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Everything posted by Tenny

  1. Unfortunately the goings on have been very slow. Progress has stalled for the last 6 months nearly waiting for a body shop to commit to the job. Finally got a shop organised but it has been on their rack for over a month now. Times are busy and funds are low so not too stressed but it's not fun. In other news I purchased another rb25 swapped 32 which I'm going to be fixing up and flipping to use the profit on the gtr.
  2. I have a set of Nismo skirts as well...but from my quick look it seems the holes in the chassis are different between the standard and nismo bodies? Just didn't seem to line up at all for me.
  3. So I bought another 32 GTR. Woops. Just need a few things off it then will be for sale.
  4. Stock bottom end direct from what seems to be a relatively low km 32 that had stock turbos etc. No cracks around the head studs or common spot near oil feed. Still has the stock headgasket. Unfortunately it spun no 1 rod bearing and looks like two was starting as well. Hopefully comes out with a linish, however will see. it may need a grind. Head has been ported both intake and exhaust, has been machined for high lift cams and is cut for 0.5mm oversized valves, along with bronze guides etc. Unfortunately, similar issue to the bottom end and both E1 and I1 cam journals have suffered poor oil supply and started to melt the alloy. It was cheap enough that even getting it repaired i'll be ahead of what a stock one costs these days. Currently trying to find a shop that is confident and has tunnel bored DOHC heads before that can get this one spick and span. Is anyone familiar with the process and can give me a run down on it?
  5. Picked up both a 26 bottom end and a head in the last fortnight. Both need work but will still work out heaps cheaper than buying a together motor. Going to need a gearbox soon!
  6. Next step is to chuck the subframes back in to make the shell roll again, then off to a big repair shop to go on the car-oliner and get some things checked. There is a very slight kink where it looks like one of the rear tow hooks was bumped and or reversed into something. Also there is a dint in the sill from god knows what that needs to be pulled back down. The painter is going to tackle the rest of the body work and straighten the lower rad support bar which you can see has a few dints in it.
  7. Monday morning. Day of truth. Small repair done in japan. Thankfully painter is happy with how the repair was done and says it was completed correctly.
  8. Been a hot minute since I've updated the thread, or done a whole lot on the GTR truth be told, however some pretty big progress was made over the weekend. Got a few mates over to do some final preperations before blasting.
  9. Yeah, I work in the Healthcare industry so it's definitely getting interesting. I imagine I will begin working from home sometime soon. I feel pretty lucky I have a Gov job so work is not an issue for me, however $$ is still tight with a mortgage, car loan, bills etc so GTR progress is going to be slow. I have the complete exterior now, so just prepping the shell for blasting and primer which is the next step. Then it will probably sit in that stage for a year while I slowly build a motor haha. Definitely need some extra curricular activities to generate some side cash for the build. Just not sure what to do yet.
  10. You can get pullers that you spot weld on then pull down on but not sure if they would have enough leverage. Slide hammer you might need to drill a hole in the metal. Not too familiar with the methods sorry.
  11. You would probably be better off using a slide hammer and pulling the dint out. Most people do that, unfortunately mine were too far gone.
  12. Stumbled across a pair of genuine NISMO N1 rear pods...from the 3 piece set. I'm assuming there was only ever 560 sets of these skirts made for the Nismo GTR's, can anyone confirm this? I have confirmed that it is possible to cut down the length of the stock middle section of the factory skirts to fit the nismo rear pods, and the front pod is the same regardless, so I should be able to piece together the 3 piece skirts fairly easily. This is a score and a half
  13. Back home now ready to get into stripping the bay etc for blasting. The 33 is also my new drift car in the build. barra swap in progress but you know how it is with money.
  14. Quite happy with the new state of the rails, however they obviously arent absolutely perfect. I think you'd be hard pressed to find a 32 that does these days. I also managed to swap the front end out of the gtst (rack, xmember, etc) for a GTR front reo that is pretty much perfect condition. Got my eye on a few air compressors at the moment which i will eventually use for my home sand blast / powdercoating setup.
  15. Thankfully GTST's share the same rail sections and the red ones were in pretty good shape comparatively. Rather than scrap the shell and waste good body sections we cut the rails out to use to repair the GTR. Everything has been taken back to bare metal with the replacement sections stitched in. Rust kill was extensively used and then primer sprayed on to combat rust for the time being. As the shell will be going on a rotiserrie in the near future for blasting, the whole underside will be back to bare metal, cleaned up more, treated and then coated in a deadener / liner.
  16. Been quite busy the last few months getting situated after purchasing my first home, so progress on the GTR has been slow. With that being said, I dropped both 32s off to a fab shop to get some work done on the chassis rails of the GTR. Is painful to post these photos but the work needed to be done! Unfortunately the gtr rails had the usual careless jacking damage etc that is common on 32s. Photo dump below.
  17. Could go for an R32 GTR brochure. Do you also happen to have an R32 GTR passenger fender?
  18. Prices definitely seem a bit high considering they are USD. 1: I wouldn't run the "billet intake" on an rb26. Absolutely no benefit over stock and will lose throttle response going from ITB's to a single TB. If anything I would go a plazmaman front half plenum which bolts up to the ITB's. More expensive, but do it properly or stay stock (which is still plenty good enough) 2: Docrace mani = expensive? 6Boost split pulse with twin or single gate is about $1300 AUD. = $900 USD? and likely better quality. 3: Haltech also seems very expensive. Not 100% up to date on their pricing but 2.2k USD seems high. Have you spoken to who is going to tune your car and what they prefer as ECU? There is other options which are also very good and not that expensive. Link, ECUmaster etc Finally, have you considered buying a "rebuild kit" from a place like spool imports? Well proven over 1000hp atw and decent prices for pretty well the whole bottom end including bearings etc. Hit up a place like "Golebys Parts" who are a dealer for Spool who can customise the kit to include whatever you need. Eg replace cometic HG with a Nitto / Tomei etc which would be recommended. They also do stroker kits etc. Take a look at these links - https://www.spoolimports.com/spool-products/spool-engine-rebuild-kits/nissan/rb26dett-rebuild-kits https://www.spoolimports.com/spool-products/spool-stroker-kits/nissan/nissan-rb28 https://www.golebysparts.com.au/collections/6boost-turbo-manifolds/products/nissan-skyline-rb26-6boost-turbo-manifold?variant=15659818582125 https://www.golebysparts.com.au/collections/haltech-plugnplay-ecu-kits/products/haltech-ht-151357-elite-2500-plugnplay-adaptor-harness-ecu-kit-nissan-skyline-r32-33-gts-t-gt-r-r34-gt-r
  19. hey all, just about ready to send the car off to blasting / primer etc but I need a passenger front guard to complete the body panel puzzle. If anyone has one that would be fantastic thanks!
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