no offence intended)

umm no change in mine..still only in that range...i inspected teh tensioner and its fine all the bearings are smooth and not clunky. I did the same test on the other r33 and it made the same noise except it was smoother and quieter and wasnt as noticeable. I was thinking it might just be a certain point where the engine starts advancing timing enough for a major change in noise and vibrations from the moving parts...cause once u past that point the noise isnt there and nor is the vibrations. I had the car partially tuned today and there were no problems with it and the mechanics there didnt say anything about it. So it could just be nothing...but i will be changing my timing belt soon anyway when i do new camshafts so i may know something new then.

Hey, ive got a weird sorta clunking sound from the front timing housing area. Its more destinct from the exhaust side, as in you can hear it and feel it more accuratly with a stethascope from that side. Originally thought it was a cracked retainer so had a look over the exhaust camshaft side and found no scoring or marks on the lobes and inspected the retainers as best as possible without removing camshaft..all appear to be in good condition. So only thing i can think of is it might be the idler tensioner for the belt...the bearing clunking every revolution. the sound only becomes loud from about 1500 to 2500rpm after that it doesnt get any worse. The car has low kilometres and is in extremely good condition. all other bearings in pumps and idlers run smooth. there is no sounds from bottem end or harmonic balancer...has anyone got any ideas of what it might be..maybe something ive missed. I will be looking in housing this arvo to inspect the idler. Cheers.

what size is the tubing? looks close to 2 1/2 maybe 3"? what grade of steel is it? mild, s/s(unlikely), chromemoly, 350, 450??? obviousely its all bolt up? How is it joined through the top section? with bolts or has it been welded and needs to be rewelded once put back in car? Another quick question..In the 33's if you run straight past the steering wheel near door hinge, theres barely any room for hand movement around the standard steering wheel, that pic had an a/m wheel on it, do you know if this was to allow for the lack of room, cause i dont think you can legally remove an airbag wheel and replace it with a nonairbag sort. Cheers.

oh..whoops..sorry your right..i was lost there. Glad there is someone clearing things up...that makes alot more sense.