iTzTMG
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Posts posted by iTzTMG
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10 hours ago, sneakey pete said:
ID1000's will not outflow a single -6 line, though i presume with Nitros you'll be upgrading injectors?
-6 can feed my 1300cc's with no issues.
Thanks, for now I will be using the ID1000's as I already have them but if I eventually run out of injector I can easily upgrade them, the fuel lines I'd like to do once.
I don't see myself needing bigger injectors than 1300's in the future so good to know -6 at the rail will be fine.The nitrous kit is a wet system so the extra fuel will come through the solenoid so upgrading injectors will not be needed because of nitrous.
8 hours ago, burn4005 said:man im running 500awkw of e85 through stock 5/16" line so anything better than that will be fine.
Thanks, good to know!
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Hey guys,
I'm slowly piecing together my build and I'm in need of some advice on fuel lines for my build and hope some of you could chime in.
Parts I already have:
- Dual Walbro 460's (intank)
- Twin entry, center return fuel rail with AN6 fittings
- Fuel Lab fuel pressure regulator with AN6 fittings
- ID1000 injectors
- Fuel used will be 98 pump gas
I am looking at buying a billet fuel hat and have a few options for the feed and return fittings, either: single AN6/AN8/AN10 feed, dual AN6/AN8 feed and single AN6/AN8 return.
So my questions:
- As my FPR and fuel rail are fitted with AN6 fittings will it be okay to run dual AN6 lines from the fuel hat to the rail and a single AN6 return? Will this be enough to support @800hp without too much pressure drop?
- Would it be better to run a single AN8 or AN10 feed line to the front and have a Y split to dual AN6 lines to the rail and AN6 return?
- How do you guys rate the Raceworks hoses and fittings? Any good?
*The car will be used as a street/drag car, forged RB25DET, it will run a 6466, nitrous (wet), manual and whatever boost is needed to run at least 10's -
12 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
You'd probably be hard pressed to see the difference between them even on a dyno. The Kelfords are ever so slightly better for the street, the Camtech possibly ever so slightly better for drag.
12 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:I personally would go for the Kelford, has more lIft.
Thanks guys.
9 hours ago, Figjam Jimmus said:Do these cams work with the Nissan VCT? Or, are you not running the VCT? Do either cam need head clearance work done?
Yes, they are VCT compatible, I will be running VCT on my build. These are "drop in" cams, so no head clearance required.
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Hey guys,
I'm looking for some advice/recommendation on cams for my RB25DET build.
The car will be used as a street/drag car and the goal is to be running in the 10's.Currently I have Tomei Poncams from my previous setup but looking to upgrade to some bigger cams for a stronger mid to top end.
I contacted both Camtech and Kelford and was recommended the following:
Camtech: 272/272 9mm lift
Kelford: 262/272 9.30/9.35mm liftAnyone have any experience with one or the other or any advice on which of these cams would be the best option in my case.
The specs of the engine will be:
87mm bore
CP pistons 9.0:1 pistons
Upgraded piston pins
Spool H beam rods
Supertech +1mm valves
Supertech bronze valve guides
Supertech valve springs
Ported cylinder head
ID1000 injectors
CRG twinscroll exhaust manifold
Precision 6466 turbo
Dual TIAL 44mm wastegates
FFP intake manifold
Haltech Platinum pro ECU
Tomei adjustable cam gear (exhaust only)
Small shot of nitrous
Water/Meth injection
Will keep VCT
Will keep hydraulic lifters
Will be running on 98 and 102 pump gas.
Manual gearbox -
You're welcome mate.
Taking the cluster out is not too bad, the soldering part does require some skill but it won't do any harm if you leave it as is. -
It's a fairly common issue with the R33 cluster. There's a guide on the UK forum on how to fix this:
https://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/151359-crazy-rev-counter-fixed-guide.html
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Lots of information regarding the Yaris coil install can be found in this thread:
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Last weekend was the last race weekend of our drag race season and as usual I participated.
The first day I managed to do 4 runs which were all in the 13.2 - 13.5 region, on the second day I only managed to do 1 run as the track was closed due to the bad weather.The last day I ran 5 times of which the first run was quite bad as the track did not have any grip at all, it resulted in a lot of wheel spin and me failing to get it in second gear which resulted in a 14.5
The remaining runs all came as a surprise to me as I first ran a 12.97 then a 12.83 , 12.71 and finally ended with a best of 12.667 @ 173.8 km/h with a 1.956 60 footThe best 60 foot I managed to get that weekend was a 1.842
I’m quite happy that I managed to get my car into the 12’s on the stock turbo/ecu setup with a little help of a 40hp shot of nitrous.
Now to see what I can change for next year and in the meanwhile I will be slowly building the new engine.- 3
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The OEM gasket on my RB25DET was metal, the replacement I got in the OEM Nissan gasket kit was also metal.
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Get a Precision 6466 and Tomei Poncams.
I'm just saying that because that is what I will be using on mine but probably won't get around to fit anytime soon but it would be interesting what results that setup is capable of .
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R33 GTST s2
Stock turbo
Stock ECU
Full 3 inch exhaust
FMIC
35 shot nitrous
Boostcontroller set to 10 psi
MT ET Streets 255/50/16 -
Last weekend we had another dragrace event here in the Netherlands and I had another go at it.
The weekend started off quite badly with some ones party tent landing on a few cars, one of which was mine.
So I have some paint missing and a scratch from left to right on the windshield, besides that our own tent couldn’t handle the strong wind and collapsed after a few hours.Managed to get two runs in on Friday and the first run was a new PB for me, ran a 14.0 with a 2.1 60 ft.
Second run I managed to do a 13.5 with a 2.0 60ft and I was very happy with that as it is the first time I managed to get the car in the 13’s.Saturday started off with a lot of waiting for the track to be ready for qualifyingand when I finally got to run again I managed to run 2 more 13.5’s and a 13.199 @ 163 km/h with a 2.0 60 foot.
I was very happy with that as it was a whole second off from the times I was running at the event in May.I qualified 3th in my class and on Sunday we were supposed to run the finals but due to bad weather I only ran one race after which the event was stopped, as I won that race and qualified as number 3 I took home 3th place this time.
So overall it was a decent weekend, with me finally running in the 13’s.
This is on the stock engine, stock turbo, stock ecu and a 35 shot of nitrous from the Nitrous Express Proton kit.Some pictures taken at the event
Now let’s see if I can get it in the 12’s next time xD
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54 minutes ago, Boostman said:
Will this work with stock ECU?
Yes it will, I'm running them on the stock ECU at the moment.
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A short video edit I made
Looking to do more of these in the future, also with more racing footage.
For those interested, I really appreciate it if you like/follow/subscribe to my social media channels:
- Facebook : https://www.facebook.com/projectr334/
- Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/projectr334/
- Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCorkz2LhtK_N-LlNcGuU_Aw
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As I was afraid of, not much progress has been made on the build unfortunately.
I had to move out of the garage I was renting, travelling for work, girlfriend that wants to go on holidays so basically the build moves at a much slower pace for now.
The car however does drive and a few little things have been done to, like the NX Nitrous system is now fully setup and consists of the following:
- NX proton plus wet kit(running 35-50 shot).
- NX 10lb bottle with lightning valve
- NX bottle heater kit
- NX purge kit
I am still on the stock ECU and that seems to hold the car back quite a bit but I am going to hook up the Haltech and bring it in for a tune on the current setup before the end of July, so hopefully that will bring some improvement.
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So just a small update on the progress of my build:
Ordered a lot of small stuff like seals,gaskets, bolts, standard water pump, crank collar( thanks to KiwiRS4T) and N1 oil pump.
Decided to go with the N1 oil pump and will be getting billet gears for it, as I'm not planning to raise the rev limit too much I think it should be ok.Also picked up a bare block and a head 2 weeks ago, these will be used to build the new engine so I don't have to start taking my car apart just yet.
I am picking up another head this weekend tho, as the previous one has some damage to the squish pads of cyl 5.
First I was thinking to have the squish pads removed but as I already have pistons which are the OEM style it might be better to go with another head so it won't affect the compression etc.I did start on removing the bump in the exhaust ports of the damaged head, so I'll continue with that and might keep it as spare and do the same to the other head.
Also got the manifolds from CRG and Otaku Garage so I had to test fit them and take a few photos(not the best quality photos):
The block and head will be off to the machine shop soon so hopefully some more updates soon.
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13 hours ago, admS15 said:
Welcome. Looks like it's turned into a serious build. Nice collection of parts there. Should get you into the 11's easily
Thanks!! I sure hope so
11 hours ago, PranK said:This looks fantastic! Great build! I think it needs a build thread!
Thanks! I'll keep you guys updated on the progress of this.
2 hours ago, V28VX37 said:Great stuff, thanks for sharing!
Is there like a European Recruitment Drive for SAU on or something, lots of awesome overseas builds being posted at the moment?!
Thanks!
The Dutch and UK forums aren't as big and active as SAU, I've been reading on this forum for a couple of years now, so it was about time to share my project since I'm sure I'll be asking questions now and then.- 1
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And that's where I am at now, the start of Project R334....
Instead of going the hybrid turbo way I've decided to set my goal for next year at running 11's on the 1/4 mile, to reach that goal I've decided on the following setup:- CP pistons 87mm with upgraded piston pins
- Spool H beam rods with ARP bolts
- ACL race bearings
- ARP head studs
- Supertech +1mm valves(inconel ex, stainless in)
- Supertech valve springs + titanium retainers
- Supertech valve seals
- Bronze valve guides
- Spool head drain kit
- Tomei poncams
- NX nitrous system (wet)
- AEM water methanol injection
- Precision Gen 2 6466 turbo (T4, .84 AR, split pulse)
- Tial MVR 44 mm wastegates
- Haltech Platinum Pro ecu
- ID1000 injectors
- Deatschwerks 340 lph fuel pump
- Topmount manifold by CRG (T4, split pulse, dual wastegate)
- Front entry intake manifold
Manifold by CRG in progress
For now it's just a collection of parts laying around at home and a lot more parts are needed but the plan is to hopefully start putting it together soon. It would be nice to have it all finished up by the start of the next dragracing season(June next year) but we'll see.
We all know deadlines for these kind of projects are rarely met and I rather have if built right instead of finished fast.
For those on Facebook, I have a page where I'll be posting photos/videos of the project and events that I visit here in the Netherlands so if you're interested please like my page https://www.facebook.com/projectr334/ it'll be very much appreciated.
Of course progress will also be posted in this topic.- 3
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Like a lot of Skyline owners I like motorsports and my choice of motorsport is dragracing, as I grew up in Curacao(island in the Caribean) before moving to the Netherlands, I was raised in the dragracing scene as it is the most popular motorsport on the island.
So that is also the type of racing that I now use my Skyline for. My goal for this year with the current setup was to try and get the car in the 13's, unfortunately I haven't been able to do so and I end this season with a best of 14.2 on the 1/4 mile.I've been struggling with traction a lot and decided to get a set of Mickey Thompson ET streets on 16" R32 GTR wheels which I tested last weekend but this also did not help, only managed a 14.4 with a 2.260 60ft at the last event. It seems that the car is just not making the power it should(currently on stock ecu).
My original plans were to get a hybrid turbo, Haltech, some injectors and run that for a year and slowly upgrade the car but then I thought I should just spend the money once and go all the way.- 2
DIY: Converting your R34 Xenon Headlights to LHD
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
There used to be a requirement in NL on cars from 2006 onwards equipped with xenon although I think this has also been scrapped by now, but as the R34 is pre 2006 headlight washers are not needed in NL if you have xenon headlights.
Also interested to know the final measurements that you end up with to get the correct beam as I have a new set of headlights that I will need to convert to LHD.