Toff

Members
  • Content Count

    29
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About Toff

  • Rank
    Rank: RB20DE

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    UK

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    R34 GTT
  • Real Name
    Chris
  1. Toff

    @GTSBoy I had a look at page 19 of the workshop manual but not 100% on what i am looking at tbh! It clarified that the fuel pump control module and dropping resistor are not included on the DE motors, but as far as what voltage is actually supplied im still not sure. Could you tell me what voltage is received? As far as i can work out the lines that run back to the ECU plug are voltage supplied, so im guessing its just 14v or whatever is sent to the plug? Or am i way off the mark? Battery supplies plug with 14v or whatever and everything off that plug that takes a feed regulates itself with resistors and voltage droppers etc? Thanks
  2. Toff

    @GTSBoy Ahhhh the infamous GTSBoy smartass, super helpful comment, I love reading these when i browse the site. In response to that i am away with work so an ask on a forum is the next best thing isnt it? Because then i get helpful people like yourself answering for me. And @iruvyouskyrine @Kinkstaah I should have added, I swapped in a forged NEO with Borgwarner S362 and Link G4+ Fury etc etc etc so its no longer N/A. Swapped hubs etc also. So i need a constant supply. Last option is pull it all and rewire the lot but i dont think i require it. Walbro 460LPH And Bosch EV14 850CC Injectors Thanks for your help
  3. Hi guys, Tried bumping an old thread on this subject a few days ago but no joy. Anyway, I have an ENR34 And i was intending on doing the GTT "Hard Wire" mod to get constant voltage on my fuel pump. However after a quick search i found that this is possibly not needed? The thread had one comment stating that they had the same plugs etc but no relay to adjust the voltage. Would this mean it recieves a constant voltage closer to 15v say, Or is it a lot lower? https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291561-r34-turbo-fuel-system-on-na-same-wiring-harness/ Have i got it back to front? Thanks!
  4. Epic thread bump, Anyone know the ins and outs of the above comment? If it doesn't have the relay to adjust pump voltage does this mean the static pump pressure is higher or lower? I'm guessing lower but if so what voltage is that? Thanks!
  5. *SEMI THREAD HIJACK* Basically the same question I need to ask so thought I would to this! R34 ECU Plugs are the same? Im fitting a series 1 NEO GTT lump into an ENR, So that's that end covered if they are the same. My final question then, with the ECU plug being the same, The basic sensors in the engine bay such as TPS, Coilpack harness, Fuel injector harness are the same. The sensors that I know are slightly different plugs but have the same amount of wires, can the plugs just be swapped to suit? If the ECU plug end is the same surely the wires are going to the same pins Albeit a slightly different connector? Please note I have added any of the missing bracing from the GTT, And a full weld in cage to suit, Car also has a hybrid GTR/GTT Setup with brembos and suspension etc etc.... Thanks!
  6. I thought R34 GT Fours had the 4.3 final drive? 4.1111 R34 RB25DET manual/auto 4.083 R34 RB25DE auto 4.363 R34 RB25DE manual Wheel widths shouldnt make a difference but i would be worried if the profile is taller/smaller as said above.
  7. Don't mean to thread hijack but what would a well setup neo head with cams, Springs, retainers and correct shimming happyily rev to? Would 8500 be a big ask?
  8. Believe they are the same ones spool sells?
  9. Can I ask where from? And are you leaving the buckets stock?
  10. Toff

    Think its just a coincidence to be honest. The cracked bucket does worry me though as the next engine will be a NEO. Want to fit new springs and retainers but cant see uprated buckets anywhere. Or info on converting to shim under bucket.
  11. Toff

    No external cooler etc was added, All stock on that side. After initial turbo failure i flushed the car on tickover with a 5w30 semi 3 times to try clear any shite left over from the bearing on the turbo. Was told this was too thin and could cause damage but surely this is bullshit when running it on tickover?
  12. Hi Guys, Throwing this on here to see what you think, Engine was bone stock with bolt ons. Car had covered approx 100,000 Miles, Mix of KMS and miles so no true idea. I ran round in the car stock for approx 10k miles my self and all was well, Super silent, Made good power, Burnt no oil etc After the car was rebuilt i fitted a new water pump, Single turbo kit and all other supporting mods Car was running fine, Sat at usual oil pressure on tickover (Just below middle on stock gauge) Has it mapped gradually for 1.2 Bar of boost on a HX35 12cm with no problems, Until my brand new turbo failed. Bearing collapse. Got a replacement sorted, And for piece of mind i flushed the oil with 4 lots of 5w-30 (Only on the 3rd oil change did i run the car gently round the block, the other times where purely tickover) Changed for a generic 5w-40 fully and carried on At this point the car developed a light tick, And using a stethoscope identified it was one of the exhaust lifters. Stupidly i ignored this and drove the car. Cue 50kms later and on hot tickover the oil light came on, As well as my gauge dropping to zero. Blipping the throttle and driving it the gauge read normal. Got home, Dropped the oil immediately to find a very fine metal content in the oil. f**k, Pulled off the rocker to find it had cracked a bucket, Shim rattling about hence the noise. Here are some photos anyway. Also as a result of the oil contamination, It has scored all the bearings in the bottom end (Driving the car obviuosly never helped) Now i have a few ideas, Oil pump failed which in turn killed the lifter, Small fragments then got chewed up and killed the bottom end. Other one is the lifter failed,, Killed the pump, Killed the bearings Third idea is turbo bearings killed the pump, killing the rest in turn. Or lastly the oil pressure problem was purely a dodgy sender and the rest of the problems came about due to the turbo? Would like to note there was no over revs, Missed gears or any particular hard use. Purely a few boost runs. Any input would be great! I Will also be building another engine out of a stock neo, So ideas on what to go for on a 600hp street car taking to regular track days would be nice, Idea at the moment is spool rebuild kit (Rods, pistons, bearings and headgasket. Along with arp bolts) Or do i throw a stroker in there? Surely its not needed? And another question, Are the 25NEO Buckets the same diameter as the 26 ones? Wouldnt mind converting to shim under bucket if possible... Again if its needed! Thanks!
  13. Right the top photo i found, A/C Compressor which i thought but i had routed the loom incorrectly, So thats that sorted This one is still pissing me off though...
  14. Bottom 3 photos are part of the loom the runs through the drivers wing, Back upto that brown module, And will only go in that corner it's a short loom. 2nd one is behind passenger front light
  15. Hi, On with refitting my engine and loom to my R34 which I stripped to a bare shell last year. Got it in and mostly wired up, Bit struggling on where these 2 go. People have any idea? Any help on these 2 would be appreciated, Went from a bare engine bay to this! Thanks