Tosseef

Have checked all the wires and terminals behind the cluster I'm getting 0v low and 1.9v high @ 80 Ohms.

Does anyone know if the fuel level sender wires go straight to the dash or somewhere else first? My gauge has been stuck on 3/4 for a while now. I've had the sender out and it was all clean and I haven't disrupted any of the wiring in the kick panel. I've also put a spare fuel gauge in and it did the same thing. So I'm thinking of running fresh wires once I can confirm the sender wires go directly to the dash.

No fellow sparkles in here?

It's OK. I will share my findings for anyone asking the same questions. Pictured below are the remaining wires and what they do. Red - 2 Orange - 1 Blue - Park Yellow - Drive

Where's all the experts gone?

Thanks to the manual conversion guide on here, I know that the black, green and white wires on the auto loom are earth, reverse and neutral respectively. Are they negative or positive switching? And also is it safe to assume the remaining wires are for P, D, 1 and 2?

I'm using an R33 GT-R pedal which needed modification to fit. When bolted flush to the firewall it also depressed the rod which gave me clutch slip on idle. So I put 10mm spacers behind the pedal and wound the adjuster rod out bit by bit till I got a full clutch engagement and disengagement. Car's been fine ever since. Although the revs do spike when the clutch is depressed. So will be wiring the neutral switch back in.

Update on this. Turned out to be a badly adjusted clutch rod.

Did you get it sorted in the end bud?

Yes you can. ?

Mine was about £38 off eBay. Not sure what that equates to where you are.

Ok. I ordered one for an Evo IX and it's the exact same diameter part. Just in case you have trouble locating one.

Have you just fitted a pull type clutch too? If so I reckon the bearing locking ring has fallen out with the input shaft as it did to me. The gearboxes go in at a steep angle. At least mine did since I was 20 inches off the floor.

Exedy Stage 1 OEM spec pull type for a 26 but on my 25.

Wrecker jobbiethen. Here in the UK they're all postage from Australia.

Does anyone have any ideas which trans tunnel gear shifter boots are a direct fit for the C34's? I'm talking about the 4 bolt one that stops weather and rodents getting in. They don't seem to be listed in the nissan parts catalogue either! Elusive ba$#%ds.

Still has the auto ECU.

Neither does my S1.

Clutch switch? Come again? ? Neutral switch, the guide on here says not to connect to the auto ECU which I still have. But others say to connect it. IACV was cleaned when it was still auto. Never had issues with it. This has only started after the conversion. No wiring other than the inhibitor switch was touched.

Ah. So do I wire up the neutral switch?

Has anyone else experienced this? Any ideas?

As title. Can anyone help with a wiring diagram for the auto C34 inhibitor switch circuit please?

Haha that came across my mind too but on removing the box today I found the problem. There's a release bearing locking ring/clip missing from my clutch kit. Sold separately unfortunately.

Anyone....?