Chris Wilson

Sorted now, the cable where it is anchored by the selctor lever on the `box had split. Pushing the lever forward worked fine, pulling it back, (especially when forced, if stuck in park....) resulted in the outer moving, and the inner staying still. Used cable on its way, thanks gentlemen!

Thanks for the pdf file! That's certainly useful, but still could do with a photo of a box out of the car showing the linkage as fitted. Much appreciated KiwiRS4T, thanks very much mate

Thanks for the PM Hugh, my e-mail is [email protected] I have also PM'd you back with the address. Cheer!

The wife has once again put her Stagea RS4 automatic in Park before it came to a complete standstill and jammed the park pawl in. Normally a bit of rocking of the car, to and fro, releases it, but this time she decided brute force on the selector lever was the answer and something under the car, in the linkage, has bent. I can see the cable is moving inside the car, above the tunnel, but underneath? Who knows? One can feel the friction of something moving, but not freely. the lever will select all gear positions, but the parking pawl remains resolutely in place... I suspect a bent cable or lever, but could do with a diagram or photo of the linkage at the `box end. so I know what I am letting myself in for tomorrow, as I can't get it into the workshop, and it will have to be done outside, on my back. I had to tow it up the drive with the back end on a trolley jack. Luckily this occurred at the gate, and not out in the sticks which is her route back from work. BLOODY women.... My FAST set up is not on my current PC, and I am not 100% sure it even had the RS4 Stagea on it anyway. Can anyone help please? Thanks.

Ultra rare unused and brand new HKS cast iron single turbo manifold. Forget cracking, warping tubular manifolds, these now very rare beauties are built to last, and they flow extremely well, too. This has been professionally cerrachrome coated for protection and heat retention from new, and is unused, and unfitted. Complete with HKS wastegate, and coated wastegate elbow, again of course, unused. It's the silver cerrachrome coated manifold in the photos, with the coated wastegate elbow. I am wanting £695 for this, given it's new and it's going to give far less hassle than a tubular affair. The price includes the new HKS w/gate and the mounting elbow for it. The cerrachrome coating cost £205 alone, five years or so ago. Photos at HKS photos Reply to [email protected] or ring me on 07971-952084 No PM's please. I am in the UK but International shipping is not a problem, I found it in the USA initially, but the engine has stayed twin turbo so it never got utilised.

To save me the hassle has anyone accurately scaled the resistance calibration of the 2 in series fuel level sensors in an R33 GTR stock fuel tank to work with a digital dash or data logger? Thanks.

Well spotted, I have just had a look at the Race Render template settings and I have put the text setting for the injector percent open time on top of the throttle position bar graph... It's very configurable, obviously TOO configurable for the time of night I was playing with it The throttle position bar scaling is correct, but the figures in it are the same as the standalone figures for the throttle position.

I am in the UK, but try and keep an eye on all the Skyline sites. Cheers. I may have another go at doing a better synch. I have sold my Go Pro Hero camera and for next season will either get the Motec stuff if they come good on their intent to offer a higher resolution camera setup, or buy a camera that time stamps the video. The GPS data channels have a GPS time function, so tying up the two should be far easier then. Cheers.

Yes, I am just trying this manual data overlay app (Race Render, it's me, not the app as such, it's trickier than I imagined...), I am beginning to wonder just how far from synched this is, take it with a pinch of salt, but you get the basic idea. Just shut one eye Automagical synching is available from Motec, but the bank manager is dubious about its merits this month

Real world data. Rb26 at 86.5 bore, stock stroke, all steel internals (endurance spec build, probably overkill, but I hate failures), Tomei 280 degree 10.8 mm lift cams, Tomei cooling channel pistons at stock CR, Motec M800 ecu, stock TB's, stock CR, mildly ported head, all manifolds port aligned, stock ported cast manifolds, NO AFM's, MAP / Throttle based but with 4D mapping, stock elbows, -10 turbos, 3 inch ultra quiet exhaust (98Db at 2/3 max rpm static), 850 CC injectors off single 044 pump, in a GTS-T RWD shell. 1.2 bar boot. Motec shows absolute, not gauge pressure. mikey whatsisname speaks a lot of sense, IMHO. http://www.gatesgarth.com/datalog.png In car with basic data overlay from same track day: Manually synched to video, so a tad out, sorry. I want to try the bigger -10 turbine housings. Car is a pussy cat on the road, no shuffle at all, totally pleasant off boost and at cruise. Would benefit from a less restrictive exhaust system, exhaust manifold pressure V boost pressure ratio is not brilliant, but here in the UK noise is a major issue. Car runs from the roadside pump Shell V power, no det, no issues.

Anyone found any Hall effect sensors that fit easily in place of the stock magnetic ABS ones ones? I want to add wheel speed sensing to my ecu, and a motorsport orientated ABS system to my R33 GTR. Thanks.

Standard 0 to 5 volt output, but I have not found a G force V voltage output curve yet.

I am talking about the sensor under the glove box on the transmission tunnel, is there any data on it? Is it 2 axis? How many G does it read up to? What does it output and what voltage input does it have? Anything like that would be nice! Thanks.

Hi, I am the original poster from way back The car has what I believe is a Fujitsumo system (is that how it's spelt?) and a fairly big slience where the cat would be. On 280 degree, 10.5 mm lift cams through Garrett 2860 -10 turbos with the smaller turbine size option, it makes between 95 and 98 Db @ .5 meter away from, and at 45 degrees to the tailpipe, on an RAC MSA noise meter, tested by RAC MSA scrutineers here in the UK. I am sure a freer flowing system could unlock more power through less back pressure, but I am am adamant I will not go to track days wondering if the thing will pass a noise test or not, nor have to spend hours packing borderline re packable silencers every time it goes anywhere I will try and get a photo of the old system that I found for it, the car should be on the ramp today or tomorrow, I am only going by hearsay as to the make, maybe someone will recognise it? It will need replacing before too long, although it's still pretty sound (pardon the pun...) at the moment. Thanks for the replies.

Does anyone know of any commercially available brake cooling ducts to feed air to the eyes of the front brake discs on an R33 GTR? I am imagining a moulded dish with a fitting to take a flexi hose fed from a front bumper aperture. Thanks.

Are you happy to sell small or even single quantities and ship to the UK? Can you supply the terminals, or terminals with tails to suit the connector shells, too? Thanks.

I am in the UK, may I use PM or preferably e-mail instead? There's an interesting thread on one of the UK Skyline forums, here: http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/142215-aftermarket-wiring-harnesses-new-post.html

Has anyone successfully installed Nissan's FAST parts database to a laptop so it doesn't need any CD's? I want it on my laptop showing just Skyline models, ideally, and don't want to have to use a CD in the drive bay. Thanks.

I am not an electronics guru at all, but this may help, or not, but I shall post it anyway I have an RB26 engine running a Motec M800 ecu here in the UK. It runs the coils individually, as stock, not in wasted spark format. It started eating stock igniter boxes nearly straight away, and all were new ones. The symptoms were it would be fine until I took it on track, and after say 6 laps it would start to miss. By the time I got it back to the pits it would have dropped at least one cylinder. Let it cool, or fit another igniter it was OK again. I got through 3 new genuine boxes, and the cost was getting ridiculous. My mapper, an ex Motec Australia guy called Dave Rowe, took some dwell out and it seemed to fix things, but I never felt it ran as strongly through peak torque. I got two Bosch triple igniter modules. I chose those beacause I could borrow them off my Volvo V90 road car, it has two for its straight six lump, and because Motec had the pinouts for them. I extended the wiring away from the ludicrous place Nissan put the stock igniter, over to the RH inner wing and mounted the Bosch igniters on a nice big alloy heat sink, bolted in turn to the inner wing sheet metal. I turned the dwell back up and the car has done lots of track days and many hours trouble free running, The Bosch igniters barely get warm. I would use these igniter boxes on any other RB engines I build now, they are cheap, have readily available new connector shells and contacts, and they fixed my issues. I am now toying with having a look inside one of my stock Nissan boxes, but my problem was heat related and intermittent. Could a burnt track act that way? Great forum by the way, some serious technical issues are addressed and usually soundly beaten

Through the loom

I have gone with Nismo bushes, but my old press is leaking again and I really need something bigger, so I have bought a 50 tonne unit off Ebay I hope to pick up tomorrow. I will photo the job if you want. I am slightly spoilt in having a lathe and Bridgeport mill that allows me to make mandrels fairly easily, but looking at the bushes I would think a big vice would press them in OK.

Can you buy whatever bushes or bearings are within the top eye of the front "swan neck" suspension uprights on an R33 GTS-t? Mine have play in them. The pert I need the bushes for is circled in the parts illustration below. Thanks.

A week ago and I would have agreed that hard pipe kits were for show and a waste of money. My UK supplier of parts RB Motorsport never tried to hard sell me anything and I was surprised they were adamant that running well over stock boost the standard hoses could be unreliable, but given the price of the well known name kits were I carried on running stock. I was at a UK race circuit last week doing a test day and the hose that goes to the LH side I/C inlet burst asunder. I was VERY lucky that RB had a spare stock hose to hand and someone was quite by chance doming to the circuit from their premises 70 miles away that very morning. If not it would have been a costly waste and a a very frustrating day, having done only three laps. I believe the two hoses nearest the turbo outlets, and pre intercooler are the ones that often go, as pre intercooler means very hot air temps. Add old age and raised boost and they can cry enough. I now believe these kits have some definite merit.

Toyota have a dedicated connector repair manual and parts list (massive and daunting to look at, I have it here for geeks): http://www.chriswilson.tv/repair.pdf Do Nissan have a parts listing for replacement engine loom connector shells and terminals? Thanks.

Wow Ryan, that's one way to find out, thanks very much for this. Wonder why there are so many wires to the unit if it's just a simple low fuel light off / on signal though? I would have thought it would only need two wires...It appears to have three reed switches on the circuit board, as if it gives three signals for differing fuel heights, again, seems needlessly complex. Are the three rings floats? Are they magnetic? Again, great info, thanks Ryan!