Toff

Hi bud, Thats good to know/confirm. Been a while since i did it but would have put money on it being all good at the time when i had a measure up. As far as the subframe goes, its the stock ENR One, they have no HICAS so they're a preffered option over a GTT one with a lockoff kit no? Next port of call is fresh wheel bearings and a full fluid change. When i did do it initially i did use fairly thick diff oil as its all i had at the time. Will do a full change out and see how she goes. Maybe a new mapper is needed... Appreciate the help @GTSBoy and @dr phil Any pics of your setup phil?

Theyre different, GTTs have the light grey fabric while GTR has the darker fabric

@GTSBoy Thanks for the response mate. Thats good to know then, it was a small doubt in my mind and i knew it was a long shot, it would either fit and bolt up or it wouldn't was my initial thoughts but it has eaten away at me 😅 Different Dyno, However had a few cars on both dynos and results normally very similar, definitely not that far out anyway. And only after driving it for a while did i consider it not being an OEM Diff, the car was a boggo standard N/A ENR, 200hp car so i wouldnt have thought the japanese owner would have swapped the diff. It was thrown together to give some shakedowns, will be going over it and re-furbing the underside at some point while its still a rust free shell so will pull the diff etc. It doesnt make any noise mind, so be very surprised if its anything agressive but i have yet to see it spin 1 wheel, always locks up! And dont worry, it gets a thrashing. Went to the nurburgring and back and did me proud, its just not quick enough..... LOL Cheers

Hi all, Bit of an odd thread this and looking for some insight. I have a 98 ENR34 which I have converted to Turbo using a 98 GTT as it's donor. The engine was swapped onto the ENR34 AWD gearbox to work with the OEM ENR drivetrain. This has had the 3x2 rear shafts which are still fitted. What I did do, was swap the sandard Cast rear hubs (with the bush type strut fitting) For GTT alloy ones, and the 3x2 shafts went straight in. The ENR has an LSD of some sorts and i needed this to keep ratios correct. The car drives no real issue, however it seems a bit "Bindy" and its an absolute PIG to push around the garage. Other people have commented on this also. Zero issues with the rest of the car. The GTT made 540 Flywheel HP on 1.2bar, with a weak fuel pump. Tuner reckoned an easy 600+ at more boost. The ENR made like 430 on the same map, and with all the boost (1.8bar BW S364) etc thrown at it the car made 540..... Convinced something is amiss. I remember checking the shafts at the time and they looked the same (at least on the hub end) But it has me thinking now that the stub length can differ? Google also tells me this..... Can anyone confirm before I go ripping back into it? It's a good couple of years ago since I did it. And if they are indeed different, can the ends be swapped round easily enough between the 5x1 and 3x2 shafts? (Should have done it right the first time I know) Many thanks!

Hey mate, I Have stuck a thread on the Link forum and he has give me somewhere to look, Just thought i would check the wealth of info/persons on here to see if they have had the same issues with the enr34 wiring diagram. I have a feeling its something rather simple!

Hi all, Bit of a noob here and first post in a while so apologies for that!Bit of detail, I own a 1999 ENR34, Fitted with a Tuned NEO Turbo lump. The car is fitted with a Link G4+ Fury and after getting the car up and running in 2wd i decided it was time to sort the AWD. Purchased a Haltech TPS adaptor, and proceeded to wire it in using the NISSAN wiring diagram (Seems poor for the ENR). Stock ENR34 TPS.The 4wd light is still illuminated, and the car runs in 2wd. Pump works ok, Gets power, Primes up as normal etc. Been a while since i touched the car as life got in the way but i need to re-visit and sort it as its really annoying me it not working!I know the Atessa ECU needs to see a modified signal, which it receives from the adaptor.Worth noting, when the PC Program is running for the link, and full throttle is applied, the % throttle indicator on screen shows roughly 30% Throttle when the car is at full, and down from there to 0%. Would i be right in saying the ECU Is receiving the wrong signal somehow? Possibly while the Atessa ECU Is seeing the full signal? Has anyone had a similar issue with an ENR?Sorry for what probably seems a noob question, I am not the best with wiring and electronics, but know how to use a multimeter.... LolThanks all

@GTSBoy That's the diagram I was looking at, I was on the right track then! Thanks for your help, much appreciated. We got there in the end! Hopefully be useful to others in the future. Thanks Toff

@GTSBoy I had a look at page 19 of the workshop manual but not 100% on what i am looking at tbh! It clarified that the fuel pump control module and dropping resistor are not included on the DE motors, but as far as what voltage is actually supplied im still not sure. Could you tell me what voltage is received? As far as i can work out the lines that run back to the ECU plug are voltage supplied, so im guessing its just 14v or whatever is sent to the plug? Or am i way off the mark? Battery supplies plug with 14v or whatever and everything off that plug that takes a feed regulates itself with resistors and voltage droppers etc? Thanks

@GTSBoy Ahhhh the infamous GTSBoy smartass, super helpful comment, I love reading these when i browse the site. In response to that i am away with work so an ask on a forum is the next best thing isnt it? Because then i get helpful people like yourself answering for me. And @iruvyouskyrine @Kinkstaah I should have added, I swapped in a forged NEO with Borgwarner S362 and Link G4+ Fury etc etc etc so its no longer N/A. Swapped hubs etc also. So i need a constant supply. Last option is pull it all and rewire the lot but i dont think i require it. Walbro 460LPH And Bosch EV14 850CC Injectors Thanks for your help

Hi guys, Tried bumping an old thread on this subject a few days ago but no joy. Anyway, I have an ENR34 And i was intending on doing the GTT "Hard Wire" mod to get constant voltage on my fuel pump. However after a quick search i found that this is possibly not needed? The thread had one comment stating that they had the same plugs etc but no relay to adjust the voltage. Would this mean it recieves a constant voltage closer to 15v say, Or is it a lot lower? https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291561-r34-turbo-fuel-system-on-na-same-wiring-harness/ Have i got it back to front? Thanks!

Epic thread bump, Anyone know the ins and outs of the above comment? If it doesn't have the relay to adjust pump voltage does this mean the static pump pressure is higher or lower? I'm guessing lower but if so what voltage is that? Thanks!

*SEMI THREAD HIJACK* Basically the same question I need to ask so thought I would to this! R34 ECU Plugs are the same? Im fitting a series 1 NEO GTT lump into an ENR, So that's that end covered if they are the same. My final question then, with the ECU plug being the same, The basic sensors in the engine bay such as TPS, Coilpack harness, Fuel injector harness are the same. The sensors that I know are slightly different plugs but have the same amount of wires, can the plugs just be swapped to suit? If the ECU plug end is the same surely the wires are going to the same pins Albeit a slightly different connector? Please note I have added any of the missing bracing from the GTT, And a full weld in cage to suit, Car also has a hybrid GTR/GTT Setup with brembos and suspension etc etc.... Thanks!

I thought R34 GT Fours had the 4.3 final drive? 4.1111 R34 RB25DET manual/auto 4.083 R34 RB25DE auto 4.363 R34 RB25DE manual Wheel widths shouldnt make a difference but i would be worried if the profile is taller/smaller as said above.

Don't mean to thread hijack but what would a well setup neo head with cams, Springs, retainers and correct shimming happyily rev to? Would 8500 be a big ask?

Believe they are the same ones spool sells?