Ruthr33

Hello. Got my t67 for sale, it's 10cm rear vband, non wastegate. Only 1000kms old. It's in perfect working order. Pretty cool turbo. $550 That's half price. Plus postage.

Gts30t?

I'm just about finished my rb2530. Im gonna get a tune for both t67 and td06 20g. That way I can decide for myself what I like best threw the seat of my pants. Not interested in dyno numbers. I'm interested in what I have under my foot. It's purely for street now. But I'd like to have the option of changing turbo to suit my wants and if I don't like it il change back. (I can burn money easily) but I'm not getting gt3076

Hello. Does any one know if I could buy a td06 20g sl2 cartridge and bolt my t67 housings on it? The front one is 4" and the rear is 10cm v band t3 Or would it be better to buy the whole unit and sell my t67.

$1100

Rb25det gtst

R33 power fc Hand controller 2x z32 afms and plug (one spare) Datalogit and cables Power fc electronic boost controller $1275 willing to post. Still in my car running. So will only sell as a whole kit, will not seperate. Im after a r33 stock ecu aswell. Can be broken.

I've chosen 1.5 middle blank the rear and 1.4 to external feed my non Neo head. Hope it's ok. I know it's the wrong thread but I've already got my head recond. But haven't welded the water jacket. Gonna grub screw the oil feed. With my rb30 head gasket there's only 1.5 mm surface area on the side of the water jacket. Has any one had done it this way and had success? It's kinda tricky where I live to get it welded and skimmed. The freight would be the cost of a second hand head.

If it had a map sensor the car would drive with no cooler pipe wouldn't it?

Hate starting new topics every question I have so I'll try to keep them here. Got my second hand rb30 on a engine stand. Tapped and pulled the crank gear off. Can I buy a a rb25 one to replace it or does it have to be rb30? Pulled the oil pump of to shim the spring 2mm and replace the front seal. I got a bit excited and pulled the pump apart to check for any wearing. I'll clean it up and put back togeather. Do the screws have a torque setting and do they have to be lock tighted?

Is this still r33? I've got freddy manifold. Was thinking just slot the mounts 19mm and use the stock mounts.. Split the 38mm difference. Is this rite?

Probably a needle valve of some sort. Drill 2 holes in the side of the block before it gets to the head, one out and then one back in. It seems pretty basic to me. Haven't put to much thort into it yet. I'm sure someone would have done it befor

Haha thanks for the advice. There's so much to read and so many threads. I wouldn't want to have no oil pressure at idle that's for sure. Or 150psi at idle, or catch can filling up. Just wanna drive it like its stolen/to the supermarket. I'm just gonna make my own adjustable setup both on the pump and on the side of the block and fine tune it from there. It's gonna take all the guess work out. Also it would be a prick to hav to take it all out again for the sake of about 40 bux worth of fittings.

Ok enuf reading. It's 2016. Gonna put my stock rb30 block in. Stock rb30e pump. What restricters. For internal vct feed. S2rb25 head. 1x1.5? Thanks. I hav s2 oil pump in the car but I want my motor to be complete when i put the 3.0 in

Sell it one day. Makes me feel 20 still

I'm Thinkn rb30. Same turbo with 8cm for street if that's possible?

I'd love to find my dyno sheet. I think I threw it out the window in embarrassment. But my s2 rb25det t67 got 350hp. Hub dyno. I asked the tuner why it only made that and he said its ure setup. I didn't bother asking any more info.

Hmm that's what I thought. I think it's time to part out the motor and go back to stock.

This is axactly where the sound is comming from. What can I do with this apart from get a new shell? I'd be to scared to see what's under the cam. I bet the oil supply is blocked with alloy aswell although there is signs of oil on the cam. I'm not havn a good run I tell ya. I'd love to burn it.

Yeh well I'm doubting the tuner touched the timing gun or cas as I had it set to spot on 15 b4. His tuning time was only an hour or so before he rang me back. So I'm assuming it would be the same. All I can do is ring him and ask but he won't remember it was months ago.

Stupid knocking is back.. It's noisy on idle. And up to 2000 revs. Comming from the right hand cam on cylinder 1. It's not the cambelt. What noise does lifters make? I thought they were more tap tap tap. Mines knock knock knock. Anyways cleaned coils and used dialectic grease to try sort my miss. Dunno if it done anything. Looked like number 4 was a little unburnt so hoping I've cleaned that up. Tps volts were good. When I hold it at 3000 rpm now it fluctuates from 2800-3100 wtf is that? Somthing air related I bet.

Yeh I'll give it a go tommoro although it's tight under there. I cleaned it 2 years ago only done 500kms should be clean. Dunno about function tho. Gonna clean the spitfires and put dialectiric grease around the boots and clips. Got rid of the knocking in the front as it came bak. Cambelt was too loose. Gonna put a resister and eliminate the knock sensors aswell. my wiring might have been poor when I put the freddy manifold 2 years ago although it seems to read ok. Gonna check fault codes and also tps volts

Hijack, I have fpr800, seems to work ok. The only thing that bugs me I'm not allowed to touch the throttle when the car is dead cold for the first minit or it will stall. If I increase the throttle pump will that affect the tune when it's warm or is there a seperate cold pump

I just set it to 15 just then. Yeh it was out was on about 18. it seems to get better when it's running at 80degreese. I can only hear it defiantly when I hold it at 3000 in neutral. There's somthing defiantly there or there abouts. So frustrating.

I'll be sure to set the base timing again I'll do that next. yes I had the cas out because I heard knocking from the cam cover. one of the bearings has collapsed, I some oil in it and put it back in and the knock has gone. Here's the thing about the tune. In had the car on the trailer, drove 2200kms broome to Perth. Dropped it at the tuners, picked it up. Drove to the race track the next day unloaded it. Done a drift session. A passenger in the car said to me "this thing has a miss fire". I ignored it and continued to drift as it performed well. The next day I drove 2200kms home. (Yes 2200kms). I have never driven the car since. That piss want tuner should have picked up the miss. Does anyone want the shops name?