Jump to content
SAU Community

MotHot

Members
  • Posts

    34
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Posts posted by MotHot

  1. On 09/03/2021 at 3:38 AM, R32 TT said:

    That said, I ran mine happily for some years at sub 120krpm making 650-700hp at hubs and spinning to 7000-7500rpm on both 3.0 and now Nitto 3.2.  Intake temps were ok - but it didn't want to make any more power.  It has finally let go just two weekends ago.    We had recently added launch control which may or may not have contributed (or at least shortened its life).

    Turbine wheel broke I suppose?

  2. Hey Tai!

    Just finished reading your thread on soarercentral from start to finish.

    Very nice build and a lot of cool selfmade stuff in there.

    The electronic wastegate actuator is awesome, but setting it up + 3d printing parts for it is way out of my league.

    Another question though:

    With your latest dyno session, whats the turbo shaft speed that your speed sensor is reading at max?

    Thanks and have a nice weekend!

  3. 8 minutes ago, taijohnsen said:

    The e-iwg cost wasn't too bad (less than the turbosmart actually), but yes, you will have to adapt it to fit and have an ecu that can drive it.

    Position data is nice.

    I thought the supra parts were already a few hundred bucks alone?

    Do you have a list of items that are needed for the e-iwg?

    Can't seem to find anything useful with google.

  4. @Timmaz300 looking really good so far, keep up the good work!

     

    @all: A friend of mine is collecting parts at the moment to go for about 600 (engine) hp and has snacked up a 8374 IWG.

    What are the options for the wastegate actuator on the IWG EFRs?

    Electronic actuator (with supra parts) as suggested in this thread in late August will probably be too expensive for him (500+ $/€ ?), because he just spent loads of money on parts. Are there even any complete kits available now or is it still "do it yourself"-style?

    The OEM actuator on the EFRs are the known weakpoint on the IWG EFRs, at least thats what this thread and similar threads on other forums suggest. So I wouldn't recommend this to him. If he does go this route, he will definetely need the high boost canister, because otherwise he wouldn't even be able to reach around 15 psi?!

    This leaves us with conventional aftermarket actuators, for example from turbosmart.

    Twin Port is probably the way to go here, because the price difference is not that big. Right?

    What about the position sensor? Is this necessary on a road car or similar to the BW turbo speed sensor (not a must, but very nice to have) or not necessary at all?

    Is there a noable difference in performance between the GenV and the IWG-75 twin port turbosmart actuator?

    Thanks guys 🙂

    And regards from Germany!

  5. On 02/09/2020 at 1:27 PM, Full-Race Geoff said:

    ^^^^ if you want the wastegate to open it does.  if you want the wastegate to close, it does.  these MHI actuators mean we are no longer constrained by mechanical spring forces and pressure differentials

    How much more work is it to get something like this setup working?

    I bought a turbosmart actuator for my IWG 7064 (on a rb25det), which I haven't installed yet.

    Not sure if I should go to an electronic actuator instead.

  6. On 31/08/2020 at 5:59 PM, Full-Race Geoff said:

    we've been working on these setups quite a lot.  The electronic actuator from the b58 supra has 20mm stroke which is a little bit long IMO but it does work!

    In what use cases does an electronically controlled wastegate make the most sense?

    Small engine w/ small turbo, sm engine /w big turbo, big engine w/ sm turbo, big engine w/ big turbo?

     

  7. On 7/19/2018 at 10:20 PM, RICE RACING said:

    Datsun in back ground..... needed a DICKASS full brake upgrade, bedding in brakes now :)

    Slightly offtopic - is that a tablet in the center console?

    If yes, what software does it use to display stuff? Windows or Android and what app?

    Thanks ?

     

    @Topic:

    My car currently has some issues with my IWG 7064 spooling about ~600 RPM later than normal.

    Had full boost @ around 3k RPM before, now it feels laggier and has full boost @ around 3,6-3,7k RPM.

    Feels a little like running a silencer.

    Already checked exhaust (running 3" custom made with exhaust flap) for problems, but catalysator is still intact, flap still working as intended and no other blockages.

    Intake side of turbo looks normal, exhaust side would need downpipe removal (didn't do that yet).

    Collegue mentioned it could be the spring in the wastegate actuator is either not preloaded correctly (screws would have to come lose?) or just can't hold the wastegate shut at low RPM. It has about 20k miles on it already, so who knows?

    Looking at getting a turbo smart 2 port actuator anyway, so will be probably tackle that over the next week/months. Sadly you need a new 4-port mac valve as well for that, which the my local supplier doesn't sell.

    Another thing to change would be the amount of blow off valves I have (yeah, you read that right) - I'm currently using the internal EFR blow off, as well as a HKS SSQV. Local supplier wondered how the hell we got that setup working and strongly suggested to remove one of the blow offs. Which will probably be the EFR blow off, not for technical reasons but mainly for the nicer sound of the HKS (form/sound follows function for me on this one).

     

    Current spec list (no changes since the last mapping session till the problem presented itself some time ago):

    RB25DET Neo (OEM pistons, Eagle rods, ARP head studs, Cosworth metal head gasket)
    Borg Warner EFR 7064 T3 IWG
    6boost exhaust manifold
    Plazmaman intake manifold
    (noname) big FMIC 
    Apexi air intake
    7xx cc Bosch injectors
    LS2 coils
    Walbro fuel pump
    Tomei Poncams Type B (260° In/Ex, 9,15 Lift In/Ex)
    custom 3" downpipe & exhaust
    Link G4 ECU
    

     

    May be someone wants to take a guess ?

  8. 9 hours ago, Lithium said:

    Won't be on the dyno this weekend, not sure when we will be able to do that but expect months to be a more appropriate measure for what to expect than days.

    Have you adjusted the dwell to suit the LS2 coils ?

    Ah, okay.

    Yes, dwell was adjusted for the LS2.

     

    Well i should have the new EFR turbo test fitted on the new manifold tomorrow, we can then fab the new dump and position the twin gates etc... Will get some pics and video of the setup coming together...  Hopefully the parts will get coated quickly and we can have the car running in a week or two ready to go to Jez to tune...

    RB25NEO internally stock engine with EFR8374 1.05ewg... Dedicated circuit car so should be an interesting swap from the HTA3076 that has served me well for years...

    What kind of power are you looking to make and what did the HTA previously make?

    I'd be more than concerned to turn the boost up with a stock engine.

     

    So, this is finally happening. EFR 6758 twins with Full-Race kit setup.

    Sweet :)

  9. So good to start seeing this thread take off again :)

     

    @Lithium: Nice work so far. Hoping to see a 20 PSI dyno this weekend :D

    And now i know what to order next for my 7064 setup to finally hold to the door uh i mean boost... :D

    Also 300KW at the wheels will most likely need a little over 20 PSI.

    I made 285 @ the wheels with about 21 PSI, when I had the stock manifold on my RB25 Neo.

    Wasn't pushed to the limit though, as we had no EGT and started getting misfires at above 23 PSI.

     

    Actually the misfire issue is still persisting with my current setup (plazmaman intake, 6boost exhaust manifold).

    Doesn't matter if I use splitfires (mileage unknown) or LS2 coils either... will get the CAS replaced in the next weeks, but not sure if that will solve anything.

  10. On 18.1.2017 at 10:10 PM, blah_blah said:

    So we are saying then a 7670 wont fit stock position in an RB25?

    Not sure on that, but could be possible.

     

    On 19.1.2017 at 4:06 AM, discopotato03 said:

    Mothot I thought of the T3 single scroll IW version too and it will be very interesting to see your results .

    I had this running from mid 2015 till mid 2016.

    Short spec list:

    RB25DET Neo (OEM pistons, Eagle con rods, ARP head studs, Cosworth metal head gasket)
    Borg Warner EFR 7064 T3 IWG
    OEM intake & exhaust manifold
    big FMIC (noname?)
    Apexi pod air filter
    OEM R35 GTR injectors (570cc)
    Walbro in tank fuel pump
    Z32 AFM
    Tomei Poncams Type B (260° In/Ex, 9,15 Lift In/Ex)
    custom 3" stainless steel downpipe
    100 or 200 cell cat (not sure which, very budget piece nonetheless)
    Blitz Nür Spec R exhaust

     

    Results from a roller dyno mid 2015, see below.

    Its all german, so i'm gonna help you guys out a bit:

    DIN-Leistung = crank HP

    Rad-Leistung = wheel HP

    The rest should be pretty obvious.

    This run was with max boost of about 1.5 bar / 22 PSI. Dropping off to around 1,3 bar / 19 PSI at max RPM.

    Did another run on low boost (1 bar / 14,5 PSI) that yielded 353 PS / 260 KW / 474 NM at the crank, 314 PS / 231 KW at the wheels.

    The graph doesn't really show how it drove on the street:

    Boost coming on from about 2K RPM and 1 bar / 14,5 PSI at 3K RPM, full boost before 3500 RPM.

    Exactly what I wanted :-)

    DSC_1241b.jpg

     

    On 24.1.2017 at 5:25 AM, VFRegal said:

    @MotHot Are you having any issues with controlling boost ?

    As you can see from the dyno sheet, after 6K RPM boost is falling off.

    Probably because the exhaust side is too small for the RB25.

    • Like 1
  11. Keep in mind there is very (!) limited room when using a 7064 or 7670 with the OEM manifold on the RB25, even more so on the R34 GTT than on the R33 GTST (strut tower on the R34 is about 1,5cm closer to the engine). Not sure if using an adaptor to go twinscroll would make it easier or harder.

    The 7163 is a smaller turbo (shorter as well), because it's B1 frame and not B2 frame like the 7064 and bigger.

    I have a 7064 T3 on my OEM manifold on the R34 GTT at the moment, but wouldn't do it again. We even had to remove the AC because making the downpipe with the AC in would have been much harder (though probably not impossible). Other than that my EGT are way high, not sure why that is, but decided to go 6 boost top mount + plazmaman intake anyway.

    Edit: If I had to choose again, I'd probably go 7163 (wasn't available at the time I purchased my 7064).

    Pictures attached for reference (BW EFR 7064 T3 IWG, OEM manifold RB25DET Neo, R34 GTT).

    IMAG3585.jpg

    IMAG3586.jpg

    • Like 4
  12. 5 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

    run a 100cell or no cat, also do you have a trace of your timing map vs. boost vs. rpm?

    appears you're running very lazy timing and/or you've reach the potential of your stock manifold... FWIW.. all I did was move my external gate from the turbo's rear housing on to the manifold and instantly picked up nearly 40kW (same turbo ish.. same compressor wheel, just different bearing setup and different rear housing) and everything stopped glowing.

    OR

    like many would say E85.

    Need the 200 cell cat to meet german regulations.

    Can't afford to get caught without a cat, because all hell will break lose if they get you.

     

    Power FC and Link were tuned by a separate person, who both tried to get the temperatures down putting in more timing, which helps to a degree but it's still far off.

    Link tuner says he's had several cars with Garret turbos on the OEM manifold reaching ~500 BHP with 900-950°C.

    Can't use E85 because you german government changed taxes since the beginning of 2016 and almost no gas stations offer it anymore.

  13. On 8.1.2016 at 6:53 PM, MotHot said:

    So what kind of EGT are you guys getting on your EFRs?

     

    Trying to find out what would be acceptable in the long run.

    But so far no "precise" values to be found?

     

    Reason I'm asking is, my PTP turbo blanket is pretty much done after only ~5000km (may be ~100km on track/hard driving).

    On 9.1.2016 at 3:02 AM, Full-Race Geoff said:

    maximum EGT should not ever exceed 950C / 1742F on an EFR turbo

    Anyone using a 7064 on a RB25DET (Neo) with stock exhaust manifold?

     

    Still struggling very much with the EGT on mine.

    I get well over 1000°C after a very short amount of WOT (like one 4th gear pull), at which point I'm quickly backing off.

    Spec list:

    RB25DET Neo (OEM pistons, Eagle rods, ARP head studs, Cosworth metal head gasket)
    Borg Warner EFR 7064 T3 IWG
    OEM exhaust manifold
    (noname) big FMIC 
    Apexi air intake
    R35 GTR OEM injectors (570cc)
    Splitfire coils
    Walbro fuel pump
    Tomei Poncams Type B (260° In/Ex, 9,15 Lift In/Ex)
    Z32 AFM
    custom downpipe
    (ebay) 200 cell metal catalyst
    Blitz Nur Spec R
    Apexi EGT gauge
    Apexi Power FC
    

     

    Since installing the EGT gauge early this year, the following has been changed, currently to no success:

    LS2 coils

    200 cell metal catalyst from a german company called HJS, who offer very high quality products

    custom 76mm catback

    Link G4+ with MAP sensor

     

    Will spend another half day tomorrow to figure out what is going on...

×
×
  • Create New...