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burn4005 last won the day on December 15 2018

burn4005 had the most liked content!

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About burn4005

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    Rank: RB25DE

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    R34 GTR

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  1. Mines been running for two years on e85, 400kw for one year 500kw for another. Microglass type Fuel filter gets a clean every now and again but that's it. Vp M2 in every tank. I check the log every now and again, fuel pressure is fine and egts are consistent accross all 6 cyl, no knock. Kv8 has every protection function active plus some extra. It gets a tank of 98 every now and again if I'm going for a long drive, maybe that helps
  2. Lol Use decent fuel pumps with VP M2 to keep them lubricated if they're gear, georotor or screw types. Use stainless injectors and appropriate fuel hose. DO everything else the same as petrol and sleep soundly without worrying about a water injection system failing and blowing the engine.
  3. Penrite 10 Tenths. in a ~580kw rb26 over here. have never destroyed an engine with it so it's adequate and cheap enough with supercheap/repco sales. people over think oil. its not a le mans 24hr car. you can either buy cheap stuff and change it all the time or expensive stuff and change it less. E85 dilution means you'll need to change if often anyway so no need to get the gold plated stuff. and if your oil isn't seeing 120+ degrees you wont reap the benefits of serious synthetics anyway.
  4. heres a run of mine during the tuning process for comparisons sake: we didn't have the pump PWM speed control map set up correctly for a flat fuel pressure, and base pressure was a bit low. closed loop fuel was bang on the lambda target regardless (+4.5% fuel enrichment and -3.5% closed loop lambda enrichment. this run was at E75, but in my tune anything over E70 is full boost, full timing. I've been trying to get emtron to fix the fuel rate calculation speed as it's quite a useful runtime for fuel demand, but for some reason its refreshing very slowly in the log.
  5. Interesting. I was at 76.5% duty on same injectors on e85 at 285kpa on an 8374 1.05. That was a 491awkw run on a 2.62l lambda of 0.8 though.
  6. Right, So surely someone on the planet other than that evo from early last year has an 8474 on an engine by now. anyone heard anything/results?
  7. Nope. 9280 will do 110lb/min all in and its as big as they get. If you're staying with efrs you're going twins. And it's probably a better idea anyway.
  8. I can recommend JHHs 1000hp ati balancer with integrated trigger wheel. they have a motec 36-2 wheel welded on the back of them along with a hall effect sensor and bracket. very impressed with mine and a lot less f**king around than some other alternatives that require timing gear replacement and oil pump cutting. timing is now rock solid, it was abysmal with the cam trigger setup under heavy loads. let me get a good 3 degrees more timing into it at high loads (~30psi) which is LOTS of free power.
  9. it looks like they may be evaluating options or doing mockup/fitment. but surely dual 7670s aren't going to make the quoted 1600hp so maybe not. and its footage of two different engines, as the Agera RS and one:1 engines definately had precision snails on them. here are a couple of screen grabs for the Jesko video... EFR is on one side of the motor, precision is on the other? (ps that finish on the investment cast efr turbine housing is NICE.. like the early ones before they changed to a cheaper sand casting method)
  10. I'm making 500awkw on e85. stock fuel lines, stock nissan fuel filter, stock rail, tomei type-L and bosch 1650s. single in-tank pierburg L3LM @ 17.5v (boost-a-pump), range rover PWM pump controller and an aftermarket fuel hat. holley hydromat on tank floor. very efficient pump at high pressures. can only just hear it prime before starting the car. once engine running its effectively silent. not sure on pressure drop but don't care either. ECU uses injector delta pressure in model.
  11. this is one of the dumbest f**king things I've ever read. the only thing that might make sense here is you are actually Japanese and are running all your answers through google translate into english. the reason you are being attacked is you have been unable to convey any coherent concept whatsoever but are still somehow attempting to claim the intellectual high ground here.
  12. holy f**k Slap you did not take my advice. the knock sensor is a microphone. it generates an AC wave. that is the sound of the motor. taller wave = louder. spacing of the waves = frequency. its not a DC voltage. a sound wave can have many many many frequencies. it is continuous, not discreet. you only care about noises in the frequency range the engine vibrates at when it knocks. a decent ecu will filter that noise to a particular "band" of frequencies (say 6-7khz). the peak Amplitude of that signal is your knock level. it can be in volts, it can be in ADC counts. if your engine is not knocking it will be quiet in this range. LOW VOLTAGE. if it IS knocking it will be loud in this range HIGH VOLTAGE. a shit ecu will not filter the frequency, which is ok if your sensor is resonant to your engine knock frequency. but for a wideband sensor. the voltage you are reading will be the PEAK voltage seen by the ecu, and probably have a peak/hold circuit that gets reset after a delay. now for this to be useful, you need to know: is your sensor wideband or resonant? does your ecu do bandpass filtering on that signal? the voltage you are looking at is an indicator of the VOLUME of the noise the knock sensor (microphone) is picking up. that is NOT usefull if you have the following: wideband sensor with no bandpass filter (this will be all the engine noise) this IS useful under the following: wideband sensor with bandpass (this is knock frequency only) resonant sensor with or without bandpass (if sensor is resonant to the frequency your engine knocks at) if you want to know how LOUD the signal is, you can use a peak/hold multimeter. this will just tell you maximum volume, it could be at 100hz or 15khz. it won't tell you about knock. if you want to know what FREQUENCY the knock is occuring at you will need a scope. you need both the frequency and amplitude of the signal to work out if its actually likely to be knock or just loud noises at frequencies you don't care about. to understand what is happening you really need to plug the knock sensor into a usb soundcard and use some spectrogram/ real time fourier (frequency) graph software. something like this: https://digh.com/product/deka/ some free software I use is this which works great. http://www.sdradio.eu/weaksignals/spectran.html
  13. Slap, type less statements ask more questions. I have a Billy Madison quote here but I'll just say I award you no points, and may God have mercy on your soul.
  14. Geoff I'm curious about how the 8474 is being marketed by Borg warner against the 9174. Or is is replacing it in the lineup going forward?
  15. Swap to some Denso IK01-24 or NGK R7434-8 plugs and you won't look back. oh wait, are you still talking evo or RB?
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