thebawse

I have them in my R33 gts25t as a cheap alternative to BC golds. The car is my daily and is (in my mind) more than tolerable. I got mine with 8kg front and 6kg rear. 10 000km so far so good! Would recommend.

Perfect opportunity to throw on some braided lines! Easier to manage than the steel ones and can be routed wherever.

Easy enough to take off the IAC and clean it, in fact it's on my list of things to do this weekend. There's a guide to cleaning the IAC on here somewhere. Let us know how you go.

Does it drive/boost/cruise okay? Did you change anything else at the time? What happens if you drive, stop and then give it gas to stop it stalling?

What ecu are you running? The consult port will only work with a standard ecu. As for the port itself, it's called 'Consult' and is pre OBD2. You need to get a special cable and software to use it. Check this out: http://www.ecutalk.com/interface.aspx

+1 for earthing. I recently repositioned and tightened up my battery terminals and earthing points for the same reasons as you (dimming lights, idle hunting etc) and noticed a big improvement straight away. You might, like me, even consider upgrading to 2 or 0ga battery cables. I'm not familiar with R32 mechanical HICAS but I had issues similar to you on my R33 and ended up locking it out. I'm sure it is a good system when it's working well but I could be fcked with it.

I'm sending it back to the Nissan dealer for them to have a look. I'll let you know what they say.

Yeah mate all belts were in line and are undamaged, no nicks out of them or any cracks. Comparing the old pump with the new, the new one does seem to be a bit lighter and not of the same quality. That could be my imagination telling me what I want to hear though.

Haha, that's a definite no on the working out! My arms got tired after just doing this job. The parts were from a Nissan dealer, more specifically from here: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=715037326 I put quotes around genuine as the cam belt came in a package labelled 'A31 RB20DE' and the water pump is marked '3Y07' which is different from the old one. I know neither of these things are necessarily bad and they might both be genuine and correct parts for an RB25 so hopefully one of you guys can confirm this for me so I can put that one to rest?

Water pump bolts were torqued to spec. The belt wasn't tensioned as I don't have a belt tensioner, but I was able to give the belt a 1/4 turn on the top and bottom. It took less than 30kms for this to happen. Would it have a chip out of it like that if the belt was over tight? I'd classify myself as an 'advanced' DIYer. First time doing a cam belt change but not the first time dealing with auxiliary belts.

Hi guys. On the weekend I did the cam belt, tensioners + water pump on my gts25t with brand new 'genuine' Nissan parts. All went smoothly and the car was running fine till this afternoon + a bit of 'spirited' driving caused this: The crack runs about 240degrees around the shaft and there is a chip out of it as you can see. My question is obvious, WHY? Was my alternator belt so tight it caused this? I didn't use a belt tensioner but I know it wasn't overly tight and the belt is in good condition as is the alternator pulley. Or was the water pump a faulty product? Can anyone confirm if it is 'genuine' based on this number? I just want to get a heads up before I go back to the seller.

Assuming you want to keep power steering but leave out HICAS, you can check this out: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/412603-diydisable-hicas-retain-power-steering-for-free/ The HICAS ECU controls the proportional power steering by sending power to a solenoid on the rack, if you take it out, there is no power to the solenoid and you lose power steering. I've done the same thing to my car when the HICAS light came on and I was too lazy to fix/diagnose. 10 000km and no issues and the car doesn't feel too light at speed either.

The longest (and hardest) part of the job is cracking the hub side bolt. You'll need a decent length spanner and wrapping a rag around it doesn't hurt either. The inner bolt is much easier, probably because it will have been loosened in the past for alignments. I got mine done in just over an hour with help.