r33_racer

This should be amazing! Out of curiosity what sort of rpm are you thinking of turning it to? I'm keen to know what sort of piston speeds people think are possible, especially with a 94mm stroke. We currently turn ours to 8000rpm in our circuit car and that works out about 25m/s which is getting up there. Your engine being for drag purposes I suspect you are intending to turn it a little harder??

Was about the say you could just put a 50 grade oil in there and that will help bump it up. However that will all drop once it gets hot and thins out which is normal so no need to worry the first time you give it a good hard run and find the idle pressure sits a lot lower.

If you have it done that way then you should be fine. Once you get the car going you will know if its out a tooth. After I fit the timing belt and then set the belt tension I will turn the motor over a couple of times and make sure its all settled in and then re check that it all lines back up. Always a good practice to double check things, even more so when its a pretty critical part.

Easiest way is to setup number 1 on TDC with a dial indicator down the spark plug hole and get that bang on and then line up the cam gears with the backing plate using the backside of the dimpled tooth on cam gears. Once that is lined up your belt should go on quite easily and your timing should be pretty close to right. I have found that some backing plates have a little bit of slop in them and can rock left and right which can throw out your cam gear alignment, so try to get that centred. I haven't seen enough slop before that it throws it all out by a tooth when fitting the belt. Extra height wont throw anything out if you are setting it up with number 1 at TDC. If you are counting teeth like a 25/26 then you will run into issues. The way I outlined it and others have already is pretty well the only way to fit your timing belt and have it aligned correctly on an RB30det. Degreeing your cams properly is a far more involved practice, which you need a degree wheel, cam card information, adjustable cam gears and dial indicator with usually a custom made indicator rod so you can do the job correctly. But for most basic builds this is not required and in most cases cannot be done because people don't have the required parts fitted or tools to do it.

If you had a wideband sensor you could monitor afrs to see if its running differently, though I suspect there wouldn't be much difference so long as the ethanol content is much the same as before. We just filled up the race car with some of the new blend and the green colour was the first thing I noticed also. The bowser didn't have the new stickering or signage to indicate it was the new race blend either. Car ran fine at the track this morning, though my engine is a NA LS1 which isn't as critical with afrs as a turbo'd car. Do an ethanol content test on the new stuff and see what it comes up at maybe??

Wouldn't that be determined by the top mount fuel rail you get? I'm sure you are aware you cant use the side feed rail with top feed injectors. No adapters are needed for the manifold side. Normally you can use the std injector seal or a standard O ring that normally comes on the injector.

XKLABA - I hear ya about the Weldon pump bro. They are awesome, other then the noise! For a race car they are perfect, but road car not so much...

I have suffered this problem before too. In my experience extra torque wont be enough to stop it from lifting the head again. It is going to keep doing it unless your lucky and the gasket is still ok and you turn the power down back to roughly where it was on the old tune. Somewhere between your old power level and new power level there is too much cylinder pressure for the setup to handle. Otherwise you will just need to bite the bullet and rip head off, fit bigger head studs and MLS gasket and be done with it.

It's not too hard to drill and tap for gtr head studs in car. Its time consuming and painful but it can be done if the 11mm don't do the job. That's another option if all else fails.

Here is a few pictures of the front bar off the race car. Its not a home made splitter(carbon fibre bar made by a local bloke), but it might help with how to mount the bar and splitter and make it quick release. 4 mounting spigots with some simple latches on the top two to hold it in. The bottom two just slide into the receiver tubes (welded to the bottom of the radius rod mounts) and bottom out. Hopefully that might help with someone having a go at making/fitting something up.

Lap Time: 0:56.0156 (Lakeside Park) Modifications Car: Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS ASCAR (2001) Engine: Std LS1 w/mild cam, valve spring, ITB's, Haltech PS2000 Power: 320rwhp Suspension: Penske Coilovers Tyres: 15" 275 R6 Hoosier Brakes: AP Racing 6 Pot Front/AP Racing 4 Pot Rear Body weight: 1270kg full tank + driver (90kg) Timing: Natsoft

Yeh it does have straight cut gears which do whine abit, but not much worse then a loud exhaust system. But for street driving it wouldn't be the most aurally friendly for sure. The other issue is the top 1:1 for a street car as you said. We had to find a r200 diff that had a ratio so we could get a reasonable top speed, a s15 diff was used with a 3.69 ratio.

We have a Modena in our r33 gtst track car(rb34 680rwhp/1600kg w/driver & fuel). My god it is one of hell of an amazing box. The shifts are quick and positive, up and down with no clutch. 1 year in worth of racing and its still working like brand new. It seems to be handling the power and weight of the car well. Cant say the same for the 3.69 r200 diff though. We have broken one already, stripped teeth off crown wheel. FYI Modena top gear (6th) ratio is 1:1. The box is also a fair amount lighter then a standard rb25 box. From memory the difference was about 9-10kg. They can supply input shaft to suit whatever spline you want also, we were already running the chevy spline from the bigger PPG input shaft so they made it the same so we can reuse the clutch. Also we switched to the Modena from a PPG which we killed several times over. Just couldn't handle the load. I know not a lot of that is totally relevant to your build thread mate but thought it might be useful for others who are searching for info on potential gearboxes. Also this is based on racing experience, nothing on the street so I cant comment on how streetable the box may or may not be. The only downside is there is custom mounts to be made, and you need to knock up a shifter mount in the car as its a remote mounted shifter that is independent to the box. It is attached to the box via a short linkage. Then there is the pull cable/lever for the reverse/neutral lock out. Think I have covered everything that is worth knowing, hopefully it may help someone. I might have missed in the last few pages but what is an OS88 box worth?

8 year old thread revival ftw! lol

We have been using the truck intercooler clamps from local diesel truck spares. They are 3/4" wide and have a T bolt that has a slight bend in it before the thread. The other half has a locating tube for the bolt to stick through and you just do up the nut. Functions more like a stud. Can easily generate enough pressure to severely deform the pipe(alloy). Easy to assemble and disassemble with a ratchet. Actually they look almost exactly like a v band clamp just minus the v section. If you get them from the truck shop they are usually American made and all stainless, I believe Breeze is one of the brand names that comes to mind. Otherwise Plazmaman makes a similar clamp like the wiggins but a lot cheaper and still pretty good quality being Aussie made. Weldon ferrule with o ring seal and two half moon sections with a hinges joint of some kind. Much like the turbosmart v band clamps they supply with their wastegates.

Well said and summed up

I wasn't saying to run 0.5mm at all for every situation, more so that you can run smaller gaps if it helps with misfiring issues. You only need to run a gap that lets you rev right out with no misfiring... But yes with boosted/methanol too big a gap for us only made it break down. We found running 0.5mm worked the best for us with no power loss. We were running 0.9 and as we started making more and more power, it worked its way down to 0.5.

Dont be afraid about closing up plug gaps if you need to do it, especially with alcohol fuels like methanol/E85. We run 0.020"(0.5mm) on the race car. Using a CDI with crane Fireball CDI coil packs. bcp10es plugs, 9:1, methanol, 23psi 495rwkw. No ignition problems, even if it goes super rich which it does on cold start quite often going richer then 9:1 afr. We found going smaller on plug gaps didnt change power made, only stopped any missfires which would pop up if we tried going any larger then 0.025". It is possible the plugs may have gotten damaged from the water, maybe the porcelain body has developed a hairline crack somewhere, possible thermal shocking. Plugs are quite delicate, it doesn't take much to damage them. Its also surprising how easy it is to crack one when removing one while hot. What plugs do you have in there currently? Have you checked? Good chance the ones you are running are fine if they have been good up until this point.

That sounds like it. To be honest I don't know all the proper terminology, it's good someone does! Makes it easier to explain more accurately what I'm trying to describe.

We found on our car that it would toe out under droop, and toe in under compression. We were setting toe in at about 4mm overall and as we lifted the car and the wheel would droop the toe was going to +13mm toe out from the static -4mm toe in. Its a huge change, obviously the car wont change that much on the track as both wheels dont extend into full droop while racing, but ideally you dont want any change at all. So the short arm at the front had to be modified inorder to get enough adjustment so we could get the settings to stay where we wanted. However your ikeya formula arms may have more adjustment then ours. We have some cheap items on our car. You will find out if you can cure it or not when you start adjusting it all. We never really noticed it or checked to see what was happening in this regard until Glen Seton pointed it out to us, apparently its a common problem with most OEM IRS setups or atleast that is what he has found when setting up alot of road car turn race car suspensions for circuit work.

As I was saying earlier on, I found the traction arms is what causes the dynamic toe problem with r33's. I had to modify an adjustable one in order to get enough range so I could tune it out so it stays at what we set it at statically. From memory I had to shorten the links threaded body by about 1/2" overall (1/4" each end) so the toe would stay fixed no matter what arc the rear wheels traveled through. That fix and the removal of the rear sway bar made a remarkable difference in rear end grip. That is something to look at also. Our rear end grip issue has been abit of struggle as we run alot more horsepower then most, however our 33 also weighs about 1600kg with driver and fuel....

Its possible you have a dud plug. Have you tried just swapping a plug to another cylinder or putting a new plug in number 1? I have seen plugs spark when tested outside engine but don't fire properly when installed. Considering a plug is worth about 4-5 bucks its an easy and cheap test.

What lash is the exhaust set at? Maybe its too loose??

Good to know that its the right way then. Heading in the right direction.

With those alignment settings you usually want 2-4mm toe out on the front, are you saying have 2.8mm of toe out or toe in? Honestly at this level, dont worry about weight balance yet. If it was me I would be just pulling all the weight I can out to reduce overall weight. R33's are not the best circuit car, they are heavy and cumbersome....but they are fun!