grigor

These bearings are available from decent bearing suppliers. You will need to take your old bearing in to compare as the listing isn't correct. They list the R34 GTT as the same bearing as an S13. I note the bearing in your photo doesn't have the handbrake anchor cast onto the bearing housing. The aftermarket S13 bearings I bought came with the that anchor, but it isn't required as the S13 doesn't have a drum style handbrake. You may find that you can still use the bearing even though it has the handbrake anchor, worked fine in the S13. Cost $90 per side. The only bearing I'm having difficulty sourcing is the R32 GTR, but I'm not giving up.

That's correct, down where all the hot stuff is.

Looks like for the factory boost solenoid. Zoom your picture out so we can see if the factory solenoid has been replaced with an aftermarket item, or perhaps it's running a bleed valve system??

I was quoted $1050 ex Japan, so approx $1100 and 3-4 weeks to deliver. Bubble doesn't look so bad now does it.

It's located in a GTR. You'll have a bit of trouble finding one in a 33 GTSt.

Happens more often than you'd think, mostly on machinery that has a rough ride. Trucks, earthmovers, tractors etc. The connections from the posts to each cell deteriorates and eventually you get a weak link just waiting for you to hit the starter. Big amps and a spark in an atmosphere with hydrogen makes short work of the battery case. Lucky it was just a single battery. Bigger machines have 24V with 4X6V batteries side by side, so when 1-blows it usually takes all the others with it. Lots of acid..........................................

Vacuum cleaner too. I have these buggers constantly. They weld the doors closed with mud nests along the sill rubbers. Wrap your engine up in oily rags, lots of them. The hornets will go find something else to build in.

Anyone got a photo of their parcel shelf stop light. (R32 GTR) Only recently realised I don't have one. RWC, rego'd all no worries without it.

Chime box, R32 GTR dash. Don't join any wires, just remove it wires and all.

Here's a few suggestions. First throw your Ezi-outs in the bin. They cause more grief than they're worth. In future buy a decent stud removing toolkit or pay someone. Next you have to be dead sure that your broken Ezi-out was drilled true to the stud, not half in the stud and half through the head. Now MIG a suitable sized plain washer over the broken stud. You'll be able to get a few good hits using a MIG. Then MIG a nut to that washer. Now you're ready to unscrew. The heat from the welding will loosen the most stubborn stud, but if the washer/nut snaps off, just do it all again. Admittedly that stud will be an absolute bastard to get at, but the manifold gasket will blow without all the studs installed.

She's been on Carsales for months, but I guess as the departure date nears.......... If not for the shaved boot and horrible bonnet, I'd be there. Sad situation to be in.

Yep, same same. That was just my system back in the day. I kept all my old bits for future comparisons.

From any bearing supplier: Idler NSK 56TB 2801 B01 ENSL 309 Tensioner NSK 60TB 0683 EA7L 806

Unfortunately it seems some damage is going to happen, you have to prepare for it. If you live on the highway as I do, you'll see thousands of car movements via transporters every day, they're not all going to arrive in good condition. Transporters prefer Falcons, Dunnydoors, Tojo's, 4x's etc, with moderate door lengths (easy to squeeze in) and nice high suspension to drive up and down the humps and ramps. Give them a low sports coupe and it's going to get damaged OR It will get pride of place on top of the prime mover, lifted up there by the forklift. If I'm moving a vehicle within the state, I now use our local tilt tray operator, a small 1-man operation. For anything else................lots of insurance I guess.

Yes. Anyone with a re-powered S13 has to go this route and it's a root. My Rb20/S13 Rustia had 2-12" thermos (pulling) and the factory R32 aircon fan in the front (pushing) The twin thermos were wired series/parallel with low heat switching from a sensor in with the coilpacks and high heat switching from the R32 radiator bottom tank.(standard Tridon switch) Activating the aircon switched on the R32 pusher. The twins also were on an adjustable timer for cool down. The cool down timer killed the tiny S13 battery in nothing flat, so it was removed. The alternator couldn't keep up with the huge draw, especially at night in the rain, so the R32 pusher was disconnected. Car ran so cold, the fans never ran on high speed anyway. BUT what a mess. The factory engine driven fan is by far the best way, just isn't an option in the limited space.

Humidity does have an effect on any engine. Those water parrticles are taking up space, oxygen space. The greater the humidity, the less air your engine has to breathe. Why do you think a dyno needs input from humidty, inlet air temp, etc etc? It's all compensated for in the dyno's computer package. Give Trent or someone who does a lot of tuning a PM.

Presume you've used the Rb20 engine harness so you'll have some plugs at the ecu which would normally connect to the R32 dash harness. Find this plug (attached) and connect to the S13 dash temp. gauge wire, after you've swapped the Rb temp sensor. I suggest you use John's excellent instructions, we've all been there.

My heap was transported by Coastline but as I live out in the sticks, there were a couple of other freight companies involved by the time it arrived on my door. But I've read of much, much worse stories so I reckon I got off pretty well. Really nice race/rally cars flogged to death, not by the transport truckies but the depot guys joyriding once the vehicle arrived. The only "winner" was one owner who had full datalogging. He was able to prove date/time/RPM's the whole bit, all while the car was supposedly in transit.

You wouldn't be silly enough to replace the hose without first getting some heat shields on the turbo and that dump would you???? And switching on the compressor, not too smart. It will try to ingest the remains of your hose and assorted crap. Aircon internals must be surgically clean.

I think the Toyota engine is superior to the Nissan. But you're doing a conversion so there's a lot more to look into than simply engine selection. Before you make any decisions, have a close look at any 1 or 2JZ's installed in a Skyline or Silvia. The exhaust manifold is on the opposite side to Nissan, so your brake and clutch master cylinders cop a lot of heat, especially as you've mentioned track/drift? Exhaust will be dropping down in a very crowded area for any RHD vehicle. You'll be paying someone for this work and it's obvious, the Nissan engine is the easiest (cheap/reliable) option.

Like this?

Yep. When my Rustia came from SA to QLD, they couldn't figure out the electric windows. Did the whole rainy trip with windows down and judging by the soot inside, it must have been beside the exhaust too. As you have to depress the brake and engage Park to remove the key, that was waaaaaaaaaaaay to hard. Easier to snap it off. Just like the aerial that spent a week trying to go up and up and up and up........

Those salty roads are the pits. Talking on Nissan 4x4 forum to a guy in Ireland who bought a low mileage 2nd hand Patrol but she's got an engine oil leak. Turned out the sump has rusted through. Piece of foam material between bellhousing and sump had absorbed the brine and rusted right through the sump. Wondering about the rest of the underbody?

The O.P. has a 32 not a 33. 33's with an aftermarket steering wheel/boss can give problems after about 30 mins of straight highway driving due to poor workmanship in the boss. 32's don't get the HICAS signal from the boss, but down on the pinion shaft on the rack. I'd try for a wheel alignment first, someone may have altered your steering wheel's central position instead of centralising the tie rod ends.

There are 24 teeth on the crank gear, 48 on each cam wheel. You can do the maths from there. Since the O.P. didn't note if the engine was at TDC in those photos, we don't know if the exhaust wheel was advanced or the inlet retarded. All that could be deduced was that there was a cam timing fault.